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American IPA "Northeast" style IPA

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VirginiaHops1

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Research shows that storage temp up to a point is more important then low do. I wouldnt say my beers are top tier but I do notice when the hops have had a considerably negative impact. I always brew 4 kegs at the same time for comparison experiments. They usually finish in about 2-3 weeks. I couldnt detect any difference with the keg that I had to open. I think there is a limit to how much DO liquid can uptake at a certain temp if you dont stir or splash it alot.
On the other hand, I had once a ball lock that was missing a rubber and when I transferred the beer to serving keg it was totally dead the next day.
The thing about the hop storage temp though is how often from harvest to hitting people's beer has the hops been sitting at room temps(or worse)? Probably alot unless you're picking them up from the hop supplier directly with a cooler. So I'm not sure how much damage having them in an O2 purged keg for a couple days is doing. I soak up as much research/anecdotal evidence/data as possible but at the end of the day my be all/end all is just testing it on my system and drinking the beer, which I why I've done various methods and continue to experiment. When someone has only done something one way but swears it's the optimal method I wonder how they've so confidently reached that conclusion.

Again, I'm not touting either method and at some point I'll probably decide what I like best. I haven't had a chance to do alot of side by side fermentations to test out variables because I switch my recipes up so much and never want to do the same one twice.
 

ChiknNutz

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Not the exact combo but Amarillo and mosaic are a match made in heaven man. They play great off each other. I do a 2:1 ratio of Amarillo to mosaic. Just depends how much galaxy you want in the beer? If you want it as the star even it with the Amarillo, if you want it just as support go 2:1:0.5 Amarillo, mosaic, galaxy.
I recently went a little nuts and bought a bunch of different hops so I have a good bit of choice.

Amarillo, Cascade, Citra, Galaxy, Hallartau Blanc, Mosaic, Magnum and Warrior.

So far I've only brewed one NEIPA and used Citra/Mosaic/Galaxy (3/2/1). I did this amount in both Whirlpool and one DH addition. It turned out great. I plan to do another one and just want to try a slightly different hop profile, leaning more towards the "dank" side. Does this combo of Amarillo/Mosaic/Galaxy achieve that at all? If not, what might you suggest given the assortment I have? For bittering, I was planning on 1 oz. of Warrior for the entire boil.
 

beervoid

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The thing about the hop storage temp though is how often from harvest to hitting people's beer has the hops been sitting at room temps(or worse)? Probably alot unless you're picking them up from the hop supplier directly with a cooler. So I'm not sure how much damage having them in an O2 purged keg for a couple days is doing. I soak up as much research/anecdotal evidence/data as possible but at the end of the day my be all/end all is just testing it on my system and drinking the beer, which I why I've done various methods and continue to experiment. When someone has only done something one way but swears it's the optimal method I wonder how they've so confidently reached that conclusion.

Again, I'm not touting either method and at some point I'll probably decide what I like best. I haven't had a chance to do alot of side by side fermentations to test out variables because I switch my recipes up so much and never want to do the same one twice.
I meant the temp and DO of the beer not the hops.
Just saying, it's important to keep DO low but there is a line between keeping things simple and effective vs overdoing something.
Having said that I have never tried the method of using a purged keg filled with hops though. The problem I see is that it involves another transfer and 3rd purged keg to get the hops of the beer which again is an oxidation risk.
I will definately try this method in the future.
 

beervoid

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I recently went a little nuts and bought a bunch of different hops so I have a good bit of choice.

Amarillo, Cascade, Citra, Galaxy, Hallartau Blanc, Mosaic, Magnum and Warrior.

So far I've only brewed one NEIPA and used Citra/Mosaic/Galaxy (3/2/1). I did this amount in both Whirlpool and one DH addition. It turned out great. I plan to do another one and just want to try a slightly different hop profile, leaning more towards the "dank" side. Does this combo of Amarillo/Mosaic/Galaxy achieve that at all? If not, what might you suggest given the assortment I have? For bittering, I was planning on 1 oz. of Warrior for the entire boil.
1oz will give you a substantial bitter. Amarillo has been grassy floral for me. Never been a fan.
If you want dank go with a bit of columbus or strata.
 

JoeMamasIPA

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I meant the temp and DO of the beer not the hops.
Just saying, it's important to keep DO low but there is a line between keeping things simple and effective vs overdoing something.
Having said that I have never tried the method of using a purged keg filled with hops though. The problem I see is that it involves another transfer and 3rd purged keg to get the hops of the beer which again is an oxidation risk.
I will definately try this method in the future.
Others will probably chime in but I just leave the beer on the dryhops and serve from the fermentation purged DH keg. I don't get any grassy flavors doing this and using a CBDS with a screen to dispense the beer. I think the cold storage of the beer keeps the hops from getting nasty and imparting unwanted flavors.
 

HopsAreGood

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Others will probably chime in but I just leave the beer on the dryhops and serve from the fermentation purged DH keg. I don't get any grassy flavors doing this and using a CBDS with a screen to dispense the beer. I think the cold storage of the beer keeps the hops from getting nasty and imparting unwanted flavors.
I also keep the hops in the dry hop keg quite often, and serve from it as well. Sometimes I will transfer to a serving keg, but I too don’t get any horrible off flavors from leaving the hops in...especially when using cryo/Lupomax where some of the vegetative material has been removed.
 

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I'm brewing and Irish Red Ale today and this will be my first time using fermentation to purge my keg. With this recipe there is no DH. That aside, regarding neipas I'm not sure what is meant (bolded above) by a "semi purged DH keg." If semi purged is not totally purged what's the point of then transferring to a, I assume, fully purged serving keg?
ya semi purged isnt really fair. I’ll change it to what it is - “fermentation purged” which is probably just as good as “liquid pushed out by co2 purged”
 
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BongoYodeler

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Others will probably chime in but I just leave the beer on the dryhops and serve from the fermentation purged DH keg. I don't get any grassy flavors doing this and using a CBDS with a screen to dispense the beer. I think the cold storage of the beer keeps the hops from getting nasty and imparting unwanted flavors.
That's my plan too.
 

BeerFst

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I also keep the hops in the dry hop keg quite often, and serve from it as well. Sometimes I will transfer to a serving keg, but I too don’t get any horrible off flavors from leaving the hops in...especially when using cryo/Lupomax where some of the vegetative material has been removed.
all agreed, i do the same too.

the only time i got grassy was when the hops were old/crappy to begin with. MAAAAYYYYBBEEE limiting exposure time to 1 day might have helped reduce it, but the hops have been in the keg for weeks now and, if anything, the grassyness has subsided.
 

aaronm13

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To add to this, I typically hang the dry hops in a fine nylon bag. It makes the process clean and easy with very little if any hop particulate getting into the beer. I’ve also put the hops in the dry hop keg loose with a floating dip tube, so when you transfer to the serving keg you draw from the top. A good crash in the keg should settle the hops to the bottom the same way they would in a fermenter. Both ways work well but the loose dry hop makes me nervous about clogging a poppet if something goes wrong. With the bag it’s virtually impossible for this to happen.
D you find less hop utilization putting your dry hops in a bag? Might try this method but usually hop loose but getting so sick of clogs during transfer and massive volume losses. What's the most amount of hops you've put in a bag at once? I'm usually at 12-16oz dry hop split over two additions but not sure how I'd feel about going all in at once.
 

HopsAreGood

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D you find less hop utilization putting your dry hops in a bag? Might try this method but usually hop loose but getting so sick of clogs during transfer and massive volume losses. What's the most amount of hops you've put in a bag at once? I'm usually at 12-16oz dry hop split over two additions but not sure how I'd feel about going all in at once.
It’s hard to say really. I mean you’re definitely going to get “more” from the hops if you use them loose, but HOW MUCH more is debatable. I’ve hung different amounts from 4-16 ounces. I’ve had some of my most hoppy and punchiest batches ever doing it this way, so I don’t really worry about what I might be missing. Just make sure you use a pretty large bag...I use these:


You can also agitate/shake the keg if you want. I have done it both ways...with and without shaking and haven’t noticed much difference.
 

aaronm13

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It’s hard to say really. I mean you’re definitely going to get “more” from the hops if you use them loose, but HOW MUCH more is debatable. I’ve hung different amounts from 4-16 ounces. I’ve had some of my most hoppy and punchiest batches ever doing it this way, so I don’t really worry about what I might be missing. Just make sure you use a pretty large bag...I use these:


You can also agitate/shake the keg if you want. I have done it both ways...with and without shaking and haven’t noticed much difference.
Always wondered if the trade off going loose is worth it. Used to use those stainless hop spiders but found 3oz per tube was the max, anymore and there was dry pellets in the middle. If I got a big enough bag I could just dump them all in. Definitely worth an experiment

Do you weigh down the bag with marbles or something else?
 

ihavenonickname

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I highly recommend these filters from Janish/utah biodeisel. I've got 'em for 5 and 10g corneys - never have a clog dry hopping loose.

 

HopsAreGood

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Always wondered if the trade off going loose is worth it. Used to use those stainless hop spiders but found 3oz per tube was the max, anymore and there was dry pellets in the middle. If I got a big enough bag I could just dump them all in. Definitely worth an experiment

Do you weigh down the bag with marbles or something else?
That’s what I do. Just dump all of your hops into the bag. Hang it in the middle of the keg. Closed transfer into the keg. Simple. I have a bag hanging right now in a keg being purged with fermentation co2 with 3 oz Simcoe cryo and 3 oz Ekuanot cryo. (Equivalent to 12 oz.) I have hung up to 16 ounces of pellets as well though.

I don’t weigh the bag down at all. I tie unflavored/unwaxed dental floss around the drawstring, and then tie the dental floss around the keg handle. I then put a bunch of tape around the dental floss on the keg handle. I suspend the bag about halfway down the keg. Whenever I remove the bag of hops after the keg has kicked, it always appears as if it’s been wet the whole time.
 

aaronm13

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That’s what I do. Just dump all of your hops into the bag. Hang it in the middle of the keg. Closed transfer into the keg. Simple. I have a bag hanging right now in a keg being purged with fermentation co2 with 3 oz Simcoe cryo and 3 oz Ekuanot cryo. (Equivalent to 12 oz.) I have hung up to 16 ounces of pellets as well though.
I'll give this a shot so, terrible to see all that fermentation co2 go to waste. just need to figure out a way to get a line out of my fridge to the keg and be able to block it up when not in use. Do you leave the PRV on the dry hop keg open to let the co2 flow out or maybe even a spunding valve could be used?
 

HopsAreGood

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I highly recommend these filters from Janish/utah biodeisel. I've got 'em for 5 and 10g corneys - never have a clog dry hopping loose.

So you’ve dry hopped loose using the dip tube filter, and then transferred to a serving keg and had no issues? I might get one of these and try it out.

I’ve always wondered about any possible negative effects of the beer entering the keg through the mesh filter, and then also leaving the keg through the mesh filter. Possible oxygen pickup?
 

HopsAreGood

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I'll give this a shot so, terrible to see all that fermentation co2 go to waste. just need to figure out a way to get a line out of my fridge to the keg and be able to block it up when not in use. Do you leave the PRV on the dry hop keg open to let the co2 flow out or maybe even a spunding valve could be used?
Can you fit the keg in the fridge? I have pin lock kegs so no prv. I run the fermentation co2 into the dip tube, and then have a QD with some tubing attached to it that connects to the gas post. That runs down into a jug with star san. So the co2 enters the keg with the hops already suspended in the bag, and then exits the keg down into the jug of starsan. The liquid in the jug bubbles away just as a traditional airlock would.
 

aaronm13

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Can you fit the keg in the fridge? I have pin lock kegs so no prv. I run the fermentation co2 into the dip tube, and then have a QD with some tubing attached to it that connects to the gas post. That runs down into a jug with star san. So the co2 enters the keg with the hops already suspended in the bag, and then exits the keg down into the jug of starsan. The liquid in the jug bubbles away just as a traditional airlock would.
Can only fit one in my fridge at the moment, could take a Dremel to it and shave a bit off here and there to make it work like I did for my kegerator
 

beervoid

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Do you cut a piece of the end of the diptube as well?
You need a straight tube to use these if you’re cornys have the 45 at the bottom. You can buy a 21” Firestone style from aih . The ones with the bends have “ears” but the ones without fit just fine on an keg with ear holes.

due to the rounded bottom of the actual Cornelius kegs you still need to cut half inch or so off to get them to fit.

If you have a Firestone corny then none of the above matters as those have straight tubes and a flat bottom in the area it sits.

I have one with this filter and 2 cbds. I do think pulling thru the hop bed adds something to a beer vs pulled from the top. Also if you use leaf hops in a clear beer it helps filter it too
 

beervoid

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You need a straight tube to use these if you’re cornys have the 45 at the bottom. You can buy a 21” Firestone style from aih . The ones with the bends have “ears” but the ones without fit just fine on an keg with ear holes.

due to the rounded bottom of the actual Cornelius kegs you still need to cut half inch or so off to get them to fit.

If you have a Firestone corny then none of the above matters as those have straight tubes and a flat bottom in the area it sits.

I have one with this filter and 2 cbds. I do think pulling thru the hop bed adds something to a beer vs pulled from the top. Also if you use leaf hops in a clear beer it helps filter it too
How far is the diptube removed from the bottem for you? I have those filters myself and cut a little of the bottom of the diptube cause I thought if they go too low you might still suck some trub through the filter.
 

BeerFst

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How far is the diptube removed from the bottem for you? I have those filters myself and cut a little of the bottom of the diptube cause I thought if they go too low you might still suck some trub through the filter.
I cut a half inch and the filter/tube assy is still a tight fit in the keg. I could have gone higher but it works. If you draw a straight line down to the bottom curve from the outlet post that’s still a good inch or two above the bottom center. So still does a good job of leaving enough trub behind.
There is some yeast pickup to start but it’s pretty small and frankly I think it’s yeast coming up and over the plug on top. The plug fits nicely into the top of the filter but I have a little space between the tube and the hole in the plug. The filter sits a few inches below the lid so stands to reason some trub ends up in there even with ferm cap and 4-4.5 gallons in the keg.
 

nebulabrewing

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Had a successful brew day this weekend. First beer of 2021 with Bru-1, Azacca, and Sabro. Whirlpool had a lovely aroma. Slight deviation to my usual go-to grain bill. Mashed at 152.


69% Golden Promise
17% White wheat
12% Flaked oats
2% Acid malt

Hops
Bru-1
Azacca
Sabro

Yeast
3rd generation 1L LAiii starter - My most active fermentation to date with this yeast. Yeast all over the garage floor haha.

Water
126, 13, 16, 125, 193, 0

Excited for this hop combination.

420F4554-E89E-4211-8DDB-C89EE05E6129.jpeg
 

tomsen

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Whats the current standpoint on dry hopping method?
Start ferment - 2 days later, 1st dryhop - 1 week later cold crash then dryhop, 4 days later keg?

also I read about lowering the pH in the last minutes of the boil to around 4.9, this should help "conserve" the biomatrix, anyone has any info on that?


In before, I'm sorry if these questions get asked a lot but this thread has just too many replies to comb through
 

Camelot Legends

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I like my 1b method

1b. Build an airtight cabinet similar to a sand blasting cabinet big enough to fit your corny keg and a shelf on the side to put your ingredients. Purge the whole cabinet with co2. Open keg, dump ingredients and close keg with no exposure to oxygen.🤪
 

VirginiaHops1

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I'll give this a shot so, terrible to see all that fermentation co2 go to waste. just need to figure out a way to get a line out of my fridge to the keg and be able to block it up when not in use. Do you leave the PRV on the dry hop keg open to let the co2 flow out or maybe even a spunding valve could be used?
Another nice use of fermentation CO2 is purging your serving kegs. You can daisy chain as many together as you want. I remove the blow-off and cap with a spunding valve at the end to build up a little pressure in the kegs. My problem is I rarely seem to have an empty serving keg available to purge when a fermentation begins but I'm going to get a few more soon
 

ihavenonickname

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@HopsAreGood @beervoid
For the bent type of dip tube I straightened it out a bit by bending over my knee to better fit the filter, then I trimmed about 1cm off the bottom to better fit along the slopes bottom of the keg. I use a stopper I drilled out the middle so it fits more snuggly around the dip tube. So nothing gets in there. I’ve dry hopped up to 12 oz loose pellets and never clogged since using these. I also use a CBDS with a filter that usually works but everyone and then it still clogs on my for whatever reason.

@tomsen check out post #13665 just a page back. It seems most people like some method that drops out yeast before the DH.

I like my 1b method

1b. Build an airtight cabinet similar to a sand blasting cabinet big enough to fit your corny keg and a shelf on the side to put your ingredients. Purge the whole cabinet with co2. Open keg, dump ingredients and close keg with no exposure to oxygen.🤪
do you live inside the cabinet during active fermentation? Ha!
 

HopsAreGood

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@HopsAreGood @beervoid
For the bent type of dip tube I straightened it out a bit by bending over my knee to better fit the filter, then I trimmed about 1cm off the bottom to better fit along the slopes bottom of the keg. I use a stopper I drilled out the middle so it fits more snuggly around the dip tube. So nothing gets in there. I’ve dry hopped up to 12 oz loose pellets and never clogged since using these. I also use a CBDS with a filter that usually works but everyone and then it still clogs on my for whatever reason.

@tomsen check out post #13665 just a page back. It seems most people like some method that drops out yeast before the DH.


do you live inside the cabinet during active fermentation? Ha!
I actually went ahead and bought one of the diptube filters last night. My diptubes are already shortened and strait, so hopefully everything works seemlessly.
 

VirginiaHops1

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I also usually do the Janish dip tube filter method. I usually wrap the mesh canister in a hop bag for extra insurance. I have had issues with just the canister on really big dry hops loads but I didn't use a grommet on the hole I drilled or even cover the little holes in the cannister top so that was probably it. Wrapping in a mesh bag has pretty much eliminated clogs.

I know you get better utilization with the hops loose but I'm also not sure how much better. But since it's really no extra hassle to do it that way seems like a no-brainer especially when it's a really big dry hop
 

HopsAreGood

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I also usually do the Janish dip tube filter method. I usually wrap the mesh canister in a hop bag for extra insurance. I have had issues with just the canister on really big dry hops loads but I didn't use a grommet on the hole I drilled or even cover the little holes in the cannister top so that was probably it. Wrapping in a mesh bag has pretty much eliminated clogs.

I know you get better utilization with the hops loose but I'm also not sure how much better. But since it's really no extra hassle to do it that way seems like a no-brainer especially when it's a really big dry hop
The way it appeared to me when purchasing it was to use a number 6 or 6.5 stopper. Drill a hole in the stopper and run the dip tube through it. I know what you mean with the canister but hopefully the stopper will work well.

50BB6F50-1004-440F-A47E-4B53399B7CA9.png
 

BoilerInSoCal

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First of all, I just want to say what an amazing thread this is! Thanks to everyone for all their input.

I have made a number of batches using the base recipe in 5803 which is boss. My latest with that was a 40 min. boil with 0.75 oz Amarillo at 30 min and 2oz:2oz:2oz whirlpool of Citra:Mosaic:Amarillo at 175 for 20 min. and the same hops/amounts in the DH. 1318 yeast. Simply amazing. I'd highly recommend.

A few weeks ago I decided to try a new base, well, just because. I went with 80% Pilsner, 13% white wheat, 3% honey malt, and 4% dextrose for an OG of 1.078. This time I went with the Trillium-ish Columbus start. 0.5 oz at 60 min., 1 oz. at 10 min. and 3 oz. in whirlpool at 175 for 20 min. And for the first time, I went with all Vic Secret in the DH (7 oz) and used A38 Juice. I cannot thank enough the poster that recommended an all Vic Secret DH somewhere in this thread. This one is really nice! Although the AA was a whopping 19.2%, I am not getting any hop burn like I have in Galaxy heavy DH beers. It is going to be fun pairing VS with other varieties.
 

hopfenstopfen

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The way it appeared to me when purchasing it was to use a number 6 or 6.5 stopper. Drill a hole in the stopper and run the dip tube through it. I know what you mean with the canister but hopefully the stopper will work well.

View attachment 715102
Just wanted add that I’ve used one of these since I bought my first keg and have never had any issues. One of the more reliable pieces of brewing equipment I use. Highly recommended! I also use silicon #6 stoppers from amazon.

I’m curios what you think of this setup when used with the recipes you’ve posted recently!
 

chieftain

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I am on the 3B train as well. My beers have never stayed as fresh and tasted as bright until I started doing 3B six batches ago. I thought it would be detrimental to keep the hops at ferm temps for 3 days but its just not, especially since they get a good flush of CO2. Having said that, I wait until fermentation is steady to prepare the DH keg and then unhook it and put it in cold storage following day 3 of fermentation. I think the math determined you need about 50 points of fermentation to get a good purge (5 ppb).
Taking this a step further, could you place the DH keg inside a keezer while the fermenter stays outside, thereby keeping the hops cold while the keg is purged? I just brewed an NEIPA yesterday and was going to try 3B for the first time. Might give this approach a shot.
 

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First of all, I just want to say what an amazing thread this is! Thanks to everyone for all their input.

I have made a number of batches using the base recipe in 5803 which is boss. My latest with that was a 40 min. boil with 0.75 oz Amarillo at 30 min and 2oz:2oz:2oz whirlpool of Citra:Mosaic:Amarillo at 175 for 20 min. and the same hops/amounts in the DH. 1318 yeast. Simply amazing. I'd highly recommend.

A few weeks ago I decided to try a new base, well, just because. I went with 80% Pilsner, 13% white wheat, 3% honey malt, and 4% dextrose for an OG of 1.078. This time I went with the Trillium-ish Columbus start. 0.5 oz at 60 min., 1 oz. at 10 min. and 3 oz. in whirlpool at 175 for 20 min. And for the first time, I went with all Vic Secret in the DH (7 oz) and used A38 Juice. I cannot thank enough the poster that recommended an all Vic Secret DH somewhere in this thread. This one is really nice! Although the AA was a whopping 19.2%, I am not getting any hop burn like I have in Galaxy heavy DH beers. It is going to be fun pairing VS with other varieties.
great report! my next hazy will be a citra/VS with 50% wheat, glad yours worked out

edit: also you technically made Farnsworth Street, but a different grain bill
 

JoeMamasIPA

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Taking this a step further, could you place the DH keg inside a keezer while the fermenter stays outside, thereby keeping the hops cold while the keg is purged? I just brewed an NEIPA yesterday and was going to try 3B for the first time. Might give this approach a shot.
While that sounds like a good approach it might lead to a lot of condensation in the DH keg with humid, 65 degree air getting pumped into a cold chamber. Probably wouldn't matter though, its just some liquid. In my experience the room temps for 3 days don't hurt the hops at all. I am getting killer hop flavor at 1oz per gallon dry hop rates so I don't feel the need to make it more complicated.

Also, this is going to sound LODO, but I keep the keg-to-keg jumper tubing short out of fear of Oxygen ingress through the tubing. That vinyl tubing lets in a lot of O2 but I feel like if I keep it short and essentially in a CO2 environment (keezer is flooded with fermentation CO2) it keeps the O2 ingress low.

Give it a try though if its easy enough to do and see what you think.
 

aaronm13

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What's the timescale like on doing this. Typically I'm at about 8-10 days minimum before I can start dry hopping, between fermentation, diacetyl rest and soft crash. So I'd imagine at least10 days at room temps is way too long for hops to be sitting in a keg if you connect up the dry hop keg as soon as you pitch the yeast. How long does it take to totally purge a keg? I'd imagine you need to have it connected as soon as active fermentation starts to get as much co2 as possible.
 

VirginiaHops1

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While that sounds like a good approach it might lead to a lot of condensation in the DH keg with humid, 65 degree air getting pumped into a cold chamber. Probably wouldn't matter though, its just some liquid. In my experience the room temps for 3 days don't hurt the hops at all. I am getting killer hop flavor at 1oz per gallon dry hop rates so I don't feel the need to make it more complicated.

Also, this is going to sound LODO, but I keep the keg-to-keg jumper tubing short out of fear of Oxygen ingress through the tubing. That vinyl tubing lets in a lot of O2 but I feel like if I keep it short and essentially in a CO2 environment (keezer is flooded with fermentation CO2) it keeps the O2 ingress low.

Give it a try though if its easy enough to do and see what you think.
I've never actually thought about this and not sure how big of a deal it is since fermentation activity should keep O2 at bay, but I think your logic/reasoning is sound. I've been using the same vinyl tubing for my main jumper for awhile and when I need more jumpers I use EVABarrier since I bought a big spool of it from Morebeer with the duotight fittings. Love those things and EVABarrier is supposedly much more impermeable to O2. Check it out if you want to maximize your LODO nerdiness(joking)
 

HopsAreGood

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What's the timescale like on doing this. Typically I'm at about 8-10 days minimum before I can start dry hopping, between fermentation, diacetyl rest and soft crash. So I'd imagine at least10 days at room temps is way too long for hops to be sitting in a keg if you connect up the dry hop keg as soon as you pitch the yeast. How long does it take to totally purge a keg? I'd imagine you need to have it connected as soon as active fermentation starts to get as much co2 as possible.
I’ve had them in the dry hop keg up to 10 to 12 days before. I will usually do a couple of 30 psi purge cycles immediately after hanging the hops in the keg. Then once the fermentation CO2 kicks in it finishes off the job. You can even do a couple of manual purges as well if you want after. It seems like a leap of faith if you’ve never done it before, but I can honestly say I’ve never seen any negative effects Of having the hops in the keg at room temperature for an extended period of time.
 

aaronm13

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I’ve had them in the dry hop keg up to 10 to 12 days before. I will usually do a couple of 30 psi purge cycles immediately after hanging the hops in the keg. Then once the fermentation CO2 kicks in it finishes off the job. You can even do a couple of manual purges as well if you want after. It seems like a leap of faith if you’ve never done it before, but I can honestly say I’ve never seen any negative effects Of having the hops in the keg at room temperature for an extended period of time.
Yeah it seems to go against everything we've been told about hop storage, haha. Would suck to loose a lb of dry hops but you've done it many times by the sounds of it so sounds good. Going to try this on my next brew, ordered some mesh bags today so should be all set.
 

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