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American IPA "Northeast" style IPA

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Dgallo

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Can't imagine it won't be good. I've used Nelson & Enigma a couple of times and really dug the vinous, red berry thing. I think Mosaic would be a great addition.

Btw - I used your Riwaka, Nelson, Citra combo and it's killer!
Thanks for the info. I’m certainly looking for a berry forward ipa with some earth tones.

And I’m glad you liked the Riwaka Nelson Citra. It’s quickly becoming my favorite
 

aaronm13

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So going ahead with that combo

Grain
70% Pilsner
17% wheat malt
10% oat malt
3% honey malt
Targeting OG 1.072
Targeting FG 1.012-1.014
Yeast: Imperial A24


Boil
Magnum @60 - 20 ibus
Enigma @ 10

Hopstand
Enigma & Mosiac pellet 2:1

Dryhop
Enigma, Nelson, & Mosaic LUPOMAX
2:1:1 by weight
Good luck with it and keep us posted on how it turns out. Going to try and pick up some Nelson soon as I've really come around to liking it.

Would that be your normal grain bill % in relation to wheat 17% and oats 10%? I'm usually the opposite way, do you find the more wheat adds to the final beer?
 

Dgallo

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Good luck with it and keep us posted on how it turns out. Going to try and pick up some Nelson soon as I've really come around to liking it.

Would that be your normal grain bill % in relation to wheat 17% and oats 10%? I'm usually the opposite way, do you find the more wheat adds to the final beer?
I’ve been back and forth with the two of them, all have been good but I haven’t quite liked the murkier look to the high oat malt percentage. Unless it’s in the sun it doesn’t pop the way I’d like so I’m dropping it this time to see if it helps brighten the color a tad
 

aaronm13

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I’ve been back and forth with the two of them, all have been good but I haven’t quite liked the murkier look to the high oat malt, so I’m dropping it this time to see if it helps brighten the color a tad
Definitely, interested to see how this works out for you. Lower oats should make for an easier mash and sparge.
 

skleice

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Thanks for the info. I’m certainly looking for a berry forward ipa with some earth tones.

And I’m glad you liked the Riwaka Nelson Citra. It’s quickly becoming my favorite
I was gonna try using Millennium in the kettle on the next one. It's high on the survivables chart and may bring some nice spicy herbaceousness. We'll see...
 

Noob_Brewer

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So going ahead with that combo

Grain
70% Pilsner
17% wheat malt
10% oat malt
3% honey malt
Targeting OG 1.072
Targeting FG 1.012-1.014
Yeast: Imperial A24


Boil
Magnum @60 - 20 ibus
Enigma @ 10

Hopstand
Enigma & Mosiac pellet 2:1

Dryhop
Enigma, Nelson, & Mosaic LUPOMAX
2:1:1 by weight
never brewed with Enigma but looks/sounds tasty
 

R.A.I.D

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So going ahead with that combo

Grain
70% Pilsner
17% wheat malt
10% oat malt
3% honey malt
Targeting OG 1.072
Targeting FG 1.012-1.014
Yeast: Imperial A24


Boil
Magnum @60 - 20 ibus
Enigma @ 10

Hopstand
Enigma & Mosiac pellet 2:1

Dryhop
Enigma, Nelson, & Mosaic LUPOMAX
2:1:1 by weight
Looks like something Mosaic could dominate.

I also prefer to go heavier on malted wheat than malted oat. Based on split tasting.
 

Dgallo

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Looks like something Mosaic could dominate.

I also prefer to go heavier on malted wheat than malted oat. Based on split tasting.
If mosaic takes over enigma or Nelson here I will be absolutely dumb founded
 

beervoid

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So I made this comparison batch with a pilsner/gp base and a pilsner/munich base.
Had some samples of the finished beer laying around the fridge in glass bottles.
After about 2 weeks the munich samples started showing the typical oxidation signs while the pilsner/gp samples are much lighter in colour.
Any thoughts as too why this can be the case?
I know brewers have avoided crystal in recent times, munich is not a crystal malt.
 

marjen

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I have a couple questions.

1. Are people using LupoMAX in the whirlpool as well or just dry hop? i have a pound of citra and mosaic i am looking to brew with.
2. I see a lot of people dry hopping now after soft crash Down in the 50s. Does this mean its no longer considered best to dry hop after high Krausen? Are people splitting in this scenario, half early, half after soft crash or has it become more wait till after fermentation and dry hop at a lower temp?
 

skleice

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2. I see a lot of people dry hopping now after soft crash Down in the 50s. Does this mean its no longer considered best to dry hop after high Krausen? Are people splitting in this scenario, half early, half after soft crash or has it become more wait till after fermentation and dry hop at a lower temp?
The consensus in this thread (myself included) definitely sways more towards waiting until after a good soft crash. Some guys still do 2 dh additions after crashing. I just do 1 big one. However, there are still plenty of people that advocate the krausen dh and are big believers in biotransformation. It all depends on your taste and equipment.
 

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In case anyone missed the email. YVH confirmed they have 2020 amarillo, bru1 and ekuanot lupomax. I did validate they are all in stock this time around. YVH said more varieties to follow later this month.
 

JoeMamasIPA

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I have a couple questions.

1. Are people using LupoMAX in the whirlpool as well or just dry hop? i have a pound of citra and mosaic i am looking to brew with.
2. I see a lot of people dry hopping now after soft crash Down in the 50s. Does this mean its no longer considered best to dry hop after high Krausen? Are people splitting in this scenario, half early, half after soft crash or has it become more wait till after fermentation and dry hop at a lower temp?
I use Lupo in the WP as well just because it results in less hop matter trying to get into the fermenter. If you use hop spiders/screens it may just be wasteful. I don't seem to get a lot of in-your-face hop flavor from the WP because those flavors have to survive a gnarly ferment and then a settling period before drinking. Instead it seems like the WP helps lay the foundational flavor (adds complexity) to build on with the dryhop. My 2 cents.
 

JoeMamasIPA

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In case anyone missed the email. YVH confirmed they have 2020 amarillo, bru1 and ekuanot lupomax. I did validate they are all in stock this time around. YVH said more varieties to follow later this month.
Damn, I have so many hops in my freezer right now Yakima Valley is calling to see if I will sell... Also, SWMBO has frozen pizzas that will not allow for any more Lupo. Thanks for the heads up though.
 

BeerFst

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Damn, I have so many hops in my freezer right now Yakima Valley is calling to see if I will sell... Also, SWMBO has frozen pizzas that will not allow for any more Lupo. Thanks for the heads up though.
Haha I’m in the same boat. I have way too many. I’m waiting until the Citra And mosaic are in stock, probably get some bru1 and maybe i7

ive been trying to brew whatever I can in 8oz increments even if unnecessary. Just did a Pilsner with 8oz of old huell melon. Didn’t get much any melon, and was way too grassy at first, but it seems to have mellowed out finally
 
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Beerdrinker85

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Haha I’m in the same boat. I have way too many. I’m waiting until the Citra And mosaic are in stock, probably get some bru1 and maybe i7

ive been trying to brew whatever I can in 8oz increments even if unnecessary. Just did a Pilsner with 8oz of old huell melon. Didn’t get much any melon, and was way too grassy at first, but it seems to have mellowed out finally
I also did a pilsner back in november with 3oz of Huell Melon (2017 harvest) + 1oz of saaz and also didn't get any melon from it and it was grassy. Not the best pilsner I made.
 

Dgallo

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Haha I’m in the same boat. I have way too many. I’m waiting until the Citra And mosaic are in stock, probably get some bru1 and maybe i7

ive been trying to brew whatever I can in 8oz increments even if unnecessary. Just did a Pilsner with 8oz of old huell melon. Didn’t get much any melon, and was way too grassy at first, but it seems to have mellowed out finally
I also have never been impressed with huell melon. One west coast beer I did with it and Medusa came out good but that was it.

Was that 8 oz in 5g or 10g batch?
 

BeerFst

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@Beerdrinker85

This was 2016, I think? it was sitting in the bottom of the chest freezer from that 47 hops "trust us we aren't going out of business" going out of business sale. I had a bad experience with some Mandarina or Azacca from them. I wasn't expecting much to be honest here. I had 2 beers many years ago (2013?) from Brewmaster Jack when Huell and Mandarina first came out and both were exactly as described, so maybe it is a homebrew vs commercial problem.

@Dgallo This was 8 oz in ~4.5g (ferment in corny) 0.5 @40, .05 @15, [email protected], [email protected], [email protected], 3 dryhop 3 days @ 64deg. 7.5%AA, 36 IBUs

I prefer the slightly warmer dry hop than has been discussed, even at the occasional expense of creep, though in this case I hit my target of 1.010.

I was trying to use up some malt as well on this one as well, and pitched it on a yeast cake from a marzen. Time was the only real expense on this one.

fermented 2 weeks starting at 52 then ramping up end of second week to 63. added dry hops on 12/4.

It lagered at 32 for about a week or so, then sat at keezer temp (38) for a couple weeks. brewed mid/late November. It initially had an overwhelmingly grassy aroma, but taste was alright. I didnt fine this one, but it has gotten much clearer in the past two weeks. as it has cleared it has gotten much better, so perhaps the grassy was related. the grass is still there, but it's almost pleasant now. I would do this grain bill again for sure, but not this hop.
 

VirginiaHops1

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I know the Veil has been discussed on this thread, but does anyone have good information on the yeast used in their NEIPAs? It does seem that they use RVA yeast labs in at least some beers.

Relatedly, I should have the opportunity to pick some RVA labs yeast in a few days. Doe anyone have experience with their Manchester and Conan strains? From Janish's old posts, it sounds like the Manchester strain is unique enough cf. 1318 to try.
Alot of the Richmond breweries use RVA yeast so I would guess there's a good chance Veil is using the Manchester strain. Triple Crossing is another killer Richmond brewery using RVA yeast and while they didn't come out and say it they heavily alluded to using LA3/Manchester in a podcast I listened to a couple years ago. I've thought about getting some RVA yeast for fun(I also read Janish's write-up) but never did it. If you try it report back
 

TBryerton

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Alot of the Richmond breweries use RVA yeast so I would guess there's a good chance Veil is using the Manchester strain. Triple Crossing is another killer Richmond brewery using RVA yeast and while they didn't come out and say it they heavily alluded to using LA3/Manchester in a podcast I listened to a couple years ago. I've thought about getting some RVA yeast for fun(I also read Janish's write-up) but never did it. If you try it report back
Slightly off subject, but I’ve only had the opportunity to visit Triple Crossing once and hadn’t really heard anything about them until I planned a visit to Richmond. I was very impressed with the IPAs I had. As good or better than the majority of the IPAs I’ve had.
 

VirginiaHops1

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Slightly off subject, but I’ve only had the opportunity to visit Triple Crossing once and hadn’t really heard anything about them until I planned a visit to Richmond. I was very impressed with the IPAs I had. As good or better than the majority of the IPAs I’ve had.
Richmond's beer scene is phenomenal. Probably one of the best on the east coast and definitely the best in VA. I went there for my 40th bday and Triple Crossing really blew me away. Probably my favorite from that trip, better than Veil. I dropped by again like a year later to a new/2nd location they had opened and unfortunately the beer wasn't that great, serious hop burn. I'd heard they had some issues with the new location. Veil has been having similar issues lately too. It's unfortunate when these great breweries try to scale due to explosive demand and the product suffers. I still think TC is cranking out great beer though and that was just a hiccup.
 

olotti

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Soft crash question. When I did this recently on 2 neipas using kviek the hops just dropped right out almost immediately. I pulled my carboy out of the keezer when temp hit 50 then I added 4oz of pellet hops and instead of them floating and breaking up half just sank. Any idea why this would happen? I like the idea of this technique to reduce creep but I don’t want to waste money on hops that just drop right out and won’t contribute anything. So I’m wondering if its something I did as I’d like to try this again on my latest neipa using omega DIPA ie.conan yeast.
 

couchsending

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Just got an email from Morebeer about Verdant IPA yeast. Anyone try this? I know I've seen it talked about in another neipa thread, but not sure if anyone here has tried it with success? LalBrew® Verdant IPA Yeast - Lallemand | MoreBeer
For dry yeast it’s great. Probably the best dry yeast available for any style you want some English character. It’s slightly morphed 1318 in dry form. Little better attenuation
 

anteater8

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Soft crash question. When I did this recently on 2 neipas using kviek the hops just dropped right out almost immediately. I pulled my carboy out of the keezer when temp hit 50 then I added 4oz of pellet hops and instead of them floating and breaking up half just sank. Any idea why this would happen? I like the idea of this technique to reduce creep but I don’t want to waste money on hops that just drop right out and won’t contribute anything. So I’m wondering if its something I did as I’d like to try this again on my latest neipa using omega DIPA ie.conan yeast.
The same thing happened to me on my first soft crash. Since then I let the beer rise back up to at 60-65 before adding the hops, seems to work much better.
 

olotti

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Ok glad I’m not the only one. I’ve read countless threads where people soft crash and no one else mentions this happening made me think I was doing something wrong. so ill let it warm back up a little more and try that and maybe using a yeast that doesn’t completely drop 100% like kviek will help suspend the hop particulate a little more.
 

cheesebach

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Given that many here are now adding all dry hops after a soft crash and lower temps (around 60F or so), has anyone run into issues with shipping those beers or entering them in competition? I'm guessing hop creep could cause issues if the beer is allowed to warm up to room temperature, which might be avoiding by adding at least some dry hops during fermentation or before the soft crash (or allowing the beer to warm up to fermentation temps during dry hopping after the soft crash).

In my last NEIPA, I brewed a DIPA with an OG of 1.084 and decided to add 1/2 my dry hops after fermentation (but before soft crash), and I was blown away by the amount of additional fermentation the dry hops produced. The primary fermentation finished higher than I'm used to (probably due to no dry hops during active fermentation) and finished at 1.021. After I added the dry hops, fermentation activity resumed within about a day and continued for another few days until it finished at 1.016.

I'm assuming that since one of the goals of the soft crash is to drop the yeast out, that skipping the primary fermentation dry hop has significant risks if you're bottling any of it and can't ensure that it will be kept cold always? Or is there anything that us homebrewers can do to reduce that risk?
 

Noob_Brewer

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Given that many here are now adding all dry hops after a soft crash and lower temps (around 60F or so), has anyone run into issues with shipping those beers or entering them in competition? I'm guessing hop creep could cause issues if the beer is allowed to warm up to room temperature, which might be avoiding by adding at least some dry hops during fermentation or before the soft crash (or allowing the beer to warm up to fermentation temps during dry hopping after the soft crash).

In my last NEIPA, I brewed a DIPA with an OG of 1.084 and decided to add 1/2 my dry hops after fermentation (but before soft crash), and I was blown away by the amount of additional fermentation the dry hops produced. The primary fermentation finished higher than I'm used to (probably due to no dry hops during active fermentation) and finished at 1.021. After I added the dry hops, fermentation activity resumed within about a day and continued for another few days until it finished at 1.016.

I'm assuming that since one of the goals of the soft crash is to drop the yeast out, that skipping the primary fermentation dry hop has significant risks if you're bottling any of it and can't ensure that it will be kept cold always? Or is there anything that us homebrewers can do to reduce that risk?
The only times Ive gotten hop creep that had accompanying additional 1-2points of attenuation was when I was soft crashing but only to 57-58ish for 24 hrs. I have had no episodes of hop creep when soft crashing to 50 and holding it there for 36hrs prior to upping the temps to 60 for the 2 dry hops that I do. Ive shipped a few cans (borrowed my HB clubs canning machine) to friends with no issues.
 

Dgallo

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Given that many here are now adding all dry hops after a soft crash and lower temps (around 60F or so), has anyone run into issues with shipping those beers or entering them in competition? I'm guessing hop creep could cause issues if the beer is allowed to warm up to room temperature, which might be avoiding by adding at least some dry hops during fermentation or before the soft crash (or allowing

In my last NEIPA, I brewed a DIPA with an OG of 1.084 and decided to add 1/2 my dry hops after fermentation (but before soft crash), and I was blown away by the amount of additional fermentation the dry hops produced. The primary fermentation finished higher than I'm used to (probably due to no dry hops during active fermentation) and finished at 1.021. After I added the dry hops, fermentation activity resumed within about a day and continued for another few days until it finished at 1.016.

I'm assuming that since one of the goals of the soft crash is to drop the yeast out, that skipping the primary fermentation dry hop has significant risks if you're bottling any of it and can't ensure that it will be kept cold always? Or is there anything that us homebrewers can do to reduce that risk?
That’s genuinely a good question. I haven’t shipped for comp yet where I soft crashed

You could always target a lower fg to start for the impact to be less
 
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stickyfinger

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my hops always sink when added at 50F. Just an added benefit. It’s ready to rack right away. The hops sink and the beer turns very cloudy with hoppy goodness. I am going to try racking to a dryhop keg next and invert it a few times per day to see if it extracts any more.

Soft crash question. When I did this recently on 2 neipas using kviek the hops just dropped right out almost immediately. I pulled my carboy out of the keezer when temp hit 50 then I added 4oz of pellet hops and instead of them floating and breaking up half just sank. Any idea why this would happen? I like the idea of this technique to reduce creep but I don’t want to waste money on hops that just drop right out and won’t contribute anything. So I’m wondering if its something I did as I’d like to try this again on my latest neipa using omega DIPA ie.conan yeast.
 

HopsAreGood

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3A4C1575-AEE3-4238-BF4D-B2095F415DCA.jpeg
Sample pour from my latest attempt and I’m really liking this one. For this one I added zero hot side hops making it a 100% dry hopped beer.

70% 2-row
20% white wheat
10% malted oats
7.5% abv

4 oz Apollo (added at the same time as pitching the yeast) which was a 1L starter of the new omega sundew.

Soft crashed to 60 for 12 hours then dry hopped directly in the fermenter with:

4 oz Vic Secret
4 oz Nelson
2 oz Citra Cryo

Held the temp at 60 for 48 hours then transferred into a purged keg with a nylon bag suspended containing:

4 oz Mosaic Lupomax

The keg has been in the chest freezer at 48 degrees for 48 hours and I’m going to leave it there for the duration.

So far it’s extremely dank and fruity. There’s zero bitterness but it’s not cloying and I have to say it’s probably one of the most aromatic and flavorful beers I’ve ever made.
 

olotti

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my hops always sink when added at 50F. Just an added benefit. It’s ready to rack right away. The hops sink and the beer turns very cloudy with hoppy goodness. I am going to try racking to a dryhop keg next and invert it a few times per day to see if it extracts any more.
how Is that a benefit? Don’t we want he hops to float and break up thereby coming into contact with more beer and releas8ng more oils. If they sink and stay in pellet form doesn’t seem like were getting all the good extraction out of them.
 

Dgallo

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how Is that a benefit? Don’t we want he hops to float and break up thereby coming into contact with more beer and releas8ng more oils. If they sink and stay in pellet form doesn’t seem like were getting all the good extraction out of them.
They break up at the bottom of your fermenter, just as they would on top. For those who have the ability to removed the trub and yeast prior, you can rouse them with co2 or a gentle rocking. The problem is most homebrewers can’t dump their trub(myself included) so you really need to find the coldest temperature that will keep them in suspension for you. For me it’s about 57/58.

Last brew I went a little colder and ran 4 oz of the dryhop through a coffee gribder, very quick/roughly to see if it would help def seemed to help a little. I was worried it might add to cause some oxidation but I haven’t detected any. Next dryhop I’m going to try to do that to about 60% of the dryhop
 
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Noob_Brewer

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how Is that a benefit? Don’t we want he hops to float and break up thereby coming into contact with more beer and releas8ng more oils. If they sink and stay in pellet form doesn’t seem like were getting all the good extraction out of them.
I personally don't worry too much if they initially sink to the bottom as they always appear to break up for me. I dry hop at 60 after warming up after soft crash at 50. I had more pellets sinking like rocks when I was taking them straight from the freezer to the fermenter, but I quickly switched to taking the hops out of the freezer to let them warm up to room temp before I dry hop them. This has helped to allow them to breakup quicker. Ideally, I agree with you in that Id prefer to see a nice "carpet" of hops at the top of the liquid level and all submerged in the beer as they gradually fall down in smaller particles. But even with how I am doing it now, sometimes the more dense hops still seem to drop initially. But, at kegging time after Ive kegged, all hops at the bottom have always been broken up which tells me the oils are in solution.
 

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@Dgallo on the topic of non brooklyn otherhalf I’ve finally been impressed by a Rochester beer, invisible beams. Funny enough though it’s Nelson, riwaka, Citra.

flavor could have been a little fuller but aroma was killer. Didn’t get the diesel from the riwaka eq had last year but this had it however slight. It was kind of neat.

Digital vibrations from roc was a little hot for a double and double green dots from DC is too. The aroma from dots was actually pretty solid but even hotter than vibrations.

whatever Citra Brooklyn is using is killer though. The Citra showers from a month or two ago was awesome and this current batch of small Citra matches it. I was pretty disappointed with a batch of small Citra in 2020, so surprised how much better this batch is.
 

olotti

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I personally don't worry too much if they initially sink to the bottom as they always appear to break up for me. I dry hop at 60 after warming up after soft crash at 50. I had more pellets sinking like rocks when I was taking them straight from the freezer to the fermenter, but I quickly switched to taking the hops out of the freezer to let them warm up to room temp before I dry hop them. This has helped to allow them to breakup quicker. Ideally, I agree with you in that Id prefer to see a nice "carpet" of hops at the top of the liquid level and all submerged in the beer as they gradually fall down in smaller particles. But even with how I am doing it now, sometimes the more dense hops still seem to drop initially. But, at kegging time after Ive kegged, all hops at the bottom have always been broken up which tells me the oils are in solution.
These are the experiences I’m looking for. Thanks. how long do u soft crash at 50? In ur experience is it more important as to the time it sits at 50 or that the fermenter is just cooled to shock and drop the yeast Regardless of time it takes to get there. For me it only takes about 2-3hrs in my keezer at 36deg to get from 70 to 50. I see some who obviously have temp control will soft crash at 50 for 48hrs, I don’t have that option at the moment.

I’ve been soft crashing in my keezer to 50 and this time I’m going to let the fermenter rise back to atleast 60 and do like u said, measure out the hops and let them come to room temp Before dropping em in Hopefully they won’t all drop like rocks. I only let this second dh sit for about 36-48hrs before cold crashing For another 48hrs.
 

Dgallo

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These are the experiences I’m looking for. Thanks. how long do u soft crash at 50? In ur experience is it more important as to the time it sits at 50 or that the fermenter is just cooled to shock and drop the yeast Regardless of time it takes to get there. For me it only takes about 2-3hrs in my keezer at 36deg to get from 70 to 50. I see some who obviously have temp control will soft crash at 50 for 48hrs, I don’t have that option at the moment.

I’ve been soft crashing in my keezer to 50 and this time I’m going to let the fermenter rise back to atleast 60 and do like u said, measure out the hops and let them come to room temp Before dropping em in Hopefully they won’t all drop like rocks. I only let this second dh sit for about 36-48hrs before cold crashing For another 48hrs.


Temp control for your keezer for $50 bucks
 

secretlevel

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I personally don't worry too much if they initially sink to the bottom as they always appear to break up for me. I dry hop at 60 after warming up after soft crash at 50. I had more pellets sinking like rocks when I was taking them straight from the freezer to the fermenter, but I quickly switched to taking the hops out of the freezer to let them warm up to room temp before I dry hop them. This has helped to allow them to breakup quicker. Ideally, I agree with you in that Id prefer to see a nice "carpet" of hops at the top of the liquid level and all submerged in the beer as they gradually fall down in smaller particles. But even with how I am doing it now, sometimes the more dense hops still seem to drop initially. But, at kegging time after Ive kegged, all hops at the bottom have always been broken up which tells me the oils are in solution.
Never thought of warming up the hops a bit, that's a good idea. At this point "noob" is no longer applicable. I'd say you have graduated to at the very least Intermediate_Brewer :)
 

Noob_Brewer

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These are the experiences I’m looking for. Thanks. how long do u soft crash at 50? In ur experience is it more important as to the time it sits at 50 or that the fermenter is just cooled to shock and drop the yeast Regardless of time it takes to get there. For me it only takes about 2-3hrs in my keezer at 36deg to get from 70 to 50. I see some who obviously have temp control will soft crash at 50 for 48hrs, I don’t have that option at the moment.

I’ve been soft crashing in my keezer to 50 and this time I’m going to let the fermenter rise back to atleast 60 and do like u said, measure out the hops and let them come to room temp Before dropping em in Hopefully they won’t all drop like rocks. I only let this second dh sit for about 36-48hrs before cold crashing For another 48hrs.
I think the time needed to get the yeast to drop when soft crashing is yeast dependent, but in general I have it at 50 for 36hrs. 36hrs seems, to me, to be a sweet spot for the yeasts I am using. But since I have a fermonster, I can also visually see it clear up nicely during he soft crash too, so thats nice confirmation for me. the 36hrs is also very practical for me. For example, I hit 50 degrees on tuesday at about 7pm with a pale ale. So this morning at about 8am (37hrs @50), I started warming it up to 60 for dry hopping. I use a fermwrap and it works great. I hit 60 at about 12:30pm today I think and I dry hopped at 1pm. Let us know how your second DH goes! Again - I don't think you need to freak out if some drop initially, because they are still in the beer and will break up if your beer temps are in the high 50s-62ish range.
 

Noob_Brewer

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Never thought of warming up the hops a bit, that's a good idea. At this point "noob" is no longer applicable. I'd say you have graduated to at the very least Intermediate_Brewer :)
Lol, Im going to just assume that was a compliment :). But yes, I really didn't think through my name on here when I signed up lol. But, technically Im still in my rookie season of home brewing. Jan 11th of last year was my first brew day;). So I will take "intermediate" any day of the week right now. Cheers!
 
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