I've used in this beer: 1469, WLP022, Conan, 1318, Conan/1318 blended, Trois, a blend of BA11/Trois, and a blend of all of those. Not a bad beer out of any of these, but WLP022 was the least fruity. Fruitiness ranked: 1. Trois/BA11, 2. Trois, 3. Blend of all the strains, 4. Tie - Conan, Conan/1318, 5. 1469, 6. WLP022. I personally preferred the beer I made with a big blend.
New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA
- Thread starter Braufessor
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I've used in this beer: 1469, WLP022, Conan, 1318, Conan/1318 blended, Trois, a blend of BA11/Trois, and a blend of all of those. Not a bad beer out of any of these, but WLP022 was the least fruity. Fruitiness ranked: 1. Trois/BA11, 2. Trois, 3. Blend of all the strains, 4. Tie - Conan, Conan/1318, 5. 1469, 6. WLP022. I personally preferred the beer I made with a big blend.
I just tried some Whoa Equinox from Magnify Brewing and it would certainly qualify as a NEIPA. Equinox starts out sweet and fruity, but it's sort of dryer than Citra/etc. The fruitiness goes away a bit on the finish and it's replaced with this sort of green peppery/piney/almost spicy flavor that is very unique and nice. I thought it was a very good beer.. I wouldn't hesitate to mess with Equinox in your recipes.
ThatVideoKid
Well-Known Member
For some reason I want to make a beer with this method but using a hop that isn't the norm. Like an British hop like Brewers gold or bramling cross? Why I have no idea but I want to do it to see what it would taste like.
brewski09
Well-Known Member
I'm curious too. Stone did gotterdamerung (sp?) IPA using all German hops couple years ago and it was interesting.
ThatVideoKid
Well-Known Member
Well bramling cross and pilgrim are interesting in that along with the English spice, they have citrus and currant flavors, so I feel like it could work. I haven't done many IPAs yet though, but I will definitely try this in a couple months
DaveDiedDancing
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I also wanted to try some hops that I have not brewed with before. I managed to get some Enigma, Kohatu, and Moteuka and used them in this recipe. I'm drinking it now and it's excellent. I also kegged it for the first time using the method described by the OP (using the screen/filters). Hopefully this helps it keep longer. My IPAs were losing steam early.
milldoggy
Well-Known Member
I did us tettnager with Amarillo. Just kegged it, pulled and carbed some pre dry hop. Very good. I would say go for any hop combo
ThatVideoKid
Well-Known Member
Why when I heard any hop I just thought of a true abomination, I really don't know. This recipe as a single hop Saaz or styrian beer. 3oz at flameout, 3oz whirlpool, and 3oz dryhop. Like a noble milkshake.
Probably would actually need closer to a pound per 5gal to get a similar affect, but boy would that be weird.
Probably would be one of the few to ever be whirlpooling noble hops
they are noble hops for a reason. trust me.
a while ago i tried 21oz to make a "noble ipa". gross, came off all weird. Less hop character than ones I made with half that amount of typical IPA hops
ThatVideoKid
Well-Known Member
Yeah that's kindof how I figured it would go.
So I'm going to start with a more normal version of this beer. Similar malt bill but I upped the oats. Using 1318. I'm sticking with more classic American hops though because I had 5oz of cascade to burn.
So I have 5oz cascade, 2oz centennial, 2oz of ahtanum. I also have 2oz Galaxy and 4oz of exp7270 as well that I didn't intend on using but it's fair game. Not sure what amounts I'll use and when but in open to suggestions.
Braufessor, what is your preferred grain bill these days? You said a little while back that you have been bumping the flaked and wheat up to 15-18%, which is higher than the original posted recipe.
I recently brewed the original grain bill, and it was fantastic, but I'd like to go a little bigger and increase mouthfeel and perceived sweetness a bit.
I'm brewing this weekend, planning on:
6.5 lb American - Pale 2-Row 40.3%
6.5 lb United Kingdom - Golden Promise 40.3%
1 lb Flaked Oats 6.2%
1 lb Flaked Barley 6.2%
0.75 lb American - Wheat 4.7%
6 oz Canadian - Honey Malt 2.3%
This should give me an OG of 1.074, hopefully winding up around 1.018 for about 7.3% ABV.
Thoughts?
I recently brewed the original grain bill, and it was fantastic, but I'd like to go a little bigger and increase mouthfeel and perceived sweetness a bit.
I'm brewing this weekend, planning on:
6.5 lb American - Pale 2-Row 40.3%
6.5 lb United Kingdom - Golden Promise 40.3%
1 lb Flaked Oats 6.2%
1 lb Flaked Barley 6.2%
0.75 lb American - Wheat 4.7%
6 oz Canadian - Honey Malt 2.3%
This should give me an OG of 1.074, hopefully winding up around 1.018 for about 7.3% ABV.
Thoughts?
Wrong thread, sorry.
Yeah I asked this a while back, he may have forgotten about it.
OG Recipe:
GRAIN BILL:
% and the actual amt. I use for 6.5 gallons @ 84% mash efficiency (your efficiency may vary)
44% Rahr 2 Row ( 5 lbs)
44% Golden Promise (or similar.... Pearl, Maris Otter) (5 lbs)
4% Flaked Oats (1/2 lb)
4% Flaked Barley 1/2 lb)
2% Wheat (1/4 lb)
2% Honey Malt (1/4 lb)
This is about 10% flaked. So I am guessing 18% flaked would look like:
40% 2-Row
40% Golden Promise
7% Flaked Oats
7% Flaked Barley
4% Flaked Wheat
2% Honey Malt
or somewhat similar to this, at least.
What yeast?
I did a version of 10# Golden Promise (80%) and 2.5# Flaked Oats (20%) and mine finished around 1.010-11 with 1318. Drier than I expected. It was still good, but not the mouthfeel I was hoping for with a higher flaked oat amount.
1318. The last batch I did with original grain bill proportions, also 1318, went from 1.060 to 1.014, ABV 6.0%. That's about 77% attenuation. The version I proposed above I plugged in 76%. Also I mashed at 154 and plan to do that again.
OP
OP
Sorry - been out of town for a while and trying to catch up upon getting back, so have been slacking
My last several batches have looked like this:
OG = 1.060
84% efficiency, so adjust accordingly
40-41% Rahr 2 row (5.5lbs)
40-41% Golden Promise (5.5 lbs)
7.5% Flaked oats (1 lb)
3.7% Flaked Barley (.5lb)
3.7% Weyerman Wheat (.5lb)
1.9% Flaked Wheat (.25lb)
1.9% Honey malt (.25lb)
Liking the slightly higher abv. No real desire to go higher though than this..... Not a fan of beers in the 7-8%+ range. This one is right around 6.0%
Conan yeast, Hop schedule still the same. Mixing it up, but still Citra/Mosaic/Galaxy combos seem to be my favorite.
Last two batches I went heavier to sulfate to experiment. One was 140:70 sulfate: chloride (carbonating now), the other was 200:40 sulfate to chloride..... about a week into fermentation. Cautiously optimistic about the first one so far.
My last several batches have looked like this:
OG = 1.060
84% efficiency, so adjust accordingly
40-41% Rahr 2 row (5.5lbs)
40-41% Golden Promise (5.5 lbs)
7.5% Flaked oats (1 lb)
3.7% Flaked Barley (.5lb)
3.7% Weyerman Wheat (.5lb)
1.9% Flaked Wheat (.25lb)
1.9% Honey malt (.25lb)
Liking the slightly higher abv. No real desire to go higher though than this..... Not a fan of beers in the 7-8%+ range. This one is right around 6.0%
Conan yeast, Hop schedule still the same. Mixing it up, but still Citra/Mosaic/Galaxy combos seem to be my favorite.
Last two batches I went heavier to sulfate to experiment. One was 140:70 sulfate: chloride (carbonating now), the other was 200:40 sulfate to chloride..... about a week into fermentation. Cautiously optimistic about the first one so far.
OP
OP
Sampling the 140 sulfate heavy batch. One day on gas. Gotta say, I really like this a lot. I hesitate to say it is drastically different because I am not tasting it blind vs. another version. But, I do think it comes off sharper and a more prominent, focused hop flavor. Bitterness and hop flavor seem to linger more than regular. I would say at the very least it is as good as any batch of this I have brewed. Curious if my other batch that went 200:40 might not actually have gone too far. We will see I guess. For now, I am quite intrigued by this relatively minor adjustment. Next week I think I will brew two to sample head to head.... This one and the original water profile.
stickyfinger
Well-Known Member
You did one with some Eureka! hops, right? What did you think?
OP
OP
"IF" I do it again, I will go a lot lighter on the Eureka.... or different combo. I think I did Citra, Eureka, Columbus..... just too much. Too grassy, too harsh. I think I used an ounce of Eureka in all 4 additions. Plus I think I used a half ounce or so of columbus in all 4. Overwhelming.
I think I drank a gallon straight as is, used 2 gallons to mix with a blonde ale - which was ok, and dumped the last 2 gallons down the drain.
If I was going to do it again, I would maybe go
1.5 Citra
1.0 mosaic
.5 Eureka
in all 4 additions and evaluate it from there.
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Braufessor, question on your blonde. I'm following your method for growing up Conan. Where does the gravity usually settle out at for that beer? Mine is sitting right at 1.012 currently after a week, which is where i expect it on the larger IPAs. Didn't know if you see it lower on the blonde or not.
Thanks
Thanks
OP
OP
I would say 1.011-1.012 is fairly normal.... especially if it is first generation. I can't say I have ever had it go under 1.010 on any beer I have ever brewed.
I think you are good.... might eek out another point or two, but you are right in the ballpark.
OP
OP
There is no singular answer.
Some of it is honestly yeast and gunk left in suspension. Personally, I am not a big fan of that. Most of the beers I brew are "hazy" - not murky or cloudy. Conan yeast tends to drop better than 1318, and (in general) my process results in most of the yeast, hops, trub, etc dropping out - so, not much ends up making it to serving keg.
Sooooo.... why are the beers still hazy? My personal opinion at this point is that it is several factors working together. I think the following all play a role in the haziness:
*Slightly higher pH in the brew kettle..... most of the beers I brew seem to hit the kettle around 5.35-5.45. In general, I notice better break material when beers are in the 5.25-5.35 range. I think this could be one aspect of it.
*Large amounts of flaked grains.... although, to be honest, I am not so sure how significant this is. I have brewed wheat beers with 60% wheat/flaked that dropped clear......
*In my opinion, the #1 candidate for haze is the large amount of hops that are added to partially chilled wort, and dry hop additions during primary and in the keg..... I think this is a huge part of it. There is some interaction between the large amount of hop oils being introduced at cooler temperatures that creates some of the haze aspect.
* I used to think that high chloride might play a role, but I just brewed a beer with lower chloride and higher sulfate and it was still as hazy as normal..... I don't think that is a factor.
I think lot of hops at cooler temps, and perhaps beer pH are the two leading candidates in my book as far as haze..... when you get to "murky" that is definitely yeast and other gunk in suspension.
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Thank you. First time with Conan yeast and I wasn't sure what to expect. I believe the fridge is set to start dropping temp today so I'll have it in a keg after a few days letting things drop out. Tasted awesome last night when I pulled the gravity sample.
OP
OP
Great.... hope it turns out well for you - It is always nice to have a decent blonde ale available, and it makes a nice clean beer for generating yeast for future brews.
The big thing now is to make sure you are very sanitary in your yeast collection practices...... lots of star san, clean gear, clean surfaces, alcohol swabs, use a flame if appropriate, anything the yeast slurry touches on the way from the fermenter to whatever you are storing the yeast in ..... in particular any spigots get lots of starsan, lip of carboy or buckets if pouring need to be clean and sanitary.
Leave a bit of beer behind in fermenter to swirl up the yeast and pour off. If you are storing it (as opposed to immediate repitch) leave the beer on top of the yeast (like photo below)..... this fermented beer has low pH and alcohol levels that protect the yeast as bacteria cannot get a foothold in that environment. (i.e., it is generally best NOT to "wash" yeast and store it in water).
stickyfinger
Well-Known Member
Any updates to the favorite hop combinations in this? I remember seeing
Citra/Mosaic/Galaxy
Citra/Columbus
Citra/Simcoe
Ever try an all-Galaxy one? Seems like some of the commercial ones use all Galaxy
Citra/Mosaic/Galaxy
Citra/Columbus
Citra/Simcoe
Ever try an all-Galaxy one? Seems like some of the commercial ones use all Galaxy
OP
OP
My two favorites so far are:
1:1:1 Citra Mosaic Galaxy in both kettle additions
1.5:1.5 Citra mosaic in both dry hops
and
1:1:1 Citra Mosaic Galaxy in both kettle additions
1.5:1:.5 Citra Mosaic Galaxy in both dry hops
I have not tried all galaxy...... Personally, I think Galaxy is a hop that adds a lot as a background player but can be rather overwhelming all my itself or in large amounts.
I also have liked
1:1:1 Simcoe Amarillo Centennial in the kettle
1.5:1.5 simcoe amarillo in both dry hops
1:1:1 Citra Mosaic Galaxy in both kettle additions
1.5:1.5 Citra mosaic in both dry hops
and
1:1:1 Citra Mosaic Galaxy in both kettle additions
1.5:1:.5 Citra Mosaic Galaxy in both dry hops
I have not tried all galaxy...... Personally, I think Galaxy is a hop that adds a lot as a background player but can be rather overwhelming all my itself or in large amounts.
I also have liked
1:1:1 Simcoe Amarillo Centennial in the kettle
1.5:1.5 simcoe amarillo in both dry hops
WrQth
Well-Known Member
In the next few weeks I will be brewing this again but with different hops but want to get this a bit drier since the hops have a lot of "sweet" flavor descriptors.
1:1:1 Summer, Mosaic, Cluster
1:1:1 Summer, Mosaic, Cluster
stickyfinger
Well-Known Member
Saw this on the Treehouse Brewing Julius Clone thread:
I don't know how much of this is true, but it is starting to make sense to me. I've made plenty of IPAs that had no added flaked grains, and they have all started clearing within a week or less and have started losing hop flavor as they cleared. This most recent IPA I made with a huge % of flaked grains is staying very cloudy and very hoppy for longer than I am used to. I can't help but think at least part of it is the flaked grains. I also think the Conan is very important. I used to use US-05 all of the time, and it has a much different character compared with Conan, much more dry and rougher to me.
Makes me wonder how far we can push the flaked grains in the style, especially if we want to push down the ABV and still have decent mouthfeel in the beer, with the possible benefit of tons of hop flavor hanging in solution.
I don't know how much of this is true, but it is starting to make sense to me. I've made plenty of IPAs that had no added flaked grains, and they have all started clearing within a week or less and have started losing hop flavor as they cleared. This most recent IPA I made with a huge % of flaked grains is staying very cloudy and very hoppy for longer than I am used to. I can't help but think at least part of it is the flaked grains. I also think the Conan is very important. I used to use US-05 all of the time, and it has a much different character compared with Conan, much more dry and rougher to me.
Makes me wonder how far we can push the flaked grains in the style, especially if we want to push down the ABV and still have decent mouthfeel in the beer, with the possible benefit of tons of hop flavor hanging in solution.
10 days after bottling and 12 hours in the fridge.
I am thinking that this will be the Haus IPA
View attachment 1468071777019.jpg
I am thinking that this will be the Haus IPA
View attachment 1468071777019.jpg
I'm going to pick up supplies to brew this recipe tomorrow. I'm super excited but nervous about the water profile. My tap water is hard and the PH is around 8.2. I have a water report from my county but I have no idea how to read it so I was thinking my best bet would be to use 100% RO water for my mash and sparge.
My bigger question is if I am using yeast 1318 how big of a starter should I make? I increased the grain bill slightly so the final abv should be around 7.5%. Would a 1 liter be enough or do I need a bigger starter?
My bigger question is if I am using yeast 1318 how big of a starter should I make? I increased the grain bill slightly so the final abv should be around 7.5%. Would a 1 liter be enough or do I need a bigger starter?
Do you have a profile planned for the RO water, or do you plan to use it "plain"?
That's 1.8g of gypsum and 4.4g of Cacl. I've used a little more complicated profile, but I think I may use this as well when I brew on Tuesday.
You will need a bigger starter.
Basically, a 5.5 gal batch at 1.070 or so will need 250 to 300 billion cells.
A freshly manufactured 1318 smack pack is only 100 billion.
That number drops as it gets older, for instance 75 billion cells are left after roughly a month.
Using Brewers Friend, I calculate a 1.5 liter starter to get 289 billion cells.
Hope this helps.
What is the date of manufacture on your package of 1318 yeast?
OP
OP
Definitely use the RO water.... Hard water is a disaster for beer like this. The basic additions you have above will get you in the ballpark for sure. It will provide a good base for you to start with and you can tweak it more from there if you want.
I have been bumping up the sulfate in a couple recent attempts and really like it. So, something you might want to try in the future to compare it to would be to do 1 tsp each of both gypsum and CaCl in both mash and sparge. Or, reverse the gypsum and CaCl additions with more gypsum and less CaCl.....That would give you a second and third variation to see if you have a preference between them.
My latest used two row and MO this time and ctz, centennial, Amarillo in the kettle with Amarillo/ citra dbl dry hop, Conan yeast. View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1468098896.526821.jpg
