Yes, right from primary fermenter via a spigot. (It's the Big Mouth Bubbler with spigot.) Happy to say goodbye to the raking cane!
I do leave a little headspace in the bottle. When I take out the bottle wand after filling, it leaves most of the neck empty, so sometimes I fill the neck halfway.
Speaking of bottle wands... I DO have a lot of trub in the bottom of the fermenter, and it does block the spigot. I tried tilting the carboy for the entire fermentation this last time, but either the cake slipped when I moved the carboy for bottling or there's just too much trub. I might try putting some kind of screen in front of the spigot (inside) and see if that works.
In the meantime, I purchased a larger bottling wand (for wine), which works a lot better and doesn't clog. I used the first beer coming out for the hydrometer reading, and I labeled the first and last bottles as "Trub" bottles -- and will open them first to check the carbonation. It usually takes 2 weeks for them to fully carb up, though I have had them good to go in a week.
I wonder if type of yeast has anything to do with oxidation? Of course, fast fermentation is key, but I wonder if anything else about the yeast can factor in? Say what you will about Safale-04, but (for me) it ferments fast and it always hits 1.010, no more or less.
In that beer (that didn't oxidize much at all) I only used flaked barley as the adjunct, no oats. I read somewhere that oats can cause oxidation, and while I'm not sure I believe it, it could be a factor?
That beer was also boiled for 90 minutes to bring down the OG a bit, and the base malt was pilsner. Not sure if either of those things mattered in terms of oxidation...?