418Brewing
Well-Known Member
Okay, so I've done some research but it can be tough sometimes phrasing a question exactly right so that a Google search brings you to the answer to that question, rather than some other question.
I have a wheat beer in the keg that says ~3.10 volumes so I put 20psi on it at 40F. The beer is carbonated, but tastes flatter than it should and comes out pretty foamy.
I see people talking about "serving pressure" and I assume that's the same as "slow force carbonation" which is what the chart I'm reading shows. Just to be clear - "serving pressure" has to be whatever creates the correct amount of carbonation at the correct temperature. Dropping it under that would be like leaving the bottle open - it'll go flat. Right?
The bigger issue I'm having is a slow leak (or leaks) in the CO2 side. I have barbs and clamps (worm drive kind) and I've got them clamped down about as tight as I dare. I have a dual body regulator and if I close the output valves, open the bottle, and then close the bottle it'll hold pressure indefinitely. No leaks there. As near as I can tell everything else leaks except the kegs, which will hold pressure if disconnected. The 3-way manifold has valves - if they're closed the upstream pressure drops off. Charge that back up, open the valves, each one hisses for a little while as each leg repressurizes.
Nothing I've tested bubbles. The leak is where it'll drop to about 5-6psi (from 20psi) over the course of about 12 hours. I'm getting to the point where I'd almost rather just pay someone to come make the problem go away.
Ideas?
I have a wheat beer in the keg that says ~3.10 volumes so I put 20psi on it at 40F. The beer is carbonated, but tastes flatter than it should and comes out pretty foamy.
I see people talking about "serving pressure" and I assume that's the same as "slow force carbonation" which is what the chart I'm reading shows. Just to be clear - "serving pressure" has to be whatever creates the correct amount of carbonation at the correct temperature. Dropping it under that would be like leaving the bottle open - it'll go flat. Right?
The bigger issue I'm having is a slow leak (or leaks) in the CO2 side. I have barbs and clamps (worm drive kind) and I've got them clamped down about as tight as I dare. I have a dual body regulator and if I close the output valves, open the bottle, and then close the bottle it'll hold pressure indefinitely. No leaks there. As near as I can tell everything else leaks except the kegs, which will hold pressure if disconnected. The 3-way manifold has valves - if they're closed the upstream pressure drops off. Charge that back up, open the valves, each one hisses for a little while as each leg repressurizes.
Nothing I've tested bubbles. The leak is where it'll drop to about 5-6psi (from 20psi) over the course of about 12 hours. I'm getting to the point where I'd almost rather just pay someone to come make the problem go away.
Ideas?