Dual Outpur Gas Regulator

[Denis2121]

Hi guys,

Im hoping to start kegging soon and was thinking about getting this regulator:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/15456228...oUcotHji2IIu9IPs39_UaUCe2qxqMPohoCBRUQAvD_BwE

Reason being is that id like to have one batch in a fridge fermenting, another carbonating inside a kegerator using the higher pressure of primary and lastly 2nd keg at serving pressure from secondary.

I only have 1 tap so once the keg is finished carbonating i assume i can lower the pressure to match the secondary ? Or would the primary need to be higher ? If so, would it be an issue if it sat at higher psi for longer period of time as in would it overcarb ? I assume not but want to be sure.

My main question is, if i end up with only 1 keg in the kegerator, the serving one, and connect it to primary, is there a way to shut off the secondary or does it have to be connected to something ? As in if not connected to a keg, would it leak ?

Thanks all.

 

[day_trippr]

That regulator has no output shut off valves which will make for awkward usage. Try to find one with shut offs, you'll be glad you did...

Cheers!

 

[whoaru99]

I'm lost by the use of terms primary and secondary in this context.

Can you clarify what is primary and secondary?

 

[Closet Fermenter]

Many folks delay, or outright refuse to move to kegging for reasons of cost. There’s plenty of debate about that all over. I will say, I started, and kegged for a number of years with a single body, single gauge, regulator.

I would put pressure on my serving keg, pour a pint, then return the connection to the one that I was carbonating. I carbonated using the same serving pressure. By the time I emptied the keg I was drinking, the other one was ready to tap. If it got carbonated before I finished the first, and often it did, I could serve from either. During that time, I only used party taps on the kegs inside an unmodified freezer controlled with an inkbird.
Acquiring a used backup tank at a bargain price was nice since I never knew when my tank was low other than by weight.

All this is to say, you don’t have to go all in to start out. However, I will strongly second the recommendation to have a shutoff valve on your lines. I closed mine after use each evening to avoid finding a freezer full of beer and an empty CO2 tank from a failed seal somewhere.

 

[Broken Crow]

Personal opinion: Don't.
I too found your description a bit confusing so I looked at your other posts and see that you have a fermention fridge that seems to have room only for your sealed bucket fermenter. I am wondering exactly where you need a non-serving CO2 line?
The @KegLand Mk.4 regulator you linked to is a 'Dual-body Primary regulator' ..there is no 'secondary' to it. A secondary gauge is one that is connected downstream from a Primary and typically deals with a much lower input pressure than a tank-mounted gauge sees. Here's a peek at some from one of the better regulator manufacturers: https://www.taprite.com/regulators-beer
When someone is researching for the purchase of their first CO2 regulator, I cannot stress this enough: "Buy Once, Cry Once."
Savings on buying a cheap regulator are completely lost over time when, after much frustration, you end up having to shell out for the one you should have bought in the first place. I love most of Kegland's products, and I have the single-body version of the Mk 4 because it came included with the fine Series-X kegerator I bought.... however, I had to buy a Taprite regulator to replace it, owing mainly to the lack of shut-off valves. The regulator itself is reasonably accurate after you've re-adjusted it a few times over a couple days after fitting a new tank, but even then it has a tendency to drift by up to a hair over 2psi...usually upwards. I do like the nice adjustment knob, which if the tank is in a place it can't be brushed against, makes for easy fiddling, but again: Owing to the lack of a shutoff valve, a tank change requires opening the kegerator and pulling the disconnnects off the kegs, as the disconnects are the only means to arrest gas-flow...and then when connecting a new tank, I have to purge the lines through all attached disconnects.
If you buy a Taprite or Micromatic, you'll have a regulator that will last a lifetime as replacement parts for them are readily available....not to mention alternate fittings, such as an ON/OFF/check-valve/barb or MFL output.
I do give Kegland points for including an MFL output, as most regulators have a barb which is annoying to install EVABarrier line on to (but not impossible).
Take a bit more time and see what others have to say on here and search through some of the threads that seem to apply to your situation, and come back and ask for clarifications on every detail if you need to, before you hit a 'buy' button.

 

[Denis2121]

Many folks delay, or outright refuse to move to kegging for reasons of cost. There’s plenty of debate about that all over. I will say, I started, and kegged for a number of years with a single body, single gauge, regulator.

I would put pressure on my serving keg, pour a pint, then return the connection to the one that I was carbonating. I carbonated using the same serving pressure. By the time I emptied the keg I was drinking, the other one was ready to tap. If it got carbonated before I finished the first, and often it did, I could serve from either. During that time, I only used party taps on the kegs inside an unmodified freezer controlled with an inkbird.
Acquiring a used backup tank at a bargain price was nice since I never knew when my tank was low other than by weight.

All this is to say, you don’t have to go all in to start out. However, I will strongly second the recommendation to have a shutoff valve on your lines. I closed mine after use each evening to avoid finding a freezer full of beer and an empty CO2 tank from a failed seal somewhere.

Appreciate the answer ! It does raise a few more questions for me though as im completely new to this.

1. Lets say im carbing at 16 psi and i want to pour a pint from keg 2 at 12 psi, am i ok to change the pressure whenever needed ?
2. I got much slower at drinking beer now due to kidney stones (urologist says its uric acid from the yeast, main reason i want to keg to get the beer filtered from yeast) so lets say the keg is finished carbing, can it sit in the kegerator for weeks before tapped ? Or will it loose co2 or go bad ?
3. If you close off the valve for a day or two and open again when you want a beer, do you need to wait a certain time or can you pour straight away ?

 

[Denis2121]

Personal opinion: Don't.
I too found your description a bit confusing so I looked at your other posts and see that you have a fermention fridge that seems to have room only for your sealed bucket fermenter. I am wondering exactly where you need a non-serving CO2 line?
The @KegLand Mk.4 regulator you linked to is a 'Dual-body Primary regulator' ..there is no 'secondary' to it. A secondary gauge is one that is connected downstream from a Primary and typically deals with a much lower input pressure than a tank-mounted gauge sees. Here's a peek at some from one of the better regulator manufacturers: https://www.taprite.com/regulators-beer
When someone is researching for the purchase of their first CO2 regulator, I cannot stress this enough: "Buy Once, Cry Once."
Savings on buying a cheap regulator are completely lost over time when, after much frustration, you end up having to shell out for the one you should have bought in the first place. I love most of Kegland's products, and I have the single-body version of the Mk 4 because it came included with the fine Series-X kegerator I bought.... however, I had to buy a Taprite regulator to replace it, owing mainly to the lack of shut-off valves. The regulator itself is reasonably accurate after you've re-adjusted it a few times over a couple days after fitting a new tank, but even then it has a tendency to drift by up to a hair over 2psi...usually upwards. I do like the nice adjustment knob, which if the tank is in a place it can't be brushed against, makes for easy fiddling, but again: Owing to the lack of a shutoff valve, a tank change requires opening the kegerator and pulling the disconnnects off the kegs, as the disconnects are the only means to arrest gas-flow...and then when connecting a new tank, I have to purge the lines through all attached disconnects.
If you buy a Taprite or Micromatic, you'll have a regulator that will last a lifetime as replacement parts for them are readily available....not to mention alternate fittings, such as an ON/OFF/check-valve/barb or MFL output.
I do give Kegland points for including an MFL output, as most regulators have a barb which is annoying to install EVABarrier line on to (but not impossible).
Take a bit more time and see what others have to say on here and search through some of the threads that seem to apply to your situation, and come back and ask for clarifications on every detail if you need to, before you hit a 'buy' button.

What i meant was for example:

Keg 1 in kegerator, serving beer, 12 psi for example
Keg 2 in kegerator, carbing at 16 psi for example, lowering the psi to serving once carbed (not sure if thats required or i could keep at carbing psi for weeks if neede ? ). Ready to be tapped once Keg 1 is finished.
Fermentation bucket in fridge 2, ready to be transfered to Keg 1 once beer is finished.

This is pretty much exactly why i wrote this post as i know nothing about this and whatever i find online seems to confuse me even more so thank you for the explanation especially about the regulators ! Can you explain the difference between dual body primary tegulator vs primary with secondary ?

Is the one i posted just same pressure with 2 connections ? If id buy a single regulator like the one you posted, can i attach secondary to it later ? Im not sure how you know that a certain regulator has the option of having secondary one attached.

 

[Broken Crow]

I'm pretty bad at trying to explain things so I went to youtube to find a video I could post... all the ones I saw were pretty bad and didn't include important details that you're asking about and some of them were full of nonsensical myths and misinformation, so...
To start with; If it's going to be weeks between kegs, don't bother with higher pressure to force-carb....after a couple weeks at serving pressure, the carbing keg will have acheived equilibrium...in any event, the difference between 12-16psi is negligable in the short-term and over time will just lead to over-carbed beer. If you want to quickly force-carb, you crank the pressure up to double or higher and wait 24-48 hours before cranking it down.
The great thing about this site is that it is populated with folk more experienced (and with better functioning brains) than I, so if I make any inaccurate or contentious claims, I will be called out for you to read. (And I will benefit myself by being corrected.)
The CO2 tank has in the neighborhood of 20000psi. The regulator that attaches to the tank and is equiped to cope with that large pressure is the Primary regulator. The most common Primary regulator has a single body, the second most common has 2 bodies in which the feed from the tank is simply passed through to next and are popular with folk in your position that only require 2 seperate pressures. There can be as many bodies as you like, daisy-chained one to the next, but it does make the tank very top-heavy and risky. In setups where multiple different pressures are needed, Secondary regulators are attached by the same gas-line that you would feed to a keg....Secondary regulators are not made to accept the 1000's psi as an input, and again; You can daisy-chain as many as you like. I just stole this photo from the Brulosophy site to illustrate:

Those are Taprite regulators in the picture...They differentiate primaries and secondaries by making Primary knobs red, and Secondaries that sort of 'gold'.
If it helps: My personal criteria for the ideal Homebrewer Primary gauge is that 1/ it have a 0-30psi low-side gauge (though most are 0-60)....the greater the range the output gauge extends to, the more difficult it becomes to adjust to the exact pressure you want. 2/ It has an on/off valve with integrated check-valve ...most available regulators have this. 3/ 1/4" MFL output..most regulators, including my Taprites have a barb which makes it annoying to connect EVABarrier line to.
Another area you may wish to pay attention to since you're just beginning your kegging journey: Use EVABarrier!!! I'll let you read about it in other threads, that include connection to barb solutions. But if you don't start with O2-excluding gas line, that'll be yet another thing to replace in the future as your brewing journey will bring with it a wealth of rewarding, and some not-so rewarding such as discovering how oxygen-exposure damages your beer.
Hope I covered it OK. Keep asking when details aren't all that clear.

 

[Closet Fermenter]

Appreciate the answer ! It does raise a few more questions for me though as im completely new to this.

1. Lets say im carbing at 16 psi and i want to pour a pint from keg 2 at 12 psi, am i ok to change the pressure whenever needed ?
2. I got much slower at drinking beer now due to kidney stones (urologist says its uric acid from the yeast, main reason i want to keg to get the beer filtered from yeast) so lets say the keg is finished carbing, can it sit in the kegerator for weeks before tapped ? Or will it loose co2 or go bad ?
3. If you close off the valve for a day or two and open again when you want a beer, do you need to wait a certain time or can you pour straight away ?

Once your beer has equalized with the set pressure, you can disconnect it, and as long as you have no leaks, it should remain carbonated. At this point, it’s just a 5 gallon bottle sitting in the fridge with the cap still on it!

Once my kegs are carbonated, I’ll shut off the valve and leave it off until I draw another mug full. I can leave the valve open if there’s a chance I may draw another, or just turn it on/off each time. If the keg is sealed, nothing should change. If it’s not sealed, and the valve is on, it’s either going to pump out all my beer, drain my CO₂ tank, or both. If the valve is off and it leaks, I won’t lose a tank of gas. If it’s just a gas leak, I can recarbonate if necessary. If it’s a leak on the beer post or tap, maybe I won’t lose it all my beer if the pressure equalizes before the keg is empty.

 

[whoaru99]

CO2 tank pressure is around 900psi at 20C/68F.

2000psi tank pressure would be for gasses like oxygen, nitrogen, argon.

 

[Broken Crow]

CO2 tank pressure is around 900psi at 20C/68F.

2000psi tank pressure would be for gasses like oxygen, nitrogen, argon.

Thanks! I always mess up when I cite numbers off the top of my dysfunctional head.

 

[day_trippr]

In "comfortable for humans" environments (say below 80°F) cylinder pressure should remain under 1000 psi.
Left in a car, otoh, or even outdoors in the sun, things can go pear shaped in a hurry...

Cheers!

 

[Clint Yeastwood]

That thing is bizarre. I don't see any check valves, and the fittings don't look like they will take them.

I bought a 4-body secondary C.M. Becker regulator from Keg Outlet, and once I replaced a defective gauge, it worked very well.

I have MFL outputs, so attaching EVAbarrier was easy.

 

[wsmith1625]

I can't vouch for the quality of this regular, although I do like Kegland products. It seems a lot of concern is that this unit doesn't have shut offs or check valves. If you decide to purchase it, you can easily add them.

Inline shut-off valve
https://www.morebeer.com/products/duotight-pushin-fitting-8-mm-516-ball-valve.html

Inline check valve
https://www.morebeer.com/products/d...lZu1KinEKggfImLI2fMfswSHaj5qZdmRoCMGoQAvD_BwE

I would add the shutoff valves close to the regular and the check valves close to your quick disconnects.

Or just get a TapRite dual body regulator that has it out of the box. You'll have to find a UK seller.

https://www.kegconnection.com/taprite-beer-co2-dual-body-regulator/

 

[day_trippr]

fwiw, I've had that Taprite dual body primary with MFL shut-offs and integrated check valves for a decade and it is my favorite of my multiple regulators. Highly recommended...

Cheers!

 

[Denis2121]

I'm pretty bad at trying to explain things so I went to youtube to find a video I could post... all the ones I saw were pretty bad and didn't include important details that you're asking about and some of them were full of nonsensical myths and misinformation, so...
To start with; If it's going to be weeks between kegs, don't bother with higher pressure to force-carb....after a couple weeks at serving pressure, the carbing keg will have acheived equilibrium...in any event, the difference between 12-16psi is negligable in the short-term and over time will just lead to over-carbed beer. If you want to quickly force-carb, you crank the pressure up to double or higher and wait 24-48 hours before cranking it down.
The great thing about this site is that it is populated with folk more experienced (and with better functioning brains) than I, so if I make any inaccurate or contentious claims, I will be called out for you to read. (And I will benefit myself by being corrected.)
The CO2 tank has in the neighborhood of 20000psi. The regulator that attaches to the tank and is equiped to cope with that large pressure is the Primary regulator. The most common Primary regulator has a single body, the second most common has 2 bodies in which the feed from the tank is simply passed through to next and are popular with folk in your position that only require 2 seperate pressures. There can be as many bodies as you like, daisy-chained one to the next, but it does make the tank very top-heavy and risky. In setups where multiple different pressures are needed, Secondary regulators are attached by the same gas-line that you would feed to a keg....Secondary regulators are not made to accept the 1000's psi as an input, and again; You can daisy-chain as many as you like. I just stole this photo from the Brulosophy site to illustrate:
View attachment 842437
Those are Taprite regulators in the picture...They differentiate primaries and secondaries by making Primary knobs red, and Secondaries that sort of 'gold'.
If it helps: My personal criteria for the ideal Homebrewer Primary gauge is that 1/ it have a 0-30psi low-side gauge (though most are 0-60)....the greater the range the output gauge extends to, the more difficult it becomes to adjust to the exact pressure you want. 2/ It has an on/off valve with integrated check-valve ...most available regulators have this. 3/ 1/4" MFL output..most regulators, including my Taprites have a barb which makes it annoying to connect EVABarrier line to.
Another area you may wish to pay attention to since you're just beginning your kegging journey: Use EVABarrier!!! I'll let you read about it in other threads, that include connection to barb solutions. But if you don't start with O2-excluding gas line, that'll be yet another thing to replace in the future as your brewing journey will bring with it a wealth of rewarding, and some not-so rewarding such as discovering how oxygen-exposure damages your beer.
Hope I covered it OK. Keep asking when details aren't all that clear.

That explains so much more than i could find during hours of research so thank you !

Just one more thing, i was under the impression that if i had the right hose length, temperature and psi set, no matter how long in the keg it would not overcarb ?

 

[Peebee]

... Im hoping to start kegging soon and was thinking about getting this regulator:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/15456228...oUcotHji2IIu9IPs39_UaUCe2qxqMPohoCBRUQAvD_BwE ...

I think the technical reasons to not go that way have been covered. So, I'll hammer in a different nail to this coffin ...

That's an outrageous price for a regulator. Even if it does have two outputs. And buying it from the UK will probably mean the nut will be for attaching to UK CO2 bottles which may cause problems when it home in ... ah, Ireland, not America! But I'm not sure Ireland use our screwy (UK) cylinder threads either (it's a mishmash of metric and British "Imperial" size designations).

I've a gas "primer" on the UK "sister" site: https://www.thehomebrewforum.co.uk/threads/co2-management-primer.67424/. Might be some help?

 

[wsmith1625]

That explains so much more than i could find during hours of research so thank you !

Just one more thing, i was under the impression that if i had the right hose length, temperature and psi set, no matter how long in the keg it would not overcarb ?

That's correct, with the correct temperature and psi, you will not overcarb your beer. Use a carbonation chart to figure the ideal psi based off the temperature and style of the beer. Hose length does not impact the carbonation levels in your beer. Hose length is used to calculate the pressure in beer lines at the tap when you dispense your beer. Too much or too little pressure at the tap will have you pouring nothing but foam.

co2 volumes chart
https://www.kegoutlet.com/keg-carbonation-chart.html

Keg Line Length Balancing
https://beersmith.com/blog/2011/07/14/keg-line-length-balancing-the-science-of-draft-beer/

 

[Broken Crow]

Inline shut-off valve
https://www.morebeer.com/products/duotight-pushin-fitting-8-mm-516-ball-valve.html

@Kickass just did exactly that. https://www.homebrewtalk.com/threads/teflon-on-co2-outpost.731370/
I'm still going back and forth between wether to just swag 1/4" EVABarrier over my Taprite barb, or shell out for the genuine fitting: https://www.taprite.com/6600ca-6600ca

Or just get a TapRite dual body regulator that has it out of the box. You'll have to find a UK seller.

https://www.kegconnection.com/taprite-beer-co2-dual-body-regulator/

fwiw, I've had that Taprite dual body primary with MFL shut-offs and integrated check valves for a decade and it is my favorite of my multiple regulators. Highly recommended...

Cheers!

That is the exact regulator I wanted to buy when I began, but the only ones I could find in Canada had barbs instead of MFL's and it cost nearly $200... I made a mistake and learned from it: There was a sale on a cheap import regulator for $50 and I jumped on it.... it is now in my scrap collection, having been used to unreliably serve the first few kegs I ever filled. I replaced it with a Taprite as I should have done in the beginning.
@Denis2121 ; As you're just embarking on kegging, you'll probably also be buying at least one shank and faucet...Get Stainless Steel rather than the cheap plated chrome brass, and if you do go the Duotight/EVABarrier route (highly recommended) you'll want the appropriate shank with a push-on fitting instead of a barb. All the bits you need are made by @KegLand so I'll include the link to thier own site in Australia...they have distributors everywhere: https://www.kegland.com.au/collections/taps-handles-shanks-tap-accessories

 

[Denis2121]

@Kickass just did exactly that. https://www.homebrewtalk.com/threads/teflon-on-co2-outpost.731370/
I'm still going back and forth between wether to just swag 1/4" EVABarrier over my Taprite barb, or shell out for the genuine fitting: https://www.taprite.com/6600ca-6600ca


That is the exact regulator I wanted to buy when I began, but the only ones I could find in Canada had barbs instead of MFL's and it cost nearly $200... I made a mistake and learned from it: There was a sale on a cheap import regulator for $50 and I jumped on it.... it is now in my scrap collection, having been used to unreliably serve the first few kegs I ever filled. I replaced it with a Taprite as I should have done in the beginning.
@Denis2121 ; As you're just embarking on kegging, you'll probably also be buying at least one shank and faucet...Get Stainless Steel rather than the cheap plated chrome brass, and if you do go the Duotight/EVABarrier route (highly recommended) you'll want the appropriate shank with a push-on fitting instead of a barb. All the bits you need are made by @KegLand so I'll include the link to thier own site in Australia...they have distributors everywhere: https://www.kegland.com.au/collections/taps-handles-shanks-tap-accessories

Thank you ! Although I dnt see the choice to ship to Ireland however i got my shopping list pretty much picked out now. Another question though, if the regulator has a 7mm barb, will i be able to attach 8mm duotight on it ?

 

[Broken Crow]

Thank you ! Although I dnt see the choice to ship to Ireland however i got my shopping list pretty much picked out now. Another question though, if the regulator has a 7mm barb, will i be able to attach 8mm duotight on it ?

Can you post links to the parts? I'm used to regulator barbs being 5/16", 3/8" and 1/4" and duotight fittings can occasionally be stuck on to barbs as I've seen @shoengine do; https://www.homebrewtalk.com/threads/perlick-630ss-with-duotight-connection.730987/#post-10338829
Usually (and more desirably) with a regulator barb, one will install a hose of the same or slightly smaller diameter to the barb.
I was wondering if you were meaning a duotight fitting for 8mm Outer Diameter EVABarrier, or simply shoving the EVABarrier over the barb..It made me wonder how easy that would be so I just went to my cluttered bench and found a 7mm barb and a piece of 8mm OD/ 5mm ID EVABarrier ( https://www.kegland.com.au/products...er-line-gas-line?_pos=1&_psq=EVA&_ss=e&_v=1.0 ) and without bothering to heat it, I used some brute force to swag it with a pair of needlnose pliers I had sitting on the bench and force it on to the barb..and it worked easier than I expected:

The 5mm ID EVABarrier is a popular choice for gas line, so if your chosen regulator does have a 7mm barb, all you need to find the size for is the oetiker clamp to fasten it down. I'll go look through the clamps I have to see if I can size one up, but my selection is pretty limited...maybe someone else can weigh in.

 

[Denis2121]

Can you post links to the parts? I'm used to regulator barbs being 5/16", 3/8" and 1/4" and duotight fittings can occasionally be stuck on to barbs as I've seen @shoengine do; https://www.homebrewtalk.com/threads/perlick-630ss-with-duotight-connection.730987/#post-10338829
Usually (and more desirably) with a regulator barb, one will install a hose of the same or slightly smaller diameter to the barb.
I was wondering if you were meaning a duotight fitting for 8mm Outer Diameter EVABarrier, or simply shoving the EVABarrier over the barb..It made me wonder how easy that would be so I just went to my cluttered bench and found a 7mm barb and a piece of 8mm OD/ 5mm ID EVABarrier ( https://www.kegland.com.au/products...er-line-gas-line?_pos=1&_psq=EVA&_ss=e&_v=1.0 ) and without bothering to heat it, I used some brute force to swag it with a pair of needlnose pliers I had sitting on the bench and force it on to the barb..and it worked easier than I expected:
View attachment 842651
The 5mm ID EVABarrier is a popular choice for gas line, so if your chosen regulator does have a 7mm barb, all you need to find the size for is the oetiker clamp to fasten it down. I'll go look through the clamps I have to see if I can size one up, but my selection is pretty limited...maybe someone else can weigh in.

Got ya !

Eva
https://www.geterbrewed.com/eva-barrier-tubing-per-metre-8mm/

Regulator & Barb (The one you recommended is not on sites that ship to IE, neither will amazon)
https://www.geterbrewed.com/co2-regulator-3-bar-with-2-outputs?search=regulator
https://www.geterbrewed.com/hose-fitting-7mm-for-co2-regulator?search=regulator

Duotight
https://www.geterbrewed.com/duotight-threaded-1-4-8-mm-516/

Im also not sure but I assume I should be able to fit this FC tap
https://www.geterbrewed.com/nukatap-draft-tap-fc?search=nukatap

On to this shank
https://brewkegtap.co.uk/products/copy-of-4-stainless-steel-shank

On this tower
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Stainless-...=1708741055&sprefix=beer+towe,aps,132&sr=8-12

 

[Broken Crow]

The duotight adapter you linked to is for attaching to 1/4" MFL fittings such as MFL-out regulators or ball-lock disconnects:
https://www.geterbrewed.com/ball-lock-disconnect-1-4-mfl-gas/
https://www.geterbrewed.com/ball-lock-disconnect-1-4-mfl-liquid/
Alternatively you can skip the adapter and use the Duotight disconnects;
https://www.geterbrewed.com/duotight-ball-lock-disconnect-liquid-blackyellow-8mm-5-16/
https://www.geterbrewed.com/duotight-ball-lock-disconnect-gas-greyred-8mm-5-16/
...For liquid; go with 4mm ID line (it won't need to be as long to avoid foaming issues):
https://brewkegtap.co.uk/collection...tors/products/5-16-od-clear-natural-beer-line
..By using the correct line length and diameter for a balanced system, flow-control should be unecessary and you can save a bit by using a regular tap:
https://brewkegtap.co.uk/collections/taps/products/nukatap-faucet-stainless-steel-complete-1
The shank you linked to is not ideal for installing in a tower where space is limited. For that, given you are using duotight and EVABarrier, you'll want the duotight 6.35mm>8mm adapter;
https://www.geterbrewed.com/duotight-straight-reducer-8-mm-to-6.5mm/
to plug directly into a duotight tower shank:
https://brewkegtap.co.uk/collections/taps/products/tower-shank-with-push-fit-elbow
(^the dealer hasn't specified wether or not that shank is SS..you may wish to check)
..you may also want to get a proper shank wrench while you're ordering bits as you might be able to get by with some other tool when installing the shank, but it'll be really aggrivating.
This thread may not really apply to you, but I included some pics in it so you can get some idea of how fiddley it can be to install a tower shank..and the one in the picture is much larger than the standard ones; https://www.homebrewtalk.com/thread...mm-monotight-connector-duotight-shank.730515/

 

[Denis2121]

The duotight adapter you linked to is for attaching to 1/4" MFL fittings such as MFL-out regulators or ball-lock disconnects:
https://www.geterbrewed.com/ball-lock-disconnect-1-4-mfl-gas/
https://www.geterbrewed.com/ball-lock-disconnect-1-4-mfl-liquid/
Alternatively you can skip the adapter and use the Duotight disconnects;
https://www.geterbrewed.com/duotight-ball-lock-disconnect-liquid-blackyellow-8mm-5-16/
https://www.geterbrewed.com/duotight-ball-lock-disconnect-gas-greyred-8mm-5-16/
...For liquid; go with 4mm ID line (it won't need to be as long to avoid foaming issues):
https://brewkegtap.co.uk/collection...tors/products/5-16-od-clear-natural-beer-line
..By using the correct line length and diameter for a balanced system, flow-control should be unecessary and you can save a bit by using a regular tap:
https://brewkegtap.co.uk/collections/taps/products/nukatap-faucet-stainless-steel-complete-1
The shank you linked to is not ideal for installing in a tower where space is limited. For that, given you are using duotight and EVABarrier, you'll want the duotight 6.35mm>8mm adapter;
https://www.geterbrewed.com/duotight-straight-reducer-8-mm-to-6.5mm/
to plug directly into a duotight tower shank:
https://brewkegtap.co.uk/collections/taps/products/tower-shank-with-push-fit-elbow
(^the dealer hasn't specified wether or not that shank is SS..you may wish to check)
..you may also want to get a proper shank wrench while you're ordering bits as you might be able to get by with some other tool when installing the shank, but it'll be really aggrivating.
This thread may not really apply to you, but I included some pics in it so you can get some idea of how fiddley it can be to install a tower shank..and the one in the picture is much larger than the standard ones; https://www.homebrewtalk.com/thread...mm-monotight-connector-duotight-shank.730515/

Well sir, i owe you a beer. Really appreciate all the help on this. There is more parts and details to this than i ever thought ! I never even thought about the shank wrench.

 

[Broken Crow]

A couple more things come to mind... I noticed one of the dealers you linked to carries John Guest fittings.. Though I haven't used them myself, I know from reliable accounts on this site that they are generally deemed to be more 'high-end' and less prone to failures. One particular item I saw on the John Guest page is the retaining clips which will also fit on duotights and I most highly recommend buying enough of them to use on every duotight fitting as an extra safety measure, as shifting lines around without the clips can sometimes lead to leaks:
https://www.geterbrewed.com/38"-john-guest-locking-clip/
Another option to consider that may or may not be appropriate to your location; Here in Canada, I've ordered frequently from Aliexpress... Including from Kegland's official Ali-store:
https://www.aliexpress.com/store/11...pHead_2005490381764.0&sortType=bestmatch_sort
Prices seem to vary wildly from country to country and can change dramtically from one day to the next, but sometimes you can score as I did when I bought a nice 3-tap brushed stainless tower for about $30, shipping included... the very next day it listed for about $80 + $26 shipping...and shipping times are terribly slow, but hey; a deal is a deal. As it is, amazon links from other countries frequently get redirected so I haven't been able to see the specific tower you linked to, but as long as it's a standard type you should be on solid ground. One thought though; You had mentioned a converted fridge for your kegerator..if it has the capacity to hold more than one keg, you may want to buy a tower with more holes for future expansion...you can just tape some insulating foam inside the extra shank-holes until you have the resources and need to populate them.

 

[Broken Crow]

Oh! It just occurred to me: Keg Lube! If you don't have any yet, buy some...it doesn't need to be a large tube or tub as a small one is probably the only one you'll need in this life; a little tiny bit goes a long-long way, and if you're swaging EVABarrier over a regulator barb it really helps. ...another optional (but recommended if you're not comfortable fudging it) tool is a swaging tool such as the one @day_trippr posted in the above mentioned thread: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/threads/perlick-630ss-with-duotight-connection.730987/#post-10338794 (I used a tapered punch myself, but I've been fitting hoses and tubes that way since I was kid and a proper swaging tool really does help)
Also: Let me repeat what I said in my first post: Take your time! Sketch everything out, list all the parts and wait for a few others to weigh in here. I should mention I have a brain injury and frequently don't notice things that should be totally obvious or can be more appropriately accomplished... also, I lose details and as a thread get longer, I forget important details or even how the thread began.
We'll just keep posting on here and bumping this thread back to the top, giving more members a chance to see it and weigh in with advice or suggestions that may be more appropriate to your needs or more importantly to point out any clear mistakes or omissions I might have made.

 

[wsmith1625]

Great info from @Broken Crow. I would suggest a duotight fitting on the regulator instead of a barb. It looks like the shutoffs valves on the unit you selected are beer thread, so this should convert it to a push fitting.

https://www.morebeer.com/products/d...D-SilU-oR3JDoYOcfWMpZslz4qc7qpiBoCGSsQAvD_BwE

 

[Broken Crow]

Great info from @Broken Crow. I would suggest a duotight fitting on the regulator instead of a barb. It looks like the shutoffs valves on the unit you selected are beer thread, so this should convert it to a push fitting.

https://www.morebeer.com/products/d...D-SilU-oR3JDoYOcfWMpZslz4qc7qpiBoCGSsQAvD_BwE

That would be ideal Certainly easier than swaging to a barb, but I don't think it's 5/8" 'Beer Thread' is 5/8" isn't it?..I haven't used it enough to be sure. I looked up the manufacturer and on their page for that regulator, I'm not sure if they're referring to the output thread as: "With stopcock ¾“" https://www.hiwi.de/produkte/bierzapfen.html
I found another seller in Germany; https://gase-kaufen.de/druckmindere...er-fuer-co2-mehrwegflasche-4260509845823.html
And it seems to say it's 3/4" :"Ausgang mit Absperrhahn (Kugelhahn), Standardgewinde G 3/4" (Außengewinde)" which Duck translates for me as: "Outlet with shut-off valve (ball valve), standard thread G 3/4" (male thread)"
..I've looked everywhere and can only find 3/4">9.5mm or 6.35mm... Can't find any for 8mm.
I could be wrong.