New to Kegging - Poppet Question

[gcdowd]

Ok, I just scored a few FREE kegs from a buddy at work who no longer homebrews (good for me though). Anyway, needless to say I've been searching like crazy about kegging and watching all kinds of kegging vids. I think I pretty much have the hang of it but I have a question about the poppets. All the vids I've seen, the poppets come right out of the socket thing. I thought I was missing poppets because i didn't see any come out. Looking more closely, it looks like there are poppets in there but they are wedged in. Is this normal for some kegs? It's a ball lock keg (may have been converted I don't know). If so, how would I get them out. I'm currently in process of replacing all the parts I can, mostly because I don't know the history of the kegs and would rather be safe than sorry. Anyway, I don't know much about the differences in poppets so any help is appreciated. If pics are required, I am more than willing to post some. Thanks!

 

[jasonkeithscott]

I acquired a pin lock keg with the same issue. With new-to-me used kegs, I do a full break down, cleaning and o-ring lube/replacement. This particular keg only had the poppet on the liquid side configured like this. I was able to gently pull on each poppet leg with a metal mechanic's pick and extract the poppet whole. I think this may happen if the poppet legs are flared out more than usual.

 

[gcdowd]

So you think I can pull them out and replace them? What type are they? Will the universal poppets work?

 

[E-Mursed]

There are about a half dozen different keg designs out there and just as many different poppet types. You have a style that actually is crimped into the post intentionally. I personally don't care for it, but it is functional.

I have put universal poppets in all of my kegs to make them easier to clean, but more so to standardize my equipment. I recommend that you do the same.

 

[Yooper]

I've only seen that once- I inherited a Challenger keg, and the poppits do not seem to want to come out like the others. Maybe they ARE removeable, but I cleaned the best I could and didn't remove them. I've only used that keg once, but if it gets yucky I may have to see if I can unseat the poppits and take them out. The cornelius kegs I have are not wedged in there like that, and they just slide out.

 

[remthewanderer]

I'm I the process of testing the universal poppets because I am tired of so many different types of poppets.

 

[gcdowd]

Hmmm...maybe I'll leave them in for now and if I get any nasties in my beer, I'll know where to start.

 

[Jbear]

I also have a couple kegs where the poppets don't easily come out. I simply take the post off and boil the post/poppet together and have not had any infections.

 

[gcdowd]

I also have a couple kegs where the poppets don't easily come out. I simply take the post off and boil the post/poppet together and have not had any infections.

Great idea. I was just gonna soak in oxiclean but boiling will probably be better.

 

[wolfman_48442]

Most of them you should be able to remove just by taking the post off the keg, placing it on a table or similar flat surface, and then installing the quick disconnect on the post. A really stubborn one might need an awl or small punch.

To re-install, many will seat themselves just from the pressure of the dip-tube, or you can use a small deep well socket to press it back in, just until it 'clicks' and seats itself.

The first one may seem kind of scary, thinking you're gonna break something. After that, no biggie.

 

[gcdowd]

Most of them you should be able to remove just by taking the post off the keg, placing it on a table or similar flat surface, and then installing the quick disconnect on the post. A really stubborn one might need an awl or small punch.

To re-install, many will seat themselves just from the pressure of the dip-tube, or you can use a small deep well socket to press it back in, just until it 'clicks' and seats itself.

The first one may seem kind of scary, thinking you're gonna break something. After that, no biggie.

Just tried that. Poppet did not move.

 

[Dok]

I'm I the process of testing the universal poppets because I am tired of so many different types of poppets.

The universals are the way to go.

 

[milldoggy]

I had a few like this, I used a screwdriver and pushed the living daylights out of it and the came out

 

[gcdowd]

Thanks all for the advice. On a separate note, I've read that the gas and beer posts are not interchangeable. Both of mine look identical. Is there really a difference?

 

[JuanMoore]

Thanks all for the advice. On a separate note, I've read that the gas and beer posts are not interchangeable. Both of mine look identical. Is there really a difference?

Yes, there really is a difference. You'll realize it the first time you accidentally get the wrong QD stuck on the wrong post. If you got them mixed up and don't remember which is which, the gas post should have some sort of notches near the base.

 

[gcdowd]

Ok, good to know, thanks.

 

[mtg4772]

I just bought a gas-in post; well the LHBS didn't know if the gas-in and liquid out were interchangeable or not so he sold me what he thought would do the job.

So when I connect the quick connect/disconnect gas-in to the post it is an SOB to connect and an SOB to disconnect. Do you think the LHBS sold me a liquid out for the gas-in? I don't remember seeing any notches near the base.

I'll check this when I get home.

 

[milldoggy]

Are there notches on the part where you would put a wrench?

 

[wolfman_48442]

I just bought a gas-in post; well the LHBS didn't know if the gas-in and liquid out were interchangeable or not so he sold me what he thought would do the job.

So when I connect the quick connect/disconnect gas-in to the post it is an SOB to connect and an SOB to disconnect. Do you think the LHBS sold me a liquid out for the gas-in? I don't remember seeing any notches near the base.

I'll check this when I get home.

Hopefully you got the correct post!
Make sure the o-ring has a bit of keg lube on it. Just a thin film is plenty. Dry o-rings can make it a PITA to connect and disconnect a QD.

 

[mtg4772]

Are there notches on the part where you would put a wrench?

Yeah man, now I know what you mean about the notches. The wrench-on part looks more like a star or a sunburst rather than a typical bolt part that is wrenched on.

I was sold a liquid-out for a gas-in. F'in A!

So can I take the poppet out of my newly purchased liquid-out and put it in my old gas-in post? Or are the poppets specific to liquid-out and gas-in?

 

[mtg4772]

The right side that looks like a star is gas-in. the left is liquid-out?

 

[mtg4772]

I have one more question: What is the difference between a pin lock and a ball locking keg. I've looked up images of both and they look the same to me.

(OP: Thanks for letting me piggyback on this thread rather than starting a whole new thread. Reading your question helped me solved some of my issues, too. Have a good one.)

 

[JuanMoore]

Between all of the manufacturers and vintages, there are a lot of styles of post, but the gas posts usually either have notches in the base or are 12 pointed. It looks from the picture like you have a gas post on the right, and as long as there aren't any notches on the post on the left, it should be a liquid post. As mentioned, a dry o-ring can make it tough to get the QD's on and off.

Pin lock kegs are slightly shorter and wider than ball lock kegs. They also usually have a one time use safety relief valve in the lid instead of the ball lock style that can be manually operated. Pin lock posts have pins in the sides of them. There are channels in the pin lock QD's that correspond to the pin locations so the QD can push on and then twist to secure. The nice thing about pin locks is that you can't put the wrong QD on the wrong post, since the gas has 2 pins and the liquid has 3.

A lot of the parts are interchangeable between keg types, so you can find either type of lid or type of post on either type of keg body. There are a lot of vendors selling "converted pin lock kegs", which are just pin lock kegs with ball lock posts on them. Here's what the pin lock posts and QD's look like-

 

[mtg4772]

Thanks

 

[gcdowd]

Why you gotta hijack my thread?

I kid, I kid

 

[milldoggy]

Yeah man, now I know what you mean about the notches. The wrench-on part looks more like a star or a sunburst rather than a typical bolt part that is wrenched on.

I was sold a liquid-out for a gas-in. F'in A!

So can I take the poppet out of my newly purchased liquid-out and put it in my old gas-in post? Or are the poppets specific to liquid-out and gas-in?

Actually, there should be horizental notches even in that. I will grab a pic in the am, I have a few spares laying around

 

[mtg4772]

Yeah, there are notches on the notches too. Like tiny grooves, almost braided or crossed

 

[mtg4772]

Why you gotta hijack my thread?

I kid, I kid

Sorry dude, but the question u asked was dead on to the problems I'm trying to fix. Thanks.

 

[gcdowd]

No problem man. The more you know....

 

[milldoggy]

Yeah, there are notches on the notches too. Like tiny grooves, almost braided or crossed

Then that is a gas post. I have star liquid post, the star does not mean gas. The horizental notches mean gas

 

[mtg4772]

Then that is a gas post. I have star liquid post, the star does not mean gas. The horizental notches mean gas

Very good to know. Thanks. And thanks again to original poster.

 

[lylo]

Google "corny gas in gas out posts"" images" and all will be clear.

 

[gcdowd]

Another question I have is about force carbing. Might as well ask here and not start a new thread. Generally speaking, when you force carb and are at the point where you are going to dial the pressure back down to serving pressure, do you need to purge the headspace? Or is it ok to just dial down the pressure and let it equalize.

 

[mdfairbairn]

i had a few like this, i used a screwdriver and pushed the living daylights out of it and the came out

+1

 

[milldoggy]

Another question I have is about force carbing. Might as well ask here and not start a new thread. Generally speaking, when you force carb and are at the point where you are going to dial the pressure back down to serving pressure, do you need to purge the headspace? Or is it ok to just dial down the pressure and let it equalize.

If I shake and carb warm, I take the gas off and chill. Once chill I bleed the headspace and attach the gas

If I set it at 20 and wait a week warm, I chill and just attach gas, no bleeding. Just be careful if your keg is really full, the pressure in the keg is greater than in the hose, they will equilize, which mean beer might go in your line, so to be safe, it is never a bad thing to purge the keg and let you server pressue charge it.

 

[smellie_hippie]

Yes, there really is a difference. You'll realize it the first time you accidentally get the wrong QD stuck on the wrong post.

So just to chime in here... if you HAVE gone and done the unthinkable, and put the wrong QD on the post, what the best way to get the thing off? I am afraid to apply any tool for fear of breaking the thing or damaging any other piece.

Put on gloves and just pull? Something underneath for leverage?

 

[skibumdc]

I have put universal poppets in all of my kegs to make them easier to clean, but more so to standardize my equipment. I recommend that you do the same.

:rockin:
Me as well. I started down the route with my used kegs replacing specific poppet valves and it's was a PITA.
Tested with 1 set of the universal poppets and NEVER looked back.

 

[JuanMoore]

So just to chime in here... if you HAVE gone and done the unthinkable, and put the wrong QD on the post, what the best way to get the thing off? I am afraid to apply any tool for fear of breaking the thing or damaging any other piece.

Put on gloves and just pull? Something underneath for leverage?

The one and only time I did it, I simply pulled up, hard. You night try to take the QD apart, and see if it comes off easier that way.