New take on dimpling, silver solder bulkheads?

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Bobby_M

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I'm getting into a habit of spilling info on my prototypes way before I'm ready for mass production. I figure now is the better time for feedback than ever so why not?

Basically the story is that people that refuse to use weldless anything but can't find a competent TIG welding professional only have silver soldering as a last resort. The typical process involves making a dimpling tool, basically a tapered mandrel and backing die, to flare out the holes where fittings will be installed. This helps add surface area and physical strength. Commercially available tooling for this process is relatively rare and expensive so everyone has been making the tool from various off the shelf pipe fittings (concentric butt weld reducing couplings) and other makeshift objects.

Long story short, here's what I'm working on. A single fitting that has 1/2" male NPT threads on one side and Female threads on the back. It has a machined in taper on the fitting itself so it can act as its own flaring mandrel as it's pulled through a 13/16" hole. That way you can grab any number of bulkhead fittings and buy or rent the die and pulling bolt hardware. Let's say the tool costs $12 and if you send it back, you get a refund in store credit.

Why male threads on the outside? You thread a ball valve on anyway and this takes away the need for a close or hex nipple. One less place to leak.

I don't have a picture handy, but the back of the fittings shown in the two pictures is already soldered to the pot. There's a thin shoulder on the fitting to keep it from being pulled all the way through and even provide additional contact area for solder above and beyond the flare in the vessel wall. This shoulder only sticks into the pot by about 1/8".

Video coming...

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Yes indeed. Why the but? It's not that hard to do. Video coming.
Yeah, I'm probably thinking of the difficulty welding inside at the bottom inside of a pot. I suppose with a flame, you'd wrap the solder inside the stop on the inside and heat from the outside?
 
I like this a lot! So far all of the weldless bulkheads I got from you are working fine but I would start replacing them with these a couple at a time. Very cool.
 
Ok, I want a set of these!! :eek:nestar::eek:nestar::eek:nestar:

Plese let us know when you plan to have them available. I just ordered new pots for my setup and I'd rather silver solder my fittings in than use the o-ring method.

As said before, this looks like a very elegant solution.
 
Awesome idea, and the video is great! I would like to see video of the actual soldering operation. Anxious for these to become available!
 
Awesome idea, and the video is great! I would like to see video of the actual soldering operation. Anxious for these to become available!

At the 6:21 mark, that's pretty much how I do it. I just did a jump cut because I was trying to film it with my phone in one hand and torch in the other and didn't keep it framed well. I wrapped two rings of solder around that fitting and just heated until it flowed well into the valley.
 
I've dimpled and soldered dozens of couplers in the last few years. I think it's an awesome solution for the homebrew level.

These are really cool and I'm sure I'll be trying them out next time I need a fitting in something. It is nice that it essentially eliminates the need for 1 nipple. You also don't have to worry so much about going too far with the reducer. Mine is eeeever so slightly larger than couplers, so I have to know where to stop. Pretty cool to dimple and set it in one step.

I only see 2 downsides to this model, which are pretty pathetic. I can't wait to try one.

First, with that shoulder at the back it would be difficult to use as bottom drains. Gonna leave some liquid in the kettle. A non-shouldered version might be a cool (slower selling) option. But when the solder flows under that thing, wow, that's some surface area. As if these needed to be any stronger.

I also actually like threading stuff on via a nipple. This essentially gives you 2 threads to turn in order to get stuff lined up how you want it. Always sucks to get 90* past where you want a fitting and it gets tight. It's another anxious 270* for sure!

Bobby, you ever consider putting together a threaded rod and die kit? It was a pain to piece mine together from several sources when I first built it. I bet if you offered one it would sell pretty well.

I also noticed in the video your die may have had a little trouble staying centered. I soldered the rear washer to the back of the die to keep things centered. Works like a charm!
 
My original spec was for a welded washer and it showed up without it. Communication failure. The issue I had was that all my washers were for a 9/16 bolt but when the fittings showed up, I couldn't find a 9/16 and used 1/2". I will definitely be offering the bolt and die along with the pull in fittings. I've seriously considered a low cost rental system on them as well but they may be so inexpensive that returning it wouldn't make sense.
 
Honestly at that diameter, I think the backing die would have to had a bit of a radius cut into the functional side. Between machining a tapered mandrel and the radiused die, I think our radius faced solderable triclover flange is the way to go.
 
My new pots came in this weekend, ready to purchase all my bulkhead fittings and have a couple of questions;

Do you have an ETA for these fittings or should I just go with your current fittings? (I won't be brew ready for a month at least so I can wait if needed).

Drill the holes with a step bit or do they make a knockout punch the correct size for your fittings? (what should your hole size be?)
 
Bobby,

How wold this work to attach my HERMS coil in the HLT?

I it 50 foot of 1/2 SS that currently uses a compression fitting and nipple set up to attach the valve on the outside.

My issues is that while there is no leak on the inside of the pot, I have a small leak, at temp, on the outside and I can not seem to get it to stop no matter what I do.

T
 
My new pots came in this weekend, ready to purchase all my bulkhead fittings and have a couple of questions;

Do you have an ETA for these fittings or should I just go with your current fittings? (I won't be brew ready for a month at least so I can wait if needed).

Drill the holes with a step bit or do they make a knockout punch the correct size for your fittings? (what should your hole size be?)

The hole size should be 13/16" exactly. Smaller and the threads won't fit through. Larger and you won't get much flare area.

I'm a few weeks away on these.
 
The hole size should be 13/16" exactly. Smaller and the threads won't fit through. Larger and you won't get much flare area.

I'm a few weeks away on these.

Looks like others have used THESE to punch the holes based on the reviews, would you think it would work?
 
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Bobby,

How wold this work to attach my HERMS coil in the HLT?

I it 50 foot of 1/2 SS that currently uses a compression fitting and nipple set up to attach the valve on the outside.

My issues is that while there is no leak on the inside of the pot, I have a small leak, at temp, on the outside and I can not seem to get it to stop no matter what I do.

T

The way I'd see it done is to solder these in and then thread compression fittings on inside. Of course, there's always the possibility to make a similar fitting shape directly into the compression fitting.
 
Should be in this week but I have to do some testing on the full production units to be sure they're good to go. I also have some of the die tool side coming but also need to test them and get some bolts. The pull in fitting itself is going to be around $7 if my figuring is right.
 
Great!

I'll keep an eye on the site for them. I have quite a few other things I need and have been waiting for these to place my order.

Looking forward to trying them.

Do you suggest getting an extra and trying to solder one on a cheap pot before I commit my good pots to this or is the process simple enough not to worry about it?
 
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