Silver Soldered Pull-Through - Alignment & Rotating Dip Tube

[Brewer Mike]

Hi Folks. I'm new here. I did some searching, but didn't see anything addressing this. I apologize if it's been covered.

I want to do the silver soldered pull-through bulkhead thing. First, does anybody have any tips on alignment so that a ball valve is correctly oriented. I could put the ball valve on the bulkhead and mark the orientation before pulling it through. Is there a better way?

Second, I'd like to have a rotating/adjustable dip tube (1/2") on the inside. I don't see one on brewhardware.com has anyone solved this?

Thanks,
Mike

 

[bruce_the_loon]

Hi Brewer Mike, welcome to the forum.

If you are going to do the pull-through and are concerned about the orientation, then I'd suggest going for a 1.5" tri-clamp bulkhead which allows you to set the orientation when you attach the equipment. BrewHardware has the bulkheads and Bobby_M developed a pull-through tool that draws the bulkhead into place as part of the dimpling process to reduce the need for fighting it.

1.5" tri-clamp 5/8" ID combo ball valve and dip tube. Ball Valve (EZ Clean) with 1.5'' TC ports and 5/8 Diptube
1.5" tri-clamp rotating racking arm. One of many on Google. Buy a Racking Arm (for Non-Jacketed Fermenters) | Stout Tanks & Kettles Brew Equipment

I've got one very similar to the Conical Fermenter site one, the nice thing I find is that the seal is done by the two o-rings and by only having to release the inner clamp to rotate it, there is no chance of leakage. You will need a separate tri-clamp ball valve or butterfly valve, some hose barb or similar fitting and sufficient EPDM seals and tri-clamps to secure the thing.

 

[marc1]

Hi Brewer Mike, welcome to the forum.

If you are going to do the pull-through and are concerned about the orientation, then I'd suggest going for a 1.5" tri-clamp bulkhead which allows you to set the orientation when you attach the equipment. BrewHardware has the bulkheads and Bobby_M developed a pull-through tool that draws the bulkhead into place as part of the dimpling process to reduce the need for fighting it.

1.5" tri-clamp 5/8" ID combo ball valve and dip tube. Ball Valve (EZ Clean) with 1.5'' TC ports and 5/8 Diptube
1.5" tri-clamp rotating racking arm. One of many on Google. Buy a Racking Arm (for Non-Jacketed Fermenters) | Stout Tanks & Kettles Brew Equipment

I've got one very similar to the Conical Fermenter site one, the nice thing I find is that the seal is done by the two o-rings and by only having to release the inner clamp to rotate it, there is no chance of leakage. You will need a separate tri-clamp ball valve or butterfly valve, some hose barb or similar fitting and sufficient EPDM seals and tri-clamps to secure the thing.

I have the weldless tri-clamp bulkhead from Bobby to go with my heating element, and it has been great. It's an option if you don't want to solder.

 

[bruce_the_loon]

I have the weldless tri-clamp bulkhead from Bobby to go with my heating element, and it has been great. It's an option if you don't want to solder.

I've also got the weldless fittings, both the single-sided and double-sided ones. Much easier than welding.

 

[marc1]

I've also got the weldless fittings, both the single-sided and double-sided ones. Much easier than welding.

I was really nervous about drilling the kettle, but it went super easy.

 

[Brewer Mike]

Thanks, guys.

I really like the tri-clamps. Well, not the prices That dip tube/racking arm is sweet.

I saw some videos of the pull-through silver solder, and said "I am so doing that!" I'm thinking about adding a spud to accommodate a sight glass, too - and, when I upgrade to a pump, another dip tube to recirculate/whirlpool. Now you guys have me re-thinking it.

 

[Bobby_M]

The only way I can figure to have a rotating diptube with NPT fittings is to use a compression fitting pull through such as Pull Through Solderable 5/8'' Compression and pull it in backwards so the compression nut is on the outside. You could cut the threads off to make the interior cleaner. The diptube would go through the compression fitting and stick out the front a bit. Then convert that to threads for the valve by using a regular thread x compression adapter.