Broken Crow
Ale's what cures 'ya
- Joined
- Oct 12, 2020
- Messages
- 2,066
- Reaction score
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If you’re experienced in beer lines and just want to switch to 3mm ID EVABarrier and just want confirmation that it works, the answer is; Yes.
If you’re new to this, but a competent DIY’er and just want to see the steps, you can skip the disclaimer, but if anything is missing or unclear in my descriptions; come back and read it it then post your question.
Disclaimer and Background:
I hate to include this part, but I don’t want to unintentionally mislead in any way with a flawed post and that potential exists every time I type or answer an even slightly complex question. I was catastrophically injured on the job in 2014 and I’m now physically and neurologically disabled. My posts are usually short because I have a limited working-memory span and a single sentence fills it. Detailed posts take a long time. Despite a lifetime of strong math and physics DIY’ing and a very wide skill-set, I can’t do ‘new’ very well anymore and about 95% of complex daily tasks that used to do with barely a thought now range from difficult and clumsy to impossible. Disability in Canada also means being financially disabled for the rest of your life so I can’t afford to make mistakes with purchasing and building my own gear. A year or so ago, I started looking online for someone else who had swaged 3mm EVABarrier over a swivel nut and while I found a small handful that also wanted to do it, I could not find a single success story. I know damn well it’s doable, but without have seen or read someones else’s description, because of the brain damage it’s very difficult for me so it takes a very very long time. Now; Here’s one of the reason’s I hate my disclaimer: Please do not post supportive comments! This thread is only about using 3mm EVABarrier with swivel-nuts.
I’m posting this for the benefit of those others I saw in online searches for a confirmation that it works. My own reason is that I prefer to use ONLY genuine CM Becker disconnects.
Materials:
1. 9.5mm Oetiker clamp
2. 1/4" Stainless MFL swivel-nut with 1/4" barb
3. 1/4" (6.35mm) Monotight straight connector
4. 3mm ID EVABarrier
5. retainer clips (do yourself a favour and use them!)
Tools:
1. Tube cutter
2. Hose-clamp crimper
3. 'Swaging tool' (I'm just using one of those punches fro driving finising nails in....any decent taper in that size range will work)
4. Keg lube. (It really helps!)
5. Shank and tap wrenches.
6. something to hold your nut and spacer up so they don't fall down the tower...string, coat-hanger, whatever..I used a very long tin-tie
7. Heat gun...Optional and NOT recommended unless you are intimately familiar with using one with plastics! Most people use a pot of water heated on a stove, a heat gun is very agressive by comparison and can melt your line into a blob and even ignite it. (I can't use both hands while at the stove as I've nothing there to lean on while using 2 hands...a disabled thing
)
Step One:
Heat it and shove your taper in, being sure the heat has evenly penetrated ....too cool on the inner layer and it can cause the line to rip, so make sure and give yourself an extra inch before you start in case that happens and needs to be cut off and redone more slowly.
Let it cool just a bit;
Tighten your swivel nut to a disconnect to make it easier to handle, dap a very small bit of keg lube around the barb and shove it in;
Don't even try to make it all the way to the end... this eems to be enough;
Then to the tower:
Toss the old, pop in the new..Don't forget the little blue clips!!
Put back together and no more annoying coils of hose getting in the way of keg changes!
If you’re new to this, but a competent DIY’er and just want to see the steps, you can skip the disclaimer, but if anything is missing or unclear in my descriptions; come back and read it it then post your question.
Disclaimer and Background:
I hate to include this part, but I don’t want to unintentionally mislead in any way with a flawed post and that potential exists every time I type or answer an even slightly complex question. I was catastrophically injured on the job in 2014 and I’m now physically and neurologically disabled. My posts are usually short because I have a limited working-memory span and a single sentence fills it. Detailed posts take a long time. Despite a lifetime of strong math and physics DIY’ing and a very wide skill-set, I can’t do ‘new’ very well anymore and about 95% of complex daily tasks that used to do with barely a thought now range from difficult and clumsy to impossible. Disability in Canada also means being financially disabled for the rest of your life so I can’t afford to make mistakes with purchasing and building my own gear. A year or so ago, I started looking online for someone else who had swaged 3mm EVABarrier over a swivel nut and while I found a small handful that also wanted to do it, I could not find a single success story. I know damn well it’s doable, but without have seen or read someones else’s description, because of the brain damage it’s very difficult for me so it takes a very very long time. Now; Here’s one of the reason’s I hate my disclaimer: Please do not post supportive comments! This thread is only about using 3mm EVABarrier with swivel-nuts.
I’m posting this for the benefit of those others I saw in online searches for a confirmation that it works. My own reason is that I prefer to use ONLY genuine CM Becker disconnects.
Materials:
1. 9.5mm Oetiker clamp
2. 1/4" Stainless MFL swivel-nut with 1/4" barb
3. 1/4" (6.35mm) Monotight straight connector
4. 3mm ID EVABarrier
5. retainer clips (do yourself a favour and use them!)
Tools:
1. Tube cutter
2. Hose-clamp crimper
3. 'Swaging tool' (I'm just using one of those punches fro driving finising nails in....any decent taper in that size range will work)
4. Keg lube. (It really helps!)
5. Shank and tap wrenches.
6. something to hold your nut and spacer up so they don't fall down the tower...string, coat-hanger, whatever..I used a very long tin-tie
7. Heat gun...Optional and NOT recommended unless you are intimately familiar with using one with plastics! Most people use a pot of water heated on a stove, a heat gun is very agressive by comparison and can melt your line into a blob and even ignite it. (I can't use both hands while at the stove as I've nothing there to lean on while using 2 hands...a disabled thing
)Step One:
Heat it and shove your taper in, being sure the heat has evenly penetrated ....too cool on the inner layer and it can cause the line to rip, so make sure and give yourself an extra inch before you start in case that happens and needs to be cut off and redone more slowly.
Let it cool just a bit;
Tighten your swivel nut to a disconnect to make it easier to handle, dap a very small bit of keg lube around the barb and shove it in;
Don't even try to make it all the way to the end... this eems to be enough;
Then to the tower:
Toss the old, pop in the new..Don't forget the little blue clips!!
Put back together and no more annoying coils of hose getting in the way of keg changes!
