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Took a while, but finally wrapped up my new kegerator....

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A friend had been using the faucets for a while and he spoke very highly of them. I wasn't thrilled with the cheap faucets on my last build and so I decided to give them a try.

If you don't have any spares, I recommend picking up some extra o-rings. They have a tendency to bust with regular frequency. http://www.micromatic.com/draft-beer/flow-control-easy-pour-faucet-stainless-steel-body-4933roto-v

On the parts tab, its the $0.27 rear washer. We have about 25 of these faucets at work so let me know if you have any questions or need a run down on how to clean them. Micromatic isn't that great with documentation.
 
Replaced my glycol pumps with smaller aquarium pumps. They can handle some back pressure and I'll be deleting the quick disconnects as they have way too much back pressure.

Ive ordered an RO unit so I can now store 35 gallons of water at a time. No more lifting and schlepping water from the store. Water costs me $7 for 25 gallons and the RO unit was $130. So in just over 18 brew sessions I'll break even on it. Not a bad deal.
 
Replaced my glycol pumps with smaller aquarium pumps. They can handle some back pressure and I'll be deleting the quick disconnects as they have way too much back pressure.

Ive ordered an RO unit so I can now store 35 gallons of water at a time. No more lifting and schlepping water from the store. Water costs me $7 for 25 gallons and the RO unit was $130. So in just over 18 brew sessions I'll break even on it. Not a bad deal.

What RO system did you get? I want to get one eventually.
 
What RO system did you get? I want to get one eventually.

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http://koolermax.com/ro-water-systems/hk120-hydroponics-ro-water-system-150gpd-watergeneral.html

No frills. The harder part is deciding what kind of tank you're going to fill. I also bought the back flush assembly for it.

And filling this tank:

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I think I posted this ealier and I had a TC fitting welded to it for an out flow. Mine will be entirely manual because a float valve wold be difficult to install and eat up storage space.
 
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RO unit arrived. Its larger and heavier than I expected, and doesn't have 2+ gallons of water in it yet. I don't think under the sink is an option anymore, and I'll have to mount this to a stud. The ideal location unfortunately is directly under my 220v outlet. That's safe. Amirite?
 
RO unit arrived. Its larger and heavier than I expected, and doesn't have 2+ gallons of water in it yet. I don't think under the sink is an option anymore, and I'll have to mount this to a stud. The ideal location unfortunately is directly under my 220v outlet. That's safe. Amirite?
Sounds perfect!:confused:

In seriousness, you could attach a shield between the two.
 
Sounds perfect!:confused:

In seriousness, you could attach a shield between the two.
I think that's my plan. The 220v is already guarded by an enclosed shield due to proximity to the sink. But since the RO will be pressurized I think a splash guard is in order.
 
Your ambition is an inspiration and another reminder that I am lazy as ****.
Necessity is the mother of invention. I have 2 herniated disks in my back so my goal with brewing is to lift as little as possible and brewing is not exactly light work. I also love to tinker and build stuff with the ultimate goal of just having to lift grain. I have a system for emptying the mash tun that doesn't involve back breaking lifting (10 gal system).

After 13 years of brewing I'm not giving up, but I do have to change how I brew. And it just means spending more and taking more time to build "cheats" into my process.

I need to get 2 3-way valves next so I can plumb my system completely so I am not constantly bending down to move hoses around. It's that bad that I am trying to eliminate as much bending and lifting as possible.
 
In fact, has anyone had postie or negative experiences using the 3 way valves from brewershardware? It's what I intend to buy.
 
Something I learned. This system doesn't filter out chloramines. I figured RO was RO since I used to get RO water from the Glacier machines. But those have a UV filter which disassociates the chemical. So I added a 5th housing and another filter post RO unit to strip out chloramines. I had an off flavor in a beer I first associated with chloramines (which is used in treating my water) only to discover and confirm a slime booger on a QD spring I only use to fill kegs from conical was the culpret.

Anyway, arrives today so I can plumb it in and get back to making my own brewing water.
 
I don't really get the point of the SS Brite Tank at the homebrew level.

I have 2 14g conicals and 3 10 gallon corny kegs that I use as "Brite" tanks before I push them to 5 gallon kegs. The SS is $550 and you can pick up 10 gallon kegs for 1/2 that.

Never heard anything bad about their conicals. I'd be kind of interested in the 1/2 bbl version.
 
I use kegs as brites also but it's janky AF. My thought is to get the chronical, do my normal fermentation and souring in there, then pressure transfer to the brite for dry hop and carbing. Then from there it's easy to dial in the carb and transfer to bottles, sanke, or corney kegs. Also you throw on a CIP spray ball and a small pump and it's easy to clean.
 
I don't really get the point of the SS Brite Tank at the homebrew level.

I have 2 14g conicals and 3 10 gallon corny kegs that I use as "Brite" tanks before I push them to 5 gallon kegs. The SS is $550 and you can pick up 10 gallon kegs for 1/2 that.

Never heard anything bad about their conicals. I'd be kind of interested in the 1/2 bbl version.

I use kegs as brites also but it's janky AF. My thought is to get the chronical, do my normal fermentation and souring in there, then pressure transfer to the brite for dry hop and carbing. Then from there it's easy to dial in the carb and transfer to bottles, sanke, or corney kegs. Also you throw on a CIP spray ball and a small pump and it's easy to clean.
I never quite saw the point of the brite either, but that's a good rundown of using it. I am pretty intrigued by the uni tank they just announced. Going to research that one for my next upgrade.
 
I never quite saw the point of the brite either, but that's a good rundown of using it. I am pretty intrigued by the uni tank they just announced. Going to research that one for my next upgrade.

I looked at those too, but the chronical and brite together are cheaper than the one unitank. It would be nice to do it all in one, but having 2 vessels gives me a little more fermentation space.

I'm all about some DIY ****, but I've been on janky equipment since I started. Hot side I don't care about. A lot of homebrewers I know have a nicer brewhouse than the pro equipment I've brewed on or been around. But I'm tired of ******* around with glass and plastic fermentation vessels. I just want something that works without having to mess with it all the time.
 
I looked at those too, but the chronical and brite together are cheaper than the one unitank. It would be nice to do it all in one, but having 2 vessels gives me a little more fermentation space.

I'm all about some DIY ****, but I've been on janky equipment since I started. Hot side I don't care about. A lot of homebrewers I know have a nicer brewhouse than the pro equipment I've brewed on or been around. But I'm tired of ******* around with glass and plastic fermentation vessels. I just want something that works without having to mess with it all the time.
See there's the research I needed to do. I didn't know pricing would be Ike that. Other thing that will play a part is footprint. Not sure I have space to add a brite tank and keep it cold.
 
The new big mouth bubbler (glass) carboy has that friggin "universal port" lid with the silicone seal that pops off if there is too much pressure or a bad seal. Stupid design and should have stuck with the original one where it had a locking nut that went over the port. Is there a plastic locking nut that is sold for the newer models? It looks like there is a thread around the top for one, but i cannot find one.
 

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