New equipment and/or upgrades discussion

[Beerontwowheels]

Cooler mash tun cracked in the cold weather. Looking to upgrade without breaking the bank. Typically do 5-10gal batches. Any suggestions?

My 52qt Coleman Xtreme has served me well. Maintains temp relatively well, but there are definitely hot spots in different areas. Can handle 10 gallon batches if the gravity stays reasonable.

 

[Vogt52]

My 52qt Coleman Xtreme has served me well. Maintains temp relatively well, but there are definitely hot spots in different areas. Can handle 10 gallon batches if the gravity stays reasonable.

I'm leaning towards a stainless mash tun because this is the second cooler that has bitten the dust. Any suggestions?

 

[Beerontwowheels]

I'm leaning towards a stainless mash tun because this is the second cooler that has bitten the dust. Any suggestions?

Can't help you here. If I go stainless I would be shifting to an electric system. I'm not there yet.

 

[Ziggy]

Is there like a quick disconnecting thermometer for a mash tun/boil kettle? Right now, boil kettle we use has the analog needle thermometer that is threaded and screws into the valve. Is there a fitting where you could attach a digital thermometer to a kettle/mash tun opening/valve and easily remove it/place it back in? I have a preference to digital thermometers since they are easy to calibrate and more accurate readings. Looking for something that i don't have to screw in like the analog threaded thermometer

 

[ShawDeuce221]

Nothing too big but I grabbed a new burner. I couldn't stand the amount of soot that was coming from my darkstar. Just a simple Bayou Classic but it'll get the job done for the time being.

Don't mind my "wind screen"

 

[neorunner]

Is there like a quick disconnecting thermometer for a mash tun/boil kettle? Right now, boil kettle we use has the analog needle thermometer that is threaded and screws into the valve. Is there a fitting where you could attach a digital thermometer to a kettle/mash tun opening/valve and easily remove it/place it back in? I have a preference to digital thermometers since they are easy to calibrate and more accurate readings. Looking for something that i don't have to screw in like the analog threaded thermometer

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=15&products_id=84

 

[Ziggy]

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=15&products_id=84

Any idea what kind of thermometer you could plug/wire that into? I'm not too electronic savvy like that.

 

[neorunner]

Any idea what kind of thermometer you could plug/wire that into? I'm not too electronic savvy like that.

This will support 2 probes:
https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=17&products_id=618

This will give you an idea how you can use the temperature probes in your system:
http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/temperature-probes

 

[Ziggy]

This will support 2 probes:
https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=17&products_id=618

This will give you an idea how you can use the temperature probes in your system:
http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/temperature-probes

Great info here. Thanks man

 

[Five28 hz]

Is there like a quick disconnecting thermometer for a mash tun/boil kettle? Right now, boil kettle we use has the analog needle thermometer that is threaded and screws into the valve. Is there a fitting where you could attach a digital thermometer to a kettle/mash tun opening/valve and easily remove it/place it back in? I have a preference to digital thermometers since they are easy to calibrate and more accurate readings. Looking for something that i don't have to screw in like the analog threaded thermometer

Pretty sure you can get a weldless thermowell in the side of the kettle and use a digital thermometer just like you're describing

 

[axeman91821]

Figured I'd drop a link to this here because some of you guys might be interested. The owner did a Skype demo/Q&A session with my club last week (even though it was after 1am over in the UK) and it seems like it'd be pretty handy if you have a fermentation fridge.

https://www.mybrewbot.com/

 

[TheAbyss]

Aside from capacity limitations, I see no reason to upgrade my 10G coolers I use as a mash tuns. They hold the temperature extremely well and are easy to clean. Efficiency has been around 75% with batch sparging and I am fine with that as well. I have had is a stuck sparge when using 50% wheat 50% pils in a hefe, some rice hulls fixes that. Am I missing something?

 

[Gonzoillini1]

Aside from capacity limitations, I see no reason to upgrade my 10G coolers I use as a mash tuns. They hold the temperature extremely well and are easy to clean. Efficiency has been around 75% with batch sparging and I am fine with that as well. I have had is a stuck sparge when using 50% wheat 50% pils in a hefe, some rice hulls fixes that. Am I missing something?

Just the ability to do step mashes really (or to show off your fancy stainless steel).

 

[rcubed1]

I haven't found a reason to upgrade myself but I'm trying to keep it simple as possible.

With stainless you can go electric and setup a HERMS or RIMS system. But I have seen some creative things people have done with their cooler MTs.

 

[Vogt52]

Looking at potentially upgrading to stainless because of durability. Have had two coolers within the last year crack or break in one way or another

 

[TheAbyss]

Just the ability to do step mashes really (or to show off your fancy stainless steel).

I have been able to step mashes in the cooler (it's difficult but doable). The fancy stainless looks pretty but I figured it functions the same really.

I have had the same coolers for 5+ years. Never had a problem with durability.

 

[Gonzoillini1]

I have been able to step mashes in the cooler (it's difficult but doable). The fancy stainless looks pretty but I figured it functions the same really.

I have had the same coolers for 5+ years. Never had a problem with durability.

Are you just mashing in low and adding additional (warmer) water to bring it up to additional temps? **** that sounds like a lot of calculations and work.

 

[TheAbyss]

Are you just mashing in low and adding additional (warmer) water to bring it up to additional temps? **** that sounds like a lot of calculations and work.

Yes and yes. I normally don't do multi step mashes because of that. Mainly single infusion and batch sparge.

I have been doing a normal mash followed by a 30 min decoction in the kettle added back to sparge and sparge out for styles that benefit from a decoction mash.

 

[Ziggy]

Any reccomendations for length of beverage line going from sanke hookup to a picnic tap?

 

[neorunner]

Any reccomendations for length of beverage line going from sanke hookup to a picnic tap?

Length (ft) = keg pressure/line resistance
3/16" ID draft line has a resistance of 3

 

[Five28 hz]

Length (ft) = keg pressure/line resistance
3/16" ID draft line has a resistance of 3

I've had better luck doubling that. I serve my saisons at 18-20 psi and 12' of 3/16" draft line works well.

 

[nanobrew1]

Has anyone here ever made an inline carbonator? I am thinking of making one. I have seen builds and I see that the Blichmann one uses a 1 gpm pump. I was wanting to use something a little faster as I am thinking of making something to carbonate about 1 bbl. However, I saw a video where someone built a carbonator with a 3 gpm pump and this caused back flow through the stone and into the CO2 line (set at 15psi).

 

[neorunner]

I've had better luck doubling that. I serve my saisons at 18-20 psi and 12' of 3/16" draft line works well.

Probably due to height change. Considering they are just wanting to go to a picnic tap the height delta shouldn't be much of an impact.

 

[TripleSixHoppia]

Any reccomendations for length of beverage line going from sanke hookup to a picnic tap?

4ish foot at 12 PSI is usually pretty good as long as the keg is cold. If you are planning on having the keg outside in an ice bucket, that's where things can get a little squirrely.

 

[Ziggy]

If you are planning on having the keg outside in an ice bucket, that's where things can get a little squirrely.

Hows that?

 

[user 307594]

Hows that?

co2 solubility is very temperature dependent, as the beer warms you get gas breakout/foam. 6 feet of 3/16" should be a pretty standard starting point for a party tap. Even if the beer in the line warms completely between pours its only 1oz of beer so just dump that and pull fresh from the keg. Keep the keg as cold as possible for best results.

 

[Ziggy]

co2 solubility is very temperature dependent, as the beer warms you get gas breakout/foam. 6 feet of 3/16" should be a pretty standard starting point for a party tap. Even if the beer in the line warms completely between pours its only 1oz of beer so just dump that and pull fresh from the keg. Keep the keg as cold as possible for best results.

Yeah i get that but he said "things will get squirrely" leaving it outside in an ice bucket. Maybe there is no ice in said bucket in this hypothetical situation? Idk. I figured on keeping the keg cold anyways.

 

[TripleSixHoppia]

Yeah i get that but he said "things will get squirrely" leaving it outside in an ice bucket. Maybe there is no ice in said bucket in this hypothetical situation? Idk. I figured on keeping the keg cold anyways.

The CO2 balance in a 34 degree keg and a 45 degree keg is very different.

 

[neorunner]

Blue - Lost Abby beers
White - Why did I add priming sugar to my keg?
Grey - souts-n-such
Green - lagers and normal ales
Yellow - foamy ****
Red - that sour that refermented in the keg after you added fruit and forgot to add kmbs

 

[Phischy1]

Anyone use this for dry hopping IPAs in kegs?

http://www.clearbeerdraughtsystem.com