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The new big mouth bubbler (glass) carboy has that friggin "universal port" lid with the silicone seal that pops off if there is too much pressure or a bad seal. Stupid design and should have stuck with the original one where it had a locking nut that went over the port. Is there a plastic locking nut that is sold for the newer models? It looks like there is a thread around the top for one, but i cannot find one.

Had same issue with the plastic BMB. Crap design.

However if you flip the gasket around where the wider part of it is at the bottom, give the whole lid a dunk in starsan and jam it on. The lid should stay on through fermentation.
 
Anyone use the SS Brewtech BrewBucket?

I love the idea of a stainless carboy, but that valve just looks janky. Mostly for 2ndary fermentations after coming from a conical. Fruit, oak, whatever.
 
Anyone use the SS Brewtech BrewBucket?

I love the idea of a stainless carboy, but that valve just looks janky. Mostly for 2ndary fermentations after coming from a conical. Fruit, oak, whatever.

I want to get one for primary since I usually only have one clean beer going at a time. Would be curious to hear feedback from people on here.
 
I want to get one for primary since I usually only have one clean beer going at a time. Would be curious to hear feedback from people on here.
I do know if you get the 7 gal chronical domed lid, then you can transfer under pressure. But they won't stack, which isn't an issue for me.
 
I've been using the original for about a year and a half. I just added the 3.5gl mini, since most of my batches are in the three gallon range. I use the normal lids and transfer "under pressure" by taking a tube from my co2 tank and plugging the vent hole and apply about 2-3 psi to get the beer moving to the keg. Cleaning is the biggest benefit I see with these. I would like a way to harvest yeast from them being my biggest complaint.
 
I've been using the original for about a year and a half. I just added the 3.5gl mini, since most of my batches are in the three gallon range. I use the normal lids and transfer "under pressure" by taking a tube from my co2 tank and plugging the vent hole and apply about 2-3 psi to get the beer moving to the keg. Cleaning is the biggest benefit I see with these. I would like a way to harvest yeast from them being my biggest complaint.
Well at that point you need a conical.
 
Well at that point you need a conical.
I know, still trying to decide if I want to make that jump. Right now if I'm brewing a batch to harvest yeast I use a carboy. I'm comfortable with harvesting from there but with the big opening on the ss I haven't wanted to try. So a batch that goes in the ss is the last I use that pitch.
 
Bought a 3g Better bottle and 1.75g keg with a Snap Tap, so I can have beer in my regular fridge and be able to take kegs tailgating and such.

Anyone have any experience with the Snap Taps? I bought a Perlick 650 Flow Control faucet to change out the faucet it came with. CO2 is run off a regular regulator and paintball tank. 20oz tank I believe. Just wondering if anyone has tips on setting serving PSI since there is no beer line resistance.
 
Bought a 3g Better bottle and 1.75g keg with a Snap Tap, so I can have beer in my regular fridge and be able to take kegs tailgating and such.

Anyone have any experience with the Snap Taps? I bought a Perlick 650 Flow Control faucet to change out the faucet it came with. CO2 is run off a regular regulator and paintball tank. 20oz tank I believe. Just wondering if anyone has tips on setting serving PSI since there is no beer line resistance.

Missed the edit window...

http://www.kegerators.com/carbonation-table.php

I looks like at 34*f (fridge temp) I can carb to a little over 2 PSI and run 6-7 PSI from the regulator. Then hopefully the flow control can add what ever resistance is needed. Still would like some opinions if anyone has used one.
 
I am looking into buying a hop spider from Utah Biodiesel for my 15 gal boil kettle. I'm getting tired of clogging my plate chiller but I am concerned that the hop spider decreases hop utilization. Has anyone else noticed a decrease when they went from free moving hops in the boil to using a spider?
 
I am looking into buying a hop spider from Utah Biodiesel for my 15 gal boil kettle. I'm getting tired of clogging my plate chiller but I am concerned that the hop spider decreases hop utilization. Has anyone else noticed a decrease when they went from free moving hops in the boil to using a spider?
I built one a while back using the BYO article as a guide. I've been using large paint straining bags. I don't use a plate chiller and I'm not the world best brewer but I've been happy with the happy beers I make. I only use it on batches with lots of hops of I'm doing a cream ale or mild I don't tend to mess with the spider.

Edit! Hoppy not happy.
 
I am looking into buying a hop spider from Utah Biodiesel for my 15 gal boil kettle. I'm getting tired of clogging my plate chiller but I am concerned that the hop spider decreases hop utilization. Has anyone else noticed a decrease when they went from free moving hops in the boil to using a spider?
I had one made from Utah it's the size of a ball lock keg. I wanted more wort flow through it to maximize extraction. What I noticed is the wort inside the spider, 300 micron, doesn't have a rolling boil, and mine is 1/2" off the kettle bottom. Extraction is my worry as well. But I've only used it once.

My next idea was to use a March pump on a low flow to push wort directly back into the top of the spider so it would have to flow back out, thus increasing mixing with the hops. I havent built a rig for that yet and my next concern is the hops would clog the mesh and I'd get an overflow. No evidence to back that up.

And the same thing for whirlpool additions I'd want to flow back through the top of the filter.
 
I finally bought an RO system but now I need to figure out where to put it. Well that and read the directions of how to put the thing together.
Check if your water supply has chloramines. My RO unit did not have a chloramines filter, it's another housing + filter. Or maybe yours is rated to filter them out, but double check. Filter speed is based on your water pressure, mine is 55psi, so it takes hours to create enough water for a 12 batch. Other wise it's pretty easy to setup.
 
Check if your water supply has chloramines. My RO unit did not have a chloramines filter, it's another housing + filter. Or maybe yours is rated to filter them out, but double check. Filter speed is based on your water pressure, mine is 55psi, so it takes hours to create enough water for a 12 batch. Other wise it's pretty easy to setup.

It was a UV filter. It's a 6-stage system: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00O2BOZ7M/?tag=talkbecom09-20 . So I think I'm good unless I'm missing something.
 
Anyone have any experience with the Snap Taps? I bought a Perlick 650 Flow Control faucet to change out the faucet it came with. CO2 is run off a regular regulator and paintball tank. 20oz tank I believe. Just wondering if anyone has tips on setting serving PSI since there is no beer line resistance.

Perlick flow control won't work with the snap tap. I'll have to get a different adapter.
 
Check if your water supply has chloramines. My RO unit did not have a chloramines filter, it's another housing + filter. Or maybe yours is rated to filter them out, but double check. Filter speed is based on your water pressure, mine is 55psi, so it takes hours to create enough water for a 12 batch. Other wise it's pretty easy to setup.

No, not at the moment. I'm going to see how it works with the tank it came with. I'll be transferring water to another bucket for storage. I recently moved so I'm still not sure how I'll be doing things now with my setup.
Are these the same as the water machines in front of grocery stores? That's what I've been using for my brew water and am tired of of lugging those 5gl bottles around.
 
The commercial units have a UV filter, so rcubed doesn't need another cannister filter, mine did not. The UV disassociates the chloramine, so you're good. Had I known this up front I would have bought one with a UV filter, as it also kills bacteria.

I have a 37 gallon corny keg I use for storage. I had it modified so I pick up off the bottom and transfer via March pump. Not using the liquid dip tube, but a TC fitting welded to the side. I need to get my water tested j st to see what the final numbers are.
 
I think I read somewhere that star San solution made with RO/DI water lasts longer, but I think that would just be a function of Tap water pH. Anyone know?
 
I think I read somewhere that star San solution made with RO/DI water lasts longer, but I think that would just be a function of Tap water pH. Anyone know?

Heard the same but I can't remember why. I have a spray bottle of Star San and I always use DI water for it. Stays clear unlike when I use tap water.
 
I am looking into buying a hop spider from Utah Biodiesel for my 15 gal boil kettle. I'm getting tired of clogging my plate chiller but I am concerned that the hop spider decreases hop utilization. Has anyone else noticed a decrease when they went from free moving hops in the boil to using a spider?

I haven't noticed any decrease in utilization. Then again, I use the spider as a strainer and squeeze out all the remaining oils.
 
Like a big ole French press for your boil kettle?
My UBD hop spider I had made to either hang on this side, or it has 3 feet so it can sit on the floor of the kettle, and it's low enough that I can put the lid on. It also has side supports and a bottom cross bar because I also had them make me a big press to act exactly like a French press. That whole custom setup wasn't cheap. I need to experiment more with it.
 

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