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Itching to try out my new BrewJacket, but I decided to wait until after I finish brewing for competition to make any changes to my process.
 
If anyone in Houston is interested, I have a 60qt/15 gal thick wall aluminium pot with 1/2" ball valve and thermometer for sale.

No lid, can pick one up at a restaurant supply store, where I bought the kettle, which was used as my HLT.

I have about $150 in it so FS for $75 firm.

SirDickButts has seen it.

I can find a photo of it later.
 
First attempt at flattening the coil by 25% and then wrapping was a total failure. Waving, twisting, kinking...all sorts of bad things. When I wrapped it it really became apparent. Doh. Live and learn.

20170126_173740_zpstx8xw4pu.jpg

So next attempt I wired the conical to an OG more beer stand so I would have more stability. This worked out much better. I need some different elbows to sweat on. But I think I can get this fully functional tomorrow. Still working on the RO reservoir.

20170126_182825_zpscm4vhwig.jpg


More work and photos to come.

Edit: I'm following this build:
https://m.flickr.com/#/photos/billjohnn/2226925977/in/set-72157601706400311/

I thought by flattening the coil I would be able to increase effect by creating more surface area contact. So that was the thought behind Plan A.
 
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I'd really like to do a keezer build out like that, but I'm not at all handy when it comes to that kind of stuff and I'm too afraid I'd end up ruining my chest freezer :oops:
I would say go for it. There's not much you do to damage the freezer if all your doing is sealing the wood collar to the freezer with silicone caulk. There's no need for mechanical fasters into the freezer. All the screws will end up in the wood collar, so everything is easily reversible. I'm greatly oversimplifYing, but I think you can do it.
 
Got my part in, so now I can put the elbow in the 1/2" OD HVAC copper.

20170202_181657_zps3gdqf9pw.jpg


Slip over then use thumbs to put the 90 in without krimping.

20170202_180729_zpsmz9kbujh.jpg


Then twist off.

Next apply tension with ratchet straps and spin the copper until it's flush and tight with the steel.

20170126_182825_zpscm4vhwig.jpg


Older attempt, but shows spacing. Then use easy clamps to walk around and slowing tighten all the coils together without crushing the pipe.

20170202_192859_zpslmzbvs9w.jpg


Where I left it tonight. Attempted to wire the elbows together going around the back to hold tension , but failed. Will attempt to solder them together tomorrow.
 
So then I sweated the coils together. 3 vertical areas, the 3rd being on the backside. Didn't plan to clean it up since it will be hidden.

20170205_101459_zpsacsa3vla.jpg


Then starting to wrap it with foil covered bubble wrap from Home Depot. Then added a heat blanket.

20170205_113439_zpstyvppi9h.jpg

I used foil tape to close that opening.

And what it looks like done:

20170205_162818_zps28e4tflp.jpg

I may add a 2nd wrap to the top but working on the 2nd conical now. Pretty happy with it.
 
My floors are so filthy. Brewing and sawdust doesn't mix. Need to power wash it bad before the next brewday.
 
If you need to zest a bunch of citrus for brewing, I made this janky-ass zest-o-matic a while ago. Between myself and my assistant brewer, we did a case of oranges (~88 oranges to a case) in 90 minutes. I use a harbor freight high-torque, low speed drill with variable speed. I used a serving fork that I ground down the shaft down into a square and tighten the hell out of the chuck. Jab your fruit, lock the drill on, and press your microplane zester onto the the spinning fruit. So much easier than doing it by hand.

 
If you need to zest a bunch of citrus for brewing, I made this janky-ass zest-o-matic a while ago. Between myself and my assistant brewer, we did a case of oranges (~88 oranges to a case) in 90 minutes. I use a harbor freight high-torque, low speed drill with variable speed. I used a serving fork that I ground down the shaft down into a square and tighten the hell out of the chuck. Jab your fruit, lock the drill on, and press your microplane zester onto the the spinning fruit. So much easier than doing it by hand.


That is janktacular!
 
Couldnt find a kegging thread, so gonna try in here. So I'm only about 4-5 kegs deep into the kegging game, and recently have had entire 5 gallon corny kegs leak out overnight. Has anyone else had this issue? It's really demoralizing having an entire batch leak out into your garage :(

I'm using the threaded ball lock disconnects and proper size tubing and they seem to be airtight, but after carbing and dropping the gas down to a serving psi, it appears the pressure built up is forcing beer out of the liquid connect and even sometimes through the gas connect/line (this specifically has happened during carbing before the liquid connect is attached). Is this just a case of needing to pull the o ring more frequently? Are my connects ****** up/not assembled properly after cleaning? Is there a certain psi i need to stay under? Any help would be appreciated!
 
Couldnt find a kegging thread, so gonna try in here. So I'm only about 4-5 kegs deep into the kegging game, and recently have had entire 5 gallon corny kegs leak out overnight. Has anyone else had this issue? It's really demoralizing having an entire batch leak out into your garage :(

I'm using the threaded ball lock disconnects and proper size tubing and they seem to be airtight, but after carbing and dropping the gas down to a serving psi, it appears the pressure built up is forcing beer out of the liquid connect and even sometimes through the gas connect/line (this specifically has happened during carbing before the liquid connect is attached). Is this just a case of needing to pull the o ring more frequently? Are my connects ****** up/not assembled properly after cleaning? Is there a certain psi i need to stay under? Any help would be appreciated!
Do you have new gas and liquid connects? New seals in the keg? What psi are you at?
 
Connects are fairly new, like 4-5 months. I take them apart to clean after each keg, but 99% sure theyre reassembled properly. The seals in the keg, no idea. Have 2 cornys and they both leaked so i dont think that's issue, unless both are bad. How would i check that? Psi has probably been about 5 when the leaks occurred. Carb at about 20 for 3-4 days prior, and have noticed beer in the gas line before.
 
Connects are fairly new, like 4-5 months. I take them apart to clean after each keg, but 99% sure theyre reassembled properly. The seals in the keg, no idea. Have 2 cornys and they both leaked so i dont think that's issue, unless both are bad. How would i check that? Psi has probably been about 5 when the leaks occurred. Carb at about 20 for 3-4 days prior, and have noticed beer in the gas line before.


Beer in the gas line is never good. How high are you filling up the keg? You should always leave space between the gas tube and the beer level.
 
Beer in the gas line hasnt been egregious but has happened, like maybe an inch or two of the line filled on occasion. Usually if the keg is moved or jostled. Pulling the o ring will force it back in. I dont believe i've ever filled up to the gas line, but its certainly possible. I typically do a closed transfer so its tough to tell. Thanks
 
Connects are fairly new, like 4-5 months. I take them apart to clean after each keg, but 99% sure theyre reassembled properly. The seals in the keg, no idea. Have 2 cornys and they both leaked so i dont think that's issue, unless both are bad. How would i check that? Psi has probably been about 5 when the leaks occurred. Carb at about 20 for 3-4 days prior, and have noticed beer in the gas line before.
A new o-ring kit is only a couple bucks. Certainly wouldn't hurt to replace them. I wonder if you might have a bad poppet valve? For less than $10 you could replace everything.
 
A new o-ring kit is only a couple bucks. Certainly wouldn't hurt to replace them. I wonder if you might have a bad poppet valve? For less than $10 you could replace everything.

So it could be a problem with the o ring thats causing the over pressurization and forcing beer out? Based on where the beer spilled id say it was 99% from the liquid post rather than the gas. So i should be pulling the o ring between carbing and serving? I always thought it best not to, so the aroma is held in. Will try that and replace the poppet valves before next batch, thanks for the help everyone.
 
So it could be a problem with the o ring thats causing the over pressurization and forcing beer out? Based on where the beer spilled id say it was 99% from the liquid post rather than the gas. So i should be pulling the o ring between carbing and serving? I always thought it best not to, so the aroma is held in. Will try that and replace the poppet valves before next batch, thanks for the help everyone.
Honestly, I've never had any issues with my kegs or kegging other than the lid not seating right on the first go. I guess I'm just really lucky.
 

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