Need help with a hop switch

[aussie brewer]

Ive got this fermenting at the moment
4.6kg pale malt
470g munich
120g crystal 40L
29.5g centennial 30 mins 22IBU
32.5g cascade 15mins 10 IBU
26g cascade steep 15mins 4IBU
24L batch
im thinking of using the same grain bill and using galaxy
how would i go about it to maintain a balanced beer?
Cheers!

 

[ba-brewer]

To maintain the basic bitterness to malt balance of the beer, just replace the existing hops with an amount of galaxy to get the same IBUs.

Assuming you have a program like beersmith or online with brewsfriend it should not be too much work.

I have a galaxy smash on tap right now that I used galaxy for bittering too, the bitterness seems pretty soft.

edit: because galaxy in general has a higher AA than cascade you will use less hops by weight and may not get as much aroma and flavoring. If you can chill down to 160F for your steeping you could increase the amount of steeping hops to get back some aroma and flavor without adding bitterness. Could also push the 15min addition to 10 or 5 mins so you use more hops to get the same IBUs.

 

[aussie brewer]

To maintain the basic bitterness to malt balance of the beer, just replace the existing hops with an amount of galaxy to get the same IBUs.

Assuming you have a program like beersmith or online with brewsfriend it should not be too much work.

I have a galaxy smash on tap right now that I used galaxy for bittering too, the bitterness seems pretty soft.

edit: because galaxy in general has a higher AA than cascade you will use less hops by weight and may not get as much aroma and flavoring. If you can chill down to 160F for your steeping you could increase the amount of steeping hops to get back some aroma and flavor without adding bitterness. Could also push the 15min addition to 10 or 5 mins so you use more hops to get the same IBUs.

Thanks ba-brewer! i was a bit worried about the difference in AA between the cascade and galaxy, how much would you increase the steeping hops?

 

[ba-brewer]

If you can cool down to about 160F before adding the steep hops they will add very little bitterness so you could use the same amount as what was used for the cascade so 26gm.

In order to compensate for the missing 4 IBU from the flameout addition I would change the 15 min 10IBU addition to a 14IBU addition.

 

[aussie brewer]

If you can cool down to about 160F before adding the steep hops they will add very little bitterness so you could use the same amount as what was used for the cascade so 26gm.

In order to compensate for the missing 4 IBU from the flameout addition I would change the 15 min 10IBU addition to a 14IBU addition.

If i reduce the steep temp to 160F would this change the bitterness from the 30min addition?

 

[Dgallo]

If i reduce the steep temp to 160F would this change the bitterness from the 30min addition?

Not exactly. So it won’t change the projected ibus from what the program calculated, however, the longer you take to cool the wort to pitching temperatures the more bitterness you will gain from every addition. Here’s a quick little example, if you add a hop at 20 mins, the program will calculate the ibus based on 20 mins of boiling temps. Now let’s it takes 20 mins to fall below 180*. That’s 20 addition minutes of isomerzation of the alphas. And now you’ll whirlpool for 30 mins at 160 which will still add some ibus to that 20 minute addition. As long as you factor your Ibu/GU ration to about 0.75 you won’t have a problem with any of the addition post boil ibus

 

[ba-brewer]

If i reduce the steep temp to 160F would this change the bitterness from the 30min addition?

You probably got a few IBUs from the 15 and 30min additions during the 15min steep if you allow to naturally cool from a boil before that you would not get if you chilled to 160 before doing the steep. I would not worry about it personally.

 

[aussie brewer]

Not exactly. So it won’t change the projected ibus from what the program calculated, however, the longer you take to cool the wort to pitching temperatures the more bitterness you will gain from every addition. Here’s a quick little example, if you add a hop at 20 mins, the program will calculate the ibus based on 20 mins of boiling temps. Now let’s it takes 20 mins to fall below 180*. That’s 20 addition minutes of isomerzation of the alphas. And now you’ll whirlpool for 30 mins at 160 which will still add some ibus to that 20 minute addition. As long as you factor your Ibu/GU ration to about 0.75 you won’t have a problem with any of the addition post boil ibus

Thanks for the great info, just saw the ibu/GU ration on beersmith will keep it at 0.75

 

[IslandLizard]

What @ba-brewer said.^

IBUs/bittering are one thing. Beersmith calculates them fairly well at different timings and temperatures. Flavor and aroma contributions are much harder to predict. If you know the total lupulin (oil) content of the hops you can compare or match with other hops you've used and thus estimate and target flavor/aroma levels. Kinda...

Obtain part of the flavor (and some bittering) from late boil additions and then more flavor and aroma from hopstands/whirlpool hopping at reduced temps after the boil. Under 160-150F bittering is minimal. You can always dry hop to get more aroma (and some flavor) to balance it all out.

Many of us typically bitter with Warrior, or Magnum, Columbus, Nugget, etc. Mainly because Galaxy and other lovely southern hemisphere hops are so expensive here in the U.S. and often hard to get when you need them.

 

[aussie brewer]

You probably got a few IBUs from the 15 and 30min additions during the 15min steep if you allow to naturally cool from a boil before that you would not get if you chilled to 160 before doing the steep. I would not worry about it personally.[/QUOTEThanks Ba-brewer ill chill to 160

 

[aussie brewer]

What @ba-brewer said.^

IBUs/bittering are one thing. Beersmith calculates them fairly well at different timings and temperatures. Flavor and aroma contributions are much harder to predict. If you know the total lupulin (oil) content of the hops you can compare or match with other hops you've used and thus estimate and target flavor/aroma levels. Kinda...

Obtain part of the flavor (and some bittering) from late boil additions and then more flavor and aroma from hopstands/whirlpool hopping at reduced temps after the boil. Under 160-150F bittering is minimal. You can always dry hop to get more aroma (and some flavor) to balance it all out.

Many of us typically bitter with Warrior, or Magnum, Columbus, Nugget, etc. Mainly because Galaxy and other lovely southern hemisphere hops are so expensive here in the U.S. and often hard to get when you need them.

thanks Island lizard!

 

[ba-brewer]

If you read enough hop descriptions you will see some hops identified as smooth or some as coarse. Even when the IBUs are calculated out to be identical the end result can be perceived differently. Calculators get you in ball park but sometime you need to just brew the recipe a time or two to tweak things to your liking.

 

[aussie brewer]

If you read enough hop descriptions you will see some hops identified as smooth or some as coarse. Even when the IBUs are calculated out to be identical the end result can be perceived differently. Calculators get you in ball park but sometime you need to just brew the recipe a time or two to tweak things to your liking.

thanks for the great advice Ba-brewer!

 

[ba-brewer]

@aussie brewer

I recently bought the two the Australian yeast, wlp009 and wlp059, from the whitelabs vault release. I was planning to do beers in the spirit of the 2015 BJCP Australian sparkling ale guideline, but when I looked at the 2019 BJCP I see they added a new category called Australian pale ale.

Not sure if you have looked at those or not but was wondering how close the outlines are to beer commercially brewed in Australia?

Does your recipe in the OP fit in either one of these categories?

After looking at the 2019 guidelines I rebrewed my galaxy golden ale with wlp059. Think I will do a similar beer with Victoria secret and wlp009.

 

[aussie brewer]

@aussie brewer

I recently bought the two the Australian yeast, wlp009 and wlp059, from the whitelabs vault release. I was planning to do beers in the spirit of the 2015 BJCP Australian sparkling ale guideline, but when I looked at the 2019 BJCP I see they added a new category called Australian pale ale.

Not sure if you have looked at those or not but was wondering how close the outlines are to beer commercially brewed in Australia?

Does your recipe in the OP fit in either one of these categories?

After looking at the 2019 guidelines I rebrewed my galaxy golden ale with wlp059. Think I will do a similar beer with Victoria secret and wlp009.

Hi Ba brewer, i just had a look at the guidelines and the descriptions sound about right, coopers pale ale was pretty popular for a while. There are alot of smaller breweries producing american pale ales now. The recipe i posted was an american pale ale, i wouldnt mind trying a different yeast next time.
Id like to have a look at your golden ale recipe if you dont mind!?

 

[ba-brewer]

Not much of a recipe and I may be playing it a bit loose to call it a golden ale, but it stays in the green for the british golden ale style in beersmith.

5.25gal
72%BHE
mash 152F
35.8IBU
4.7%ABV
1046SG, 1010FG

​

9lb pale ale malt
7gm galaxy 60min 15.4AA 13.3IBU
7gm galaxy 15min 15.4AA 6.6IBU
42gm galaxy 5min 15.4AA 15.9IBU
WLP059 Melbourne Ale yeast

I brew this basic formula as my generic beer offering, 100% base malt and 2oz of a single type of hop. Shoot for close to half of the IBUs at 60min and half the IBUs in two 20min and less additions. I play with the later amounts and times to get low to mid 30s IBUs. Some time I will dry hop with a additional 2oz of hops.​

 

[aussie brewer]

Thanks Ba brewer! i might give something like this a go