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My Ugly Junk- Corona Mill Station...

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I *think* I've read about guys using big-rig windshield motors.

Yeah, you have read that in another thread here. So have I. I just don't have access to spare wiper motors from semi tractors. I think that the wiper motor that monsterguts sells for animating Halloween decorations might have enough oomph to do it. I just don't have a torque wrench to check how much torque it takes to turn the mill, with grain in it.
 
Yeah, you have read that in another thread here. So have I. I just don't have access to spare wiper motors from semi tractors. I think that the wiper motor that monsterguts sells for animating Halloween decorations might have enough oomph to do it. I just don't have a torque wrench to check how much torque it takes to turn the mill, with grain in it.

Here's a figure: A LOT. I conditioned my malt this weekend and the drill had a hard time starting (10A, 1/2" drill) on slow speed. Had to crank speed up to keep it going. Dry grain takes less, but it does take some beef on these since they're grinding rather than just squeezing.
 
Here's a figure: A LOT. I conditioned my malt this weekend and the drill had a hard time starting (10A, 1/2" drill) on slow speed. Had to crank speed up to keep it going. Dry grain takes less, but it does take some beef on these since they're grinding rather than just squeezing.

Yeah, but when I turn it by hand it doesn't seem like it takes much force. I really want to figure out a way to get a rough measurement before I drop the coin on a motor that might not work. Hmmmm..... I have a digital handheld luggage scale. I could connect that to the handle of the mill and pull it around then do the math from there. That ought to get me close. I've also thought about taking the motor out of one of those harbor freight drills and figuring out a way to mount it. More ideas than time.
 
Yeah, you have read that in another thread here. So have I. I just don't have access to spare wiper motors from semi tractors. I think that the wiper motor that monsterguts sells for animating Halloween decorations might have enough oomph to do it. I just don't have a torque wrench to check how much torque it takes to turn the mill, with grain in it.

Those big semi wiper motors are readily available from junked trucks online....and it's not like I don't have a gigantic 12VDC power supply. It's just that I don't want the level of complexity that would go into that kind of installation.
 
Yeah, but when I turn it by hand it doesn't seem like it takes much force. I really want to figure out a way to get a rough measurement before I drop the coin on a motor that might not work. Hmmmm..... I have a digital handheld luggage scale. I could connect that to the handle of the mill and pull it around then do the math from there. That ought to get me close. I've also thought about taking the motor out of one of those harbor freight drills and figuring out a way to mount it. More ideas than time.

I can break a bolt loose easier than my drill, too...but I tire faster :D
 
I think I might add some sheetmetal at the screws in the bucket to reinforce it.

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Looks to me like:

1. Homer bucket is thin plastic and maybe a bit flimsy
2. The screws look to close together, try spacing the screws as far apart as possible...even it you have to angle them and they will support the mill better.
 
Looks to me like:

1. Homer bucket is thin plastic and maybe a bit flimsy
2. The screws look to close together, try spacing the screws as far apart as possible...even it you have to angle them and they will support the mill better.

The homer bucket is pretty flimsy. I used deck screws which have a pretty small head and I am a bit worried they will pull through over time. I have some pan head screws to change them out with and maybe add some sheetmetal. The mill is supported ok I tried tipping the bucket and everything and it doesn't move.

I went with your design so if I get a water bottle for a hopper all I have to do is get a new lid.
 
The homer bucket is pretty flimsy. I used deck screws which have a pretty small head and I am a bit worried they will pull through over time. I have some pan head screws to change them out with and maybe add some sheetmetal. The mill is supported ok I tried tipping the bucket and everything and it doesn't move.

I went with your design so if I get a water bottle for a hopper all I have to do is get a new lid.

A couple of washers should be more than enough to keep them from tearing through the bucket.
 
Here is my revision. I didn't have any washers on hand small enough so I used some 24 GA sheet metal. Hemmed over the short sides so that when the screws tightened they wouldn't distort the metal and leave any sharp edges. This is so solid I could probably stand on the mill. Plus it adds some junk to it. ;-)

imag01231-56179.jpg
 
Here is my revision. I didn't have any washers on hand small enough so I used some 24 GA sheet metal. Hemmed over the short sides so that when the screws tightened they wouldn't distort the metal and leave any sharp edges. This is so solid I could probably stand on the mill. Plus it adds some junk to it. ;-)

imag01231-56179.jpg

You've got my favorite tool next to your bucket there. I can do just about anything with a set of channel locks. I'm still just clamping my drill on a 2x4 and setting it on the top of a homer bucket. After revisiting this thread I'll have to change that.
 
Looks good w/ the plate reinforcement....I'm lazy therefore spaced the screws out at the maximum. Those HD buckets are a bit thin.

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Got my corona mill in the mail, and just picked up a 50lb bag of 2-row and a 50lb bag of Vienna. Gonna have to rig me up some ugly junk so I can start milling and brewing!
 
If I am currently only using steeping grains, do I even need to rig anything up? I'm only rolling maybe 1-2 lbs worth of grain generally. I just bought this mill as it's cheap and should do what I need it for. My only thing is I may replace that cotter pin, it looks rough and I don't know how good of a job itself doing. I also didn't get a shroud near the wheels.
 
If I am currently only using steeping grains, do I even need to rig anything up? I'm only rolling maybe 1-2 lbs worth of grain generally. I just bought this mill as it's cheap and should do what I need it for. My only thing is I may replace that cotter pin, it looks rough and I don't know how good of a job itself doing. I also didn't get a shroud near the wheels.

I cut out a milk jug (cut the top off, then cut a slit lengthwise about halfway down) and wedged it over the grinding plates. It does a fine job, FWIW.
 
If I am currently only using steeping grains, do I even need to rig anything up?

Only if you want to IMO...if you get a lousy crush, send it through again. When you start w/ AG and larger grain bills, motorizing and setting the mill pays dividends...but for just a pound or so...RDWHAHB

If you are grinding outside, then who really cares about a bit of dust and a few stray flying grain bits...but if you are inside or in a finished basement, making a mess is just more work to clean up, and not a preferred option.
 
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Besides the feed screw that brad is talking about above..some people also tweek it by adding some washers where the plate is attached by the wingnuts on each side.

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I don't know if you can see but the washers are shiny in this picture above.

I like that set-up where the adjuster is all the way in and you just add washers instead. It beats guessing. I have browsed about 11 pages and didn't see the size of those washers, do you recall as I know this thread is dated...? I have a True Value about a mile away.

I also want to get rid of the cotter pin but fear I may F that up so may leave as is for now.

Slowly rigging my mill up. Hope to use it the next time I brew (all I need is steeping grains though).
 
Some mills need to use washers others don't. Washers are used if the mill cannot be adjusted outward and only provides a flour type crush. If the mill can be adjusted, the washers are not needed. The washers provide range for adjustment, they are not the adjustment...the threaded adjustment is still used to fine tune.
 
Attached is the crush I got for Caramel 10. If too fine, please advise.

If I can get that cotter pin off I think I need to replace that. The spin wheel seems too wobbly.

Once I rig my entire mill up, I will post pics.

IMAG0783.jpg
 
Checking your crush w/ crystal malt is not the best idea as crystal malts are roasted and easily broken...aka friable. It is not really a bad thing if the mill plate wobbles and is loose, just tighten the mill down until all the grains are broken...NO WHOLE PIECES OF GRAIN...it's that simple. What you show is not too fine IMHO.

If you have a bad crush...repeat.
 
Checking your crush w/ crystal malt is not the best idea as crystal malts are roasted and easily broken...aka friable. It is not really a bad thing if the mill plate wobbles and is loose, just tighten the mill down until all the grains are broken...NO WHOLE PIECES OF GRAIN...it's that simple. What you show is not too fine IMHO.

If you have a bad crush...repeat.

Well right now majority of the grains I will be crushing are crystal/caramel malts and just grains that can be steeped. I guess if I'm getting the crush I need I don't necessarly have to replace the cotter pin, etc. The only thing I want to do now is create something to where the grain doesn't fly. I'm probably going to mill in my basement and don't want to create an environment that may welcome rodents (i.e. grain on the floor).
 
see link below for mounting your mill in a bucket...works well for milling indoors w/out making a mess IME.

took your idea and ran with it...i like the idea of pulling the grinder out all at once and having a pail of crushed grain plus it takes up the same amount of space.
just finished tnite so i still have the stock hopper planing on getting a 5 gallon
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who8ly.jpg

sry for the crooked picture haven't posted pics to a forum in years
 
Got the mill last week, picked up a pair of white HD buckets over the weekend, and threw it together when I got home from work tonight (with a homebrew pale ale giving an admirable assist).

I decided to leave the included hopper connected to the mill, and set it low enough that I can snap the lid on the bucket. I will be picking up a 5gal water jug soon, and will use the water for my next batch of beer. once the jug is soon, I will cut the bottom out and use it as a grain hopper, as shown previously in this thread.

I used 3 blocks of 2x4 screwed to near the bottom of the bucket to support it on top of the second bucket. The bottom of the mill bucket is completely cut out so the grain can fall into the second, collection bucket.

I will be going by the hardware store tomorrow to pick up a metric bolt so that I can use a drill to drive the mill. The way the buckets I used are formed, I can't use the included hand crank.

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Where is the cheapest place online now to get these mills? I need something easier to crush my specialty grains.
 

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