My Ugly Junk- Corona Mill Station...

[tre9er]

If you want good speed control use a cheap corded drill and a router speed controller from Harbor Freight or something similar. Then you can use a nylon zip tie to activate the trigger on the drill, be sure to secure the drill from spinning before letting it go or it could get really messy.

The pictured drill has an RPM dial, set to "low", and a trigger-lock. 10A 1/2" slow-speed D-handle drill, Harbor Freight, $34.

 

[loud1]

The pictured drill has an RPM dial, set to "low", and a trigger-lock. 10A 1/2" slow-speed D-handle drill, Harbor Freight, $34.

That works too.

 

[rekoob]

Thought I would post mine. Been done for a few months and I use I drill. works great!

 

[CHefJohnboyardee]

I need to tweak mine. A 2# hopper is the pits!!!!! Luckily I know some scroungers and I have a soy sauce bucket from work to sacrifice. A couple of #10 cans too.

 

[tre9er]

I need to tweak mine. A 2# hopper is the pits!!!!! Luckily I know some scroungers and I have a soy sauce bucket from work to sacrifice. A couple of #10 cans too.

I highly recommend the water-dispenser-bottle. 16# in it Saturday no problem.

 

[loud1]

I have found new empty water dispenser bottles at Wal-Mart for $7.00 or so, but not every Wal-Mart has them, only the ones that sell water dispensers.

 

[BeardedIdiot]

Has anybody ever used something besides a power drill to run their corona mill? I'm thinking about pulling the trigger on a mill, and I have access to a 1/2 HP, 1725 RPM Franklin Martin motor for free. I was thinking that I could pick up one of these to vary the RPM's for the mill:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001JHQ3G8/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

The motor is wired for 110V, and the case says it runs 6.8 amps max at 110V.

A positive of the motor is that I could also use it if I ever upgraded to a roller mill.

 

[wilserbrewer]

I'm not sure if that controller would succesfully slow down that motor to an acceptable range. My opinion and experience is that it is easier and cheaper to use a harbor freight 1/2 drill to power a mill, rather than a free motor after buying all that is needed to make it work. Of course, YMMV

 

[tre9er]

Has anybody ever used something besides a power drill to run their corona mill? I'm thinking about pulling the trigger on a mill, and I have access to a 1/2 HP, 1725 RPM Franklin Martin motor for free. I was thinking that I could pick up one of these to vary the RPM's for the mill:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001JHQ3G8/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

The motor is wired for 110V, and the case says it runs 6.8 amps max at 110V.

A positive of the motor is that I could also use it if I ever upgraded to a roller mill.

So long as your RPM's are below about 300, it should be fine. Make sure you'll have enough HP at the lower RPM's so you don't burn the motor. Lots of people use motors. The drill was as easy as spending $34 and chucking a nut-driver. It has a speed dial built-in and trigger lock.

 

[BeardedIdiot]

So long as your RPM's are below about 300, it should be fine. Make sure you'll have enough HP at the lower RPM's so you don't burn the motor. Lots of people use motors. The drill was as easy as spending $34 and chucking a nut-driver. It has a speed dial built-in and trigger lock.

Well, considering the motor is free, its $28 for the variable RPM switch, or skip the motor and buy a $34 Harbor Freight drill (none of my current drills lock).

Plus I think there would be something nice and ugly about using a motor that's 3-4 times the size of the mill its running...

 

[loud1]

I have to stop reading the DIY section, first i was "forced" to build a pneumatic bottle capper now your making me power a corona style mill with a motor! What are you going to make me do next?

 

[tchuklobrau]

Plus I think there would be something nice and ugly about using a motor that's 3-4 times the size of the mill its running...

+1 isnt that what this thread is sposed to be about? lol nice and ugly

 

[Revvy]

I have to stop reading the DIY section, first i was "forced" to build a pneumatic bottle capper now your making me power a corona style mill with a motor! What are you going to make me do next?

Build a keezer if you don't have one already.....Then an electric brewing setup.

Haven't you figured it out yet, half the fun is the DIY aspect, and there's always another project on the horizon.

 

[wilserbrewer]

Well, considering the motor is free, its $28 for the variable RPM switch, or skip the motor and buy a $34 Harbor Freight drill (none of my current drills lock).

Plus I think there would be something nice and ugly about using a motor that's 3-4 times the size of the mill its running...

$28 variable RPM switch
$ ?? cord
$ ?? coupling to attach motor to mill
$ ?? misc. hardware

This option is far from free...Just my opinion, but the HF drill at $34 is a value for something that you know will work. Will that motor provide enough torque at low RPM's to turn the mill? Not all motors are variable speed, but are typically gear reduced to run slow w/ adequate torque. Not trying to rain on the party...have fun whichever course you choose.

 

[BeardedIdiot]

$28 variable RPM switch
$ ?? cord
$ ?? coupling to attach motor to mill
$ ?? misc. hardware

This option is far from free...Just my opinion, but the HF drill at $34 is a value for something that you know will work. Will that motor provide enough torque at low RPM's to turn the mill? Not all motors are variable speed, but are typically gear reduced to run slow w/ adequate torque. Not trying to rain on the party...have fun whichever course you choose.

The motor is already corded, just have to plug it into the variable RPM switch. I have plenty of misc. hardware laying around the garage to attach the mill and motor to whatever substrate I want.

The only thing I would need to worry about is how to connect the motor to the mill. I don't know exactly what I would use for that, but I could probably find something to fit that wasn't too expensive.

I'm not trying to avoid buying the drill, I just have this motor available to me for free and was seeing if it was feasible to use it.

 

[autobaun70]

I finally reworked mine into a bucket in bucket setup. The original wasn't bad, I mainly just wanted a bigger hopper.

I've done about 3 batches with the bucket in bucket. Between the larger hopper and the dust being eliminates, I love this design.

I added a couple of chunks of scrap wood to space the mill bucket up from the lower bucket just enough to keep one from sticking inside the other. It just so happened that these lined up with the mounting board for the mill, so I just stuck them in place with my finish nailer.

 

[tre9er]

The only issue you'll have with that is if you need to hand-crank if for any reason. I have mine so I can attach the crank outside the bucket (the mill shaft sticks through the bucket) because I had my old drill die on me once.

 

[autobaun70]

The only issue you'll have with that is if you need to hand-crank if for any reason. I have mine so I can attach the crank outside the bucket (the mill shaft sticks through the bucket) because I had my old drill die on me once.

Shouldn't be a problem. I've got multiple drills, and several other methods of spinning it.

 

[tre9er]

Yep, an old hand-drill or a ratchet would work fine.

 

[Stauffbier]

Shouldn't be a problem. I've got multiple drills, and several other methods of spinning it.

This is me. I have 3 drill motors and a couple routers that I could even use if I wanted to. Heck, for that matter I also have a few electric motors that could get the job done. I will NOT hand crank! :rockin:

 

[autobaun70]

This is me. I have 3 drill motors and a couple routers that I could even use if I wanted to. Heck, for that matter I also have a few electric motors that could get the job done. I will NOT hand crank! :rockin:

Hell, I like simple, but I am lazy. I will fire up one of my generators to avoid hand cranking. Or give a high school kid a $20 bill. I'm not cranking.

 

[beernut70]

Here is mine all shiny and new.

I elected to mount it so I could use the handle if needed

The extra hopper is a boiler draft hood I had laying around. I think I might add some sheetmetal at the screws in the bucket to reinforce it.

 

[loud1]

Build a keezer if you don't have one already.....Then an electric brewing setup.

Haven't you figured it out yet, half the fun is the DIY aspect, and there's always another project on the horizon.

I'm going to keep my setup simple for now, I've installed a filtered water supply in my basement for brew water and the water cooler for that matter, built a pneumatic bottle capper, made an immersion wort chiller. Projects on the horizon, motorizing a corona mill with an electric window motor, it's worm drive w/plenty of torque, counter flow wort chiller, mash tun, and maybe a rolling brewstand to make brewday setup easier.

It's a small list but I'm working 2 jobs and I don't have time for much else.

 

[camiller]

... Projects on the horizon, motorizing a corona mill with an electric window motor, it's worm drive w/plenty of torque, ...

Like an automotive power window motor? Got a source or recommendation? I had been trying to locate a windshield wiper motor but most of them seem borderline in terms of torque.

... It's a small list but I'm working 2 jobs and I don't have time for much else.

I know that feeling. AT least my second job is at the LHBS, man I beat up that employee discount.

 

[loud1]

Like an automotive power window motor? Got a source or recommendation? I had been trying to locate a windshield wiper motor but most of them seem borderline in terms of torque.



I know that feeling. AT least my second job is at the LHBS, man I beat up that employee discount.

I got the power window motor from surpluscenter.com but they seem to be out of them, I'll probably burn it up anyway since it isn't 100% duty cycle.

 

[tre9er]

Like an automotive power window motor? Got a source or recommendation? I had been trying to locate a windshield wiper motor but most of them seem borderline in terms of torque.

I *think* I've read about guys using big-rig windshield motors.

 

[BeardedIdiot]

I've got an older garage door opener laying around from when I bought my house and changed it out. Motor still works fine. I'll have to see if I can rig it up to run the corona once I finally order it.

 

[tre9er]

I've got an older garage door opener laying around from when I bought my house and changed it out. Motor still works fine. I'll have to see if I can rig it up to run the corona once I finally order it.

If you maintain use of the garage remote to start it...well that, sir, would be epic.

 

[BeardedIdiot]

Heh. I do still have the garage button, and the wireless car remote. The garage button has got like 20+ feet of wire attached to it... I could operate it from anywhere in the garage, or even from the basement...

 

[rico567]

I'm not sure if that controller would succesfully slow down that motor to an acceptable range. My opinion and experience is that it is easier and cheaper to use a harbor freight 1/2 drill to power a mill, rather than a free motor after buying all that is needed to make it work. Of course, YMMV

I endorse this. I have daydreamed about putting a gearmotor on my setup, but it takes me maybe 10 minutes to grind the biggest batch I make, and setting up and tearing down the ugly junk maybe another 5.....I have no trouble investing 15 minutes in this process. Now If I were to go completely beyond what's allowed and brewed 50 batches a year, that might be another story. But in the meantime, my antique Craftsman 1/2" drill serves the purpose: K.I.S.S.