I just bought one at our local market. I found a metal ball and a metal ring holding it in place inside the part you put the adjuster for the fineness of the crush. Should this be there? I took it out but just want to make sure it isn't some useless part
My Ugly Junk- Corona Mill Station...
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sloanfamilydsm
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Put it back, you need that. It's the "bearing" that goes between your wing screw and the grinding plate
The reason I took it out is because I think the metal ring would lock the ball in place so adjusting the grind wouldn't work because the ball was locked to the closes setting that it was put in. Should I discard the ring and but the ball or put it back with the ball and just reset it every time I change the grind?
sloanfamilydsm
Well-Known Member
You need the ring and ball installed. The ring will keep your ball from getting lost if you open up your grinding plates to clean them. It is a static fit that will move when you adjust your crush.
I got mine from a yard sale for $1. I thought it was a pretty good score.
danthebugman
Well-Known Member
Thanks to this thread I joined the bandwagon a little while back. Here's my set up...
I initially had it set up to use a drill, but after a couple of mechanical failures (namely forgetting to charge the drill) I redid it a bit so I could use the manual crank. Truth be told I like doing it by hand better. I had to plug a few gaps (the duct tape and post cards) because of how I had it set up originally so I'll probably get another bucket and redo it one of these days, but for now I'm really happy with it.
I initially had it set up to use a drill, but after a couple of mechanical failures (namely forgetting to charge the drill) I redid it a bit so I could use the manual crank. Truth be told I like doing it by hand better. I had to plug a few gaps (the duct tape and post cards) because of how I had it set up originally so I'll probably get another bucket and redo it one of these days, but for now I'm really happy with it.
number40fan
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Finally got my junk put together.
Saw this thread when I first got my mill a few years ago and it helped a ton to get a good grind with the tips about the washers and bolt. Happened to look at the last few pages a week ago and saw some of the bucket designs haven't gone back to see who started this revolution but thank you bucket design guy. Your skill with plastic fabrication has inspired many and will probably decrease future cases of "barley lung" due to the dust containment. I salute you.
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Thank you Zibe! Nice looking bucket mount! I added the Corona Mill Bucket System link back to my signature.
Finally got my bucket-in-bucket hacked together with a utility knife and old drill, this is the crush I got with a credit card gap. Enough to fit without any space, just barely too tight to remove it.
Thoughts? Too many whole grains? Some seemed to be cracked but still almost whole, not sure how much more I can dial in before it comes all flour.
Thoughts? Too many whole grains? Some seemed to be cracked but still almost whole, not sure how much more I can dial in before it comes all flour.
Tighten more!
You want zero whole kernels, but can live with a few.
Tha credit card gap pertains to setting roller mills, not really a corona mill.
Keep tightening until there are almost zero whole pieces of grain....
Wilserbrewer
Http://biabbags.webs.com/
Tighten more!
You want zero whole kernels, but can live with a few.
Tha credit card gap pertains to setting roller mills, not really a corona mill.
Keep tightening until there are almost zero whole pieces of grain....
Wilserbrewer
Http://biabbags.webs.com/
Is there any reason why my 20V Dewalt cordless drill? I'm pretty sure this is the model--http://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-20-Volt-Max-Lithium-Ion-Compact-Drill-Drill-Driver-Tool-Only-DCD780B/203316377?N=5yc1vZc7jjZ4j2Z12l3Z12l4Z1z0ucn2Z1z140i3#specifications
I'd rather not buy a new drill, but I also don't want to damage my cordless that I use for everything. It wasn't cheap.
My corona mill should be delivered today and I'm looking forward to trying it out this weekend. Hoping to not have to buy a drill.
I'd rather not buy a new drill, but I also don't want to damage my cordless that I use for everything. It wasn't cheap.
My corona mill should be delivered today and I'm looking forward to trying it out this weekend. Hoping to not have to buy a drill.
Ok, I'll tell you what you want to hear....your Dewalt cordless drill will power your corona mill forever.
Just kidding, for frequent large grain bills I feel a corded drill is best. Try your cordless for a batch and see how it fairs???
Wilserbrewer
Http://biabbags.webs.com/
LandoLincoln
Well-Known Member
My 1/2" heavy duty corded drill sometimes seems like it's getting bogged down. I can only imagine what my cordless drill would do if I tried to crush grains with it. Keep your expensive cordless drill away from your grain mill.
djt17
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I burned up my 3/8" DeWalt corded drill after about 30 batches. (it was used for little else). I now have a 1/2", so far so good; the 3/8" always got a little warm after milling 10# of grain.
Thanks, but what I'm mostly hoping for is that someone can confirm that it won't cause any harm to the drill. It may be a dumb question but I'm not really familiar with the various types of drills and features and have read some people talking about their drills burning out when used this way. Maybe they were just crappy drills?
Do you advise corded because they are generally more powerful, or more durable? This dewalt 20v seems pretty powerful, but like I said, I don't know much about one drill vs another.
Edit: as I typed others answered, thanks! I definitely don't want to mess this one up.
number40fan
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It is the low speed, high torque and the heat generated that will kill a drill.
Your Dewalt drill is a two speed 1/2" drill. On low it should produce enough torque to run a corona mill. I would try it, just don't overwork the drill. Run it for a couple minutes and take a break. If you use the drill within its limitations it should not damage it.
The point everyone is trying to make here is that a $40 1/2" corded drill turns a mill pretty well , and can save wear and tear on a $200 cordless tool in the long term.
My guess is that your drill will spin a corona mill, but that is a nice tool and not cheap...kinda like hauling trash in a new Cadillac, it will likely work, but there are cheaper alternatives that keep the mileage off the nice car....
Cheers!
Wilserbrewer
Http://biabbags.webs.com/
The point everyone is trying to make here is that a $40 1/2" corded drill turns a mill pretty well , and can save wear and tear on a $200 cordless tool in the long term.
My guess is that your drill will spin a corona mill, but that is a nice tool and not cheap...kinda like hauling trash in a new Cadillac, it will likely work, but there are cheaper alternatives that keep the mileage off the nice car....
Cheers!
Wilserbrewer
Http://biabbags.webs.com/
sloanfamilydsm
Well-Known Member
I've been using a 18volt dewalt drill for over 2 years n never had a bit of trouble. My grain bills are usually around 7-10 lbs. I put the drill on the slowest speed and only partially pull the trigger. Hope this helps
Try checking out your local thrift/second hand stores. They always have used power tools in my area. And they're cheap.
BowAholic
Well-Known Member
Got my Corona Mill and found that I have all of the parts needed to create a Fugly Mill...I even have a drill BUT will a huge single speed (450 rpm) DeWalt 7.5 amp D-handle drill be too fast? It sure has more than enough power...
Got my Corona Mill and found that I have all of the parts needed to create a Fugly Mill...I even have a drill BUT will a huge single speed (450 rpm) DeWalt 7.5 amp D-handle drill be too fast? It sure has more than enough power...
Yes, that is what you want...maybe a little quick but it should slow a little under load.
Come to think of it, my old sears 1/2" drill is single speed and works fine.
Wilserbrewer
Http://biabbags.webs.com/
Thanks for the advice everyone. I'll probably try to find a cheap corded drill but use my cordless (carefully) until I find one.
BowAholic
Well-Known Member
Haha! I emailed that guy this morning. It's an hour outta my way but what the hell.
I wouldn't spend 2 hours, $20 gas and $10 for a $10 drill...that's already 15% of the $200 drill your trying to preserve.
Harbor freight has the D handle 1/2" drill for like $43, combine that w a 20% off coupon???
Using your Dewalt a few times shouldn't be a big deal, just not the best long term solution jmo
Wilserbrewer
Http://biabbags.webs.com/
How do you know I don't drive a VOLT? I'm just kidding, and you're probably right. I get SUPER cheap when I start a $35 project then realize that I've got to buy a $35 tool so I start looking for ways to pinch pennies.
sloanfamilydsm
Well-Known Member
If you drove a Volt, you could just jack a wheel off the ground and hook it up to your mill
For anybody interested, you can get a speed reducer to put on the drill to run it at a more appropriate speed. I haven't used mine for this - have been cranking the Corona mil by hand - but I think it should work well. I've had mine many years, so don't remember where I got it or what it cost.
Opiate42
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nealm
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Santa (viz. SWMBO) brought a Corona mill sourced from I think Amazon. It certainly deserves the label junk. The auger plate is held on not by a cotter pin but a bent nail. The plate is fixed tightly to the auger and is not equidistant from the other plate, so it wobbles a bit when turned with the crank. I probably will extract the nail and put in a loose fitting cotter to allow the plate to move a bit.
I intent to buy a couple pounds of 2row to do some small scale test mashes to check various crush setting for efficiency. Mean while Ill be making a two bucket system.
On an other note, do you all grind the base grain separately from specialty grains or just grind them all together.
Neal M
I intent to buy a couple pounds of 2row to do some small scale test mashes to check various crush setting for efficiency. Mean while Ill be making a two bucket system.
On an other note, do you all grind the base grain separately from specialty grains or just grind them all together.
Neal M
On an other note, do you all grind the base grain separately from specialty grains or just grind them all together.
Neal M
I grind all mine together.
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Me too - all together
I grind roasted malts separately because I crush them to powder basically chocolate and darker looking to get all the color out and since they are generally a small part of the bill no need to worry about stuck sparges
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Also go to the beginning of the thread (where they explain the mods) and put in the 8-32nd (I think) screw instead of a cotter pin that and the washers took the wobble out of mine
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I did a batch the other day where I separated the grain out. I had some wheat that was obviously much smaller than the rest of the grain, so I did that by itself. Also, I did all of my specialty malts together. The chocolate malt was definitely smaller than the base malt, and some of the others (Crystal 80 and Brown malt) seemed a bit small too. Then I did all the base malt on its own.
Ended up getting a higher efficiency than I've gotten in a while. Maybe I just need to crush all of it that small to get even higher efficiency, though.
Ended up getting a higher efficiency than I've gotten in a while. Maybe I just need to crush all of it that small to get even higher efficiency, though.
nealm
Well-Known Member
A follow up question for those that grind their grain separately, do you change the setting of the mill for each?
Nealm
Nealm
