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American IPA My 2-time gold winning American IPA

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parrotpoet said:
I sprinkled in two packs of US-05. a bit of overkill perhaps but I've been struggling with stalled fermentations (probably because I'm too invest in a decent aeration system) and wanted to make sure I got full attenuation. about to transfer to secondary. I'll keep ya posted on my FG.

Try raising your fermentation temp to room temp AS SOON as your krausen begins to drop. Usually this is at the 3 day mark. Then make sure you leave it in primary 3 weeks. I think you will be pleased with the results.
 
WhiteEagle1 said:
Just picked up the ingredients for this one...$42. Haven't read a bad thing about it.
Anyone see a problem with using S-04??

no problem with 04, just not my first choice. it will be a slightly different beer but not bad. as far as dry yeast goes it would be my second choice.
 
I made an extract recipe for this, just brewed last night, its my 2nd brew:

steeping grains:
1 lb Crystal 20
1 lb Munich Light 10L

extracts:
3.15 lb Gold LME (from NB--contains some carapils)
6 lb Gold LME--added at end of boil
4 oz pilsen DME

hops:
1 oz Chinook 30 min
1.5 oz Cascade 30 min
1 oz Williamette 15 min
1.5 oz Cascade 15 min
1 oz Williamette 5 min
2 oz Cascade dry hop in secondary

I also put in a teaspoon of Irish moss at 15 min. I left out the carapils since the Gold LME has some in it, and I left out the torrified wheat, since it has to be mashed, hopefully its not super important. Used US-05 and its bubbling away nicely. Adding the 6 lbs LME at the end of the boil should help with hops utilization since I only have a 3 gal boil.
 
Just took a sample of this beer after four days of pitching. I used a second generation of washed us-05 and its almost done fermenting already.

This beer is amazing and I wish it would hurry up cause I need this in my life right now!!! I know a little dramatic but it's really good and I expect this to be my best brew to date. Thanks for the recipe.
 
Try raising your fermentation temp to room temp AS SOON as your krausen begins to drop. Usually this is at the 3 day mark. Then make sure you leave it in primary 3 weeks. I think you will be pleased with the results.

Thanks! good advice. I'm becoming more of a believer in just letting the beer sit in primary undisturbed for at least two weeks to really let the yeast finish the job and clean up. Planning to let this IPA sit for two weeks then drop in my 1oz of cascade to dry hop in primary for another week. then bottle. Mmmm....
 
Hello. I'm a complete beginner (1 failed Coopers kit and 2 batches of all grain still in the bottle - never tried anything else) so please be gentle if these are stupid questions...

What yeast should I use with this recipe?
Is there an alternative to torrified wheat - I'm in S.Africa and I can't get my hands on any?
Presumably I need to work out how much water to use based on the grain bill?

Any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks
 
CopperBeechBrew said:
Hello. I'm a complete beginner (1 failed Coopers kit and 2 batches of all grain still in the bottle - never tried anything else) so please be gentle if these are stupid questions...

What yeast should I use with this recipe?
Is there an alternative to torrified wheat - I'm in S.Africa and I can't get my hands on any?
Presumably I need to work out how much water to use based on the grain bill?

Any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks

You can use american, California, chico ale yeast (like white labs wlp-001) or any "clean" yeast to be safe. I have used white labs English ale yeast on some IPAs in the past as well.

I am not an expert on ingredients but I would use whatever wheat grain you can get.

I am not sure I understand your water question. If your doing full boils, then do whatever you need to do in order to end up with a full carboy while accounting for boil off. I boil 13 gallons to end up with about 11.5 between 2 carboys.
 
Hi

Thanks for the advice. These are the yeasts i can get here:
Safale S-04
Safale US-05
Safbrew S33
Safbrew T-58
Safbrew WB-06
Saflager W34/70

I think i'll try the US05 – got to start somewhere.

Re the water questions, maybe I don;t fully understand the ratio of water to grain but the two brew I've done had specific quantities of grain and water in the recipe so I was basically told exactly what to do. My limitation is my boil volume – I only have a 21litre (5.5gallons) pot so I can safely only boil about 18/19litres (4.8/5gallons). Not totally sure how to calculate how much to mash/sparge etc based on the grain bill from this recipe. Sorry if this is a stupid question but I have to ask!

Thanks again
 
CopperBeechBrew said:
Hi

Thanks for the advice. These are the yeasts i can get here:
Safale S-04
Safale US-05
Safbrew S33
Safbrew T-58
Safbrew WB-06
Saflager W34/70

I think i'll try the US05 – got to start somewhere.

Re the water questions, maybe I don;t fully understand the ratio of water to grain but the two brew I've done had specific quantities of grain and water in the recipe so I was basically told exactly what to do. My limitation is my boil volume – I only have a 21litre (5.5gallons) pot so I can safely only boil about 18/19litres (4.8/5gallons). Not totally sure how to calculate how much to mash/sparge etc based on the grain bill from this recipe. Sorry if this is a stupid question but I have to ask!

Thanks again

Us05 is a great choice. I have heard of some folks using us04 but I understand you need to have the ability to control the fermentation temp to keep it below 68 deg or less (I think it produces some ethers at higher ferm temps which would distract from your malt and hop flavors). I am not familiar with any of the others you listed.

Sorry I can't help more on the water as I have only done partial mashing where I mashed about 8lbs of grain and then topped up with water and DME to get my boil volume and gravity where it needs to be. When I do mash though, the water to grain ratio is between 1.25 to 1.5.
 
I would definitely suggest getting a bigger boil pot so you can do a full boil - but if you can't then you'll have to run off 4.8 gallons of wort from your mash tun, boil it 90 minutes and then take a starting gravity reading. Depending on how much over the mark you are you just add water to bring it up to 5 gallons/correct starting gravity. You can also run off more than 4.8 gallons and boil that separately in a smaller pot and then add it to your main boil. here is a great tool to help you figure out your water to grain ratio.

http://www.brew365.com/mash_sparge_water_calculator.php

and this is a calculator to help figure out how much water to add depending on starting gravity after boil.

http://merrycuss.com/calc/gravityadjustmentwater.html
 
Try raising your fermentation temp to room temp AS SOON as your krausen begins to drop. Usually this is at the 3 day mark. Then make sure you leave it in primary 3 weeks. I think you will be pleased with the results.

Do you also use an aeration system (paint mixer or air pump etc)? or do you just dump into your fermenter and shake a bit? I'm planning to try your approach of raising to room temp after krausen drops on my next batch. but I thought I'd try to aerate more as well. getting tired of my fermentation hitting the dreaded 1.020 stall!
 
Hi, thanks for the advice, much appreciated.

I just noticed something odd, when I view the first post via the HBT iPad app it leaves off the information about the brew - which is partially why I asked about the yeast and volume etc. Screenshots attached of both the iPad view and safari, not sure why it does this.


image-3184162060.jpg



image-2548929181.jpg
 
On a wet and windy Saturday morning here in New Zealand, I spent a very pleasant few hours brewing this recipe (partial mash style).

It's the first time I have done an IPA, so the hop quantity is a fair bit higher than I have encountered previously. Despite straining the wort through a stainless steel sieve when transferring to my fermenter, I was still amazed at the amount of hop material in there. I'm not particularly worried, I'm sure it'll settle over the next few weeks.

I pitched Safale US05 yeast, and despite a slowish start, it is now fermenting furiously. Amazing to watch - the hoppy trub is swirling around as if the beer was boiling, and the airlock bubbling along like a jet engine. Fantastic!

Looks and smells great - can't wait to sample it in a couple of months.
 
64-65 air temp or beer temp? That would be ideal, if not a bit high for room temp. We keep our fermentation room at 62-64 when fermenting an ale like this one and that keeps our beer temp right in the sweet spot. That will vary depending on your setup, but you want the beer to be around or under 68 degrees I believe.
 
illMATTic said:
Will I be fine fermenting at 64-65* ??? It is hard for me to bring the house up much past that in the winter.

Depends on your yeast. But in general, I think those temps are ok for ipa's. Usually have to worry about higher temps with certain yeast strains. Also remember your beer will ferment about 6 deg warmer than ambient.
 
Finally tried some after a month and a couple of week and all I can say is wow. Best beer I've brewed.
 
I tried one after about a week in the bottle and it was a bit rough around the edges yet. After three weeks and a few days in the fridge - they're awesome!
 
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