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Keg line Co2 line length?

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Since you aren't really concerned about the flow rate of CO2 into the system you only need concern yourself with the pressure supplied, essentially thinking that you have infinite volume supply at that pressure on the input side.

Until you have a leak, that is. :)
 
Thanks guys appreciate it, now I am trying to figure liquid side. I bought 6' for each Keg but it looks like that might be too short for the pressure.
 
12.

Always.

It's just easier.

Okay, I put kegs in my hatch at 60°, or 30°, or a chest freezer at 40°.
But I just use 10-12' and it works. The *only* drawback is that since I like having multiple things available at once, the beer in the 12' line will go flat, so you have to drink a little and *THEN* pour a glass sometimes.
 
Thanks balrog, I am going 11, 11, and 7 good numbers. the 11's get the IPA's and Pilsners, Blondes, the 7 gets Stouts at a lower psi of course. I had to go back and order 11' more to accommodate, I orig bought 18' for the 3... we are obviously talking about the liquid or beer side for those stumbling across this thread.
 
Thanks guys appreciate it, now I am trying to figure liquid side. I bought 6' for each Keg but it looks like that might be too short for the pressure.
Keep the 6 ft lines, get flow control faucets and forget about all the calculators....unless you like fighting your system....You can thank me later when your enjoying your beer instead of complaining about the pour
 
JohnnyRotten, That would be a nice upgrade, but at 30-100 a pop... Which ones did you settle on?
 
As others have said just use the proper length line and carry on. No need for flow control faucets with a proper setup. Cheers
 
As others have said just use the proper length line and carry on. No need for flow control faucets with a proper setup. Cheers
I agree with u also but I do like my flow controll when I am filling bottles or growlers off my kegerator...turn the flow way down and slowly fill it ..plus I hated the old cheap faucets so I needed 2 upgrade anyways
 
I agree with u also but I do like my flow controll when I am filling bottles or growlers off my kegerator...turn the flow way down and slowly fill it ..plus I hated the old cheap faucets so I needed 2 upgrade anyways
Yes there great for the purposes you described which is what there designed for. I don't agree that purposely using too short of lines for no reason and then having to keep the flow turned down to compensate is good advice. Additionally if you have to crank the flow down just to get a good normal everyday pour you won't be able to use them for there actual purpose anymore which is " growler fills and hard to pour brands" as you won't have any adjustment left as all your brews are now "hard to pour" if that makes sense. Cheers
 
Yes there great for the purposes you described which is what there designed for. I don't agree that purposely using too short of lines for no reason and then having to keep the flow turned down to compensate is good advice. Additionally if you have to crank the flow down just to get a good normal everyday pour you won't be able to use them for there actual purpose anymore which is " growler fills and hard to pour brands" as you won't have any adjustment left as all your brews are now "hard to pour" if that makes sense. Cheers
You dont keep them turned down to compensate for short lines. They're just there if you need them. Maybe on a hot summer day when the tower gets warm and usually only on the first pour.

I almost never use the flow control and have 4 foot lines and a tower.

I use sanke kegs and have a feeling the different design than corny kegs makes a difference. Could be different with a corny
 
Thanks balrog, I am going 11, 11, and 7 good numbers. the 11's get the IPA's and Pilsners, Blondes, the 7 gets Stouts at a lower psi of course. I had to go back and order 11' more to accommodate, I orig bought 18' for the 3... we are obviously talking about the liquid or beer side for those stumbling across this thread.

You can go with longer lines for ALL of your taps. The only "disadvantage" to having too-long lines (like you're talking about with a lower psi) is a slower pour. That way, you don't have to overthink where they kegs go with each line- they all work.
 
I've been researching a bit and came across this contradiction or maybe I did not understand it?
Although it is about carbing a keg it went on to talk about line length and how foam is caused by the lack of co2 not too much...

This *article/link states:
https://www.baderbrewing.com/articles/corny-keg-carbonating-instructions

But this calculator as well as others here, recommend longer lines than say 4'
http://www.mikesoltys.com/2012/09/17/determining-proper-hose-length-for-your-kegerator/



Excerpt from that *link and makes me ask.

If you have a keg set to 12 p.s.i and push it through a 3/16" line for 4' does that mean you will have Zero pressure at the end or at the faucet?


*Beer line pressure loss:

For every foot of length of your 3/16” beer line coming out of your keg, there is a pressure drop of 3 PSI due to the restriction of the hose. This is the most common size beer line hose used in a home environment. That means for every 4 foot of hose, there is a 12 PSI drop in pressure when the beer gets to the faucet (and your beer glass). If you have less pressure coming out of your regulator, you WILL have foaming problems! Remember this when you are setting up your kegging system. Longer hoses will require higher pressures to dispense properly
Larger diameter hoses have less pressure loss, and are commonly used in long lengths of hose in commercial environments. In these cases, a long line of hose is used for the majority of the distance, with a short line of 3/16” connected at the end of the run.
For every foot of ¼” hose there is a pressure drop of .85 PSI per foot, and for every foot of 5/16” hose there is a pressure drop of 0.4 PSI per foot.

Moreover
Kegging tips:
  • Your beer MUST be cold to absorb Co2. Under 50º will work, but cooler is better for absorbing Co2. You cannot carbonate beer above about 55º
  • Contrary to popular belief, foaming is caused by low Co2 pressure, not by high Co2 pressure. Most foaming is a result of your Co2 regulator being set under 8 lbs of pressure. Occasionally it is also caused by a partial blockage of the outlet hose or connectors.
 
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Use Mike's calculator, ignore any self-purported tool that claims 3/16" ID beer line has a 2-3 psi per foot equivalent resistance.
That's complete nonsense that has been propagated for years due to someone misreading a manufacturer's performance specification and totally ignoring the flow rate that high resistance would require.

Or simply use 1 foot of 3/16" ID line per PSI. That'll put you in the ballpark.

The statements about carbonation are ridiculous as well. One can carbonate at pretty near any temperature by adjusting the CO2 pressure per a well characterized curve...

Cheers!
 
Thanks for helping me out on that day trippr. Maybe he ought to add Master to the name of his brewery....LOL (see first link name)
 

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