gifty74
Well-Known Member
Filled and purged a few times, then set the lid with 15psi.
Update, I just tasted my beer. The mouthfeel is very soft - can only describe it as velvety.
It was burst carbed with 40lbs from Wednesday afternoon. I turned the gas off yesterday to let the head pressure dissolve into solution.
It has a distinct fruit tang like fresh citrus (not saison-like at all), but the Citra is the star of the show.
Very nice! so it all comes off as distinctly IPA?
I mixed 007 and 3638 once. I got some weird feedback like earthiness and saison-like. I've been wanting to try 1318 to see what comes out the other end.What keeps coming up in the back of my mind (after sorting out these ratios): 1318 with a bit of 3638 (and a pinch of T-58?).
@couchsending did you put any pressure on this keg when you closed it up to seal things up? I see conflicting anecdotes on priming in a keg beer smith's calculator for example requires half the amount of sugar for a keg vs bottling, and I'm wondering how adding say 25psi might effect that.
Long and very active thread, but thought I might interject on natural carbing. I used this method on my last DIPA, and it was the best by far that I've produced (also shooting for that mecca DIPA, that I just have to have on tap all the time), and mostly because of how long the flavor & aroma has remained stable. I had a spunding fail the batch before in that I put the spunding valve on at 1.024'ish, and the yeast gave up at 1.020 and didn't finish out. The last one I let finish out completely in primary, and then put in keg, with dry hops, and added the beersmith amount of priming sugar (which yes, is a lot less than you would add for bottling). Worked awesome, just had to wait 2 weeks. However, I usually was waiting 1 week to get proper carbonation by the force method I had been using for the past 10 years. Natural carb made the most dramatic improvement in a beer than anything I've done in recent history. Uses up most o2 picked (can't say all) up during transfer, and adds complexity in that the bubbles are finer and just feel different. I have a Belg Golden Strong finishing up natural carb right now and will be tapping next week. Can't wait to confirm my method and I might be converted to doing this from here on out for the benefits it provides. I've never had a DIPA that was this drinkable and retained this much dry hop aroma as this last one has.
One note! Learn from my lesson, carbing up to 28-30psi at room temp (which gets your around 12 or so at 36F) will not stay in liquid if you try to open the keg! I relieved all the pressure I could, and it still would not release the lid to let me get dry hops out. I was finally able to free the lid and the beer came gushing out like a vulcano. Unreal. Lost 1/4 of the keg. Lesson is, cool to fridge temps before trying to open the keg.
So... no biscuit, aromatic, honey, or light crystal in Julius:
(These dudes on Twitter seem familiar...)
Hi Guys, I’m new to the forum. Thank you for all this great information! I’ve been brewing on and off for about ten years now and have been reading here for the past couple years. Finally decided to join and help with this experimentation. I’ve been trying to replicate the Treehouse "flavor" for the past year. The closest I’ve gotten has been Nates “Hoppy Things” recipe used with Conan yeast and a couple tweaks. The beer was great!
Last week I brewed that recipe again, however, I took your guys advice/experimentation and used the same yeast ratio @marshallb used - 1g wb-06 for 24 hours, then 11g of s-04 and 1g of t-58 until finished for a 5 gal batch. There is no way for me to control temperature yet so I fermented around 68-72 degrees. On day four the beer looked great hazy/juicy in the carboy, but then started to clear. The night before kegging, I cold crashed for about 12 hours in ice water and the beer got pretty damn clear. I kegged yesterday morning and forced carbed just to try a bit and as @melville pointed out, the beer is dry. There’s not much going on in the flavor/nose department as well and there is barely any haziness. Not sure if my temperatures caused the dry and clear beer. Drinks more like a west coast IPA. It’s pretty good, just not Treehouse –y. Any idea why the haze dropped out so much? Maybe mash temps were too high? Yeast ratio and ferment temp off? I’ll give it a week in the keg and report back. Back to the drawing board!
I just had this happen with my 4th gen Conan on a SAP clone attempt. Mashed at 154f (MO, 2 row, C60), whirlpooled 6 oz of Chinook and Simcoe, pitched at 68f, Day 2 DH with another 6 oz. Bottled (I know...) Day 6. Started drinking Day 14. Its as clear as a West Coast. I fermented at 66 for the first two days and let it rise to 70 for another two then finished it at 72 for the final two.
I bottled at 1.010, which I know is very dry, but when testing from the bottle I got 1.007. I think there may be another yeast in play??? I wanted to continue fermentation in the bottle to scavenge O2. Hopefully the beer is just young and I get more pine on the nose, but I know now that I am going to have to start kegging.
I would think that mashing at 154 and getting 1.007 would be rather odd for Conan especially if you have temp control. How much yeast did you pitch?
There's a big difference in turbidity from yeast/protiens and from polyphenols. My beers are always much prettier with that glowy orange appearance once the yeast flocks out. As well, you don't need massive proteins to create haze. Hop acids and polyphenols will cloud a beer without the heavier proteins, of which I believe will pull your hops out of suspension anyway. So a beer without those heavier particles is quite a bit more stable.
What was your OG from a 154* mash?With my 6 oz DH, the yeast flocking out may have "grabbed" the polyphenols and hop acids resulting in a clear beer? Using 1318 and the same process I get haze. I am just curious how I could get a clear beer with 12 oz of hops after flame out, following the NEIPA hop schedule
I'm at day 10 on my second effort. Dropping the temp today and then transferring to a keg with:
Going to condition at 72F for a week or so and see what happens.
- loose pellets
- CBC-1
- sugar
(I have a filter for the dip tube, so for this effort, will just see how it serves without transferring to a "clean" keg)
Did you get a gravity reading before going into the keg?
You sure that apple tartness isn't acetaldehyde? It was really quite strong in the beer I made with S-04. Even after bumping the temps and letting it rest after ferment was over it was quite strong. I left it for three more days and it dissipated but was still there in the background ever so slightly. I thought it was because in attempt to dump some Trub from my conical I ended up getting a bunch of yeast so there wasn't enough left to effectively clean up after itself?? It was also my first time using dry yeast. I rehydrated it as directed so I'm not 100% sure what happened as it was new territory for me.
what was your og from a 154* mash?
I mentioned this awhile back, but it likely got buried quickly with the rampant posting. I have clean isolates of all 4 yeasts discussed in this thread. If anyone would like them, I am happy to send them out (I use 1.5 ml cryo-vials that have plenty of yeast for starters up to 1.5 L in size). It is possible (even highly likely?) that what TH is using isn't 100% the same as the commercially available Fermentis strains and that's assuming the genetic IDs are perfect. Keep in mind that, by DNA fingerprinting, WY1968 and Conan (TYB) had almost identical DNA banding patterns (https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showpost.php?p=8032549&postcount=165).
Would prefer a trade of some kind, but can also do it for even money on shipping.
I would do this in a heartbeat if I thought I could work out the ratios as precisely in liquid as I can with the dry. Time for a Patreon! Send a beer and a tip and you do a fingerprint and send an isolate back.
BTW, are there higher res versions of the fingerprints you've done so far?
Also when I pull them into photoshop, I can make a case that the Double Shot isolate looks sort of like the Julius isolate which turned out to be T-58. That of course makes no sense unless, they use a blend in DS or they use T-58 for conditioning with CBC-1/F2 (which granted, also makes no sense).
Enter your email address to join: