Home theater room treatment (bass response)

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I posted this thread at hometheatershack.com, but I almost expect better answers here at HBT. My home theater equipment, by their standards, is almost the equivalent of BMC, so I'm betting on a lot of "upgrade your stuff" answers, along with "remodel your room." I don't want to upgrade my equipment or tackle a big remodel job. This setup wasn't cheap, even if the audiophiles disagree. Anyway, for those who have experience with this sort of thing, how would you attack this one?

Here is my A/V equipment:

Epson 3010e Projector
Yamaha RX-V671 Receiver
Sony SS-F6000 Front Speakers
Polk CS-20 Center Speaker
Sony SS-B3000 Surround/Rear Surround Speakers
2 BIC F12 Subwoofers
2 Buttkicker LFE Transducers w/1kW amp
FBQ2496 Parametric EQ
(no room treatment...yet)

I'm measuring using a self-calibrated Soundblaster Live! USB card (loopback in place), Xenyx 802, and ECM 8000 with the stock REW cal file.

In my quest to create the ultimate man cave, I've had to make some compromises. The homebrew (beer) equipment on the left side of the room stays. I know it may contribute some ringing and is acoustically poor. The fridge on the right stays - despite the fact that it creates two more tall corners. The tile border is permanent - designed by the previous owner for a pool table - not in the budget to replace it.

So, I have an acoustic nightmare on my hands. There is a room mode (correct terminology, I think) at 45Hz and all of its harmonics (I think). There are significant multi-frequency nulls all over my desired listening position(s). No amount of sub placement experimentation fixed those (bass crawl, test tones, measurement, etc). I tried the recommended mid wall, two corner, stacked, and front wall placements for my two BIC F12s. I also tried each sub individually, as well as phase adjustments. The best results (both heard and measured) were from the present configuration (front wall, under the mains), with both phase switches set to 0. I'll include a graph of my right seat listening position, as the nulls seem most pronounced in that location with all sub placement options. If I could fix those deep troughs and ringing, I think I'd have a decent house curve on my hands.

The overall room dimensions are 23' wide x 21' deep, with an 8.5' flat ceiling. On the right side, there are 3 doors, one covered by the blackout curtain seen in the picture. In the back right, there is a 6'x6' alcove for the entry door from the house. In the back left, there is a 6'x3' alcove for the bar/closet area. The speakers are laid out symmetrically, with the surrounds hanging from a lateral 16" mid-wall beam, and the rears on top of wall cabinets over the bar.

My overarching question is: How would you treat this room? I have roughly 10" of space behind the screen, and I can treat at least three vertical corners from the floor to ceiling (front left, front right, rear right). I assume I probably want to put some foam in the space over the wall cabinets and against that mid-wall beam. In the interest of budget constraints, I'd like to use Roxul Safe and Sound. I can buy 12 packs of 3.5" thick sheets from Lowe's for around $40. Two thicknesses of that should be effective...I think(?).

On to the pics and graphs - in addition to the ugly room mode(s), I have a spike at 50-60Hz, and another at 95. The room seems to resonate badly between 50-70Hz. I tried both subs individually and both 0 and 180 phase settings. The 0 phase setting seemed best, so that is what I'm including in this post. Individually, the subs had very similar response curves to the one measured with both, so I know they're not canceling one another.

Room front:
scaledimg1361.jpg


Room left rear:
scaledimg1363.jpg


Room right rear:
scaledimg1362.jpg


Both subs, no EQ:
bothbypass.jpg


Waterfall, both subs no EQ:
bothbypasswaterfall.jpg


Both subs, 3 parametric filters active in an effort to reduce the 50-60 and 95Hz spikes:
botheqd.jpg


Waterfall for both subs with the 3 EQ filters active:
botheqdwaterfall.jpg


7.2 channels, no EQ:
7chbypass.jpg


7.2 channels, same 3 EQ filters:
7cheqd.jpg


7.2 channels, EQd, measured from the right seat (the worst in the house):
7cheqdrightseat.jpg
 
I looked up the Roxul Safe and Sound and all they list is STC, but they do not list what frequency or frequencies this was measured at. Since you've got standing waves from 50-70Hz if the measurements for the Roxul Safe and Sound were taken at higher frequencies they may not even be rated for that low of a tone. You want to find something specifically tested to reduce lower frequencies such as mineral wool or Owens Corning 703 and 705. You can then build absorption panels out of the material you choose and hang them on walls kind of like this.

acoustic-panels-2x4-alt.jpg


As far as the area behind the couch and the brew area, if you could rig up some type of curtain that would wrap around that may be your best option as far as price goes. That's a pretty large area to cover.
 
Here's a link to the Roxul product I mentioned.

If the link is broken, type 138683 (the item number) into the search function on the Lowe's website. For the price, I'm tempted to buy one package and just try it. However, from the Roxul tech data, it's pretty low density (2 lbs/cubic ft, if I read correctly), so it may not be very effective for the application.

Thanks a ton for taking a look. A curtain is not likely to happen - the room needs to stay functional as a bar and brewery. I know I'm never going to get a perfect curve given the constraints I've laid out. However, I would like to tame the response a bit and at least improve the nulls.
 
All I got was a page to "shop windows and doors". Is there a specific link I should click on from there?

Since the curtain is out another thing you could do would be to build portable bass traps. Find material that absorbs low frequencies and build it into a frame that you can put on castors. That way you can wheel them in place when you're ready to watch a movie and move them when it's time to brew/serve drinks.
 
Portable traps could work. Permanent mounted ones on the walls/corners would be far more ideal. I edited the above post to include an item number. The 3.5" thickness seems advantageous, but the density may be too low, even with a double or triple ply trap.
 
I found this on gearslutz.com. This is by no way, shape or form my research. BTW, the guys who post on gearslutz usually know what the hell they're talking about.

By the way, concerning Roxul products:
I spent a number of hours checking the Roxul website, looking at forums, asking questions, leaving messages for reps, talking to resellers, etc.

Roxul "rockboard" products (i.e. 2'x4' "board" panels similar to OC703/705) are listed by various names:
- RHT__
- RXL__
- Roxul___

But as far as I can ascertain -- are the same thing. The DIFFERENCE is in the densities. So, you might find locally RHT 40 & 80 or RXL 60. "Rockboard" or "mineral board" seem to be casual labels rather than actual product items on the Roxul website.

Meanwhile, AFB seems lighter, less dense.
There are "facing" boards with higher fire ratings (that have been tested, and cost a little more -- otherwise performing the same).
And Safe-N-Sound is marketed at some bigbox stores -- more of a batting product -- quite similar to the floppier 4lb Roxul (board products).

Please correct/edit any info. here that is wrong or misleading. These are the conclusions of my research.

Rule of thumb here seems to be:

For Broadband traps: Roxul 60 (6 lb boards, 4.5 lb really) is great. 3=4". Roxul 80 (8 lb) may be better. Stiffer. A little denser. Always use an airgap up to the width of your panel to increase effectiveness.

For Bass Traps: Roxul 80 (8 lb - 5.8 lb really) is great. 4-6". Use an airgap. Consider adding a Kraft paper membrane (for potentially deeper bass response, and reflecting back to the room some of the highs. This is the theory).

For BIG Bass Traps: (i.e. significant corner trapping)-- Use LESS DENSE material, i.e. Roxul 40 or Safe N Sound. 17" corner superchunks (24" facing) or 12" soffets -- or larger. Fully pack -- leave no airspace. The air already moves through the less dense material.

Craig
 
That's the conclusion I'm slowly drawing as I research further. I linked to Roxul 15, which is likely to be useless for the application. I'll see if I can order something a little more substantial, then start testing with placement.

Lowe's item 89017 is the "Safe and Sound" product I originally mentioned. It's a bit more expensive than the ComfortBatt stuff I linked before (mistakenly calling it "Safe and Sound'), but a 2 to 3-ply trap may be effective for the application at hand, no?
 
If your setup is sub-standard, mine is in the toilet. I'm still using an everything in one box little home theater sound setup I bought at Costco ten years ago. I did calibrate it with an audio meter and a calibration disc, but that was mostly a matter of just getting the levels right from the viewing/listening position. That being said, the video calibration on the disc was more comprehensive and worked a treat!
 
Whomever suggested 703/705 panels made a good call.

Further, with your low ceiling you'll be fighting nodes all across the spectrum. Consider panels on as much of the ceiling as you can get.

The "notch" in your ceiling is tricky. Treat the face of it, but only cover have of the surface area 1 square foot at a time.

Less EQ is better. The more you process your signal the more damage you do. Don't let spikes in response scare you. Chasing a razor flat chart is a waste of time, trust your ears or someone who has a good pair.

And you'll think I am nuts, but DO NOT point those front speakers straight back. They are gonna peg your cabinets and make all kinds of mid range resonant crap. X-Y those bad boys on 25-35 degree angles, and put rubber washers in your cabinet door hinges.

Also do your measurements with bodies in the seats. It'll look and sound drastically different with 1 VS 5 guys in there. Program settings for both.
 
Long story short, I made too many assumptions about my acoustically poor room. I should've taken the time to properly measure when I put the subs in the corners. Some good advice over at HTS yielded this greatly improved result:

Both subs, three filters active in the 50-70 Hz range:
botheqdcorners.jpg


Both subs, three filters:
botheqdcornerswaterfall.jpg


Corner sub placement made a huge improvement, both measured and perceived during movie/music playback.

I'll take your advice, ske, and do some measurements with people present. The fronts are canted about 20º inward, resting on the floor now. I doubt I can cover the ceiling with acoustic panels, but I will get some mineral wool and experiment with some strategic room treatment to try and tame some of the resonance.

Thanks again for all the help!
 
This post has me thinking now. My system is lower even than you have. Tx-sr605,Cerwin-Vega ls12 mains with a 15 inch vega sub. Center is matched vega and random bookshelf speakers surround. Small square room w/ curtains all around. I know its Vega stuff, but bass resonates bad in the room at some frequencies. If I turn it down to stop resonation, voices are hard to make out.

I'm using digital out from media pc to receiver and I can't find any way to tune the bass curve. Think the sound blaster card might help me? or at least be a step in the right direction? I have no way to control the EQ right now
 
Yuri, what did you use to apply the parametric curves once you had them designed? I have heard of using the Behringer feedback destroyer as an Sub EQ. But this stuff is new to me. I would have thought it would be easier to change the audio profile coming off the computer itself.

I've got some frequency mapping software off hometheatershack.com now I need to find a good calibrated mic so I can get a good map.
 
Here is my A/V equipment:

Epson 3010e Projector
Yamaha RX-V671 Receiver
Sony SS-F6000 Front Speakers
Polk CS-20 Center Speaker
Sony SS-B3000 Surround/Rear Surround Speakers
2 BIC F12 Subwoofers
2 Buttkicker LFE Transducers w/1kW amp
FBQ2496 Parametric EQ

Here is mine;

Samsung 67" OLED DLP
Yamaha Rx-Z9 with parametric.
B&W DM604 Series 2 Fronts
RCA 5014 Center, Presence, Side Surr, Rear Surr.
Definitive Tech 15" Sub.

All audio calibrated using Sencore SoundPro and DAG 5161 tone gen.


Now, my Definitive Tech sub has burned through it's second pair of amps/pre-amps in 7 years. Rather than getting yet another set of amp/pre-amp for it I am thinking it's time for something else. Comparable subs are outrageous in price (the DT was originally open box) and I have been looking at teh BIC subs.

Any complaints about yours?

The prices are definitely easy to handle. And I would not be surprised if the response was good too. The cheap $20 RCA bookshelf speakers I use for surrounds actually have a flatter response within their frequency range than our Bowers and Wilkins.
 
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