• Please visit and share your knowledge at our sister communities:
  • If you have not, please join our official Homebrewing Facebook Group!

    Homebrewing Facebook Group

Grainfather!!

Homebrew Talk

Help Support Homebrew Talk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
70 batches with the Grainfather Connect 220v and never had any problems with anything. I do nothing to my Grainfather, besides recirculating PBW throught the pump and CFC for 30 minutes after brewing days are over. It just works, but it sounds like there could be some specific issues with the 110v version.

PS: Beeru ---> I took out the ball and spring and never used them. No issue whatsoever, but they do clogg if you leave them in. Cheers!
 
I have the 110v and knock on wood no issues. The ball and spring will get clogged if its pulling too much gunk . I had an issue with that once because I didnt use rice hulls. Had to take out the ball and spring . If left out that could be the reason that Beeru's cfc clogged . If the ball and spring isnt used its allowing stuff to get pumped into the cfc and could be the culprit. Just a guess. But yes everyone should be running pbw through the whole system after every brew.
 
I never used the ball and spring in any of my brews and never had issues with the CFC or pump, but it could happen, I guess. I would however advise in making sure that, when recirculating during mash, you don't allow to much grain bits/husks going into the wort and also, try to leave as much trub in the kettle, before transferring into the fermenter.
 
i threw my check valve spring thing out a long time ago.

the problem with the plug is just junky chinese electrical components. even the cord ends from homless deathspot are better then those chrome janky ones.
 
To leave as much trub in the GF as possible, do you usually let it rest for a while before you start chilling? Would things settle like that while it’s still hot ?
 
To leave as much trub in the GF as possible, do you usually let it rest for a while before you start chilling? Would things settle like that while it’s still hot ?

I dont , I use whrilfoc. At 10 min left in the boil I recirc through the cfc back into the kettle until I get close to pitching temp. If you are getting your cfc plugged then you must have your ball and spring taken out. Basically your getting too much grain and stuff sucked in . Your bottom plate might not be seated right . Do you have the cap on your filter end?
 
A couple of days ago I was brewing my 110v. I had to move the extension cord I was using and found the cord was pretty hot. It was a 16/3 extension cord. I switch over to a heavy 12/3 cord and that took care of the problem. From the picture I would say your power strip is a 16/3 cord which appears can't handle the demand.
 
Jag - what came out looked like very small particulates. Like grain residue small enough to get throw the grain basket, and basic trub. if i use hop pellets sometimes there’s hop residue that makes it way through my spider and hop bags. But i normally use fresh hops. It also comes out in a foam, as if a lot of air is being pushed through.
 
Is your ball and spring not in the pump recirc arm? I dont see how you get that stuff past that ball valve . When I use my hop spider I get zero hop matter in the bottom. Now if your ball and spring is still inside it's not your cfc that's plugged up. It's just below ball and spring . Take the ball and spring out and run 131 degree water and pbw through it ,then hook up the cfc and run it through that . That will tell you what's plugged .
 
Actually that bring up a good question . What percentage of burnt plugs were connected to an extension cord?

Not mine. Straight into a dedicated 20amp GFCI protected circuit.
It's the cheap receptacle that's only rated for a 15 amp circuit that they used.
 
I bought it from Northern brewer, so I have to go through them. I've emailed photos, now just waiting to hear back.
I'm sure it will be taken care of, it just sux to wait

I bought mine from NB as well and when mine broke, GF support told me to go directly through them and not NB.
 
I bought mine from NB as well and when mine broke, GF support told me to go directly through them and not NB.

Interesting. On the Grainfather website under warranty they say:
If you purchased this from a stockist, as your receipt of purchase is with them, the retail store will be your point of contact for repairs/replacements.
and
To make a warranty claim, if you have purchased online from us, contact us directly or if you have purchased from a retail store, please contact them in the first instance. Proof of purchase will be required before you can make a claim under this warranty.

I've submitted all the info and photos to NB, and they have started the process. They did warn me that Grainfather can be slow to respond.
 
That’s great news man. Glad they are taking care of it. I’ve seen lots of complaints like this but the reason I bought was the customer service. My only concern is long term will I ever be able to upgrade to 220 if they come out with one
 
Actually that bring up a good question . What percentage of burnt plugs were connected to an extension cord?

you do realize the plug that is burning up is the one thats plugged into the controller directly to the element right? why would anyone use an extension cord? perhaps they had their controller in their bathroom and wanted to see the temp of the boil?
 
you do realize the plug that is burning up is the one thats plugged into the controller directly to the element right? why would anyone use an extension cord? perhaps they had their controller in their bathroom and wanted to see the temp of the boil?

Oh ok I was thinking of the wrong plug . Carry on gents
 
As a new grainfather 110 volts unit owner ( 4 brews so far ) and a retired electronic technician I worry about the electrical problems of the controller unit. Is the manufacturer aware of that ? Before turning my grainfather on I double check that the 3 plugs are firmly inserted in the controllers sockets. At least that should rule out a bad contact.
 
Right now I'm at 8000 kilometers of my grainfather , but I guess that during the pre-mash step the heating element is working at 100% of its maximum power. While during the mashing step(s) it is powered just enough to maintain the mash temperature constant.
 
there is nothing wrong with the controlller. its the garbage receptacle they used on the box. open that bugger up, put a decent plug end on and your set. this crappy connection will hurt your boil times, i switched mine over to decent stuff and my boil times are great.

also, i have like 200+ brews on my controller... after a new plug shes plugging along fine.

if u want to see what i did go back a few pages.
 
shortyz, I found your reply on page 101 of this thread. Thank you for the pictures. Are the plug and receptacle of the heating element under rated ? Are the crimped connectors the culprits ? ( you suggested to solder them ) . Are the 110V units UL certified ?.
 
Went to brew this past Monday,after 20 min. Checked and water had not started heating.Reset switch was very loose and plug from heating unit would not unplug. emailed my vendor and today ( Thursday ) just received a brand new grainfather in the mail!!!!. Very impressed. Only took 3 days
 
Went to brew this past Monday,after 20 min. Checked and water had not started heating.Reset switch was very loose and plug from heating unit would not unplug. emailed my vendor and today ( Thursday ) just received a brand new grainfather in the mail!!!!. Very impressed. Only took 3 days

Did you have to send the old Gf ?
 
Back
Top