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Ok cool, thanks! So you don’t have an additional screen over the bottom plate? I can’t imagine having the recirc on full blast lol. It overflows already with the valve barely open. I’m thinking my ss screen on the bottom is restricting the flow.

What’s your mill gap set to? Next batch I’m going to increase rice hulls, remove ss screen, and increase gap setting. Let’s see if it helps with the recirc and efficiency.
If you are milling your own grain, try conditioning the barley. https://www.brewersfriend.com/2010/01/16/malt-conditioning/
There is a link to the process. I mill to .028. With most batches(all barley) i recirc at full speed (or close to it) without hitting the over flow pipe. There is a rye pale that i do(33%rye malt, 9% flaked rye) that i add about 8-12 oz of rice hulls, otherwise its just a handfull or 2.
 
If you are milling your own grain, try conditioning the barley. https://www.brewersfriend.com/2010/01/16/malt-conditioning/
There is a link to the process. I mill to .028. With most batches(all barley) i recirc at full speed (or close to it) without hitting the over flow pipe. There is a rye pale that i do(33%rye malt, 9% flaked rye) that i add about 8-12 oz of rice hulls, otherwise its just a handfull or 2.

I’ve been conditioning my grains too. It definitely helps. I’m going to add more rice hulls next time to see if it helps with the recirculation. You don’t have a supplemental ss screen over your bottom plate? Any issues with small bits of grains making their way through the bottom plate?
 
I have my mill set pretty fine, I like the better efficiency. Also, I use the following water formula and have never had an issue.

Mash water = (Grain weight (lbs) x .34) + .9

Sparge water = (6.4 - mash water volume) + (grain weight (lbs) x .1)

I use a spreadsheet for this as it makes it easy.
 
I’ve been conditioning my grains too. It definitely helps. I’m going to add more rice hulls next time to see if it helps with the recirculation. You don’t have a supplemental ss screen over your bottom plate? Any issues with small bits of grains making their way through the bottom plate?
No extra screens at all. Today i brewed an ESB with no rice hulls. Recirced at full speed. I've never had an issue with grain getting through. I figure if it does, it gets picked up in the recirc and ends up on top.
 
No extra screens at all. Today i brewed an ESB with no rice hulls. Recirced at full speed. I've never had an issue with grain getting through. I figure if it does, it gets picked up in the recirc and ends up on top.

I have had slight issues with grain getting stuck in the recirc check valve spring, once I removed it, o more clogging issues.

Thanks guys! You’ve convinced me to change a few things during my brew process. Since you guys are able to recirc at full speed, have you measured or noticed consistent temps across the grain bed? For awhile my beers kept over attenuating but then I realized my actual mash temps were much lower than what the GF said. I contribute that to a low recirc rate
 
Mine seem to be right when I have checked with a thermometer. granted, I am on the old controller but will be upgrading to the new connect controller soon. My only issue I have encountered was trying to mash out, where I set the temp at 170 and it struggles to hold it, hopefully the new controller fixes this issue, which I believe it will.
 
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if im using WHEAT anything, im throwing 2lbs of rice hulls in. cause in the end who gives a sht. wheat always gives me problems unless i use a shtton of rice hulls, a few handfulls aint gonna do it billy!
 
Hi @shortyz
Are you sure about 2lbs? One pound of rice hulls has about the same volume as a gallon, four ounces is about a quart. I've never had to use more than four ounces even with an oatmeal milk stout that was super heavy with oats to get a good flow. Then again, I condition my grain and I don't grind it down to flour. I keep my gap at about 0.040 and just extend the mash time if I think I need higher efficiency. Ed
 
I do believe most people use 1lb of rice hulls per 5 gallon batch. I think 2 is overkill. However I've never used 2 lbs so that's just a guess.
 
This has probably come up a lot but I can’t find specific answers. I’ve been having an issue for the last six or so sessions where the counter flow chiller get clocked just before it’s finished. I’ve had to use a bike pump to flush it out each time. It’s just from regular grain residue (i use hop bags so it’s not that). Anyone know good fixes to prevent gumming up the wort chiller ?
 
This has probably come up a lot but I can’t find specific answers. I’ve been having an issue for the last six or so sessions where the counter flow chiller get clocked just before it’s finished. I’ve had to use a bike pump to flush it out each time. It’s just from regular grain residue (i use hop bags so it’s not that). Anyone know good fixes to prevent gumming up the wort chiller ?

Have you taken the ball and spring out of the valve ? No grains should be getting through it enough to clog. Try running pbw through it after your done . Then run hot water through to rinse . I usually run for15 min hot water and pbw then a 10 min rinse. I dont know if you could damage something on the inside by using an air pump.
 
Dum, dum, dum,
Another one bites the dust!

Plugging the recipe into the laptop this morning and smelled burning. Turned around to a smoking controller. The worst part is I was making a kettle sour :(
20190428_074350.jpeg
 
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I can't understand why something of this price has an issue with the plug . How does this ever happen?? I hope I never have an issue with mine .

Could it be from water/wort dripping on the controller then running down to the underside and contacting the plug?
 
Grainfather customer service is hit or miss. When I had an issue all they said to me was contact the resale location where I got mine. Fortunately for me, mine was not as major of an issue as yours. I am seriously considering selling mine and going with the Ss Brewtech single vessel system when they finally release it. I’ve had too many issues with the GF at this point.
 
Love my GF but this company rolled the dice making only a 110/120V version for the US. Sure they got more profit and wider customer base but also more returns.

I guess I’m gonna have to buy this thing again when they come out with a 220. I don’t see how they can make a convertible kit for existing customers.

I am 100% on board with their product tho. Save the electrical issues it’s very well built.
 
Hi. Even with a transformer, it's still going to have the same amperage draw on the circuit. The only way to get the benefit of a 220v GF, and for it to work as intended, is to put it on a true 220v circuit. Look at the bright side, you saved yourself $70! Ed
 
I can’t insert quotes for some reason but this is a reply to the comment on a clogged pump. I take apart the arm of the pump and clean out the spring and ball every brew. It always has grain gunk in it. I ran PBW through it last brew, and it still clogged on this one. I suppose i’ll try taking apart the whole thing next time.
 
70 batches with the Grainfather Connect 220v and never had any problems with anything. I do nothing to my Grainfather, besides recirculating PBW throught the pump and CFC for 30 minutes after brewing days are over. It just works, but it sounds like there could be some specific issues with the 110v version.

PS: Beeru ---> I took out the ball and spring and never used them. No issue whatsoever, but they do clogg if you leave them in. Cheers!
 
I have the 110v and knock on wood no issues. The ball and spring will get clogged if its pulling too much gunk . I had an issue with that once because I didnt use rice hulls. Had to take out the ball and spring . If left out that could be the reason that Beeru's cfc clogged . If the ball and spring isnt used its allowing stuff to get pumped into the cfc and could be the culprit. Just a guess. But yes everyone should be running pbw through the whole system after every brew.
 
I never used the ball and spring in any of my brews and never had issues with the CFC or pump, but it could happen, I guess. I would however advise in making sure that, when recirculating during mash, you don't allow to much grain bits/husks going into the wort and also, try to leave as much trub in the kettle, before transferring into the fermenter.
 
i threw my check valve spring thing out a long time ago.

the problem with the plug is just junky chinese electrical components. even the cord ends from homless deathspot are better then those chrome janky ones.
 
To leave as much trub in the GF as possible, do you usually let it rest for a while before you start chilling? Would things settle like that while it’s still hot ?
 
To leave as much trub in the GF as possible, do you usually let it rest for a while before you start chilling? Would things settle like that while it’s still hot ?

I dont , I use whrilfoc. At 10 min left in the boil I recirc through the cfc back into the kettle until I get close to pitching temp. If you are getting your cfc plugged then you must have your ball and spring taken out. Basically your getting too much grain and stuff sucked in . Your bottom plate might not be seated right . Do you have the cap on your filter end?
 
A couple of days ago I was brewing my 110v. I had to move the extension cord I was using and found the cord was pretty hot. It was a 16/3 extension cord. I switch over to a heavy 12/3 cord and that took care of the problem. From the picture I would say your power strip is a 16/3 cord which appears can't handle the demand.
 
Jag - what came out looked like very small particulates. Like grain residue small enough to get throw the grain basket, and basic trub. if i use hop pellets sometimes there’s hop residue that makes it way through my spider and hop bags. But i normally use fresh hops. It also comes out in a foam, as if a lot of air is being pushed through.
 
Is your ball and spring not in the pump recirc arm? I dont see how you get that stuff past that ball valve . When I use my hop spider I get zero hop matter in the bottom. Now if your ball and spring is still inside it's not your cfc that's plugged up. It's just below ball and spring . Take the ball and spring out and run 131 degree water and pbw through it ,then hook up the cfc and run it through that . That will tell you what's plugged .
 
Actually that bring up a good question . What percentage of burnt plugs were connected to an extension cord?

Not mine. Straight into a dedicated 20amp GFCI protected circuit.
It's the cheap receptacle that's only rated for a 15 amp circuit that they used.
 
I bought it from Northern brewer, so I have to go through them. I've emailed photos, now just waiting to hear back.
I'm sure it will be taken care of, it just sux to wait

I bought mine from NB as well and when mine broke, GF support told me to go directly through them and not NB.
 
I bought mine from NB as well and when mine broke, GF support told me to go directly through them and not NB.

Interesting. On the Grainfather website under warranty they say:
If you purchased this from a stockist, as your receipt of purchase is with them, the retail store will be your point of contact for repairs/replacements.
and
To make a warranty claim, if you have purchased online from us, contact us directly or if you have purchased from a retail store, please contact them in the first instance. Proof of purchase will be required before you can make a claim under this warranty.

I've submitted all the info and photos to NB, and they have started the process. They did warn me that Grainfather can be slow to respond.
 
That’s great news man. Glad they are taking care of it. I’ve seen lots of complaints like this but the reason I bought was the customer service. My only concern is long term will I ever be able to upgrade to 220 if they come out with one
 
Actually that bring up a good question . What percentage of burnt plugs were connected to an extension cord?

you do realize the plug that is burning up is the one thats plugged into the controller directly to the element right? why would anyone use an extension cord? perhaps they had their controller in their bathroom and wanted to see the temp of the boil?
 
you do realize the plug that is burning up is the one thats plugged into the controller directly to the element right? why would anyone use an extension cord? perhaps they had their controller in their bathroom and wanted to see the temp of the boil?

Oh ok I was thinking of the wrong plug . Carry on gents
 
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