• Please visit and share your knowledge at our sister communities:
  • If you have not, please join our official Homebrewing Facebook Group!

    Homebrewing Facebook Group

Grainfather!!

Homebrew Talk

Help Support Homebrew Talk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Good thought. Yes, the water is where the action is.
---
But, where is a majority of the water in the system residing? In my system it's in the volume occupied by the grain bed. There are a couple of gallons below the grain bed, but other than that, the water is all nestled up and cozy with the grits. Therefore, for consistency's sake, I will always make sure my grain bed is within my desired mash temp range and I will always set my strike temp higher than my mash temp.
---
Side note 2: Another theory on why the GF instructions don't say to make strike water hotter than desired mash temps. Maybe they couldn't figure out a good mathematical prediction for doing so? I can't imagine it's an easy task, being dependent on grain temp, water/grist ratio.

If you use BrewSmith to develop your recipes, it will assist in establishing the right strike water temperature by entering the grain temperature in the mash profile. I've found it does a rather good job providing you have changed some settings in BeerSmith to fit the Grainfather. Use the attached profiles and explanation to make the necessary changes. By the way, by making these changes, BrewSmith's inability to accurated calculate mash and sparge water quantities are also fixed

View attachment TeBrake's Grainfather profile.pdf

View attachment Grainfather equipment profile.bsmx

View attachment Grainfather temp mash 1step full body profile.bsmx
 
I just received my GF yesterday and ran it through its cleaning cycle today. I plan to brew Saturday and have a question that may have already been discussed (I did read the first 50 pages of post but decided I'd just ask). I like to take gravity readings during the sparge and stop when the wort hits 1.010. Has anyone figured a process to get under the mash basket and grab a sample during the sparge? It would only be an issue when I'm brewing alone. Thank you in advance.
 
I just received my GF yesterday and ran it through its cleaning cycle today. I plan to brew Saturday and have a question that may have already been discussed (I did read the first 50 pages of post but decided I'd just ask). I like to take gravity readings during the sparge and stop when the wort hits 1.010. Has anyone figured a process to get under the mash basket and grab a sample during the sparge? It would only be an issue when I'm brewing alone. Thank you in advance.

I haven't done this - I tend to let is sparge until the last drop. However, when I'm done, I put the grain basket in my stainless pot to let it rest until I get around to emptying it (I use this same kettle to heat the sparge water). I suppose if I wanted to get a gravity reading, I'd lift the basket for a moment let a few drops drip into the stainless kettle, and then replace the grain basket onto the GF and get my sample from the kettle.

Again, I haven't tried it and someone may have a better idea.

Out of curiosity, why do you want to stop at 1.010? Just to avoid diluting the wort? I always drain all the way and typically far surpass my target OG, for whatever it's worth.
 
I would try to collect a bit of wort from sparge and use an ATC refractometer to measure gravity. Then again, I will not be getting a GF for a few months so I can not speak from experience ;)
 
This is on my list of improvements at some point. I think thats why the Braumeister uses finer screens in the top and bottom of the mash tun section to help eliminate this problem.
Any one use some sort of additional screens to help?
I have not had this issue. Maybe the gasket got loose or the filter.
 
If you use BrewSmith to develop your recipes, it will assist in establishing the right strike water temperature by entering the grain temperature in the mash profile. I've found it does a rather good job providing you have changed some settings in BeerSmith to fit the Grainfather. Use the attached profiles and explanation to make the necessary changes. By the way, by making these changes, BrewSmith's inability to accurated calculate mash and sparge water quantities are also fixed

Thanks for this! I just got my GF and it's my first go at all grain so I just installed Beer Smith. This is a Beer Smith newb question, but how do I save those profiles? Maybe it's because I'm on a trial so I can't?

I'm able to load the equipment profile and it opens up but I have no way to save it under My Profiles > Equipment? I watched the basic tutorial on Beer Smith and haven't seen anything about this.

Edit: Or can I just follow the PDF and that will accomplish the same thing?
 
If you use BrewSmith to develop your recipes, it will assist in establishing the right strike water temperature by entering the grain temperature in the mash profile. I've found it does a rather good job providing you have changed some settings in BeerSmith to fit the Grainfather. Use the attached profiles and explanation to make the necessary changes. By the way, by making these changes, BrewSmith's inability to accurated calculate mash and sparge water quantities are also fixed


Thanks for sharing your profiles. Will have to compare them to the app now that they've fixed the sparge calculations.
 
Just found this thread and have been eyeing the GF. Thanks for all the great tips and helpful info. I haven't had a chance to read all 62 pages yet but as I have a tendency to over analyze everything, I probably will. Thanks guys! Sub'd.
 
If you use BrewSmith to develop your recipes, it will assist in establishing the right strike water temperature by entering the grain temperature in the mash profile. I've found it does a rather good job providing you have changed some settings in BeerSmith to fit the Grainfather. Use the attached profiles and explanation to make the necessary changes. By the way, by making these changes, BrewSmith's inability to accurated calculate mash and sparge water quantities are also fixed
.

Thanks!! Fwiw I found by after applying these and adjusting the Tun Deadspace upwards you can get closer to the total mash and spare water volumes. I'm comparing it against the online calculator. For example total water volume for 14lb. 6gl online is 8.66. With all the Beersmith changes its 8.6. The setting I have it on now is 1.10.
 
.

Thanks!! Fwiw I found by after applying these and adjusting the Tun Deadspace upwards you can get closer to the total mash and spare water volumes. I'm comparing it against the online calculator. For example total water volume for 14lb. 6gl online is 8.66. With all the Beersmith changes its 8.6. The setting I have it on now is 1.10.

Interesting. I hadn't noticed this before, but the online calculator appears not to give the same results as the formulas provided in the user's manual, which I have been using. With my settings in BrewSmith, for 14 lbs. of grain, I get 5.66 gals. (22.64 qts.) for mash water and 3.14 gals. (12.56 qts.) for sparge water for a total of 8.8 gals., precisely the same as given by the user's manual formula. You did change the grain absorption setting under options>advanced from 0.9600 to 0.800, didn't you?
 
Thanks for this! I just got my GF and it's my first go at all grain so I just installed Beer Smith. This is a Beer Smith newb question, but how do I save those profiles? Maybe it's because I'm on a trial so I can't?

I'm able to load the equipment profile and it opens up but I have no way to save it under My Profiles > Equipment? I watched the basic tutorial on Beer Smith and haven't seen anything about this.

Edit: Or can I just follow the PDF and that will accomplish the same thing?

The instructions in the pdf file will accomplish the same thing.
 
I should add that for a 90 min mash I have not had one drop of wort down the overflow. I'm running the return control valve about half open. It's not an exact match on all temperature spots, but close enough I think.
 
I should add that for a 90 min mash I have not had one drop of wort down the overflow. I'm running the return control valve about half open. It's not an exact match on all temperature spots, but close enough I think.

How much do you have it open at the beginning of the mash? I assume you are able to open it more as the mash progresses.
 
Interesting. I hadn't noticed this before, but the online calculator appears not to give the same results as the formulas provided in the user's manual, which I have been using. With my settings in BrewSmith, for 14 lbs. of grain, I get 5.66 gals. (22.64 qts.) for mash water and 3.14 gals. (12.56 qts.) for sparge water for a total of 8.8 gals., precisely the same as given by the user's manual formula. You did change the grain absorption setting under options>advanced from 0.9600 to 0.800, didn't you?

yep applied all settings, but to get BS to match the GF online calcs I have to have the Tun Deadspace @ 1.16 then it all matches up to their website calcs. i did a 14lb, 15lb and 16lb 6 gallon tests. So is there online calcs off then? hmm, since I only use those online calcs (hate doing math) I'll leave as is.
 
I really didn't play much with the return valve once I got the flow set right for the wort not going down the overflow. I think it's a bit of a balancing act to set the valve. My main goal was no overflow, which helps keep the grain bits out and temp control so both probes match.

My wort was crystal clear after about ten minutes of mashing. When all the wort flows though the grain it filters quickly.

One of my best days with the GF......I'm really starting to see how this thing ticks.
 
I really didn't play much with the return valve once I got the flow set right for the wort not going down the overflow. I think it's a bit of a balancing act to set the valve. My main goal was no overflow, which helps keep the grain bits out and temp control so both probes match.

My wort was crystal clear after about ten minutes of mashing. When all the wort flows though the grain it filters quickly.

One of my best days with the GF......I'm really starting to see how this thing ticks.

Thanks! Have only done one batch on the GF. My approach on the next batch will be exactly what you describe. First one was according to the instructions and I'm pretty sure my recirculation was not ideal.
 
Couple pics of my current brew happening right now. Took about 10 min to get the probe and controller to read about the same. The mash tun started about 146f after dough in. My strike temp was around 162f and I stirred for about 7 min for a good mix.

Could just be a bad angle on your pic, but it doesn't look like you have your overflow rigged up right. The tube is not supposed to extend up through that piece. It is supposed to all push down until the top part is resting in the center hope of the top plate. Did you forget to put the extension tube on? I don't even know how what it looks like in your picture is possible.
 
Could just be a bad angle on your pic, but it doesn't look like you have your overflow rigged up right. The tube is not supposed to extend up through that piece. It is supposed to all push down until the top part is resting in the center hope of the top plate. Did you forget to put the extension tube on? I don't even know how what it looks like in your picture is possible.

Didn't forget, the grain bill was only 6.75lbs for the mild bitter recipe I did. The extension pipe isn't needed for smaller grain bills, or at least I didn't use it.
 
Thanks! Have only done one batch on the GF. My approach on the next batch will be exactly what you describe. First one was according to the instructions and I'm pretty sure my recirculation was not ideal.

I would start with the valve 1/2 or 2/3 closed to set the grain bed. Once you have the cycle running good maybe open it up a little. I ran mine 1/2 open for the mash cycle today. I cant really see running it faster making much of a difference. For me, the main goal was to have good flow in the grain bed section.

Good luck with your brew day!
 
Does anyone else have issues with their FGs finishing way low? I ferment cool and slow, but all my GF brews are finishing well below my target. For example, my last IPA with 001 finished at 1.006 and my target was 1.012. The only thing I can think of is that my mash temp is actually much lower than what my readout on the GF is. Anyone else experiencing this or have any advice on how to rectify?
 
Does anyone else have issues with their FGs finishing way low? I ferment cool and slow, but all my GF brews are finishing well below my target. For example, my last IPA with 001 finished at 1.006 and my target was 1.012. The only thing I can think of is that my mash temp is actually much lower than what my readout on the GF is. Anyone else experiencing this or have any advice on how to rectify?

This is part of what tang is suggesting. It's quite possible that the temperature in the grain bed is lower than the STC readout is providing. You may wish to take temps in the grain bed. Also hit with higher strike temp to hit mash target.c
 
Brewing an Oktoberfest this morning to celebrate the end of the traditional German brewing season (not for me).

Another foot higher on your HLT and you can auto sparge!

How much do you have it open at the beginning of the mash? I assume you are able to open it more as the mash progresses.

I've run mine a bit under 1/2 open to start and then as it settles in I'm able to open up to about 3/4 open. Had the wort right near the top of the overflow without going over!
 
Does anyone else have issues with their FGs finishing way low? I ferment cool and slow, but all my GF brews are finishing well below my target. For example, my last IPA with 001 finished at 1.006 and my target was 1.012. The only thing I can think of is that my mash temp is actually much lower than what my readout on the GF is. Anyone else experiencing this or have any advice on how to rectify?


Troll
 
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/111937543038?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

I bought this stuff on ebay. Its going to be my attempt at adding a second screen in the bottom to keep put some of the grain bits. Just going to cut it to size and put it on top of the one with the gasket. My thinking says the top is not needed because its gravity feed from top to bottom.

What do you guys think?

I know its not needed, but thats how it rolls sometimes.

Jamie
 
It needs the OEM screen in the top and bottom. I'm just adding a screen in the bottom. My last brew was perfect except for a small amount of grain in the boil. All the grain in the boil came from the bottom screen not being fine enough.

It's just an experiment to see if it can be better.
 
Another foot higher on your HLT and you can auto sparge!



I've run mine a bit under 1/2 open to start and then as it settles in I'm able to open up to about 3/4 open. Had the wort right near the top of the overflow without going over!

What differences are you noticing by not letting any wort go in the overflow? I never tried it.
 
Back
Top