Grainfather!!

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Thanks for this! I just got my GF and it's my first go at all grain so I just installed Beer Smith. This is a Beer Smith newb question, but how do I save those profiles? Maybe it's because I'm on a trial so I can't?

I'm able to load the equipment profile and it opens up but I have no way to save it under My Profiles > Equipment? I watched the basic tutorial on Beer Smith and haven't seen anything about this.

Edit: Or can I just follow the PDF and that will accomplish the same thing?

The instructions in the pdf file will accomplish the same thing.
 
I should add that for a 90 min mash I have not had one drop of wort down the overflow. I'm running the return control valve about half open. It's not an exact match on all temperature spots, but close enough I think.
 
I should add that for a 90 min mash I have not had one drop of wort down the overflow. I'm running the return control valve about half open. It's not an exact match on all temperature spots, but close enough I think.

How much do you have it open at the beginning of the mash? I assume you are able to open it more as the mash progresses.
 
Interesting. I hadn't noticed this before, but the online calculator appears not to give the same results as the formulas provided in the user's manual, which I have been using. With my settings in BrewSmith, for 14 lbs. of grain, I get 5.66 gals. (22.64 qts.) for mash water and 3.14 gals. (12.56 qts.) for sparge water for a total of 8.8 gals., precisely the same as given by the user's manual formula. You did change the grain absorption setting under options>advanced from 0.9600 to 0.800, didn't you?

yep applied all settings, but to get BS to match the GF online calcs I have to have the Tun Deadspace @ 1.16 then it all matches up to their website calcs. i did a 14lb, 15lb and 16lb 6 gallon tests. So is there online calcs off then? hmm, since I only use those online calcs (hate doing math) I'll leave as is.
 
I really didn't play much with the return valve once I got the flow set right for the wort not going down the overflow. I think it's a bit of a balancing act to set the valve. My main goal was no overflow, which helps keep the grain bits out and temp control so both probes match.

My wort was crystal clear after about ten minutes of mashing. When all the wort flows though the grain it filters quickly.

One of my best days with the GF......I'm really starting to see how this thing ticks.
 
I really didn't play much with the return valve once I got the flow set right for the wort not going down the overflow. I think it's a bit of a balancing act to set the valve. My main goal was no overflow, which helps keep the grain bits out and temp control so both probes match.

My wort was crystal clear after about ten minutes of mashing. When all the wort flows though the grain it filters quickly.

One of my best days with the GF......I'm really starting to see how this thing ticks.

Thanks! Have only done one batch on the GF. My approach on the next batch will be exactly what you describe. First one was according to the instructions and I'm pretty sure my recirculation was not ideal.
 
Couple pics of my current brew happening right now. Took about 10 min to get the probe and controller to read about the same. The mash tun started about 146f after dough in. My strike temp was around 162f and I stirred for about 7 min for a good mix.

Could just be a bad angle on your pic, but it doesn't look like you have your overflow rigged up right. The tube is not supposed to extend up through that piece. It is supposed to all push down until the top part is resting in the center hope of the top plate. Did you forget to put the extension tube on? I don't even know how what it looks like in your picture is possible.
 
Could just be a bad angle on your pic, but it doesn't look like you have your overflow rigged up right. The tube is not supposed to extend up through that piece. It is supposed to all push down until the top part is resting in the center hope of the top plate. Did you forget to put the extension tube on? I don't even know how what it looks like in your picture is possible.

Didn't forget, the grain bill was only 6.75lbs for the mild bitter recipe I did. The extension pipe isn't needed for smaller grain bills, or at least I didn't use it.
 
Thanks! Have only done one batch on the GF. My approach on the next batch will be exactly what you describe. First one was according to the instructions and I'm pretty sure my recirculation was not ideal.

I would start with the valve 1/2 or 2/3 closed to set the grain bed. Once you have the cycle running good maybe open it up a little. I ran mine 1/2 open for the mash cycle today. I cant really see running it faster making much of a difference. For me, the main goal was to have good flow in the grain bed section.

Good luck with your brew day!
 
Does anyone else have issues with their FGs finishing way low? I ferment cool and slow, but all my GF brews are finishing well below my target. For example, my last IPA with 001 finished at 1.006 and my target was 1.012. The only thing I can think of is that my mash temp is actually much lower than what my readout on the GF is. Anyone else experiencing this or have any advice on how to rectify?
 
Does anyone else have issues with their FGs finishing way low? I ferment cool and slow, but all my GF brews are finishing well below my target. For example, my last IPA with 001 finished at 1.006 and my target was 1.012. The only thing I can think of is that my mash temp is actually much lower than what my readout on the GF is. Anyone else experiencing this or have any advice on how to rectify?

This is part of what tang is suggesting. It's quite possible that the temperature in the grain bed is lower than the STC readout is providing. You may wish to take temps in the grain bed. Also hit with higher strike temp to hit mash target.c
 
Brewing an Oktoberfest this morning to celebrate the end of the traditional German brewing season (not for me).

Another foot higher on your HLT and you can auto sparge!

How much do you have it open at the beginning of the mash? I assume you are able to open it more as the mash progresses.

I've run mine a bit under 1/2 open to start and then as it settles in I'm able to open up to about 3/4 open. Had the wort right near the top of the overflow without going over!
 
Does anyone else have issues with their FGs finishing way low? I ferment cool and slow, but all my GF brews are finishing well below my target. For example, my last IPA with 001 finished at 1.006 and my target was 1.012. The only thing I can think of is that my mash temp is actually much lower than what my readout on the GF is. Anyone else experiencing this or have any advice on how to rectify?


Troll
 
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/111937543038?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

I bought this stuff on ebay. Its going to be my attempt at adding a second screen in the bottom to keep put some of the grain bits. Just going to cut it to size and put it on top of the one with the gasket. My thinking says the top is not needed because its gravity feed from top to bottom.

What do you guys think?

I know its not needed, but thats how it rolls sometimes.

Jamie
 
It needs the OEM screen in the top and bottom. I'm just adding a screen in the bottom. My last brew was perfect except for a small amount of grain in the boil. All the grain in the boil came from the bottom screen not being fine enough.

It's just an experiment to see if it can be better.
 
Another foot higher on your HLT and you can auto sparge!



I've run mine a bit under 1/2 open to start and then as it settles in I'm able to open up to about 3/4 open. Had the wort right near the top of the overflow without going over!

What differences are you noticing by not letting any wort go in the overflow? I never tried it.
 
Another foot higher on your HLT and you can auto sparge!







I've run mine a bit under 1/2 open to start and then as it settles in I'm able to open up to about 3/4 open. Had the wort right near the top of the overflow without going over!


Exactly what I was thinking. In fact, he has the same kettle I used for my extracts and I was going to rig it up...until I remembered the telescopic sparge adjustment :-0
PS - and same heatstick lol.
 
Brewed another batch today. Same recipe as before but started at 155º strike temp to settle on 150º. Once at 155º, checked with thermopen (calibrated) and was dead on at 155º. Killed element (is this what others are doing?) Doughed in, checked temp, 147º. Started pump, turned element back on, left at 155º and checked outflow temps until they settled at 150º (6 mins). Re-set temp to 152º as readout was showing 154º when the outflow was 150º. Brew session was par from this point on...

After 4 brews this is what I have come up with a template for my Beer Tools Pro. This is exactly what I ended up with today:

IMG_2620.jpg
 
Hey guys I need your help!!! I just did my first batch on The Grainfather and I had some trouble with the mash. I had quite a few husks that ended up in my boil which will most likely result on some tannin flavors. How can I fix this issue. I don't have my own grain mill. What should I do? Thank you in advance
 
Hey guys I need your help!!! I just did my first batch on The Grainfather and I had some trouble with the mash. I had quite a few husks that ended up in my boil which will most likely result on some tannin flavors. How can I fix this issue. I don't have my own grain mill. What should I do? Thank you in advance

Buy a grain mill,then you can enjoy buying grain by the sack and saving money over buying crushed grain from your LHBS.

RMCB
 
What differences are you noticing by not letting any wort go in the overflow? I never tried it.

I can't say I've noticed any. I figure that it would stop some grains from falling through, and I like the idea that all the recirc is going thru the grain bed. Its quite simple to operate this way, and fills my need to do something during the mash!:)

Brewed another batch today. Same recipe as before but started at 155º strike temp to settle on 150º. Once at 155º, checked with thermopen (calibrated) and was dead on at 155º. Killed element (is this what others are doing?) Doughed in, checked temp, 147º. Started pump, turned element back on, left at 155º and checked outflow temps until they settled at 150º (6 mins). Re-set temp to 152º as readout was showing 154º when the outflow was 150º. Brew session was par from this point on...

After 4 brews this is what I have come up with a template for my Beer Tools Pro. This is exactly what I ended up with today:

No I don't turn off the GF while doughing in. So long as on mash it won't overheat I figure. I'm trying to understand the above, did you wish to hit 150? (sounds like that based on what temp you were trying to attain on the outflow). If so, then it appears a strike of 158 would've been sufficient to land at 150, right? Small grain bill? I'd expect maybe +10-12 F on strike temp based on my notes from my last pre-GF brew (+12, 14# bill) but was about 1F high.

Hey guys I need your help!!! I just did my first batch on The Grainfather and I had some trouble with the mash. I had quite a few husks that ended up in my boil which will most likely result on some tannin flavors. How can I fix this issue. I don't have my own grain mill. What should I do? Thank you in advance

Not sure your own grain mill would change this so much- likely you'd grind it finer than LBHS. Questions that I think of are:
1) was bottom plate seated perfectly at bottom? i.e. rubber gasket in place and not folded over anywhere, was fully at bottom
2) Were you careful enough while filling the grain basket that no grains slipped in between basket and boiler?
3) may sound dumb, but did you have the grain stopper in place while filling?
4) lastly, if all above were good, did you allow wort to overflow during the recirc period of the mash? I know some will fall through if you don't, but not sure that would make up all of what you experienced. I control the valve to avoid this, most here I do not think practice this and have not complained about any adverse effects.

Nothing else I can think of, but maybe someone else can?
 
Used my new GF Sparge water Heater today. Worked perfectly! I need to raise it up about 5" and it will be perfect.

Very nice setup there man! Making us jealous!! Looks like you had the right flow rate too, was it hard to adjust / dial in?
 
Third batch in on my GF,and all I can say is that I love this thing!!Such a relaxed brew day. I was able to make a pot of black beans and rice,vacuum my living room,hand load 20 rounds of 300 Blk and shower,all while brewing. I would never have been able to do half that on my propane system.
 
No I don't turn off the GF while doughing in. So long as on mash it won't overheat I figure. I'm trying to understand the above, did you wish to hit 150? (sounds like that based on what temp you were trying to attain on the outflow). If so, then it appears a strike of 158 would've been sufficient to land at 150, right? Small grain bill? I'd expect maybe +10-12 F on strike temp based on my notes from my last pre-GF brew (+12, 14# bill) but was about 1F high.

Yes, target temp was 150º. I think it may have rebounded a little faster had I left the element on. This is the first time i have turned it off while doughing in. Grain bill was 14 pounds 5 ounces.

Very nice setup there man! Making us jealous!! Looks like you had the right flow rate too, was it hard to adjust / dial in?

With the GF water heater it's all or nothing. I just had to open it and then close it once it rose above the grain bed a little.

What is everyone doing as far as the sparge goes? When traditionally fly sparging on my old all grain system, I kept the water a inch or so above the grain bed. I would target a 45-60 minute sparge time with a 10 gallon batch. This of course could be achieved by throttling bak the outflow of my mash tun. Obviously we can't do that with the GF so do you still try to keep the water above the top of the top screen/grain bed or let it drain awhile and then add more water?

When I try to do it the traditional way, it seems to go quicker than what most are reporting here. Mine is about 20 minutes. I do push the screen down to contact the grain bed after raising the malt pipe and before I begin adding my sparge water.
 
I can't say I've noticed any. I figure that it would stop some grains from falling through, and I like the idea that all the recirc is going thru the grain bed. Its quite simple to operate this way, and fills my need to do something during the mash!:)



No I don't turn off the GF while doughing in. So long as on mash it won't overheat I figure. I'm trying to understand the above, did you wish to hit 150? (sounds like that based on what temp you were trying to attain on the outflow). If so, then it appears a strike of 158 would've been sufficient to land at 150, right? Small grain bill? I'd expect maybe +10-12 F on strike temp based on my notes from my last pre-GF brew (+12, 14# bill) but was about 1F high.



Not sure your own grain mill would change this so much- likely you'd grind it finer than LBHS. Questions that I think of are:
1) was bottom plate seated perfectly at bottom? i.e. rubber gasket in place and not folded over anywhere, was fully at bottom
2) Were you careful enough while filling the grain basket that no grains slipped in between basket and boiler?
3) may sound dumb, but did you have the grain stopper in place while filling?
4) lastly, if all above were good, did you allow wort to overflow during the recirc period of the mash? I know some will fall through if you don't, but not sure that would make up all of what you experienced. I control the valve to avoid this, most here I do not think practice this and have not complained about any adverse effects.

Nothing else I can think of, but maybe someone else can?

I did try all of those things during my brew day. I may just need to add some rice hulls to filter a little bit better. It was my first batch and I could have easily overlooked some things. I did have an issue getting up to boiling temp. I was stuck at 212 for about 45 minutes before it went to 214 and a nice rolling boil. I lightly scraped the element and everything. Could it be because i was using and extension cord?
 
I'm using a half pound of hulls in each batch. I think a little courser crush is a good option to help with flow.
 
I did try all of those things during my brew day. I may just need to add some rice hulls to filter a little bit better. It was my first batch and I could have easily overlooked some things. I did have an issue getting up to boiling temp. I was stuck at 212 for about 45 minutes before it went to 214 and a nice rolling boil. I lightly scraped the element and everything. Could it be because i was using and extension cord?

Possibly. when I first got my GF I thought it was broken due to the long times and slack boil. I found out there was a lot of appliances (commercial ice machine, fridges, freezers and kegerator) ALL on one breaker. Once I dedicated an outlet to just my GF and used no extension cord it greatly improved.
 
Did my first all grain brew with the grain father. Honestly I was somewhat intimidated going head first to all grain but the experience was great. I brewed in my garage which has its own 20 amp circuit (to accommodate high amp tools) and nothing other than led lights running. I almost had a boil over and had to paddle and starsan spray it down. Don't think I really need to insulate this just yet.

Pump didn't clog but I was brewing a Belgian wit with little hops. I may pick up some 6-12 cup tea leaf holders I found on Amazon when I try an IPA.

Chilling I had an issue as I didn't clamp down the cold In from the garden hose and it popped off making a minor flood. That was fixed.

If I did my math right I got 76% efficiency which I'm happy with as a rookie. May be the rice hulls and compressing the grain basket helped there.

Well I have 2 more weeks till I keg this but I'm excited about this system and reccomend it to anyone who may be on the fence.

Dave
 
Does anyone else have issues with their FGs finishing way low? I ferment cool and slow, but all my GF brews are finishing well below my target. For example, my last IPA with 001 finished at 1.006 and my target was 1.012. The only thing I can think of is that my mash temp is actually much lower than what my readout on the GF is. Anyone else experiencing this or have any advice on how to rectify?

I had the opposite problem. I had a hard time getting my first 2 beers to finish. One of them I had to shake the fermenter to get more yeast back in suspension to get the job done.
 
Possibly. when I first got my GF I thought it was broken due to the long times and slack boil. I found out there was a lot of appliances (commercial ice machine, fridges, freezers and kegerator) ALL on one breaker. Once I dedicated an outlet to just my GF and used no extension cord it greatly improved.
Thank you for the feed back I will consider it this weekend on my next brew day. It makes sense.
 
If you use BrewSmith to develop your recipes, it will assist in establishing the right strike water temperature by entering the grain temperature in the mash profile. I've found it does a rather good job providing you have changed some settings in BeerSmith to fit the Grainfather. Use the attached profiles and explanation to make the necessary changes. By the way, by making these changes, BrewSmith's inability to accurated calculate mash and sparge water quantities are also fixed

Thanks for this. I have been toying with Beersmith profile as well... but just haven't nailed it down yet. Will give this profile a try on my next brew in a couple of weeks.
 
...What is everyone doing as far as the sparge goes? When traditionally fly sparging on my old all grain system, I kept the water a inch or so above the grain bed.... This of course could be achieved by throttling bak the outflow of my mash tun. Obviously we can't do that with the GF so do you still try to keep the water above the top of the top screen/grain bed or let it drain awhile and then add more water?

When I try to do it the traditional way, it seems to go quicker than what most are reporting here. Mine is about 20 minutes. I do push the screen down to contact the grain bed after raising the malt pipe and before I begin adding my sparge water.

I'm pouring (for now) onto the top plate, trying to maintain ~1/2" of water on top and not let it fully drain off the plate. I'm getting closer, maybe by May, to getting my brew area done in the basement where I will have an elevated kettle and adjust the valve. I was thinking you could put an inline valve on your hose there to control the sparge flow (and elevate it the 5" or so you mentioned!).

I did try all of those things during my brew day. I may just need to add some rice hulls to filter a little bit better. It was my first batch and I could have easily overlooked some things. I did have an issue getting up to boiling temp. I was stuck at 212 for about 45 minutes before it went to 214 and a nice rolling boil. I lightly scraped the element and everything. Could it be because i was using and extension cord?

I'm confused, thought your question was about grain in the boil? I don't know if hulls will help that, though I suppose it would improve the speed of recirc, and thus less chance of water in the overflow. I haven't yet found a need for hulls, the recirc runs about 3/4 open and it really moves a good amount of wort through. If cord was long definitely you could've lost some power, and more so if you plugged into a 15a outlet. If in 20a and you need a cord, either find a shorter 20a rated one or make one if you are comfortable with that project.

...and starsan spray it down. ..
Chilling I had an issue as I didn't clamp down the cold In from the garden hose and it popped off making a minor flood. That was fixed.

If I did my math right I got 76% efficiency which I'm happy with as a rookie. May be the rice hulls and compressing the grain basket helped there.
Dave

Congrats Dave! (VH fan, huh?!). I've seen guys starsan spray boils to get them down, but I don't know why. I stir as the hot break forms and starts to shake (boiling underneath at this point) with no boil over, or even blow on it! Besides if you wish to spray, just use plain water- no need to use sanitizing solution at this point in the brew.
You're in good company here with those that had the cold inlet come off, that and the "hot" (more lukewarm at best) outlet hose jumping out and making a mess! Good job, and on your first AG day! I wish I started right in with the GF too.
 
I almost had a boil over and had to paddle and starsan spray it down. Dave

I've had success by just using a small fan to blow a hole in the foam. I also stir with a SS spoon once it settles down, so it won't foam up again.
 
Back
Top