Also, here's a couple of screen shots on how to calculate your mash and sparge water.
Grainfather!!
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It is in the US. At that temperature, sanitizing is near instant. I don't know how resistant to heat the O-rings and pressure release valves are so I didn't want to take it up to 80c. I chose to go with a lower temperature and longer time to get to the same place.
scallopking
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yep, same here use the time for cleaning, I removed the spring and ball several batches now and no speed up on transfer that I notice.
I removed the ball and spring too. If anything, it seems even slower, like the pump had more suction and is able to compact the trub around the filter even tighter
Good to know. I was thinking that it wouldn't change much if any. Thanks for your input.
RockyMountainCraftBrewing
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I removed the ball and spring too. If anything, it seems even slower, like the pump had more suction and is able to compact the trub around the filter even tighter
If it aint broke dont fix it
RMCB
I removed the ball and spring too. If anything, it seems even slower, like the pump had more suction and is able to compact the trub around the filter even tighter
Yeah, but it's one less thing to clean at the end of the brew day. 6 of one, half dozen of the other.
Here is what I got for sparging.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004RC6S/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
I went with the used option from amazon for $60.
an Inkbird controller and it has been great.
I have a thermowell and ball valve that I am in the process of installing then I'll be done.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004RC6S/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
I went with the used option from amazon for $60.
an Inkbird controller and it has been great.
I have a thermowell and ball valve that I am in the process of installing then I'll be done.
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Gone from here a few days, and pages of posts! Enjoy reading all of these!
Congrats and welcome! You're going to enjoy it, post back how it went, always good to hear more observations & thoughts!
I copied the formula from the manual to my Bru'n Water spreadsheet, and link in results. I have not had as good results, always about 1/2 gal extra in the fermenter, so I've adjusted now for that.
I have the 6 x 14" 400 micron. I scrape the sides and stir up the bottom and allow exchange of the wort, so some trub does escape, but I'm ok with that, it retains most. I do this to ensure good utilization, have no idea if I'm improving it. It feels right, I too am not fond of how it appears to not mix as well as I'd hope for, so far seems fine.
No. Your only questionable practice was using hot water to begin your boil. I think the water you ran through the chiller (and it was on the cooling coil?) is not harming anything. Even if on the wort flow of the chiller, I assume you will sanitize this as per GF instructions with the hot wort post boil.
I have used them, though I used with pellets as well, all in boiler (the leaf hops were FWH addition and I didn't have assistance that day to lift the grain basket and tuck in the hop basket with the hops). This was my worst clog, however I carefully scrapped the hop filter and voila! That and removing the spring and ball had the pump running very strong. I'm thinking the leaf hops helped!
I always run with my chiller on a stool, instead of the lid, so I have access to the boiler.
Great idea!
IME I had great improvement removing the ball and spring. That's what I thought others experience was as well, why the suggestion was put out there in the first place. It saved me on a day I tried pellets in the boiler instead of the basket. I now use the basket all the time, just use my scrape and wort exchange as I noted above.
Congrats and welcome! You're going to enjoy it, post back how it went, always good to hear more observations & thoughts!
I copied the formula from the manual to my Bru'n Water spreadsheet, and link in results. I have not had as good results, always about 1/2 gal extra in the fermenter, so I've adjusted now for that.
I have the 6 x 14" 400 micron. I scrape the sides and stir up the bottom and allow exchange of the wort, so some trub does escape, but I'm ok with that, it retains most. I do this to ensure good utilization, have no idea if I'm improving it. It feels right, I too am not fond of how it appears to not mix as well as I'd hope for, so far seems fine.
No. Your only questionable practice was using hot water to begin your boil. I think the water you ran through the chiller (and it was on the cooling coil?) is not harming anything. Even if on the wort flow of the chiller, I assume you will sanitize this as per GF instructions with the hot wort post boil.
I have used them, though I used with pellets as well, all in boiler (the leaf hops were FWH addition and I didn't have assistance that day to lift the grain basket and tuck in the hop basket with the hops). This was my worst clog, however I carefully scrapped the hop filter and voila! That and removing the spring and ball had the pump running very strong. I'm thinking the leaf hops helped!
I always run with my chiller on a stool, instead of the lid, so I have access to the boiler.
Great idea!
IME I had great improvement removing the ball and spring. That's what I thought others experience was as well, why the suggestion was put out there in the first place. It saved me on a day I tried pellets in the boiler instead of the basket. I now use the basket all the time, just use my scrape and wort exchange as I noted above.
Great idea! I'm thinking this might be the way to go for me in the future so that I can scrape the trub off the filter periodically. I agree that it's a great time for cleaning during the transfer, but I'm not built for multitasking. I want the wort in the fermentor ASAP so I can devote my attention to something else. Personal hangup, I guess.
Stupidsexyflanders
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I have read a fair bit of the thread, but not all. I have not seen anybody discuss using the still, anybody tried?
How quickly does this heat up? Maintains a good temp with the PID?
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JunkCatsOnThePorch
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Love the name, I'm a huge simpsons fan.
However, your question can answered just by looking at the homebrewtalk emblem at the top left of your screen. Or just reading the forum rules.
About to get The Grainfather! I cannot wait! I am an apartment brewer so this thing will really solve most of my brewing inconveniences. SWMBO is supporting my purchase too. I think it looks quite a bit safer than my current setup of boiling 6 gallons on the stove then carrying 212F wort to the bathroom(only connectable faucet for the wort chiller).
Probably on here but how to stop boilovers? Wort hardly ever tries to boil over for me but I usually just remove the pot from the stove, stir a bit then back on.
I also like doing low gravity extract beers for the keg, and bottling my AG recipes. (I got probably 30Lbs of light DME from work at the food science lab they were just gunna throw away because it was open for 6 months+. No clumps or anything. And its still making great beer. SCORE!) So scorch free kettle is defiantly a plus for me.
However, your question can answered just by looking at the homebrewtalk emblem at the top left of your screen. Or just reading the forum rules.
About to get The Grainfather! I cannot wait! I am an apartment brewer so this thing will really solve most of my brewing inconveniences. SWMBO is supporting my purchase too. I think it looks quite a bit safer than my current setup of boiling 6 gallons on the stove then carrying 212F wort to the bathroom(only connectable faucet for the wort chiller).
Probably on here but how to stop boilovers? Wort hardly ever tries to boil over for me but I usually just remove the pot from the stove, stir a bit then back on.
I also like doing low gravity extract beers for the keg, and bottling my AG recipes. (I got probably 30Lbs of light DME from work at the food science lab they were just gunna throw away because it was open for 6 months+. No clumps or anything. And its still making great beer. SCORE!) So scorch free kettle is defiantly a plus for me.
JunkCatsOnThePorch
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Ohh yea this looks way awesome! It just says 100 cups of coffee. Im guessing thats the standard us cup so over 6 gallons?
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d-bone
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I have been doing tthis as well, however my last two brews I have not been scraping the filter and found that although it makes the transfer a little slower, helps keep some extra trub and sediment out of the fermenter. the first time, I put my first hop addition( one of many) straight in the boiler to help work around the filter so that it doesnt get as clogged with trub during transfer. The second brew was a cream ale with very little hops so they all went in filter, and this was a little slower transfer due to some minor clogging, but I just turned the pump off, and then back on once or twice and it worked itself out. I think the first method of adding just the first bittering pellets straight to the boiler worked out better.
by the way, had my best brew time yet, wednesday. I used my new heat stick to help bring my water to strike and it got 3.75 gallons (small grain bill) from 48 to 155 ( mash temp of 152) in 24 minutes. I think it would have bought my usual 5. something gallons up in about 35, which is still just over half as long as without. Best $40 upgrade yet, besides the bucket dolly I bought so I could move the full GF around.
I doubt it ..... most of these manufacturers use anywhere from 3 or 4 ounces per cup to 5 or 6 ounces per cup. I went to a restaurant supply website, and West Bend's 101 cup urn is 3.9 gallons.
Caveat Emptor!
The first time that happened it plugged up the filter so bad the water wouldn't even come out of the faucet. We just finally dumped the filter and now we go to another town and get really good mountain water from a spring -
Still working on that
Not yet! There are you tube videos you can see on this topic from GF.
You got it, stir! That's all, no boil over. If you keep the lid on to get up to boil it will try to boil over so just remove lid as you approach 212.
Sounds good for drinking but I'd still want to know it's profile. I've gotten more into water adjustment, Bru'n water, and I believe it makes a big difference. Especially on light color brews
Never even come close to having one. It seems as if enough head-space was designed into the thing that it's a non-issue. (Ymmv ) A spray bottle of water nearby however would probably be enough to take care of it.
Honestly, I haven't paid much attention to heating time.
I start it up when I am almost ready to mash in, and it's always ready when I sparge.
According to this site: http://www.jesrestaurantequipment.c...-capacity-polished-aluminum-fin-p-935381.html
It holds 4.68 gallons.\
It seems to keep the temp pretty well.
I'll see once I get the thermowell installed how that affects things.
Right now I have my probe just hanging in the water.
Honestly, I haven't paid much attention to heating time.
I start it up when I am almost ready to mash in, and it's always ready when I sparge.
According to this site: http://www.jesrestaurantequipment.c...-capacity-polished-aluminum-fin-p-935381.html
It holds 4.68 gallons.\
It seems to keep the temp pretty well.
I'll see once I get the thermowell installed how that affects things.
Right now I have my probe just hanging in the water.
It should hold temp well. Nobody likes cold coffee...
tommymartel
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Just got my own Grainfather, can't wait to try it! This thread as been really helpful!
Congrats! Enjoy!
Yeah, I got the readout from the city ..... the water is so pure in that town the EPA can't force the Chlorine/Chloromine/Flouride crap on them but the city told me that the EPA forces them to "clean the delivery system (pipes)" once a year, so they have to warn all the users not to use the water for 2 weeks until the chemicals have disappeared from the water! It's great water! -- Annnnd, I usually only make Dark beers and very hoppy IPAs. As we all know, "A Hoppy Beer is a Happy Beer!" I see you're enjoying your GF .... congrats!
Honestly, I haven't paid much attention to heating time.
I start it up when I am almost ready to mash in, and it's always ready when I sparge.
According to this site: http://www.jesrestaurantequipment.c...-capacity-polished-aluminum-fin-p-935381.html
It holds 4.68 gallons.\
It seems to keep the temp pretty well.
I'll see once I get the thermowell installed how that affects things.
Right now I have my probe just hanging in the water.
I have a STC-1000 and dual outlets wired up for my yogurt making machine. I'm totally going to pivot this over and use it for a sparge heater like yours. :rockin:
JunkCatsOnThePorch
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Honestly, I haven't paid much attention to heating time.
I start it up when I am almost ready to mash in, and it's always ready when I sparge.
According to this site: http://www.jesrestaurantequipment.c...-capacity-polished-aluminum-fin-p-935381.html
It holds 4.68 gal
I was actually just about to order one. But 4.68 gallons seems like not enough to me, although I am not on the grainfather for a couple more weeks. I guess Ill wait and see how much water I end up sparging with, my 8 Gallon pot and 10 Gallon Cooler mash tun should work just fine.
Question. I know it is silly but I still use my original spinning flysparge arm on my regular AG batches. It does not disturb the grain bed at all and thats why I keep using it. Is it possible to use it on the grainfather? Any thoughts?
Check the calculator, So far the volume has been plenty for every brew I've done (6 gallon batches).
I have the pieces to construct a sparging system next. The upper perforated plate keeps you from directly impacting teh grain bed.
So far I have been pulling a gallon at a time from my sparge heater and pouring over the back of a spoon to sparge......once I add the ball and thermowell (likely before the next brew) the next step is slick little sparge arm I have pictured in my head and allready purchased teh supplies to build....pre measuring the sparge water exactly and cracking a valve.
tommymartel
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I'm testing my grainfather. And I can't set the mash higher then 105F. It won't just go higher then this. The temp probe seems to work fine, I checked it with my other thermometer. So you guys have any clue what is wrong?
elreplica
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Did you try the reset button on the bottom of the GF? It's the only thing that possibly be wrong - other than the controller being facked...and THAT would truly suck, being a new machine and starting a brew :_(
PS. My second thought was that you're in Celsius...
PS. My second thought was that you're in Celsius...
tommymartel
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Ok, I had to do the initial setup in celcius and then redo it back in farenheit!
gotbeer74
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Numbers are almost right on. Beersmith is .10 gallons higher for mash water needed and .10 gallons less for sparge, so it works out in the end. Thanks for the info.
Need some help guys. I was changing celcius to farenheit using these instructions http://media.wix.com/ugd/e8b8c7_0c7caceab63b48ffa6317ba31ae2d1db.pdf and obviously did something wrong because I think I've bricked the controller. Now when I turn it on, it flashes a few times and then shows "OFF". I tried getting back into the administrative menu, but that just locks the whole controller up and shows a 0.
Is there anyway to reset this thing? I've emailed Grainfather but no response (weekend). One other guy on Facebook had the same problem, but he can't remember what he did. I've tried everything.
Failing this, does anyone know if you can just stick an STC 1000 in it and run it? I have an extra one in a temp controller I made.
Is there anyway to reset this thing? I've emailed Grainfather but no response (weekend). One other guy on Facebook had the same problem, but he can't remember what he did. I've tried everything.
Failing this, does anyone know if you can just stick an STC 1000 in it and run it? I have an extra one in a temp controller I made.
elreplica
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From what I understand, an STC 1000 can be plugged into the Grainfather and will run it...even better than the STC 200 stock controller. The 1000 can be "hacked" using software and a gizmo interface called an arduino board so it then can be programmed to do step mashes and thus more fully automated. I am trying to buy a setup but haven't been able to at this stage. I may eventually bite the bullet and try to flash it myself.PS - you need an STC1000 with the correct chipset soldered...I think it's a A400P and if correctly flashed, turns the right STC1000 into a programmable STC1000P.
doogster
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Hi all, been reading all 136 pages over the last few days and am very close to pulling the trigger on a GF. I had the opportunity to brew with someone a week or so ago with the TreacherousTexan and came away impressed. I intend to use the GF outside when I can, and inside when I have to.
My question is, does anyone have a sense for what the lower end of the ambient temperature is where you can still get the GF to a boil? I ready a post recently that somene brewing in the lower 60s and could not get to a boil... My basement hits lower 60s in the winter (hell, its 65 down there right now). I plan on doing the relfectix or more likely a graincoat, but still wonder about it.
Appreciate all the great conversation and tips on this forum... looking forward to joining in the fun.
Cheers!
Doug
BTW - been brewing since '92, all grain, off and on (extract when I want to save time), so I am very familiar with the whole process. I've always gone "cheap" on equipment, and as a result, the brew day is a bit of work... that is what I most look to get out of the GF... a simple, but still, all grain brew day.
My question is, does anyone have a sense for what the lower end of the ambient temperature is where you can still get the GF to a boil? I ready a post recently that somene brewing in the lower 60s and could not get to a boil... My basement hits lower 60s in the winter (hell, its 65 down there right now). I plan on doing the relfectix or more likely a graincoat, but still wonder about it.
Appreciate all the great conversation and tips on this forum... looking forward to joining in the fun.
Cheers!
Doug
BTW - been brewing since '92, all grain, off and on (extract when I want to save time), so I am very familiar with the whole process. I've always gone "cheap" on equipment, and as a result, the brew day is a bit of work... that is what I most look to get out of the GF... a simple, but still, all grain brew day.
singybrue
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My basement is mid-50's in the winter and I've had no problems with the boil, both with and without reflectix.
doogster
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I see you are even a bit farther north than I am... so we are dealing with similar temperatures.
What kind of volumes are you typically working with? And, do you find that the reflectix provides any benefit, or no?
What kind of volumes are you typically working with? And, do you find that the reflectix provides any benefit, or no?
I use reflectix- double wrap with pipe insulation underneath to add an airspace (improves insulating properties) and it works very well. This Saturday I will be brewing with my brothers in the ones unheated garage, temps will be in the 40s. I can report back. If it fails to boil, and I'd be surprised, I will use lid and if still trouble move it indoors.
Second brew day done with the Grainfather. Oh and an ancient orenge mead also
singybrue
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5.5g in the fermenter, I don't do huge beers so no monster grain bills.
Mostly I think it helps speed up heating time, probably helps maintain mash temp better so heater is firing less, reducing scorching.
Keep in mind you're not gonna get a raging volcano boil like a gas burner, you get a rolling boil, which is all you need. Also means less boil-off, so less steam and humidity output when you are brewing inside.
A dedicated 20 amp circuit with no extension cord may be more important, based on what I've read on this thread. That's what I have. You need every watt you can get from the element when it's colder!
d-bone
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I have been using, with absolutely no problems, a SHORT 2 ft 12awg chord just to give me a little reach, because my outlet is 5 ft off the ground, and the power chord on the GF is rediculously short. If you have to use an extension chord, it is important to make sure it is equal or greater gauge.
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