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How long does a brew say take on average for you guys? I might need to brew during the week but I work at 2:30pm-11. Trying to figure out what time to wake up haha.
 
Without cleaning up too much afterwards 4+ hours for me. I usually just rinse out the boiler a little and give it a good cleaning the next day.

This is ideal though if you have any issues it will be closer to 6 hours.

Ballpark numbers: Based on 60min boil.

2.5 hours to mash/sparge
75-90 min to boil
30-45 min to chill and pitch

This is including heat up times. You can cut these numbers down a nice bit by using hot tap water of course. I did it once and can't remeber if i tasted a difference. :) But if i was trying to do this quickly i would use hot tap water. Geez i mashed for 90min last batch. :D

Caveat: This will be a relaxing 4+ hours. :D
 
Anyone come up with any ideas to strengten the upper tubing bracket? Maybe even a few locknut type screws will improve it so it doesn't shift so much.

On further review...I think this is the reason i will takeout the check valve. Those brackets are not really robust enough to be taking the valve apart all the time.
 
Ok, brew # 2 much smoother.

Effeciency was 72% which I'm fine with, it's what I used to get on my propane system. I had an ounce of leaf hops which I used at flameout, along with another ounce of pellet for a total of 4 oz. in the beer. Holy crap, did those leaf soak up a lot of beer. The pump ran, although output was quite slow... wort was 48F coming out!!! Only ended up with 4 gallons in the fermenter, after 5.25 at the end of the boil.

Some tweaking to do on my end, but what a beautiful piece of kit!

Oh, and just a warning, I knocked the rubber end off of the pump filter when I was cleaning, thankfully I found it as I was dumping out the waste water!
 
Quite simple. Obtain a 3/8" brass tee, a 3/8" close nipple and a 1/2" to 3/8" reducer. (Home depot or Lowes carry them.) And a 2" probe thermometer like the ones used on Mash kettles which are normally 1/2" NPT. Disconnect the hose and connect the nipple in place and attach the tee and then attach the reducer to the thermometer and then to the outlet on the tee and reconnect the hose. Of course, use teflon tape on all connections.

outlet flow
nipple
tee reducer thermometer
hose


PSV0rpHrdrJZBVYwJINbRyc8oug2zdvRIFsjf9ak0EY

I really want an inline thermometer for my cf chiller, but mine fits 1/4 inch threads, not 3/8. I can't even use a thrumometer, as the supplied hose is less than 3/8 ID. This means I'd have to reduce from 1/2 to 1/4 inch, so no thermometer probe will be long enough. Any ideas?
 
I really want an inline thermometer for my cf chiller, but mine fits 1/4 inch threads, not 3/8. I can't even use a thrumometer, as the supplied hose is less than 3/8 ID. This means I'd have to reduce from 1/2 to 1/4 inch, so no thermometer probe will be long enough. Any ideas?

I say you should suggest this innovation to the makers of the Grainfather for what could be a product upgrade that is hopefully retroactive to previously sold Grainfather units.

RMCB
 
How long does a brew say take on average for you guys? I might need to brew during the week but I work at 2:30pm-11. Trying to figure out what time to wake up haha.
Brewed today at my brothers house- about 6hrs with thorough clean & dry & packed away.

3 oz of whole hops no issue
Cool. I'm back on fence with hop basket or bags. Today 4oz of hops directly into boiler, pump was slow. Removed check valve (thanks for that guys!), picked up rate but not as good with hop basket. I dunno. With these cold tap temps it cools way down with filter on full and water 1/2 way.

Ok, brew # 2 much smoother.

Effeciency was 72% which I'm fine with.... Only ended up with 4 gallons...
I assume with the low volume you're quoting kettle efficiency?

I really want an inline thermometer for my cf chiller, but mine fits 1/4 inch threads, not 3/8. I can't even use a thrumometer, as the supplied hose is less than 3/8 ID. This means I'd have to reduce from 1/2 to 1/4 inch, so no thermometer probe will be long enough. Any ideas?
I'm trying to estimate wort temp based on cooling water return (red hose). Today wort was 10 below water return temp, I thought it would be closer to 5, so cooled too low again. Imagine that!
 
Anyone come up with any ideas to strengten the upper tubing bracket? Maybe even a few locknut type screws will improve it so it doesn't shift so much.

On further review...I think this is the reason i will takeout the check valve. Those brackets are not really robust enough to be taking the valve apart all the time.

No, it is a bit troubling to think how easy that could snap. If I continue with hop basket or bags I will leave check valve, else may join you there. Removal did help yesterday!

Yeah i brewed 3 batches this week.

First brew: Pump slowed due to not having the little rubber fitting in the filter over the "groove" - it did slowly get in the fermenter though after many stop/go's, whirlpooling etc

Second brew: Worked fine.

Third brew: Clogged due to hop debris in the check valve/spring and ball.

So i think if you clean the check valve after every brew you should be fine or remove it altogether if you experience any problems.

However, i think i'm just going to remove it altogether. The pump rate - after removing the spring/ball - was the best i seen for the chill process after 5 brews. Note: The older GF versions didn't have a check valve or even a ball valve.

And yeah Kampenken GF youtube vids do show how to clean the check valve. I'm not sure of the recommendations per se.

I saw in GF instruction sheet in the assembly section a mention to clean check valve, but missing from cleaning section!

Also I noticed the little black filter pickup grommet has a small tear at the ridge where it installs! Anyone else? I've been careful too as the SS filter has a sharp edge there.
 
That sucks man! Maybe they will send you another one? I think they should of included a spare one myself.

Thinking out loud again :D I think i will keep the the rubber pickup tubing in the filter for now on instead of removing it all the time... shouldn't be much harder to clean...

I really have no idea what to call the thing haha
 
Does anyone know what the pump insides are make of? It most likely is a centrifugal pump with a type of "propeller". I would guess SS but i'm not sure...

It would be nice to know so you can figure out what kind of cleaners you can use. For instance, i used Spray Nine on the outside face of the boiler yestesday and it looks better then it did out of the box!
 
No, it is a bit troubling to think how easy that could snap. If I continue with hop basket or bags I will leave check valve, else may join you there. Removal did help yesterday!







I saw in GF instruction sheet in the assembly section a mention to clean check valve, but missing from cleaning section!



Also I noticed the little black filter pickup grommet has a small tear at the ridge where it installs! Anyone else? I've been careful too as the SS filter has a sharp edge there.


I have a tear in mine also. Do they sell just the grommet? I guess I'd better say something about this to my LHBS where I bought it. I was wondering why they didn't use braided stainless steel or false bottom instead of the filter they chose.
 
That sucks man! Maybe they will send you another one? I think they should of included a spare one myself.

Thinking out loud again :D I think i will keep the the rubber pickup tubing in the filter for now on instead of removing it all the time... shouldn't be much harder to clean...

I really have no idea what to call the thing haha
Yes it does! I will reach out to GF on this and may just leave it well alone too.

Does anyone know what the pump insides are make of? It most likely is a centrifugal pump with a type of "propeller". I would guess SS but i'm not sure...

It would be nice to know so you can figure out what kind of cleaners you can use. For instance, i used Spray Nine on the outside face of the boiler yestesday and it looks better then it did out of the box!
Yeah but now you have to have a prominent place to display your shiny new toy! Maybe tear out some kitchen counter space for it!!

I have a tear in mine also. Do they sell just the grommet? I guess I'd better say something about this to my LHBS where I bought it. I was wondering why they didn't use braided stainless steel or false bottom instead of the filter they chose.
Uh oh, that sounds like a certain weak spot then. 4 brews in for me. I think seabrew might be right to keep it together. At this point it's a small enough tear that there shouldn't be any issue, but still....
 
I really want an inline thermometer for my cf chiller, but mine fits 1/4 inch threads, not 3/8. I can't even use a thrumometer, as the supplied hose is less than 3/8 ID. This means I'd have to reduce from 1/2 to 1/4 inch, so no thermometer probe will be long enough. Any ideas?

Not sure I follow your dilemma...I know they made some changes to the CF chiller since mine but are you saying it is 1/4" instead of 3/8" now? Wow, that's a bit small.... I suspect it is 5/16 if smaller....

you could go from 1/4 or 5/16 to 3/8 coming off chiller with a reducer (reverse thinking) and then continue on as I showed.....
 
I'm having a very hard time getting the bottom plate of the basket to go in without the gasket coming off. I have tried spraying with water but not having any luck... Any tips?
 
Brew #3 went well. Hit all my volumes using a combination of Beersmith and Grainfather website for mash/sparge volumes.

Effeciency is low, about 68-70, could be crush - Graincrusher on factory settings.

I feel a bit stupid, I've only ever used immersion chillers and realized I should be recircing the chilled wort back into the grainfather until the temp drops, otherwise my late hops are going to be wasted by being in contact with hot wort for a long time.

I was able to pump with 4 oz. of hops, it was slow but I kept gently scraping off the filter.
 
Brewing one tomorrow with 7oz of hops. I figure I will just throw it in without hops bag and see what happens. Did one the other day with 3.5 without hops bag and worked well so we'll see.
Lesson learned: if you have a very large grain bill don't forget to remove the top drain pipe before dumping grains. Pipe will dump with grains. Didn't realize until next brew day and garbage men had already came.
 
I'm having a very hard time getting the bottom plate of the basket to go in without the gasket coming off. I have tried spraying with water but not having any luck... Any tips?

I leave it in! Haven't removed it once yet after 4 brews.

Not sure I follow your dilemma...I know they made some changes to the CF chiller since mine but are you saying it is 1/4" instead of 3/8" now? Wow, that's a bit small.... I suspect it is 5/16 if smaller....

you could go from 1/4 or 5/16 to 3/8 coming off chiller with a reducer (reverse thinking) and then continue on as I showed.....

I think he meant his thrumometer is 1/4" not CFC??

...
I feel a bit stupid, I've only ever used immersion chillers and realized I should be recircing the chilled wort back into the grainfather until the temp drops, otherwise my late hops are going to be wasted by being in contact with hot wort for a long time.

I was able to pump with 4 oz. of hops, it was slow but I kept gently scraping off the filter.

You may be over analyzing? I think all with a CFC, not just GF owners, cool on way to fermenter and not back to kettle. Otherwise you will be cooling a very long time. As for hop profile you'll have to work that out- I'm not that advanced to opine, but some research (and experimenting, so easy on GF!), should help.

And I stay away from that filter! Knocked the little black cap off the first time, now I fear a repeat! More I read here, and with my last experience, I like the hops in a basket or bag. Much better pump performance.
 
Grainfather has their own Hop Filter product on the NZ site under accessories. Soon to US I guess.
 
Grainfather has their own Hop Filter product on the NZ site under accessories. Soon to US I guess.


I just feel this should work without using a bag or hop basket. There has to be a DIY filter solution to the slow transfer. As long as I can control my cooling water usage I'm ok. Last brew I used 7 gallons of water to cool 6 gallons down to 64 degrees F. That isn't that bad compared to the water I used to clean a bag or screen. Just think at least 4 gallons are used for post cleaning.
 
I find SS like that. When its clean it puts off a chemically/metal type smell. Your fine, sanitization is a priority when you start cooling the wort down to pitching temp.
 

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