Finished my 2nd brew on the Grainfather, and love it. I have some scorching a the bottom, on the raised element portion. I have oxiclean and bar keepers friend. Is the BKF ok to use with the Grainfather? Never used it before, and was hoping to just let it soak and maybe run the pump to recirculate it.
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I've used it on mine with good results.
Lazer Wolf Brewing
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I havent used BKF in a while but doesnt it say on the back to not leave on the surface for more than a minute before rinsing?
To be specific, I use mine on a scrubby with BKF on it. Cleans it right up. I don't recirculate it.
Welcome to the club! I had excess my first brew and didn't tip the GF towards the pump, but now do. You may want to try the same approach, the GF will suck 'er dry! I'm impressed with your brew time, I will be happy to break 5hrs with a 60 min mash / 60 min boil!
Not sure on your beer consumption, but to your question... I adjust the valve now to run as full open as possible without running over. Had it right at the lip! I hope to accomplish both max amount of recirc as well as keep grain out of boiler, but the latter is really immaterial. My thoughts on efficiency, which I'm hovering around 78-80 excluding one big non GF error: start with GF water guidelines (I use the instructions, not online,but may be the same) but I've cut about .5 gallon out of sparge total, as I've ended with that much over at end. Check mash temp of grain, I found it took ~20 min to settle to my desired temp, and I set +5degree or so over to get there. Drain mash and push top plate down as grain bed compresses, last 14# bill compressed about 1/3. As mash drains out begin sparge, GF calls for .4" over plate, not much! It will take awhile to sparge, but by end of sparge you will be near a boil. Finally, if you're new to AG then check your water. My brother's is so alkaline it kills his efficiency on light color brews. If you had good efficiency on AG previously, well that seems to not apply. Hopefully something there helps!
Have you scrapped the bottom during start of boil? I haven't had much issue and the standard PBW clean cycle has been enough to keep it clean.
MeanLowerLow
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I got an email from Grainfather that the sparge water heater is back in stock (I haven't seen them in stock once since I bought my GF in early January.)
Does anyone have experience with this? Is it worth it, vs just using my old stainless stock pot on my gas range?
Thanks
Does anyone have experience with this? Is it worth it, vs just using my old stainless stock pot on my gas range?
Thanks
Nope, no experience. I use my 4g kettle now, will install a spigot (and thermostat) to "auto-sparge". When my brew space in the basement is complete (installing island in kitchen, then re-purpose the existing "island", two 6' long Ikea tables back to back, as my brew counters. I figure an electric hot plate and my kettle will work just fine as an HLT, and cheaper than their $169 sparge heater, though I can appreciate the look their product offers.
MeanLowerLow
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That sounds like a pretty darn cool brew space!
I got one also (email). I have been waiting on these to come back onto the market. For the convenience I think I am going to get one as soon as I can find a source other than the GF site. Should be hitting the West Coast suppliers soon if not already.
I'm considering either buying a GF or building an electric brewery of my own. It wouldn't be as fancy as the GF, but I think it might be cheaper. The main problem is that my 'brew room' is a converted bathroom - about 8x5 with a laundry sink, counter, and a stool in case I need to get rid of a homebrew whilst I'm brewing.
Here are my 'objections' (if you want to call them that) to the GF:
1) The wattage of the element - only 1600w.
2) The positioning of the reset switch (on the bottom of the unit so you have to tip the whole thing up while it's filled with hot liquid, to reset it?) DUMB IDEA!
3) Sealed Element - I'm an Appliance tech, so I could replace a defective one my self, but instead, I'd have to send it in to the factory and pay $200 bucks for a new "boiler" that I could have repaired myself much cheaper - considering time, shipping, and probable repair/shop costs.
4) No Sight Glass and hard-to-read markings inside the unit where it is impossible to see if the basket is in place or if the basket is up in sparging position.
I really like the idea of the automagical brewday in 6 hours or less, but these things bother me when/if I opt to spend $900 bucks!
For those who already have a GF:
A) I assume that you are satisfied with the calm boil, but do you have the wort reduction you need in the 1 hour boil, or do you have to boil for 90 min to get the proper reduction?
B) Is it possible to re-position the reset switch by drilling a hole in the plastic base so it can be accessible from the outside without tipping the unit?
C) Nothing I can do about the sealed element, but with only a 1 yr warranty on the element, I'm a bit skeptical!
D) Is it possible that there is enough room on the outside of the basket and the inside wall of the unit that a bulkhead fitting could be installed to accommodate a sight glass?
NOTE: These 'objections' are some of the things that I have seen in this thread that are bothersome to some owners in one way or another. and I've only read as far as pg 18! I'm just researching my options at the moment (I figure it will take me at least until August to save out of my S.S./Vets budget for a GF, without spending any of those savings for building an electric brewery). Please be sure that I'm not putting down the GF, IF I do invest in an auto-brew system at all, it's the only one I could afford!
Right now I use an 8 gallon Bayou Classic Turkey Boiler for a mashpot/boilpot, with BIAB, and a 5 gal Tramontina pot for sparge water but I'm not happy with the differing temps between the liquid in the mashpot and the temps in the grain (in a muslin bag) - even with almost constant stirring.
I'm assuming the GF will be about the same size as the Bayou Classic, so I can probably sell most of my excess equipment to offset part of the cost of the GF.
Hopefully someone will be able to give advice as to my concerns while I'm saving up and making up my mind ;>)
THX
Here are my 'objections' (if you want to call them that) to the GF:
1) The wattage of the element - only 1600w.
2) The positioning of the reset switch (on the bottom of the unit so you have to tip the whole thing up while it's filled with hot liquid, to reset it?) DUMB IDEA!
3) Sealed Element - I'm an Appliance tech, so I could replace a defective one my self, but instead, I'd have to send it in to the factory and pay $200 bucks for a new "boiler" that I could have repaired myself much cheaper - considering time, shipping, and probable repair/shop costs.
4) No Sight Glass and hard-to-read markings inside the unit where it is impossible to see if the basket is in place or if the basket is up in sparging position.
I really like the idea of the automagical brewday in 6 hours or less, but these things bother me when/if I opt to spend $900 bucks!
For those who already have a GF:
A) I assume that you are satisfied with the calm boil, but do you have the wort reduction you need in the 1 hour boil, or do you have to boil for 90 min to get the proper reduction?
B) Is it possible to re-position the reset switch by drilling a hole in the plastic base so it can be accessible from the outside without tipping the unit?
C) Nothing I can do about the sealed element, but with only a 1 yr warranty on the element, I'm a bit skeptical!
D) Is it possible that there is enough room on the outside of the basket and the inside wall of the unit that a bulkhead fitting could be installed to accommodate a sight glass?
NOTE: These 'objections' are some of the things that I have seen in this thread that are bothersome to some owners in one way or another. and I've only read as far as pg 18! I'm just researching my options at the moment (I figure it will take me at least until August to save out of my S.S./Vets budget for a GF, without spending any of those savings for building an electric brewery). Please be sure that I'm not putting down the GF, IF I do invest in an auto-brew system at all, it's the only one I could afford!
Right now I use an 8 gallon Bayou Classic Turkey Boiler for a mashpot/boilpot, with BIAB, and a 5 gal Tramontina pot for sparge water but I'm not happy with the differing temps between the liquid in the mashpot and the temps in the grain (in a muslin bag) - even with almost constant stirring.
I'm assuming the GF will be about the same size as the Bayou Classic, so I can probably sell most of my excess equipment to offset part of the cost of the GF.
Hopefully someone will be able to give advice as to my concerns while I'm saving up and making up my mind ;>)
THX
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seabrew8
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I'll give you my thoughts on the first 2. 
1. Whats your issue with 1600w? The boil is fine but it takes time.
2. Never had to reset the element yet. I've used the unit now dozens of times from cleaning to brewing. Probably a good idea to test the element with a few liters of water before you fill it to mash volume if you want to confirm it works.
1. Whats your issue with 1600w? The boil is fine but it takes time.
2. Never had to reset the element yet. I've used the unit now dozens of times from cleaning to brewing. Probably a good idea to test the element with a few liters of water before you fill it to mash volume if you want to confirm it works.
I'll sell ya my old 10 gallon electric system with PID control and 5500 watt ULD element for $900 shipped (lower 48 only). Make it easier for ya. It has a site glass as well. PM if interested.
I'll give you my thoughts on the first 2.
1. Whats your issue with 1600w? The boil is fine but it takes time.
2. Never had to reset the element yet. I've used the unit now dozens of times from cleaning to brewing. Probably a good idea to test the element with a few liters of water before you fill it to mash volume if you want to confirm it works.
1) I'd just like it to be a bit more, but, if that's all they got and it works well, I'd be a happy camper ;>)
2) Just wondering = I've just been following some problems with the element and the reset switch in Dec of 2015 (pg 30 something), but thanx for the info - it's appreciated!
MeanLowerLow
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1) 1600W works fine - even a little better if you insulate your GF. Would I prefer more? Yes, but it doesn't require 220 and I've had no off flavors in 10+ batches
2) You should only really need to reset if you turn the heating element on without liquid in there (in which case, it's already empty!)
3) I think GF warranty is pretty good (they specifically say they'll most likely help you out of warranty, but no guaranty). I've also never heard of element problems
4) A sight glass would have been nice, I agree. But I have no problems calculating efficiency, etc. The key is to use liters
A) Use the GF calculators - they are perfect for a 1h boil. I add an extra L for a 90 min boil
B) No idea, but see above response. You shouldn't ever need to reset if you're using it properly
C) See above
D) I'd be interested if there is, but I'm not going to use my GF as the guinea pig!
I think you're going to be really happy with the GF - I don't hear of too many people who aren't. I know I sure am! Are there some limitations? Yes, but when you compare price and then take into account that every system has some kind of limitation, I think it's the best value for an all in one electric system out there. My $.02
2) You should only really need to reset if you turn the heating element on without liquid in there (in which case, it's already empty!)
3) I think GF warranty is pretty good (they specifically say they'll most likely help you out of warranty, but no guaranty). I've also never heard of element problems
4) A sight glass would have been nice, I agree. But I have no problems calculating efficiency, etc. The key is to use liters
A) Use the GF calculators - they are perfect for a 1h boil. I add an extra L for a 90 min boil
B) No idea, but see above response. You shouldn't ever need to reset if you're using it properly
C) See above
D) I'd be interested if there is, but I'm not going to use my GF as the guinea pig!
I think you're going to be really happy with the GF - I don't hear of too many people who aren't. I know I sure am! Are there some limitations? Yes, but when you compare price and then take into account that every system has some kind of limitation, I think it's the best value for an all in one electric system out there. My $.02
@ MeanLowerLow .....
"3) I think GF warranty is pretty good (they specifically say they'll most likely help you out of warranty, but no guaranty). I've also never heard of element problems"
Check with Yambor44 in the post preceeding .... on p.32 he ran into an element problem right out of the box, and along a few pages, enfox had a reset switch problem right out of the box, I haven't got to where either of them had the problem resolved .... yet! .... I'm still reading, only up to pg 40 so far :>)!
"3) I think GF warranty is pretty good (they specifically say they'll most likely help you out of warranty, but no guaranty). I've also never heard of element problems"
Check with Yambor44 in the post preceeding .... on p.32 he ran into an element problem right out of the box, and along a few pages, enfox had a reset switch problem right out of the box, I haven't got to where either of them had the problem resolved .... yet! .... I'm still reading, only up to pg 40 so far :>)!
No Thanks ... I'm planning to reduce the size of my brew equipment, not increase
I've never had a need to make any more than 5 or 5.5 gal at a time. I'll just keep saving till I get there, I've pretty much made up my mind that I won't be building an electric brewery - sounds like a rich man's sport, not an old man's sport 
I do have another question tho .... approximately how much sparge water do you regularly use with the GrainFather - or maybe I should ask what is the max amount of sparge water you have ever used with the GF? The reason I ask is that if it is only a gallon or two, I would sell both of my 5 gal pots as well as the 8 gal pot, and just buy a 2 or 3 gal pot for sparging. THX
As well, I wonder if the Colorado Brewing System sells those stands that they use to pull the basket up with? Lifting the 5 gal and 8 gal pots with liquid in them is getting a bit too much for this old fart. If the dimensions were right, I might be able to put that up on the counter for lifting the basket out of the GF.
No Thanks ... I'm planning to reduce the size of my brew equipment, not increase
I do have another question tho .... approximately how much sparge water do you regularly use with the GrainFather - or maybe I should ask what is the max amount of sparge water you have ever used with the GF? The reason I ask is that if it is only a gallon or two, I would sell both of my 5 gal pots as well as the 8 gal pot, and just buy a 2 or 3 gal pot for sparging. THX
As well, I wonder if the Colorado Brewing System sells those stands that they use to pull the basket up with? Lifting the 5 gal and 8 gal pots with liquid in them is getting a bit too much for this old fart. If the dimensions were right, I might be able to put that up on the counter for lifting the basket out of the GF.
Then you need to buy a GF and be done with it. I thought I'd made a mistake after I purchased it. I didn't think my boil was vigorous enough. After I made my first batch though, I'm really happy with it. That's the common thread here, everyone seems to love the ease of the brew day.
All good questions, none of us here are thin skinned to take your points as criticism of our choices!
Good thread here.1) I'm with Seabrew, its not an issue, unless you're impatient! I find preparing water additions, measuring and milling grains, measuring hops, sometimes finalizing brew recipe even, use up most of the time for water to get to mash/strike temp. By end of sparge I'm likely at ~200F so not long to wait to boil.
2) Not been an issue here, but your point is solid. I'd hate to run into an issue.
4) Totally agree! I use the flashlight on my phone to read those damn markings and have thought about adding a sight glass (well after warranty period, and besides by then we'll hear someone how has done this first, maybe you??!)
A) I wouldn't call it a calm boil, I find about .8g boil off/hr vs my 1g/hr on propane. I'm perfectly fine, just need to adjust water accordingly.
B) Let us know when you do!
C) Understood. I too have heard positive GF support, it is a consideration.
D) part 1- Yes, I hope so, I'd like to add one, but really when my process is all fully dialed in, this will be mostly bling. part 2- ha!, we've been discussing that recently here (last few pages). I haven't yet posted my experience on my recent Sunday brew, but did find some lower grain bed temps v STC read out. short story- it did stabilize out after ~20 min, but I didn't read the full grain bed- more to come.
As for $900, read back a few pages, there's an internet seller (E-Bay??) who is an authorized GF distributor and takes offers, I think folks have bought for 750-800. Make an offer and post back here what you paid!
Exactly, Check w/Yambor44! He'll let you know how it resolved.
BTW- you can read a long post like this much quicker if you select thread tools, then printable version and select the max in the viewer. Makes it much easier to read long threads.
Keep a 5 g pot. I've sparged up to ~3.5g. The GF does run a thinner mash (~1.62qt/#) so less sparge water is required, and need to consider your boil off. No idea on the CBS stands, but you won't need it if you go GF.
Exactly!
Thanks, I hope so, had to do a little bit of work down there. House is ~100yo with basement height at 7' max leading to a space, no brew pub!
It's in a corner with a (covered) sump pump below. I've re-painted the stucco'd walls white as well as all the drain pipes white, cleaned up the wires above (some removed, others re-routed and nailed into space neater) and began polishing some copper heat pipes. Painted floor as well. Need to address the steps on the walk out, paint the walkout area as well as the door, then finally install the kitchen counter when I complete my kitchen project. Good thing I like doing all this work, labor of love!Thanks, I hope so, had to do a little bit of work down there. House is ~100yo with basement height at 7' max leading to a space, no brew pub!
This makes me think of my basement. House built in the 30s with probably if I'm lucky 6.5 feet at the highest point. Have really struggled to figure out how to set up some kind of brewing space and the GF I think is the best bet for the space I have to work with. Just trying to figure out some reasonable ventilation. I do have a sink and window above it so have everything close by at least along with everything I need down there.
scallopking
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#4 sight glass is the only issue I have. that would be nice instead of the flashlight. I brew almost every weekend, beers are great! go for it.
My plan is to brew by the steps going outside with fan on steps (about 3-4' off ground) directed towards the door. If it doesn't pull enough I will rig up a vent that is rigid yet moveable or possibly run the dehumidifier, I boil off about 3/4g per hour, across the full basement with door even partially open it should be ok. Time will tell!
Sounds good and I hope that does the trick for you. This will be my first batch on the GF and first time brewing down there so for this round will open the window and try to blow the steam in that direction with a fan. Didn't get a chance to come up with a better option yet but will definitely be looking into it.
Went ahead and ordered one from GF USA online yesterday. I'll post back here once my setup is complete. Mocked this up from others on here or FB GF page (see pic) very smart design I thought so we copied it. Very small footprint. I'll probably need to add another 6" to the top for the sparge water heater so that the spigot clears the grain basket when it's raised for direct sparging.
I can only assume it will work flawlessly with the GF and I am stocked to finally be done with chasing my tail so to speak. Storage and brew days will be so much easier now.
All three batches have come out really nice on the GF (all IPA's) so I for one am happy with the results it produced and don't see the need to change anything. I may add some accessories like the Alembic top and whatnot for distilling. Looney Larry recently posted a video on YT using his during the boil instead of the lid. I'm still waiting to hear back on the boil off rate but it looked like a good alternative to a more vigorous boil if you are looking for one. Thats something I am testing. I want to see if it affects the flavor profile compared to the first two I did without the lid. The one I brewed with the lid was an exact clone of the second beer with the exception of the 2nd beer didn't get dry hopped. So I'll need another test with the lid on to compare to the 3rd beer with has more of a hop presence, mainly in the bitter.
Here's my stand and a link to LL's video.
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scallopking
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nice! what kind of wood did you use?
Will an AutoSiphon work with a GF? I have the tall one - abt 23-24" - and the short one - abt 12-13" ...... I agree on the carboys - they have to be soaked forever sometimes to get the Krausen off the sides close to the neck. I'm going to sell mine and get another BigMouth Bubbler - Cleaning that is a breeze!
I don't have a GF but- you might pick up astringency by draining that last bit of wort.
As for carboys ( I use BB's) I rarely even need a brush. I soak for an hour on average w/ hot water & 1 Tbsp/gal of B-Brite & hot water. I rinse thoroughly just after emptying & then clean as above.
If you're letting your dirty carboys sit a day or so before cleaning I can understand your difficulty in cleaning.
As for carboys ( I use BB's) I rarely even need a brush. I soak for an hour on average w/ hot water & 1 Tbsp/gal of B-Brite & hot water. I rinse thoroughly just after emptying & then clean as above.
If you're letting your dirty carboys sit a day or so before cleaning I can understand your difficulty in cleaning.
Hey guys, just got mine today and I have a question. Burner and pump seem to be working fine with no issues. However, Im not able to set the temperature. I try holding down Set or Reset as well as the up and down arrows and I get nothing. It just keeps reading out the current temperature (which works). Any idea? I've tried unplugging and plugging in the computer multiple times and still no response. Do I have a faulty computer or am I missing something stupid and obvious?
RockyMountainCraftBrewing
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Do you keg your beer?If so I highly suggest you switch to corny kegs for fermenting.Use a pipe cutter to nip 3 inches off the liquid dip tube and you are good to go.For blow off all you do is snap on a gas connector to the gas post with a couple feet of hose on it running to a jug of star san.No worries about breakage and when the yeast is done it's work it all falls to the bottom due to the absence of light.Cleaning is an absolute joy.Just bring a litre of water to a boil in a kettle and pour it in and add a table spoon of dishwasher detergent.Shake for a minute and then let it rest for 5 minutes upside down.Repeat the shake and empty and it is clean as can be.Once in a while you have to do a bit of scrubbing near the top.
Transferring to a serving keg is a snap.Put the fermenting keg into your kegerator/keezer over night then next day you just simply hook up a liquid to liquid jumper(I use threaded liquid connectors for this) from the fermenting keg to a sanitized serving keg.Connect the gas and turn it on at 4 PSI.No worries about infections with racking canes etc and ZERO sediment etc.Soon as you are done the transfer you can force carbonate the beer as it is already chilled
RMCB
I've held it for over 30 seconds as I did every other button. Still nothing. Anything you can think of that you had to do special the first time? Or is there anyway to do a hard reset on the unit besides the bottom of the boiler (I've tried that)?
BrewMeister49
Well-Known Member
On my old system I was routinely getting 63-65% efficiency. Not sure how expecting a 1.060 and getting 1.048 is 78%? Maybe more like 58%? It's just how much sugar your extracting from the grain. I.E - 100% eff is getting 100% of the sugars out. So you use far less grain than say 60% eff. On my old system I was happy with 65%. Now on the GF in getting 80% and using a lot less Grain and getting more consistent beers. Love the system!
I would literally time how long I was pressing it with a watch. Then, I would call GF tech support. If you've got a hard number (e.g. 60 seconds with no "set" appearing), I would think they'd just send you a new controller unit. There really wasn't any other thing that needed doing. You do have the right toggle switch set to mash right? I think if it's set to boil, it bypasses the temp controller, although I wouldn't think it would interfere with the ability to set a target temp.
I used EBay seller igobru's Make An Offer @$800 and the guy I recommended bought their GF for $750!!! Free shipping and they are a certified partner too. Crazy.
Do you keg your beer?If so I highly suggest you switch to corny kegs for fermenting.Use a pipe cutter to nip 3 inches off the liquid dip tube and you are good to go.For blow off all you do is snap on a gas connector to the gas post with a couple feet of hose on it running to a jug of star san.No worries about breakage and when the yeast is done it's work it all falls to the bottom due to the absence of light.Cleaning is an absolute joy.Just bring a litre of water to a boil in a kettle and pour it in and add a table spoon of dishwasher detergent.Shake for a minute and then let it rest for 5 minutes upside down.Repeat the shake and empty and it is clean as can be.Once in a while you have to do a bit of scrubbing near the top.
Transferring to a serving keg is a snap.Put the fermenting keg into your kegerator/keezer over night then next day you just simply hook up a liquid to liquid jumper(I use threaded liquid connectors for this) from the fermenting keg to a sanitized serving keg.Connect the gas and turn it on at 4 PSI.No worries about infections with racking canes etc and ZERO sediment etc.Soon as you are done the transfer you can force carbonate the beer as it is already chilled
RMCB
This is my next step. I picked up some lids from AIH for this purpose. Plan on rotating 2 kegs in keezer, 1 in primary and 1 in secondary.
What's a liquid jumper? I was just going to force it through under CO2.
Thanks. I'll give them a call. I tried on every combination of settings possible.
Yeah, something is amiss. I hold set button and in about one second it displays SET, and from there you set your temp. Sorry to hear you're results but I agree just a new STC should fix your problem.
When will we hear $725 or $700?!!
Thanks, good luck on your first brew, let us know how it goes.
Also to add, I'm going to try to brew outside too on my deck. Have a 15a service out there that I will try first, as others here have had success using, else I will make a 20a short extension cord. I enjoy outdoor brew days when it's nice out!
RockyMountainCraftBrewing
Well-Known Member
I made one out of 2 threaded swivels etc to attach to two ball lock liquid posts.Hook the chilled fermenting keg to the serving keg liquid to liquid and then connect CO2 to transfer the beer over.
Also I have never needed to do secondary when fermenting in a keg.
RMCB
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