Grainfather!!

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Hey guys I have done a few batches on the GF and love the efficiency. I am having a bit of an issue with the counter flow chiller. It takes me 30 minute or more to cool my wort. I have slowed the flow rate so the wort has more time for temperature exchange. I have even submerged the cold water tube in an ice bath. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thank you very much.

Are you using the cf chiller correctly? You're not looking at the temperature readout on the controller are you? It should cool it pretty much instantly. Once you turn on the water it should cool it instantly, only run it back through your grainfather while you're santizing.
 
Hey guys I have done a few batches on the GF and love the efficiency. I am having a bit of an issue with the counter flow chiller. It takes me 30 minute or more to cool my wort. I have slowed the flow rate so the wort has more time for temperature exchange. I have even submerged the cold water tube in an ice bath. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thank you very much.

Interesting. I used to wait until the whole wort was cooled, man long day. Now just wait until I feel the output line cool and stick it in the fermenter. It only takes a a couple minutes. What source is the chiller hooked up to, is there enough flow? I run connected to a hose barely turned on. I changed out the hosing so I have to route it to prevent it from softening and kinking. Might it be restricted somewhere?
 
When I chill my wort I can almost go directly to the fermentation vessel. It's that fast getting it down to pitching temp and that's with it open full.

Only issue I have had with chilling is some hops creating a clog and slowing things down.
 
Random question - While I use the GF Counteflow Chiller, I was wodnering about making a connection to a Plate Chiller in place of it, at some stage, something with a more efficient cooling capacity. (don't ask)
Would it be easy to make a connection?
 
Hey guys I have done a few batches on the GF and love the efficiency. I am having a bit of an issue with the counter flow chiller. It takes me 30 minute or more to cool my wort. I have slowed the flow rate so the wort has more time for temperature exchange. I have even submerged the cold water tube in an ice bath. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thank you very much.

Both my cold tap water source and the GF ball valve are not turned all the way open and I get a nice 68 to 70 degree direct-to-fermenter flow. I never open the ball valve up full because that tends to lead to filter clogs, at least for me.
 
Random question - While I use the GF Counteflow Chiller, I was wodnering about making a connection to a Plate Chiller in place of it, at some stage, something with a more efficient cooling capacity. (don't ask)
Would it be easy to make a connection?

I think the counterflow chiller with the GF is way better than my plate chiller in my old system.
 
Random question - While I use the GF Counteflow Chiller, I was wodnering about making a connection to a Plate Chiller in place of it, at some stage, something with a more efficient cooling capacity. (don't ask)
Would it be easy to make a connection?

It was for me on an early model. I used a Blichmann therminator in place of the CFC and it set right on the top just like the CFC. You just have to figure out the connections using some hose barbs properly sized. I was told the hose and connections have changed since my purchase (June 15) so it may not be as easy now. I have brass connections and I hear they are SS now and a different hose ID for the outflow.....

I don't use the therminator any longer though and get good results with the CFC by pumping ice water through it. The therminator was an experiment and comparison to the CFC.
 
+1 to the CFC. It's worked amazing for me as well. I am blessed with damn near freezing temps coming out of the ground up here in Alaska. If I don't throttle the water flow from my garden hose it will cool it down to 40-50 degrees in one pass.
 
I opened mine up and everything looks great, except for a few small dents around the inside where the feet on the grain basket would hit. There's 4 areas, 1 for each foot, and not sure I care or not, especially since a grain coat is on the list and would cover it, but it's still technically damage to the unit.

I ran a boil test and cleaned it last night, everything works great. What's everybody's opinion? You can't really see them unless you feel around or know to look for it, but they are there. Is it even worth getting a replacement kettle?
 
I opened mine up and everything looks great, except for a few small dents around the inside where the feet on the grain basket would hit. There's 4 areas, 1 for each foot, and not sure I care or not, especially since a grain coat is on the list and would cover it, but it's still technically damage to the unit.

I ran a boil test and cleaned it last night, everything works great. What's everybody's opinion? You can't really see them unless you feel around or know to look for it, but they are there. Is it even worth getting a replacement kettle?

Personally I wouldn't care. I'm sure ill knick mine up sooner or later...But each person is different.

I bet they would replace it if you like
 
Hey guys I have done a few batches on the GF and love the efficiency. I am having a bit of an issue with the counter flow chiller. It takes me 30 minute or more to cool my wort. I have slowed the flow rate so the wort has more time for temperature exchange. I have even submerged the cold water tube in an ice bath. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thank you very much.[/QUOTE


For chilling I hook up a washing machine hose to my faucet and then clamp the hose to my immersion chiller.I put the IC into one of my sinks and dump in 4 trays of ice cubes and partially fill the sink with cold water.I then hook up the CFC to the outlet side of the IC and use my other sink for the hot water run off.I have my batch of wort cooled down in no time.I had issues with hop blockage but solved that by using hop bags which also makes cleanup easier.

Best method for faster cooling is an ice bather pre-chiller feeding into the CFC.If you dont have an immersion chiller just make one out of 20 feet of 3/8th's copper pipe.

RMCB
 
Best method for faster cooling is an ice bather pre-chiller feeding into the CFC.If you dont have an immersion chiller just make one out of 20 feet of 3/8th's copper pipe.

RMCB

I'd say this is second best. Best is direct exchange of the wort with ice water, pumping ice water through the CFC exchanger.

Also, adding salt to your ice water will help the performance of a pre chiller.
 
Tap water was 93*F already.........in a couple weeks it'll creep up to 100*F........not looking forward to it :D

Still have my old IC, will need to rig something up with some ice packs I have for camping to get it down to fermentation temps.
 
Tap water was 93*F already.........in a couple weeks it'll creep up to 100*F........not looking forward to it :D

Still have my old IC, will need to rig something up with some ice packs I have for camping to get it down to fermentation temps.

Ding, ding!! That is the issue here. It's obvious but first part of discussion is your cooling water temps. No method will cool wort better than to within a few degrees of that. I had great success earlier with colder tap temps now I need to pre chill with 70+ degree temps. I also didn't care too much. Just put in ferm chamber to get the final temp drop and then pitched.
 
Ding, ding!! That is the issue here. It's obvious but first part of discussion is your cooling water temps. No method will cool wort better than to within a few degrees of that. I had great success earlier with colder tap temps now I need to pre chill with 70+ degree temps. I also didn't care too much. Just put in ferm chamber to get the final temp drop and then pitched.

That's what I did with the last batch, got it down to upper 80's then let the A/C take it under 80 then pitched once cooled. I've been using the evaporative cooling method.....wet towel wrapped around the FV, with a small fan blowing on it. Can maintain 66*F fermentation temps. SWMBO doesn't mind a kegerator and a keezer in the den, but she had to draw the line at a fermentation chamber. :D :mug:
 
Tap water was 93*F already.........in a couple weeks it'll creep up to 100*F........not looking forward to it :D

Still have my old IC, will need to rig something up with some ice packs I have for camping to get it down to fermentation temps.

when i upgraded from a 20' to a 50' diy chiller, i still had long chill times. then i used the old 20' as a pre-chiller in an ice bath. BOOM! it now only takes 30 minutes without even having to put my boil kettle in an ice bath. planning to keep my pre-chiller when i do get a GF.
 
I did have an idea today that I want to try out and that is to put the grain basket/tube back into the boiler once the sparge is done with only the bottom screen in place.This would be to act as a hop filter that could be lifted out after the boil is done and it may even help to get a more vigorous boil.

RMCB

I haven't tried this yet with the Grainfather, but I have heard other brew in a basket systems that the boil overflows between the tube and the kettle. I guess the volume of your boil would have a lot to do with it.

Has anyone tried pumping the mash into a separate kettle, start to boil that, then add sparge water to the Grainfather, recirculate, then pull grains and combine 1st and 2nd runnings? Kind of like a batch sparge.
 
. I've been using the evaporative cooling method.....wet towel wrapped around the FV, with a small fan blowing on it. Can maintain 66*F fermentation temps. SWMBO doesn't mind a kegerator and a keezer in the den, but she had to draw the line at a fermentation chamber. :D :mug:
Sounds good to me! Now if you're really handy with wood maybe you can make the FC look like a nice sideboard table, and get her on board! :)
Cheers!
 
It´s just a couple of fancy steel pipes. How is it possible that it takes so long to produce?

Oh I live this pain in my job. I completely understand where they are coming from. First it takes a month to get from China to the US via sea. Up to 8 weeks for the contact manufacturer to get supplies. Then they have to update supply chain systems to reflect inventory and demand.

I don't doubt their lead time but....

If they were a mature business with predictable run rates then they could risk buy 1k micro pipe units but they are not there.....yet...
 
How are you guys cleaning yours? The last two times I got mine out to brew I guess I didn't dry the chiller off good enough and ended up with some moldy spots on it. After brewing, I just rinse out with water and clean out everything and run hot water through the chiller.

Also, mashing in my 2.5 gallon batch now (no micro pipework if you're just tuning in) All is well so far, but I am not using the top plate for the mash.
 
How are you guys cleaning yours? The last two times I got mine out to brew I guess I didn't dry the chiller off good enough and ended up with some moldy spots on it. After brewing, I just rinse out with water and clean out everything and run hot water through the chiller.

Also, mashing in my 2.5 gallon batch now (no micro pipework if you're just tuning in) All is well so far, but I am not using the top plate for the mash.


I usually just run the hot cleaning solution through mine for 10 minutes and then run fresh water through it with the pump and then after I kill the pump, I wait for all the water to drain back into the grainfather. Another thing to do is let the chiller sit out on your kitchen counter and let it drain for a day in the sink in case there is any water left in it. Storing the chiller inside a less humid environment may help dry it out as well. So far, no mold on mine and I'm in super humid Houston.
 
I just got my Grainfather and did a brew yesterday. Overall it went well, though left me fairly tired as I brewed on my countertop instead of the floor to keep my curious 2 yo daughter from it and having to police that all day. I needed a step stool, and really the worst time was sparging using a quart at a time. Up and down the ladder.

I'm now planning to brew only in the evenings, and use my old kettle with a ball valve on it for sparging, though I guess I need to still elevate it from the counter a bit. I really wish the pump had a T valve on the inlet and could be re-purposed to pump from a HLT by closing/opening a couple valves. For cleaning and such it would also be nice if the pump flow could be reversed to suck cleaner from a keg etc. I guess pouring isn't that big of a deal, it's just that the pump moves water already and is there and saving my back was a big reason to go with this thing!

I don't use the chiller, so I re-purposed the chiller input to hot fill a keg directly to use the no-chill method. This worked very well, I just put an unconnected gas connector on to act as the air outlet and the pump filled the keg with no work!

Also, I though the GF app was going to be nice, but it's a bit of a flop IMO. Units are all over the place (0.5 oz of hops in recipe becomes 10oz somehow during a brew session), 4 lb of grain now shows up as 3 lb 15.85 oz, and I'm supposed to boil the kettle at 100*F! Anyway, it does work overall, as was pretty good for water calculations (though these would be nicer to be rounded rather than 3.83 gallons for both sparge and mash I would do more like 4 gallons and 3.6 gallons, or since the markings on the GF are in liters, convert for filling and give us the 3.83 gallons is really 14.5 liters), but the confusion during brew day isn't worth the extra reminders for what to do at each step. I found myself knowing what to do anyway (maybe because I read most of this thread and watched plenty of YouTube before my first brew).



 
So, I'm convinced the micro pipework is a waste of money. I followed the small grain bill calculations and didn't use the top plate, and ended up with 2.5 gallons exactly in my fermenter. Didn't see any grain particles in the fermenter either. Super happy with todays brew day. Will post the finished product in a few weeks.
 
I don't use the chiller, so I re-purposed the chiller input to hot fill a keg directly to use the no-chill method. This worked very well, I just put an unconnected gas connector on to act as the air outlet and the pump filled the keg with no work!

What do you do about the air in the keg after pumping the wort from the Grainfather? If you leave it in there do you notice any oxidation? I've been fermenting in kegs for a while now and will not go back to glass. If I could eliminate another piece of equipment (the chiller) from my cleaning process that would be awesome! :)
 
What do you do about the air in the keg after pumping the wort from the Grainfather? If you leave it in there do you notice any oxidation? I've been fermenting in kegs for a while now and will not go back to glass. If I could eliminate another piece of equipment (the chiller) from my cleaning process that would be awesome! :)

I pump, once full I seal it up, tip it to sanitize the top of the keg with hot wort (similar to no-chill cubes). Then I put it on CO2 and purge like a normal keg to get rid of the air.

I don't know if it affects the process after that. I think normal no-chill plastic cubes they squeeze out all the air. My general thought is that CO2 should protect it enough even when hot as I don't think it would easily be dissolved in the liquid until cold.

Kegs aren't exactly designed for negative pressure, so I like to keep it on CO2 until cool. But generally I've tried the other way and they do seem to keep a good seal with negative pressure from the cooling process, so overall it may not matter or may depend on the age of your seals and if you use keg lube or not.
 
I pump, once full I seal it up, tip it to sanitize the top of the keg with hot wort (similar to no-chill cubes). Then I put it on CO2 and purge like a normal keg to get rid of the air.

I don't know if it affects the process after that. I think normal no-chill plastic cubes they squeeze out all the air. My general thought is that CO2 should protect it enough even when hot as I don't think it would easily be dissolved in the liquid until cold.

Kegs aren't exactly designed for negative pressure, so I like to keep it on CO2 until cool. But generally I've tried the other way and they do seem to keep a good seal with negative pressure from the cooling process, so overall it may not matter or may depend on the age of your seals and if you use keg lube or not.

Thanks! Might have to try this.. :mug:
 
"Also, I though the GF app was going to be nice, but it's a bit of a flop IMO. Units are all over the place (0.5 oz of hops in recipe becomes 10oz somehow during a brew session), 4 lb of grain now shows up as 3 lb 15.85 oz, and I'm supposed to boil the kettle at 100*F! "

That's a shame. It must have gotten wonky on you. It held all my measurements fine so far on my 2 brews that I have done with it.
 
So, I'm convinced the micro pipework is a waste of money. I followed the small grain bill calculations and didn't use the top plate, and ended up with 2.5 gallons exactly in my fermenter. Didn't see any grain particles in the fermenter either. Super happy with todays brew day. Will post the finished product in a few weeks.


That's great to hear for those who have not bought it yet.! The only thing I think could be a possible issue is if you do a sticky mash and end up with a stuck sparge. I think the overflow preventing grain bits from being in the boil is one benefit of having the micropipe work. But if it is working fine without, then that is pretty awesome. Cheers!
 
How are you guys cleaning yours? The last two times I got mine out to brew I guess I didn't dry the chiller off good enough and ended up with some moldy spots on it. After brewing, I just rinse out with water and clean out everything and run hot water through the chiller.

Also, mashing in my 2.5 gallon batch now (no micro pipework if you're just tuning in) All is well so far, but I am not using the top plate for the mash.
I run thru the GF cleaning steps- PBW followed by a cold water rinse cycle. I do lift it up with hoses down to drain, it's a bit of a dance but appears to drain out reasonably well, however when I begin the sterilization process post boil I capture the first cup from the outlet which is clear (take off a bit of wort too) and toss. So water is certainly left behind in CFC. I've read here where some blow it out, I've thought about running my air compressor thru the lines but haven't yet. Mold? Where on CFC did you see that? Scary.
I've done two 2.5 batches and used top plate. Much greater % of mash water at expense of sparge water. Interesting thought to try without top plate- no channelling concerns?
 
Hey all, Just got the Grainfather for my birthday and was given several partial mash kits to go with it (oops, so close...). Question: can I do the partial mash at 1.5L/lb in the GF, drain, and then add more water, boil and add the liquid malt? I'm dying to try it out and it's all I have at the moment. Thanks for the feedback.
 
Hey all, Just got the Grainfather for my birthday and was given several partial mash kits to go with it (oops, so close...). Question: can I do the partial mash at 1.5L/lb in the GF, drain, and then add more water, boil and add the liquid malt? I'm dying to try it out and it's all I have at the moment. Thanks for the feedback.

People have done all extract with the grainfather. Basic level it's an electric kettle.

I would mash the grains, sparge ( add more water), stir in liquid malt then boil down to your batch volume.
 
"Also, I though the GF app was going to be nice, but it's a bit of a flop IMO. Units are all over the place (0.5 oz of hops in recipe becomes 10oz somehow during a brew session), 4 lb of grain now shows up as 3 lb 15.85 oz, and I'm supposed to boil the kettle at 100*F! "

That's a shame. It must have gotten wonky on you. It held all my measurements fine so far on my 2 brews that I have done with it.

I noticed this also. Figure I would try the app, looked neat and well laid out. Once I finally inputted my recipe I clicked save and opened it back up again. All the measurements changed slightly. Not sure what the glitch is but I won't be using it again.

If they could get the units to hold to what i input I might try it again. Would really be interested if I could import a recipe from BeerSmith into it since that's where all my beers start.
 
I noticed this also. Figure I would try the app, looked neat and well laid out. Once I finally inputted my recipe I clicked save and opened it back up again. All the measurements changed slightly. Not sure what the glitch is but I won't be using it again.

If they could get the units to hold to what i input I might try it again. Would really be interested if I could import a recipe from BeerSmith into it since that's where all my beers start.

I downloaded the app, but never used it. Once I saw you had to reload all your recipe info in, I said forget it.

Beersmith with the tweaks has come out spot on for my batches so far. I just use the Beersmith app on my Nexus. It's all good.
 
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