lewandowski46
Well-Known Member
Personally I wouldn't care. I'm sure ill knick mine up sooner or later...But each person is different.
I bet they would replace it if you like
Yeah, I'll just throw a grain coat on it and call it a day
Personally I wouldn't care. I'm sure ill knick mine up sooner or later...But each person is different.
I bet they would replace it if you like
Hey guys I have done a few batches on the GF and love the efficiency. I am having a bit of an issue with the counter flow chiller. It takes me 30 minute or more to cool my wort. I have slowed the flow rate so the wort has more time for temperature exchange. I have even submerged the cold water tube in an ice bath. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thank you very much.[/QUOTE
For chilling I hook up a washing machine hose to my faucet and then clamp the hose to my immersion chiller.I put the IC into one of my sinks and dump in 4 trays of ice cubes and partially fill the sink with cold water.I then hook up the CFC to the outlet side of the IC and use my other sink for the hot water run off.I have my batch of wort cooled down in no time.I had issues with hop blockage but solved that by using hop bags which also makes cleanup easier.
Best method for faster cooling is an ice bather pre-chiller feeding into the CFC.If you dont have an immersion chiller just make one out of 20 feet of 3/8th's copper pipe.
RMCB
Best method for faster cooling is an ice bather pre-chiller feeding into the CFC.If you dont have an immersion chiller just make one out of 20 feet of 3/8th's copper pipe.
RMCB
Tap water was 93*F already.........in a couple weeks it'll creep up to 100*F........not looking forward to it
Still have my old IC, will need to rig something up with some ice packs I have for camping to get it down to fermentation temps.
Ding, ding!! That is the issue here. It's obvious but first part of discussion is your cooling water temps. No method will cool wort better than to within a few degrees of that. I had great success earlier with colder tap temps now I need to pre chill with 70+ degree temps. I also didn't care too much. Just put in ferm chamber to get the final temp drop and then pitched.
Tap water was 93*F already.........in a couple weeks it'll creep up to 100*F........not looking forward to it
Still have my old IC, will need to rig something up with some ice packs I have for camping to get it down to fermentation temps.
I did have an idea today that I want to try out and that is to put the grain basket/tube back into the boiler once the sparge is done with only the bottom screen in place.This would be to act as a hop filter that could be lifted out after the boil is done and it may even help to get a more vigorous boil.
RMCB
Sounds good to me! Now if you're really handy with wood maybe you can make the FC look like a nice sideboard table, and get her on board!. I've been using the evaporative cooling method.....wet towel wrapped around the FV, with a small fan blowing on it. Can maintain 66*F fermentation temps. SWMBO doesn't mind a kegerator and a keezer in the den, but she had to draw the line at a fermentation chamber.![]()
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Welp, micro pipework won't be back in stock until late august/sept.
It´s just a couple of fancy steel pipes. How is it possible that it takes so long to produce?
Wish me luck. Brewing 2.5 gallons tomorrow with no micro pipework.
You thrill seeker...![]()
It´s just a couple of fancy steel pipes. How is it possible that it takes so long to produce?
How are you guys cleaning yours? The last two times I got mine out to brew I guess I didn't dry the chiller off good enough and ended up with some moldy spots on it. After brewing, I just rinse out with water and clean out everything and run hot water through the chiller.
Also, mashing in my 2.5 gallon batch now (no micro pipework if you're just tuning in) All is well so far, but I am not using the top plate for the mash.
I don't use the chiller, so I re-purposed the chiller input to hot fill a keg directly to use the no-chill method. This worked very well, I just put an unconnected gas connector on to act as the air outlet and the pump filled the keg with no work!
What do you do about the air in the keg after pumping the wort from the Grainfather? If you leave it in there do you notice any oxidation? I've been fermenting in kegs for a while now and will not go back to glass. If I could eliminate another piece of equipment (the chiller) from my cleaning process that would be awesome!![]()
I pump, once full I seal it up, tip it to sanitize the top of the keg with hot wort (similar to no-chill cubes). Then I put it on CO2 and purge like a normal keg to get rid of the air.
I don't know if it affects the process after that. I think normal no-chill plastic cubes they squeeze out all the air. My general thought is that CO2 should protect it enough even when hot as I don't think it would easily be dissolved in the liquid until cold.
Kegs aren't exactly designed for negative pressure, so I like to keep it on CO2 until cool. But generally I've tried the other way and they do seem to keep a good seal with negative pressure from the cooling process, so overall it may not matter or may depend on the age of your seals and if you use keg lube or not.
So, I'm convinced the micro pipework is a waste of money. I followed the small grain bill calculations and didn't use the top plate, and ended up with 2.5 gallons exactly in my fermenter. Didn't see any grain particles in the fermenter either. Super happy with todays brew day. Will post the finished product in a few weeks.
I run thru the GF cleaning steps- PBW followed by a cold water rinse cycle. I do lift it up with hoses down to drain, it's a bit of a dance but appears to drain out reasonably well, however when I begin the sterilization process post boil I capture the first cup from the outlet which is clear (take off a bit of wort too) and toss. So water is certainly left behind in CFC. I've read here where some blow it out, I've thought about running my air compressor thru the lines but haven't yet. Mold? Where on CFC did you see that? Scary.How are you guys cleaning yours? The last two times I got mine out to brew I guess I didn't dry the chiller off good enough and ended up with some moldy spots on it. After brewing, I just rinse out with water and clean out everything and run hot water through the chiller.
Also, mashing in my 2.5 gallon batch now (no micro pipework if you're just tuning in) All is well so far, but I am not using the top plate for the mash.
Hey all, Just got the Grainfather for my birthday and was given several partial mash kits to go with it (oops, so close...). Question: can I do the partial mash at 1.5L/lb in the GF, drain, and then add more water, boil and add the liquid malt? I'm dying to try it out and it's all I have at the moment. Thanks for the feedback.
"Also, I though the GF app was going to be nice, but it's a bit of a flop IMO. Units are all over the place (0.5 oz of hops in recipe becomes 10oz somehow during a brew session), 4 lb of grain now shows up as 3 lb 15.85 oz, and I'm supposed to boil the kettle at 100*F! "
That's a shame. It must have gotten wonky on you. It held all my measurements fine so far on my 2 brews that I have done with it.
I noticed this also. Figure I would try the app, looked neat and well laid out. Once I finally inputted my recipe I clicked save and opened it back up again. All the measurements changed slightly. Not sure what the glitch is but I won't be using it again.
If they could get the units to hold to what i input I might try it again. Would really be interested if I could import a recipe from BeerSmith into it since that's where all my beers start.