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If you use BrewSmith to develop your recipes, it will assist in establishing the right strike water temperature by entering the grain temperature in the mash profile. I've found it does a rather good job providing you have changed some settings in BeerSmith to fit the Grainfather. Use the attached profiles and explanation to make the necessary changes. By the way, by making these changes, BrewSmith's inability to accurated calculate mash and sparge water quantities are also fixed


Numbers are almost right on. Beersmith is .10 gallons higher for mash water needed and .10 gallons less for sparge, so it works out in the end. Thanks for the info.
 
Need some help guys. I was changing celcius to farenheit using these instructions http://media.wix.com/ugd/e8b8c7_0c7caceab63b48ffa6317ba31ae2d1db.pdf and obviously did something wrong because I think I've bricked the controller. Now when I turn it on, it flashes a few times and then shows "OFF". I tried getting back into the administrative menu, but that just locks the whole controller up and shows a 0.

Is there anyway to reset this thing? I've emailed Grainfather but no response (weekend). One other guy on Facebook had the same problem, but he can't remember what he did. I've tried everything.

Failing this, does anyone know if you can just stick an STC 1000 in it and run it? I have an extra one in a temp controller I made.
 
From what I understand, an STC 1000 can be plugged into the Grainfather and will run it...even better than the STC 200 stock controller. The 1000 can be "hacked" using software and a gizmo interface called an arduino board so it then can be programmed to do step mashes and thus more fully automated. I am trying to buy a setup but haven't been able to at this stage. I may eventually bite the bullet and try to flash it myself.PS - you need an STC1000 with the correct chipset soldered...I think it's a A400P and if correctly flashed, turns the right STC1000 into a programmable STC1000P.
 
Hi all, been reading all 136 pages over the last few days and am very close to pulling the trigger on a GF. I had the opportunity to brew with someone a week or so ago with the TreacherousTexan and came away impressed. I intend to use the GF outside when I can, and inside when I have to.

My question is, does anyone have a sense for what the lower end of the ambient temperature is where you can still get the GF to a boil? I ready a post recently that somene brewing in the lower 60s and could not get to a boil... My basement hits lower 60s in the winter (hell, its 65 down there right now). I plan on doing the relfectix or more likely a graincoat, but still wonder about it.

Appreciate all the great conversation and tips on this forum... looking forward to joining in the fun.

Cheers!

Doug

BTW - been brewing since '92, all grain, off and on (extract when I want to save time), so I am very familiar with the whole process. I've always gone "cheap" on equipment, and as a result, the brew day is a bit of work... that is what I most look to get out of the GF... a simple, but still, all grain brew day.
 
My basement is mid-50's in the winter and I've had no problems with the boil, both with and without reflectix.
 
I see you are even a bit farther north than I am... so we are dealing with similar temperatures.

What kind of volumes are you typically working with? And, do you find that the reflectix provides any benefit, or no?
 
I use reflectix- double wrap with pipe insulation underneath to add an airspace (improves insulating properties) and it works very well. This Saturday I will be brewing with my brothers in the ones unheated garage, temps will be in the 40s. I can report back. If it fails to boil, and I'd be surprised, I will use lid and if still trouble move it indoors.
 
Second brew day done with the Grainfather. Oh and an ancient orenge mead also

image.jpg
 
I see you are even a bit farther north than I am... so we are dealing with similar temperatures.

What kind of volumes are you typically working with? And, do you find that the reflectix provides any benefit, or no?

5.5g in the fermenter, I don't do huge beers so no monster grain bills.
Mostly I think it helps speed up heating time, probably helps maintain mash temp better so heater is firing less, reducing scorching.
Keep in mind you're not gonna get a raging volcano boil like a gas burner, you get a rolling boil, which is all you need. Also means less boil-off, so less steam and humidity output when you are brewing inside.
A dedicated 20 amp circuit with no extension cord may be more important, based on what I've read on this thread. That's what I have. You need every watt you can get from the element when it's colder!
 
5.5g in the fermenter, I don't do huge beers so no monster grain bills.
Mostly I think it helps speed up heating time, probably helps maintain mash temp better so heater is firing less, reducing scorching.
Keep in mind you're not gonna get a raging volcano boil like a gas burner, you get a rolling boil, which is all you need. Also means less boil-off, so less steam and humidity output when you are brewing inside.
A dedicated 20 amp circuit with no extension cord may be more important, based on what I've read on this thread. That's what I have. You need every watt you can get from the element when it's colder!

I have been using, with absolutely no problems, a SHORT 2 ft 12awg chord just to give me a little reach, because my outlet is 5 ft off the ground, and the power chord on the GF is rediculously short. If you have to use an extension chord, it is important to make sure it is equal or greater gauge.
 
Can somebody please provide me with the dimensions of the grain basket?

I can't seem to find it anywhere online.

Thanks
 
I use reflectix- double wrap with pipe insulation underneath to add an airspace (improves insulating properties) and it works very well. This Saturday I will be brewing with my brothers in the ones unheated garage, temps will be in the 40s. I can report back. If it fails to boil, and I'd be surprised, I will use lid and if still trouble move it indoors.

Can you explain how you are using the pipe insulation? Or do you have picture? I had read on the Reflectix page that it works better with an airspace, so the concept makes sense to me... just not sure how you rigged it up.
 
has anyone done a kettle sour with the GF yet? any advice cleaning sanitary measures once done?
 
Can you explain how you are using the pipe insulation? Or do you have picture? I had read on the Reflectix page that it works better with an airspace, so the concept makes sense to me... just not sure how you rigged it up.

I can post pics tonight, but here's what I did:

I cut pipe insulation in half lengthwise, then cut it to length to have it wrap around the GF w/o an overlap. At the butt ends I taped it onto itself with electric tape (I did not tape it to the GF). I placed 3 of these wraps on the GF at the top, bottom and middle. They surprisingly held nicely in place, almost like Velcro! I then created a wrap of Reflectix with about 8" overlap, cut out to closely fit around the STC and slits for the attachments of the discharge pipe to the GF. I cut a small X for where the probe resides (just push probe thru) and a small U for the cord. I attached the Reflectix onto itself with command strips of Velcro. I then made another wrap, but this time I staggered by about 10-12" where the 2nd layer would end so that it wasn't in line with the first wrap. Again I held together with the command strips. It was rather simple, just have to measure well. I also used the larger roll (24") instead of the 16" roll as I wanted it go from the bottom by the black base to the very top- not sure it was needed but I like it and it works. What I also liked was the pipe insulation closes the space at the top and the bottom, not to mention the Reflectix is rated up to 180 F and I figured at full boil the single wall GF would be hotter than that. So there you go, a safety feature even! I keep thinking I like that I can take it off without issue, but haven't done that yet, so I may decide to tape the joints with the silver foil back tape used on flue pipes.
 
I can post pics tonight, but here's what I did:

I cut pipe insulation in half lengthwise, then cut it to length to have it wrap around the GF w/o an overlap. At the butt ends I taped it onto itself with electric tape (I did not tape it to the GF). I placed 3 of these wraps on the GF at the top, bottom and middle. They surprisingly held nicely in place, almost like Velcro! I then created a wrap of Reflectix with about 8" overlap, cut out to closely fit around the STC and slits for the attachments of the discharge pipe to the GF. I cut a small X for where the probe resides (just push probe thru) and a small U for the cord. I attached the Reflectix onto itself with command strips of Velcro. I then made another wrap, but this time I staggered by about 10-12" where the 2nd layer would end so that it wasn't in line with the first wrap. Again I held together with the command strips. It was rather simple, just have to measure well. I also used the larger roll (24") instead of the 16" roll as I wanted it go from the bottom by the black base to the very top- not sure it was needed but I like it and it works. What I also liked was the pipe insulation closes the space at the top and the bottom, not to mention the Reflectix is rated up to 180 F and I figured at full boil the single wall GF would be hotter than that. So there you go, a safety feature even! I keep thinking I like that I can take it off without issue, but haven't done that yet, so I may decide to tape the joints with the silver foil back tape used on flue pipes.

Thanks Kampenken... look forward to the pics to solidify things.
 
Do you guys know any tips (or list on a website somewhere) for increasing efficiency?
I had 65% the first time I used my GF,

As a reference, here is my process up to the boil:
2.75gal batch
  • Adjust the gap of my grain crusher as wide as a credit card
  • Use the Grainfather water calculator for small batches
  • Set the striking water temp at 160
  • Slowly poured the grain (5 minutes), making sure I was mixing it enough
  • Press the top filter so it compress the grains just a little
  • Set the mash temp at 153 (so it stays around 152)
  • Mash for 60min, recirculated well
  • Lift the basket, set the GF to boil, press on the top filter so it compress the grains just a little
  • Slowly sparge with 0,80gal of water at 165, took 10 min, with a Pyrex cup. The water pretty much goes right through for the first 0,60gal
  • Let drain for about 20 minutes
  • Boiled for 60min

I hit my 2,75 gal pretty close, was at about 2,70. So my OG should be higher... It was 0.007 under...

My ideas for next brew:
Do a 75min mash, 90min boil
Compress a little more on the top filter? (afraid of creating a stuck mash...)
Higher sparge temp and/or change method?

Thanks for your ideas!
 
Hello, I am brand new to this forum and homebrewing. I recently purchased the grainfather and noticed some big scratches inside. My main concern is that I do not want to contaminate any batches. From what I read this isn't an issue due to the boiling process. Should I be worried and return it? Or am I just stressing for no reason?

Thank you

View attachment 1459893237908.jpg
 
If it is not water tight compromised, I would be annoyed but not concerned. Anything that might get in the scratch will die when the wort is boiled.
 
Revamped HLT: already using an old 10 gal Polarware pot from my other brewery. Added a temp controller and wrapped it in reflectix. Fashioned a waterproof thermowell out of extra icemaker line for the probe. (Not really necessary, just having fun.) Doing a test right now.


I've been wanting that exact HLT setup. What controller is that? I don't recognize it.
 
Hello, I am brand new to this forum and homebrewing. I recently purchased the grainfather and noticed some big scratches inside. My main concern is that I do not want to contaminate any batches. From what I read this isn't an issue due to the boiling process. Should I be worried and return it? Or am I just stressing for no reason?

Thank you


That looks like more than a scratch. I would notify the seller and see what they say. If it were me, I'd return it.
 
I've been wanting that exact HLT setup. What controller is that? I don't recognize it.

$25 from Amazon!

Willhi Wh1436 Ac 110v - 240v Digital Temperature Controller Thermostat Control Switch Unit 1 Relay Output with Sensor

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00V4TJR00/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

I've got one for my lagering freezer too. Works great. I wasn't able to build my STC-1000 that cheaply. It's not a dual stage, however. Single stage with heating and cooling modes.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Hello, I am brand new to this forum and homebrewing. I recently purchased the grainfather and noticed some big scratches inside. My main concern is that I do not want to contaminate any batches. From what I read this isn't an issue due to the boiling process. Should I be worried and return it? Or am I just stressing for no reason?

Thank you


I had scratches on the grain basket part but nothing like that. Did you buy online or local? The sales rep has still not responded to my LHBS about my claim. They emailed them in December to see if they would replace it. Good luck.View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1459903152.259044.jpg
 
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