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I have been brewing on the GF since they came to the US. I believe that nothing else would have made me an all grain brewer. I switch back and forth on brewing all grain in the GF and using it as a kettle for Dry Extract batches. I also like that I can double batch low alcohol beers. Stout or a wheat is easy to double batch, I transfer 2.5 gallons into 2 ferments and to off with bottled spring water. Works great when brewing for a beerfest.
 
You can do up to a 20 lb grain bill, so you can calculate the gravity from that. I love my Grainfather.

In my experience, over 12 brews now, I have found that optimal results and target numbers are achieved with a maximum grain bill of around 15 lbs. sure, you can use more pounds in the mash, but had to deal with more issues - pump, filter, efficiency, sparge, etc.
 
You can only do this during the boil right? I'm assuming it won't fit with the basket in place. I do a lot of step mashes, so more power would really move things along.

I specifically chose the GF over other options because I wanted to do step mashes all the time and thought the GF would make step mashes really easy and simple and effortless. Unfortunately this has not been the case but still happy overall with great tasting brews... just have been disappointed with the step mashing process.
 
I specifically chose the GF over other options because I wanted to do step mashes all the time and thought the GF would make step mashes really easy and simple and effortless. Unfortunately this has not been the case but still happy overall with great tasting brews... just have been disappointed with the step mashing process.
Why is that? If you put the various rests into the recipe and send it to the controller, it does the steps automatically.
 
I specifically chose the GF over other options because I wanted to do step mashes all the time and thought the GF would make step mashes really easy and simple and effortless. Unfortunately this has not been the case but still happy overall with great tasting brews... just have been disappointed with the step mashing process.

What's not to lov? Takes too long?

I love sitting on my couch upstairs while the GF manages my steps in the basement. It's awesome!
 
I specifically chose the GF over other options because I wanted to do step mashes all the time and thought the GF would make step mashes really easy and simple and effortless. Unfortunately this has not been the case but still happy overall with great tasting brews... just have been disappointed with the step mashing process.

What exactly do you mean? The GF takes care of the steps.
 
GF is not good at holding temp ranges in step mashes, nor the actual mash itself. Go back around 50 pages when peeps suggested taking mash temperature with tools other than the GF temp probe. You will see that typically the actual mash is higher than what probe at bottom reads. This greatly reduces your ability to dial in the style you want to brew (dry vs. sweet) (144F - 156F)
 
GF is not good at holding temp ranges in step mashes, nor the actual mash itself. Go back around 50 pages when peeps suggested taking mash temperature with tools other than the GF temp probe. You will see that typically the actual mash is higher than what probe at bottom reads. This greatly reduces your ability to dial in the style you want to brew (dry vs. sweet) (144F - 156F)

I actually just watched a video last night where David Heath recently compared controller temps between the latest robobrew and the GF. He posted his various mash temps trials and compared the onboard temp against a calibrated thermometer. They both seemed fairly accurate, the GF was within 0.5 degrees on avg. See here:
 
GF is not good at holding temp ranges in step mashes, nor the actual mash itself. Go back around 50 pages when peeps suggested taking mash temperature with tools other than the GF temp probe. You will see that typically the actual mash is higher than what probe at bottom reads. This greatly reduces your ability to dial in the style you want to brew (dry vs. sweet) (144F - 156F)
I dont do it regularly, but I once checked the temp of the wort returning through recirculation pipe and as far into the grain as my thermapen could reach and it matched the GF temp read out.

Holding the mash at a particular temp is practically the whole purpose of the GF. If your temps are off, perhaps theres a problem with your probe.
 
Congrats on your new purchase ! I was off on my efficiency on both of my 16 lb brew. Was spot on on the last one 10lbs. I've been told on big grain bills to stir the mash a couple times. As of the recirc arm and cfc quick connects I dont know but I'm curious now .


Just to circle back on the efficiencies. I brewed two beers since this post. The first was a 10# Berliner and I beat my numbers by a lot. Need to go back and see how many points, but think it was over 5. Kettle souring came out awesome by the way!

On Sunday I brewed a big stout with 18.5# and missed my target by 1 point, came in at 1.098. And I know where it probably was, the water totals were hard to eyeball, 5.9 and 2.6. Had my efficiency set to 74% and I ended up stirring 4 times during the mash. I’m pretty happy with that!

Quick connects were so much easier too! They got a little toasty handling during boil, but was way easier, less frustrating and way less messy.
 
Nice man that's good numbers right there. A thought just occured to me . I wonder if the water calculation in the GF book comes out to a different number on the GF app. Reason being when I used the book I was off on my numbers . When I used the app I was pretty spot on . Glad the quick connects are working out for you .
 
Nice man that's good numbers right there. A thought just occured to me . I wonder if the water calculation in the GF book comes out to a different number on the GF app. Reason being when I used the book I was off on my numbers . When I used the app I was pretty spot on . Glad the quick connects are working out for you .

Never used a book? Are you referring the formula they provide in the manual? I've only ever used the online calc's and the online recipe crafter.
 
Hey guys, I have been following the thread for the last six months. My wife got me a Grainfather for Valentines Day, but I already went another way for my home brewery.

I am willing to cut someone a deal here for the package. I have a brand new Grainfather Connect, Grainfather Sparage Tank and the Graincoat. Looking to get $950 for all plus shipping. All brand new, unopened. If not, I’ll pay the return shipping back.
 
Hey guys, I have been following the thread for the last six months. My wife got me a Grainfather for Valentines Day, but I already went another way for my home brewery.

I am willing to cut someone a deal here for the package. I have a brand new Grainfather Connect, Grainfather Sparage Tank and the Graincoat. Looking to get $950 for all plus shipping. All brand new, unopened. If not, I’ll pay the return shipping back.

Dang that was nice of her . I would post this on the for sale section. At this price it should go quick .
 
Nice man that's good numbers right there. A thought just occured to me . I wonder if the water calculation in the GF book comes out to a different number on the GF app. Reason being when I used the book I was off on my numbers . When I used the app I was pretty spot on . Glad the quick connects are working out for you .
It looks like there is some discrepancy between the manual and the online calculator.
For example: a recipe with 5 kg of malt

Manual:
Mash water 17 L
Sparge water 15 L
"boil times are usually between 60-90 minutes"

Online calculator
Mash water 17L
Sparge water 14 L for a 60 minutes boil and 15 L for a 90 minutes boil.
That makes sense, the longer time we boil, the more water evaporates.



Another factor is the voltage. The online calculator takes it into account and the manual doesn't.
A 220 Volts unit has more power than the 110 Volts one ,so the boiling time being equal, the 220 V units will evaporate more water.

To resume :) the results match if we select 110 Volts and 90 minutes boiling time.

Jacques
 
It looks like there is some discrepancy between the manual and the online calculator.
For example: a recipe with 5 kg of malt

Manual:
Mash water 17 L
Sparge water 15 L
"boil times are usually between 60-90 minutes"

Online calculator
Mash water 17L
Sparge water 14 L for a 60 minutes boil and 15 L for a 90 minutes boil.
That makes sense, the longer time we boil, the more water evaporates.



Another factor is the voltage. The online calculator takes it into account and the manual doesn't.
A 220 Volts unit has more power than the 110 Volts one ,so the boiling time being equal, the 220 V units will evaporate more water.

To resume :) the results match if we select 110 Volts and 90 minutes boiling time.

Jacques

Yep, most of us have altered our calculations to fit our brew day to our environment after a few brews. I have repeatedly asked GF to fix these calculations but they aren’t interested in doing that.
 
I dont do it regularly, but I once checked the temp of the wort returning through recirculation pipe and as far into the grain as my thermapen could reach and it matched the GF temp read out.

Holding the mash at a particular temp is practically the whole purpose of the GF. If your temps are off, perhaps theres a problem with your probe.


I would have more faith in the temperature probe if it didn’t fall out of the port every time my cat breathed on it :yes: It should be securely held in place, not loosey goosey
 
Hey guys, I have been following the thread for the last six months. My wife got me a Grainfather for Valentines Day, but I already went another way for my home brewery.

I am willing to cut someone a deal here for the package. I have a brand new Grainfather Connect, Grainfather Sparage Tank and the Graincoat. Looking to get $950 for all plus shipping. All brand new, unopened. If not, I’ll pay the return shipping back.
PM if you still have it
 
The bigger the grain bill the more stirring has an impact on efficiency. I’ve started taking refractometer readings throughout the mash on bigger beers and it’s amazing how much longer it can take. The tall and narrow mash bed is definitely not your friend.

I like taking refractometer readings during the mash too. But I never know what I should be aiming for because some of the sugar is still stuck to the grain and I still have to sparge. I've been mashing for 2 hours just to be sure and getting crazy high efficiencies. But I'd love to know what I should be seeing during the mash.

I love my refractometer. I could not go back to a hydrometer.
 
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The bigger the grain bill the more stirring has an impact on efficiency. I’ve started taking refractometer readings throughout the mash on bigger beers and it’s amazing how much longer it can take. The tall and narrow mash bed is definitely not your friend.

So how does stirring during the mash work (I only have 3 brews at this point on my GF)? Do you leave the top screen off throughout the mash process, or are you taking and out and putting it back in? If you left it off, then you put it in before sparging?
 
So how does stirring during the mash work (I only have 3 brews at this point on my GF)? Do you leave the top screen off throughout the mash process, or are you taking and out and putting it back in? If you left it off, then you put it in before sparging?

You may want to start with getting on youtube and watching all of the David Heath "How To Videos". Super informative and covers both the basics and more advanced methods.
 
To me it looks like stirring the mash goes against the basic idea of the grainfather ? : start the pump and forget about it
 
Speaking of Grainfather videos, I'm looking for an older one, probably from 2015/2016. The brewing occurs in a larger room with a longer counter top. It isn't in a kitchen. And I think the brewer does 2 batches, back to back or has 2 Grainfathers running.

I'd like to see this video again. Does anyone have a link ?
 
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