Galaxy/Citra NE style IIPA

[Little_Lebowski]

whatever you want, but I can't think of any good reason to go over 10% or so.

there are 2 pro recipes from no-da and weldwerks published in beer and brewing mag dec-jan issue. weldwerks specifies flaked oats, no-da doesn't specify, just says 'oats'.

I would suspect that since flaked oats are by far the most common ones seen in recipes and brewshops, that flaked oats are what most people assume unless otherwise specified.

I just used the water profile recommended by weldworks in that article with the elevated calcium chorlide and it really contributed to appearance and a nice soft mouthfeel. I think this water profile and a butt load of dry hops throughout different periods of primary fermentation contribute heavily to the style.

I didn't catch the carapils study. What were the findings?

 

[motosapiens]

I just used the water profile recommended by weldworks in that article with the elevated calcium chorlide and it really contributed to appearance and a nice soft mouthfeel. I think this water profile and a butt load of dry hops throughout different periods of primary fermentation contribute heavily to the style.

I didn't catch the carapils study. What were the findings?

IIRC, he said no one could tell much difference between added carapils and none, and also that the beer with carapils had *less* head retention. I still use it when a recipe calls for it. I wonder if there are significant differences between different brands of dextrine malts.

I have 2 batches of neipa in bottles now, one with the mineral levels in the weldworks recipe (60/170 sulfate/chloride), and one with those levels reversed (180 sulfate, 50 chloride). Later today I'm going to see if I can get my wife to help with a triangle test. I'll be surprised if I can't tell a flavor difference.... not so sure about the mouthfeel/appearance, based on trying the beers separately over the last few days. I think they both taste pretty good.

 

[Little_Lebowski]

Here's a go to DIPA malt bill I revisit often

10# UK pale malt
1.5# Vienna
1# malted oats
1# white wheat
.75# carapils
.75# flaked oats

.5# sugar in the raw in the kettle


Looks a little darker in the pic than in reality. It's more of a bright orange. I may bump the MO to 12# to try and raise the OG and hopefully the FG as well. The last one attenuated a lot better than I wanted/expected and the body wasn't as substantial. The esters imparted by the Conan yeast were vital though as it gave a nice peachy character that blended perfectly with the fruity hops. I think it was day 2 in primary it free rose to about 69F, accidentally to be honest, before I lowered it back down to 64 but I think it was all for the best

 

[sam524]

Here's a go to DIPA malt bill I revisit often

10# UK pale malt
1.5# Vienna
1# malted oats
1# white wheat
.75# carapils
.75# flaked oats

.5# sugar in the raw in the kettle


Looks a little darker in the pic than in reality. It's more of a bright orange. I may bump the MO to 12# to try and raise the OG and hopefully the FG as well. The last one attenuated a lot better than I wanted/expected and the body wasn't as substantial. The esters imparted by the Conan yeast were vital though as it gave a nice peachy character that blended perfectly with the fruity hops. I think it was day 2 in primary it free rose to about 69F, accidentally to be honest, before I lowered it back down to 64 but I think it was all for the best

Looks awesome. Thanks for mentioning the malted vs flaked oats difference btw. It's something I've wondered about but didn't bring up in this thread.

What dry hop schedule do you go with? I've read so many varying responses... Don't dry hop for more than a few days, dry hop in the keg, dry hop during fermentation, etc.

 

[Little_Lebowski]

Personally I like to add in my dry hops in thirds. Typically a 6 oz regimen. Day 3-4 I'll add two oz, two days later 2 more oz, two days later the final two. I'll keg after the last batch has sit for 2 days. I'll typically add my lowest alpha acid hops earliest because, against popular belief, I've noticed increased bittnerness after dry hop. I also use pellets for best dispersal throughout the fermenter and I will swirl lightly every other day to get the clump on top to sink and resurface. I always make sure there's some bubbling going on in the blow off too before I swirl to make sure I'm not swirling any oxygen into the beer from when I opened the bung. I'll swirl one last time and then crash down to ~ 59/60F and the hops usually won't resurface with the drop in temp. I then keg using a co2 closed transfer from primary to keg. I've skipped secondary all togoetger at this point

FWIW: some of these statements might seem a little crazy and not backed up by any science or research but they've come to work for me

 

[sam524]

Personally I like to add in my dry hops in thirds. Typically a 6 oz regimen. Day 3-4 I'll add two oz, two days later 2 more oz, two days later the final two. I'll keg after the last batch has sit for 2 days. I'll typically add my lowest alpha acid hops earliest because, against popular belief, I've noticed increased bittnerness after dry hop. I also use pellets for best dispersal throughout the fermenter and I will swirl lightly every other day to get the clump on top to sink and resurface. I always make sure there's some bubbling going on in the blow off too before I swirl to make sure I'm not swirling any oxygen into the beer from when I opened the bung. I'll swirl one last time and then crash down to ~ 59/60F and the hops usually won't resurface with the drop in temp. I then keg using a co2 closed transfer from primary to keg. I've skipped secondary all togoetger at this point

FWIW: some of these statements might seem a little crazy and not backed up by any science or research but they've come to work for me

You don't get any grassy flavors from letting your first addition dry hops sit for 9 days?

 

[Little_Lebowski]

No. Not at all. It's actually only a week not 9 days and it's only first two oz that sit for the entire 7 days.

 

[sam524]

I'll post my final revision next week when I brew.

I was looking for the water profile in south Baltimore and found this posted on an old BA thread:

pH: 7.7
Total Dissolved Solids (TDS) Est, ppm: 190
Electrical Conductivity, mmho/cm: 0.32
Cations / Anions, me/L: 2.6

Ca: 23ppm
Mg: 8ppm
Na: 18ppm
Cl: 45ppm
SO4: 6ppm
HCO3: 53ppm
Total Hardness, CaCO3: 91ppm
Total Alkalinity, CaCO3: "<" - Not Detected / Below Detection Limit

It was posted 3-4 years ago and the address on the report is only a couple miles from my house, but I can't imagine it's changed much. Any suggestions for what to add for this style?

 

[Little_Lebowski]

I'll post my final revision next week when I brew.

I was looking for the water profile in south Baltimore and found this posted on an old BA thread:

pH: 7.7
Total Dissolved Solids (TDS) Est, ppm: 190
Electrical Conductivity, mmho/cm: 0.32
Cations / Anions, me/L: 2.6

Ca: 23ppm
Mg: 8ppm
Na: 18ppm
Cl: 45ppm
SO4: 6ppm
HCO3: 53ppm
Total Hardness, CaCO3: 91ppm
Total Alkalinity, CaCO3: "<" - Not Detected / Below Detection Limit

It was posted 3-4 years ago and the address on the report is only a couple miles from my house, but I can't imagine it's changed much. Any suggestions for what to add for this style?

Well first are You using any water software?

 

[Little_Lebowski]

This was my last profile starting from 100% RO water. My tap water is super calcified from limestone.

Ca 100
Mg 14
Na 0
Cl 164
SO4 80
Cl:SO4 ~ 2:1


Just about 1/3 ml of lactic to get my mash pH down to 5.3

Very preliminarily threw your starting water into the software and, if i were using you're water for my last IPA, is throw in 2 tsp gypsum, 2 tsp epsom salt, and 6 tsp calcium chloride to 5 gallons of mash water to get me pretty close to my water profile above. For a NE style your water is definitely on the right track. It's low in sulfates and has elevated chlorides to start. Either way if you used 100% RO or 100% your water you'd need to likely add a tsp or two of both gypsum and epsom to raise your sulfates and get some mg into your beer. But ultimately you'll be saving yourself 3-4 tsp of calcium chloride with your source water. Always wanna make sure use some Campden tablets if you're using your water to remove chlorine pretty sure one tablet will treat 20 gallons

 

[sam524]

Haven't used any water software. What program do you use? Also are those numbers for a 5 gallon batch or 3.5?

 

[Little_Lebowski]

Five gallon batch with only additions going into the mash. Do you have a way to monitor your mash pH? I use ez water calculator. Just found it was the easiest and quickest for me.

 

[sam524]

Five gallon batch with only additions going into the mash. Do you have a way to monitor your mash pH? I use ez water calculator. Just found it was the easiest and quickest for me.

Unfortunately, I don't. I plan on buying a a pH meter before my next batch.

Finally got around to brewing this on Saturday. After using ez water calculator and the report I posted, I added:

Strike water:
Gypsum: 2g
CaCl: 5g
Epsom salt: 1g

Sparge:
Gypsum: 1.7g
CaCl: 4.4g
Epsom salt: 1g

I also threw in 5oz of acid malt which brought my mash pH (according to ez water calculator) to 5.4. I didn't want to add more acid since 5oz is already 3% of the grist, and I read that more than that can give it funk.

Final water profile was:
Ca 136
Mg 14
Na 18
Cl 195
SO4 100
Cl:SO4 1.96


Sadly it didn't go as well as I'd hoped. I mashed at 152 for an hour while heating up my sparge water. For some reason I didn't think I had enough sparge water (even though I measured it) and it was too hot, so I ended up dumping some ice in it to bring it to my target temp. Preboil was a little under 6 gallons, post boil was around 5. Added flameout hops and whirpooled for a little over 20 minutes until the wort hit 175. Left the whirlpool hops during the chill (not sure if this is recommended either).

Took the gravity before pitching the yeast... 1.060
No idea how I was over 20 points under my target OG, but I'm pretty bummed about it. Maybe next time I'll boil for 90 instead of 60 min.

For the dry hops, I added the 1oz of citra a couple days ago (3 days after brew day) and plan on adding the galaxy/mosaic when I get home later. I've heard of people dry hopping during fermentation, but the krausen is very thick with this yeast, and the pellets just stuck to the top. If this happens again later, should I give it a stir so they get mixed in with the beer or leave the krausen alone?

 

[elburrogrande]

My guess is that you overestimated your efficiency. Looking at your recipe it would have put you at about 13lbs for a 5 gallon batch. 1.060 puts you somewhere between 60-70% which is still normal for homebrew. Add more grains! also add hops in a hop bag with marbles to weigh it down.