rkhanso
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- Jan 24, 2017
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I just need to get a 12v DC jack and plug mounted in the 6"x6"x4" controller box to power the Raspberry Pi - but I'm doing a PID Tune right now.
I went pretty simple. Using my phone or a PC to control via the http interface.
I power the 240v and 12v separately. Have a 12v brown solar pump on the kettle for recirculation. I have a DIY Jaded Cyclone CFC which I haven't tested the efficiency yet, but our winter tap water temps in MN will sure help out chilling. I have a temp sensor on the CFC output to monitor exiting wort temps - and look forward to testing that soon.
I'm using a Terragady 4.2 board on the Raspberry Pi 3.
There are 3 Locking Stereo RCA jacks on the bottom of the controller box that the 1-Wire temp sensors plug into.
There is a RJ45 Jack that the pump plugs into at the bottom of the controller box.
The controller box plugs into 240v AC, powering just that part of the box and the heat element plugs into the bottom of the controller box with a locking plug.
I used an old computer CPU heatsink for the SSR.
The red light on the front lights when the heater is powered. The blue light is on when the pump has 12v DC to it.
There is a small hole between the lights where I mounted a buzzer inside the cover for an alarm.
I'm using Craftbeerpi v 3.0.
Pictures and initial temp ramp up from 70F to 152F during the PID auto-tune.
I went pretty simple. Using my phone or a PC to control via the http interface.
I power the 240v and 12v separately. Have a 12v brown solar pump on the kettle for recirculation. I have a DIY Jaded Cyclone CFC which I haven't tested the efficiency yet, but our winter tap water temps in MN will sure help out chilling. I have a temp sensor on the CFC output to monitor exiting wort temps - and look forward to testing that soon.
I'm using a Terragady 4.2 board on the Raspberry Pi 3.
There are 3 Locking Stereo RCA jacks on the bottom of the controller box that the 1-Wire temp sensors plug into.
There is a RJ45 Jack that the pump plugs into at the bottom of the controller box.
The controller box plugs into 240v AC, powering just that part of the box and the heat element plugs into the bottom of the controller box with a locking plug.
I used an old computer CPU heatsink for the SSR.
The red light on the front lights when the heater is powered. The blue light is on when the pump has 12v DC to it.
There is a small hole between the lights where I mounted a buzzer inside the cover for an alarm.
I'm using Craftbeerpi v 3.0.
Pictures and initial temp ramp up from 70F to 152F during the PID auto-tune.
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