What yeast? What OG?Had a brown ale with 20 oz of salted caramel baking mix, pretty much pure sugar...after 2 weeks at 68’ it’s stuck at 1.022? Way higher than I was thinking. Any chance there is a lot of unfermentables?
Or non-fermentable sugar. How would you know?20 oz of salted caramel baking mix, pretty much pure sugar
I agree with this. I have used lager yeast like this a couple of times. 60f or so will be fine because there isn't that much sugar left (relatively). It won't taste like sulphur or produce esters just finishing this last bit of sugar. On an experimental beer, I used a lavlin 71b -1112 in a California common with 15% Crystal malt down to 1.020. That is about all 71b can do to beer. I then the carbonated the batch in the bottle with Saflager W34/70. It brought the gravity down to 1.014 ...13 about- letting one degass overnight. Another time I just fixed a batch that got too cold by racking into a secondary on top of San Francisco Lager yeast. Original yeast was Muntons Gold to 1.028 or so. About Muntons- it is very flocculant, I have never suspected it to be Windsor. It will under attenuate if it drops too early.Try pitching two packs of a hight attenuation yeast like us05, I bet it would drop a few points after another week
Original yeast was Muntons Gold to 1.028 or so. About Muntons- it is very flocculant, I have never suspected it to be Windsor.
Sounds like you are close. Let it ride another week or two. I did a Black maple IPA the used 7 gallons of fresh maple sap. Took 6 months to hit 1.010 Fg.
It turned out ok as an IPA. Problem we had was carbonation. It was all low then after we had a freeze the beer was suddenly carbonated. In my new recipe I will be adjusting it to cold store/crash as if was a lager. Wonder if that would change it to a lager ipa. I suspect commercially it could only be produced as small batch due to the chemical make up of the sap. That changes from tree to tree and from plot to plot and even season to season so you would either need millions of gallons of sap or stick with smaller batches.Sorry to thread hijack but curious how this turned out? I had a beer made with all maple tree sap at Liquid Riot in Portland,ME years back and it was fantastic. I’ve never seen anyone else do this at pro/homebrew level.
Muntons Gold and Muntons "ordinary" are different yeasts. The ordinary one, which appears to be derived from the old EDME homebrew yeast like Windsor and S-33, is a low attenuator like Windsor.
I've not used the Gold and I don't think it's been sequenced, but my working assumption would be that it's another derivative of Nottingham, as Muntons appear to make a Nottingham derivative for their white-label clients. Might be S-04 or something though.
So yep, >20% crystal/cara won't help your attenuation, and frankly just the thought of that much crystal rather puts me off the beer. But the first thing to do is to taste it - taste is more important than numbers, and it's hard to predict what will suit some people's tastes. If it tastes good then don't worry about it.
I got a gallon of maple syrup that is planned for a stout...not sure how I'll work it yet...Sounds like you are close. Let it ride another week or two. I did a Black maple IPA the used 7 gallons of fresh maple sap. Took 6 months to hit 1.010 Fg.
I do a maple porter. If you want the maple hint add it to the secondary. I found when added to primary it really only increased the final ABV and only faintly had maple taste.I got a gallon of maple syrup that is planned for a stout...not sure how I'll work it yet...
yeah, that's what I've read on other posts as well...thus is my likely course of action...I do a maple porter. If you want the maple hint add it to the secondary. I found when added to primary it really only increased the final ABV and only faintly had maple taste.
yeah, that's what I've read on other posts as well...thus is my likely course of action...
at what point in the secondary? at transfer or some point before bottle/keg? Not sure if I should liquefy the syrup in some of the beer from the pri on a stove top and then blend into the secondary at transfer...or just pour the syrupy goo into the secondary and let the yeast find it?
and I have pure maple syrup from the grocery, not raw sap...
so how much syrup do you think?
What did you mash at, temp wise? and there's always the overkill route, and adding gluco...
how many pounds of that sugar did you add? could just have gotten enough alcohol to crap out the yeast...
edit: but probably not, you'd have to add something like 5 lbs....
When I use maple syrup and jump to the secondary when the gravity is at about halfway, for me that has been about two weeks with the porter. Now for me I have a conical so primary and secondary are in the same unit and the only way to really define it is when I remove the collection ball it is to clean out all the trub and start the yeast collection. That is when I add the maple syrup.
With the syrup I would recommend placing the container it is in, in hot tap water to thin, same as what I do for mead. Don't bother to heat the syrup remember it is only a few degrees from becoming candy. The hot water for about 30 minutes and add it to the wort. Usually around 80 degrees, nothing hotter.
You will benefit from a good stir with the syrup, otherwise it will cool fast and sink to the bottom. Make sure everything is clean and sanitized because with stouts and porters lacto infection can happen, but for me I see that is as a good thing (that is another story). How much to add is up to you. I use 8 cups of grade AA syrup (half gallon) for five gallons of wort. You are not going to gain much in fermentable sugars from syrup as you would with sap but aging it for a few months, cold crash to settle out the yeast for a day or two, should yield a pretty good batch.
It’s definitely not high in alcohol. 15 oz sugar if I’m reading the nutritional label right. Mash was low 150s? Strike was 168 but didn’t measure the mash...I know [emoji53]
Really? I figured maple syrup would be loaded? I thought that’s why it goes in the secondary cause the yeast levels are down. I’ve heard in the primary the syrup pretty much is totally consumed, leaving little if any maple.
yeah that is a lot of crystal...but it's what the recipe said...So I am a bit "off recipe"...and I used the regular Muntons
Could be potassium chloride. It's a salt also and is what is used in salt for people who have to limit sodium intake.View attachment 609615View attachment 609616 apparently sodium free salt? Salt is on the ingredients but lacking on the analysis?
This recipe is a good example of US brewers' bizarre fascination with crystal - they seem to use far more of it than British brewers ever do, and they seldom seem to balance it with sugar as happens in Britain. But even by US standards, this recipe you've found is pretty extreme - in Ray Daniels' book he puts the average American Brown in second-round NHC at 10% crystal, 2% chocolate, 1% black.
So you've an extreme amount of crystal. And then you've use a yeast with less attenuation than the 75% assumed by the author. Admittedly, that's on the high side for WLP002 but even so, the recipe author was assuming more attenuation than you got.
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