New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

[mrcastellino]

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[aaronm13]

I found the descriptor of ‘carmelized bananas’ to be pretty accurate when I have had both commercial and homebrew examples with it. I cant offer recommended percentages based on my own experience but my general rule of thumb with all neomexicanus hops is to use a light hand. Personally, I dont care for them but I will say that Dolcita compared to Talus and especially Sabro is the least offensive.

I'm thinking of just going with about 25% of the dry hop with 1019 because of how potent this hops can be. Thinking of 40% Nelson, 35% Citra and 25% 1019. Probably a safe rate to start with.

 

[LumberZach]

I just got a pound of 2025 Galaxy from YVH. I had to open them and smell them. Not going to lie, they smelled the part, or atleast quite a bit better than past crop years. I can't remember what they smelled like in 2016. I'll be using them in conjunction with some Citra from Hop Heaven. This we be a Brujos style DIPA, so 2# per bbl in the WP and 5-6# per bbl in the dry hop. I brew small batches so I won't be too disappointed if I have to dump it. I want to go heavier on the Galaxy just to see if it's all the way back. Who can suggest a good ratio for the WP and DH?

 

[Dgallo]

I just got a pound of 2025 Galaxy from YVH. I had to open them and smell them. Not going to lie, they smelled the part, or atleast quite a bit better than past crop years. I can't remember what they smelled like in 2016. I'll be using them in conjunction with some Citra from Hop Heaven. This we be a Brujos style DIPA, so 2# per bbl in the WP and 5-6# per bbl in the dry hop. I brew small batches so I won't be too disappointed if I have to dump it. I want to go heavier on the Galaxy just to see if it's all the way back. Who can suggest a good ratio for the WP and DH?

2:1 is probably fine but I would definitely dryhop in the low 50s if you have the capabilities

 

[Dgallo]

I'm thinking of just going with about 25% of the dry hop with 1019 because of how potent this hops can be. Thinking of 40% Nelson, 35% Citra and 25% 1019. Probably a safe rate to start with.

If you haven’t used 1019 yet, I feel going up to 40% of the dryhop will give you a better indication of what it brings to the table

 

[LumberZach]

2:1 is probably fine but I would definitely dryhop in the low 50s if you have the capabilities

I always dry hop at 55F. Maybe I'll lower it to 52F. I have a modified Fermonster and modified megamouth torpedo keg. So I'm able to rack the beer off the yeast into the keg, then I'm able to use a dry hopper and rouse the hops.

 

[Dgallo]

I always dry hop at 55F. Maybe I'll lower it to 52F. I have a modified Fermonster and modified megamouth torpedo keg. So I'm able to rack the beer off the yeast into the keg, then I'm able to use a dry hopper and rouse the hops.

You’re good to go though. I’d also suggest soft crash for 3 days or so before your dryhop to get as much of the yeast out prior so you minimize the hopburn risk. Maybe this harvest is better but besides the peanut character, hop burn has been the worst with galaxy

 

[fluketamer]

this will be my attempt at a NE style IPA tomorrow :

its my first one adding oats for body / haze

10 lbs of 2 row.
1 lb of oats
.25 carapils.

i am going to mash at 154.

.5 oz magnum bittering charge at 60 mins

1 oz of citra and 1 oz of el dorado and 1 oz of moteuka in the whirlpool

2 ounces citra 1 ounce el dorado and 1 ounce moteuka on day 3.

then the same 3 days before kegging.

i just have to figure out my salt additions.

 

[bailey mountain brewer]

this will be my attempt at a NE style IPA tomorrow :

its my first one adding oats for body / haze

10 lbs of 2 row.
1 lb of oats
.25 carapils.

i am going to mash at 154.

.5 oz magnum bittering charge at 60 mins

1 oz of citra and 1 oz of el dorado and 1 oz of moteuka in the whirlpool

2 ounces citra 1 ounce el dorado and 1 ounce moteuka on day 3.

then the same 3 days before kegging.

i just have to figure out my salt additions.

Sounds like a good starting point, I'd double the whirlpool hops and add another ounce of moteuka to each dry hop addition.

For water for my neipa I target
100ppm CA
180 - 200 ppm Cl
70ppm NA
100 -120ppm SO4

 

[Dgallo]

Sounds like a good starting point, I'd double the whirlpool hops and add another ounce of moteuka to each dry hop addition.

For water for my neipa I target
100ppm CA
180 - 200 ppm Cl
70ppm NA
100 -120ppm SO4

I’m nearly identical to that water wise.

 

[Dgallo]

this will be my attempt at a NE style IPA tomorrow :

its my first one adding oats for body / haze

10 lbs of 2 row.
1 lb of oats
.25 carapils.

i am going to mash at 154.

.5 oz magnum bittering charge at 60 mins

1 oz of citra and 1 oz of el dorado and 1 oz of moteuka in the whirlpool

2 ounces citra 1 ounce el dorado and 1 ounce moteuka on day 3.

then the same 3 days before kegging.

i just have to figure out my salt additions.

Do you have o2 management capabilities for dryhoping?

 

[aaronm13]

If you haven’t used 1019 yet, I feel going up to 40% of the dryhop will give you a better indication of what it brings to the table

I usually go a bit higher on a hop I haven't used before but a bit reluctant with the neomexicanus hops as they pack a punch. I might push it to 30% then go 30% citra and 40% Nelson. Got some 2025 crop Nelson so excited to see how it is.

 

[Dgallo]

I usually go a bit higher on a hop I haven't used before but a bit reluctant with the neomexicanus hops as they pack a punch. I might push it to 30% then go 30% citra and 40% Nelson. Got some 2025 crop Nelson so excited to see how it is.

I don’t believe it has neomex. Linage, though one would think so with the coconut characteristic that’s listed. I could be wrong but I can’t find anything that claims it is genetically linked to neomex on the internet

 

[aaronm13]

I don’t believe it has neomex. Linage, though one would think so with the coconut characteristic that’s listed. I could be wrong but I can’t find anything that claims it is genetically linked to neomex on the internet

Ah ok, I just assumed it was because of its comparisons with Sabro. Good to know. I might be able to push it a bit more so.

 

[fluketamer]

should the wort be clear going into the fermenter. i used apound of oats in a 5.5 gallon recipe and the wort looks just as clear as my lagers. i used whirlfloc and it cleared the wort up. will the hop oils bring out the haze from the oats or are the oat proteins all left in the bottom of the kettle?

 

[Dgallo]

should the wort be clear going into the fermenter. i used apound of oats in a 5.5 gallon recipe and the wort looks just as clear as my lagers. i used whirlfloc and it cleared the wort up. will the hop oils bring out the haze from the oats or are the oat proteins all left in the bottom of the kettle?

That’s ideal. The proteins that drop out in the kettle would drop out during fermentation. Always target the clearest beer you can brew on your system going into the fermenter. This will help haze stability, lessen the hopburn risk, and cause less striping of hop compounds as those proteins will drop out whether it be kettle fermenter or in the keg. Best place for them is in the kettle

 

[Ki-ri-n]

I don’t believe it has neomex. Linage, though one would think so with the coconut characteristic that’s listed. I could be wrong but I can’t find anything that claims it is genetically linked to neomex on the internet

 

[tracer bullet]

Always target the clearest beer you can brew on your system going into the fermenter.

Is this particular to hazies and dry hopping? Seems the last few years people have moved towards thinking it doesn't really matter, or conversely it actually ends up producing clearer beer.

Please note I'm not saying you're wrong nor arguing, just curious. I typically let my wort settle an hour or so before transferring, I'm cleaning things up and probably getting something to eat, etc. It's clear-ish but not perfect at all. Hasn't seemed to matter, but wondering if when I make my next hazy, I should give it some extra time if it'll make a difference.

 

[Dgallo]

View attachment 884453

Dolcita is not Sabro. Sabro is Neomex, Dolcita is not.

 

[Dgallo]

Is this particular to hazies and dry hopping? Seems the last few years people have moved towards thinking it doesn't really matter, or conversely it actually ends up producing clearer beer.

Please note I'm not saying you're wrong nor arguing, just curious. I typically let my wort settle an hour or so before transferring, I'm cleaning things up and probably getting something to eat, etc. It's clear-ish but not perfect at all. Hasn't seemed to matter, but wondering if when I make my next hazy, I should give it some extra time if it'll make a difference.

so just like everything in brewing, people will go back and forth between if methods are worth it or not. When it comes to protien, not all protiens are the same and clearing is about molecular weight, things with heavy molecular weight will drop out while compounds with low molecular weight will not.

The hot break proteins are heavy as they have longer chain. If they make it into fermentation, they will then be bonded with polyphenols by the yeast, becoming longer chained compounds and heavier. This will cause them to drop out at some point and produce a less stable haze. The more of these proteins that make it into the fermenter, the more clearing will occur in the keg. It’s why people have a very hazy beer for a week or two in the keg, and then it starts to clear (not crystal clear but a significant difference).

If you don’t have the ability to perform cone dumps a few times during fermentation, your best option is to transfer the clearest wort your system allows for into the kettle