False bottom recommendations

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Ramjet

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I am going to do my first biab soon and was wondering what to use for a False bottom if I need to raise mash temp so the bag doesn't burn. I have a 15 gallon kettle with a 15 1/2 inch inside diameter. Does the False bottom have to be 15 1/2 inches or can you get by with a smaller diameter.
Thanks in advance
 
I have a 15 gallon megapot on a propane burner. I was hoping for a less expensive option, like maybe a cookie cooling rack or something similar. Thanks for your response
 
I have a 15 gallon megapot on a propane burner. I was hoping for a less expensive option, like maybe a cookie cooling rack or something similar. Thanks for your response

If you can find an actual stainless grate of the correct size, it could work. It's been a while now, but when I first needed this thing, I tried several racks marketed as stainless that rusted after one or two uses.

Keep the bag from touching the bottom and also from getting sucked into the drain. That's about the only requirement.
 
I got a cheap (c. $12) cookie cooling rack-10 inch diameter in a half inch grid from a restaurant supply store to fit my Anvil. Not stainless and started to rust immediately. Can be mitigated by taking it out immediately after use and drying it, otherwise it leaves rust stains on the bottom of the unit. Probably better to bite the bullet and spend the extra for the real deal. Bobby has a good variety if I recall.
 
I am going to do my first biab soon and was wondering what to use for a False bottom if I need to raise mash temp so the bag doesn't burn. I have a 15 gallon kettle with a 15 1/2 inch inside diameter. Does the False bottom have to be 15 1/2 inches or can you get by with a smaller diameter.
Thanks in advance
What is your intended reason for raising the temp? Step mash? Temperature drop during the mash period?

If you intend to raise the temp with BIAB you need to stir constantly and vigorously as the mash will not allow heat to rise like it would in water and it is really easy to denature the enzymes as part of the mash becomes too hot before your thermometer registers any change. Best practice for the mash is to just insulate the mash the best you can and ignore temperature drop.
 
Thank you all for your responses. My reasons were for temperature drop during the mash period. I have a pulley system but probably couldn't stir the mash while it's lifted up I'll just have to brew a batch and see how it goes.
 
How long will it take for your mash to fully convert? Hint: It probably is not an hour and may be considerably less.
Thank you all for your responses. My reasons were for temperature drop during the mash period. I have a pulley system but probably couldn't stir the mash while it's lifted up I'll just have to brew a batch and see how it goes.
 
You could simply get a pulley system and raise it when you are increasing temp. Lower when ready to mash.
🤯...Thank you for saying this I've been also searching for a false bottom for my biab setup to do a step mash on my Hefe...I already have a pulley system but for some reason it never crossed my mind to do this 🤦 Sometimes we over complicate things
 
You could use a BBQ grate and some SS bolts for legs I've seen that a lot. I don't think it has to fit perfectly as long as the bag is off the bottom. I'd go for starting the mash a few degrees high and wrap it really well and not worry if it drops a few degrees, I don't think it will make a significant difference in taste or mouth feel. Good luck :mug:
 
You can also take the extra slack out of the the bag and hold it tight with a bungie cord so that the bottom of the bag can't reach the bottom.
I doubt that will hold. The bag will probably slowly slip until it's on the bottom again.
 
I am going to do my first biab soon and was wondering what to use for a False bottom if I need to raise mash temp so the bag doesn't burn. I have a 15 gallon kettle with a 15 1/2 inch inside diameter. Does the False bottom have to be 15 1/2 inches or can you get by with a smaller diameter.
Thanks in advance
Several ways you could approach this. It would help to know a little more about your current system and what direction you might want to take it in the future as $ allows.

I often have found when I make changes to my process, it then leads to other changes, improvements and modifications. Certain "mods" can give you more future options than others.

Basic BIAB is just a kettle and a bag. The first "mod" should be a hoist since holding a wet bag while it drains really sucks. This is also all you need to solve your current problem.

Now if you envision a kettle spigot in your future or wish to recirc, then a FB of some sort is going to be needed. Cheap baking/cooling rack or something nicely custom built or whatever you come up with.

If later you desire to move from propane to say an internal SS water heater element, then you will need to raise that false bottom a bit more to clear the element. Will your initial FB accommodate legs or will you need to start a fresh FB?

Certain MODs can be dead ends and other MODs can leave the option for further MODs.
 
I have a 15 gallon megapot on a propane burner. I was hoping for a less expensive option, like maybe a cookie cooling rack or something similar. Thanks for your response

I will note that I melted a slit into a brew bag on the hot upper rim of a kettle. I have found that the heat from the propane burner can really heat up the upper part of my kettle that is above the water line. Just something to keep an eye out for. (This was back when I used to do a mash out, which I no longer do.)

I tend to think that precise mash temps are a bit overrated, especially once you are 20+ minutes into the mash. Trying to add heat with a propane burner on a system without recirculation probably does more damage to the conversion process than just leaving the kettle alone. I wrap up my kettle with a sleeping bag during the mash, and it usually stays within 1-2F over 60 minutes.
 
Thanks everyone, I just came into a little extra fun money so will probably order a false bottom in case I need it for the colder months ahead. ( I brew in the garage)
 
I finally did my first biab brew. I ended up buying a false bottom from brew hardware. I just covered kettle with blankets never checked mash temperature until an hour was up. Lost 2 degrees it was a 50 degree day in Wisconsin brewing in the garage. Thanks again for all the help
 
I often do "reverse mashes" where I mash in at 154* and let it drop to no lower then 143*. Even after 2 hrs in the insulated BK it only gose down to 148*. but i like my beers on the dry side and most of my ferments are around 80% ADF.
I would not heat my mash on a direct fire without being able to pump the wort back on the bottom at a good clip. It's just the de- nature of the beast.
 
When using a false bottom, how do you assure sugars or syrups can be stirred in during the boil without scorching on the bottom?

Two options I can think of.
1. fish the FB out of the kettle after you pull the bag either with a hooked rod or by leaving a cotton string tied to it on one end and tied to the kettle handle on the other.
2. Draw off a little wort into heat safe pitcher or bucket, stir your sugars in well, then add it all back to the boil.
 
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