Facelift for my control panel

Williams 728
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dmcmillen said:
Also any particular pwm controller that you would recommend and how would I use it to test the pump before I complete my electric build?
Click to expand...
I use an Adafruit PRO Trinket for the PWM controller with a 10 turn potentiometer connected to 5v,Gnd, and Analog In "1" (A1). The output PWM pin then just goes to an SSR-->pump. I also use this little chip to operate the element in manual mode. I can expand this to operate as many as 6 PWM devices (only because the arduino only has 6 PWM pins). Here is my simple code if you're interested TRINKET_PWM_CONTROL_V2.
 
currently im using brucontrol to drive all my 24v dc pumps via pwm, I use these boards on my homebrewing system https://www.ebay.com/itm/MOSFET-But...447906?hash=item1c9a568da2:g:HBUAAOSwp5JWaOjr
and I have the TD5 pumps from brewpi for my 3 bbl system which can be driven pwm with the includes potentiometer knob controled board or via brucontrol. I did the water tests last nigh and was impressed the l;ittle pumps are strong enough to push 3 barrels of water into the boil kettle and fill from the bottom against the head pressure. I'll be using them for slow rims and sparge flow.
 
TravPlan said:
I use an Adafruit PRO Trinket for the PWM controller with a 10 turn potentiometer connected to 5v,Gnd, and Analog In "1" (A1). The output PWM pin then just goes to an SSR-->pump. I also use this little chip to operate the element in manual mode. I can expand this to operate as many as 6 PWM devices (only because the arduino only has 6 PWM pins). Here is my simple code if you're interested TRINKET_PWM_CONTROL_V2.
Click to expand...

The PWM frequency is typically 500 or 1000 Hz, depending on the microcontroller chip. That rate is too fast for an SSR, and while it may work in certain ranges, it may skip input cycles too. This rate is good to divide DC power - if you’re switching AC, this rate will really make an AC sine wave very irregular.
 
BrunDog said:
The PWM frequency is typically 500 or 1000 Hz, depending on the microcontroller chip. That rate is too fast for an SSR, and while it may work in certain ranges, it may skip input cycles too. This rate is good to divide DC power - if you’re switching AC, this rate will really make an AC sine wave very irregular.
Click to expand...

The AC SSRs (at least the Crydoms I'm using) are rated at max turn on time of 1/2 cycle, and a max turn off time as 1/2 cycle as well. I would think that for one on/off cycle at 60Hz we would need a max PWM frequency of 60Hz. If you notice the first variable in the code, I've provided a frequency setting. It is currently set at 60Hz, but maybe I'm wrong about the frequency and it should be set to 30Hz? Do you know the recommended frequency for AC pwm? Maybe I'll try 30Hz for a bit and see how it reacts. But I believe you're right that the stock PWM freq. on these things is 1KHz.
 
Sorry... I wasn't clear... First, you should use a MOSFET to drive DC loads off PWM. Since you are using AC, I suggest you get a proportional SSR (caveat: they aren't cheap), and convert the PWM to an analog signal to drive the proportional input. Alternatively, get a variable frequency drive (though your motor will need to be compatible). Would need more info about your hardware to propose more ideas.
 
BrunDog said:
Sorry... I wasn't clear... First, you should use a MOSFET to drive DC loads off PWM. Since you are using AC, I suggest you get a proportional SSR (caveat: they aren't cheap), and convert the PWM to an analog signal to drive the proportional input. Alternatively, get a variable frequency drive (though your motor will need to be compatible). Would need more info about your hardware to propose more ideas.
Click to expand...

Sorry, I suppose I should've been more clear as well.

My pump is 24VDC and is controlled by a DC SSR (which is indeed a MOSFET) with DC input (PWM also). So no problems here, it works beautifuly.
My element is 220VAC 5500W and is drvien by a 50A AC SCR with DC input (PWM in this case).
The pump speed control is beautiful. The element is not perfect. Although it works, and is controllable (the 10 turn pot helps with this, even though i only get 255 steps on my 8bit PWM out) it does not behave totally linearly. I suspect now that is because I was using a 60Hz frequency. In the code, the PWM frequency can be adjusted from 1Hz to 62.5KHz.
I understand now that maybe PWM isn't the preferred option for AC control, but I have to wonder if bringing the frequency down into the 1-10Hz range might result in far better linearity.
 
BrunDog said:
That is a standard SSR. It should not have a PWM input.
Click to expand...
I took your advice after trying to manually control my element with the potentiometer a bit more. The results were worse than I had remembered.
I changed my code. I now have great control over my element controlling with the pot. I made a 10 step program where step one turns the SSR on for 100ms, off for 900ms - and step 9 turn on for 900ms and off for 100ms. Step 0 is "off", step 10 is "on". You could always add as many as 1023 steps i guess, but at 10, the resolution seems good enough. This worked well, thanks for making me revisit this.

Using a DPDT switch I toggle between PID element control to the SSR, or arduino potentiometer control to the SSR.

Click here for code: Element and Pump control, single Arduino, with two pots

So for $10 I have a controller for my pump, and my element.
 
augiedoggy said:
Just a side bar, my 3bbl kettles arrived yesterday.. pretty stoked to get going on my electric panel for that.
Click to expand...

Completely random, but when I saw this my brain went "Is this guy a vampire? He's standing in a room with 3 giant reflective objects and managed to NOT catch himself in any of the surfaces"

On topic...
Are you using something like these for your pump connects? Can they handle the power?
12-21-2018 11-25-04 AM

12-21-2018 11-25-04 AM

 
Ahks said:
Completely random, but when I saw this my brain went "Is this guy a vampire? He's standing in a room with 3 giant reflective objects and managed to NOT catch himself in any of the surfaces"

On topic...
Are you using something like these for your pump connects? Can they handle the power?
12-21-2018 11-25-04 AM

12-21-2018 11-25-04 AM

Click to expand...
yes these work fine for pump connections.. my pumps are low voltage 24v dc and only draw a couple amps.. these are more than capable.
 
I want to move to electric keggles to brew in the bag like brew boss
any one can share the electric scheme for basic control panel 1 pump heating element , to control power at heating element and probably time
 
augiedoggy said:
Thanks,

Yes and yes... I forgot to add the grommet so I will be removing the cord to reinstall it... I use a dedicated pump for all three kettles/tun rims and have it setup so I can direct flow with a couple three way valves and dont need to move hoses around during the brewing process... the whole build is under a grand.

I went with these speed controllers available both on ebay and amazon. Now that I have everything working the way I like im streamlining and "cleaning things up" slowly as I'm getting ready for the deticated brew room when we move.

View attachment 231843

View attachment 231844
Click to expand...
This looks so much like my setup haha. I have the little solar pumps and everything. Way to be economical ;)
 
milk stout.jpg
So a lot has changed and this is what im brewing on these days. Really just a scaled up version of what I built for the pilot system complete with cartridge heater rims.
 
Last edited:
So we received our new unitanks at the brewpub yesterday.. besides having to remove the doorframe to get them in the building I'm ecstatic and couldn't be more satisfied with our purchase.. now I have to beef up our heating and cooling system for the dual zone jackets.
20200228_165626.jpg
20200228_205729.jpg
20200228_205402.jpg
 
augiedoggy said:
Here are some more random pics as I was configuring and experimenting with different free background images I found via google... I know Brucontrol is working on a way to make the background more transparent and not as distracting since it looks almost too cartoonish in some of the shots..

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Click to expand...
Mind sharing your estimated total cost for the fermentation control? Starting to price this out for my build and want to ensure im not way off.
 
sensei247 said:
Mind sharing your estimated total cost for the fermentation control? Starting to price this out for my build and want to ensure im not way off.
Click to expand...
I dont quite remember but it was very cheap I had the DC power supply already so just needed the omron 2 pole relays and the 4 port thermister board from brucontrol as well as the mega. Id say it all cost me about $75 with the enclosure from home depot.
 
augiedoggy said:
I dont quite remember but it was very cheap I had the DC power supply already so just needed the omron 2 pole relays and the 4 port thermister board from brucontrol as well as the mega. Id say it all cost me about $75 with the enclosure from home depot.
Click to expand...

I guess that makes sense...my cost is much higher as I am starting this build from 0 meaning no power supplies, enclosures, wiring, etc. etc.
 

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