Exploring "no chill" brewing

[jahdub]

I'm not too concerned about it being more bitter. Beersmith calculated the recipe at 160+ IBU already.

 

[jtratcliff]

I'm not too concerned about it being more bitter. Beersmith calculated the recipe at 160+ IBU already.

oh... well, carry on then

 

[tnsen]

ok...I dont have the time or patience to read 130 plus pages...tomorrow I am brewing my black ipa...and on planning a rws with a no chill as in pitch 24 hrs later...no cube just sit in my brewpot....question do I leave my hop bags in the wort for the 24 hrs? or remove them...thankx Tom

 

[The Pol]

I'd remove.

 

[jtratcliff]

ok...I dont have the time or patience to read 130 plus pages...tomorrow I am brewing my black ipa...and on planning a rws with a no chill as in pitch 24 hrs later...no cube just sit in my brewpot....question do I leave my hop bags in the wort for the 24 hrs? or remove them...thankx Tom

I've done both. Lately I've been pulling the bag. If I have a flameout addition, I'll leave it for a while before pulling. I cool in the sink for a little while before carrying outside to "slow chill"... Just until it's cool enough to carry without scalding myself. I usually pull the bag right before carrying outside.

There's a chart made by The Pol for how to adjust your hop schedule to account for the extra time at higher heat for the no chill. When I've left the hops in during the overnight chill, I've used The Pol's chart. When I pull my bag (ouch!) I just use a regular hop schedule.

It's mostly shifting bittering additions by 20 minutes And shifting late aroma additions to dry hop. Google for "no chill hops schedule" and use should find it.

 

[The Pol]

Man, that chart is still kicking around?!

 

[jtratcliff]

Yup... You're still the man. Do you still do something like what is shown in the chart? Or have you moved on to another hopping method for no-chill?

 

[The Pol]

The chart is what I do for no chill, period.

And the term RWS is still around?! Jees. I'm amazed.

 

[tnsen]

ok...I found the chart...its killing me FWH...??..yupper I am rookie

 

[tnsen]

First Wort Hop....got it!!....told you I was ROOKIE......thankx for the replies..Tom

 

[watermelon83]

Subd

 

[Zerocrew1984]

I need some help with the hop addition chart. I'm planning on brewing this recipe: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f69/blood-moon-ipa-471019/

1 ounce Cascade @60min
1/2 ounce each of Cascade, Citra and Galaxy @15min
1/2 ounce each of Cascade, Citra and Galaxy @5min
1 ounce each of Cascade, Citra and Galaxy (Dryhop for 6 days after fermentation complete)

What should I do for the FWH? This is an extract brew so I was wondering if I should add those hops with my bag of grains.

 

[eulipion2]

I need some help with the hop addition chart. I'm planning on brewing this recipe: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f69/blood-moon-ipa-471019/

1 ounce Cascade @60min
1/2 ounce each of Cascade, Citra and Galaxy @15min
1/2 ounce each of Cascade, Citra and Galaxy @5min
1 ounce each of Cascade, Citra and Galaxy (Dryhop for 6 days after fermentation complete)

What should I do for the FWH? This is an extract brew so I was wondering if I should add those hops with my bag of grains.

I've never done an extract no-chill, but if I had to guess, I'd throw the FWH in while steeping your grains, and leave them in throughout the brew.

If you follow the chart linked in the first post, your hop schedule would look like:

1/2 oz each Cascade, Citra, and Galaxy - FWH (actually less - you'll have to recalculate IBUs as 30 min addition)
1 oz Cascade - 40 min
1.5 oz each hop - dry hop

I usually calculate my FWH as a 20 minute addition, but that's my impression on my system. Start with it as a 30 min and adjust accordingly.

 

[Zerocrew1984]

Thanks for your help! I do a full boil as my stove top sucks but still doing extract as it is my second batch and I don't want to buy extra stuff quite yet. I didn't even think about calculating ibu's.

 

[Powerturn11]

My god I can't believe I read that entire thread anyways I've been wanting to do this method for a long while now. Since I've started brewing I've hated the cooling of the wort. I live in Colorado and it's always bothered me wasting all of that water, water is precious here in the west. I've already ordered my plastic containers and can't wait to give this a shot. When I started brewing I thought I needed all of the latest and greatest equipment to brew great beer. I was wrong. I started out extract, then BIAB, then I made a mash tun, bought the latest and greatest kettle, immersion chillers, etc. Brewing got to be more of a chore than fun. Recently I've gone back to BIAB and my last few brews I've just sat my brew kettle outside for a few hours to cool and beers have turned out great. So much simpler, less cleanup, less time, all in all having a lot more fun again.

Oh and I've even gone back to bottling most of my beers even though I own several kegs. Funny how works.

 

[RM-MN]

My god I can't believe I read that entire thread anyways I've been wanting to do this method for a long while now. Since I've started brewing I've hated the cooling of the wort. I live in Colorado and it's always bothered me wasting all of that water, water is precious here in the west. I've already ordered my plastic containers and can't wait to give this a shot. When I started brewing I thought I needed all of the latest and greatest equipment to brew great beer. I was wrong. I started out extract, then BIAB, then I made a mash tun, bought the latest and greatest kettle, immersion chillers, etc. Brewing got to be more of a chore than fun. Recently I've gone back to BIAB and my last few brews I've just sat my brew kettle outside for a few hours to cool and beers have turned out great. So much simpler, less cleanup, less time, all in all having a lot more fun again.

Oh and I've even gone back to bottling most of my beers even though I own several kegs. Funny how works.

You don't really think that those brewers from 400 years ago had immersion chillers, now do you? They didn't even have airlocks! How bad was the beer that they made?

Yes, we have made brewing more complicated, much more than necessary it seems.:rockin:

 

[Powerturn11]

You don't really think that those brewers from 400 years ago had immersion chillers, now do you? They didn't even have airlocks! How bad was the beer that they made?



Yes, we have made brewing more complicated, much more than necessary it seems.:rockin:

Totally agree. I think everyone tends to over complicate the process to make a good beer. View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1427157721.771328.jpg this is my last no chill BIAB irish red.

 

[Tegra]

What do you think of this twist.......?

We already have some that passively cool in the kettle and then transfer and pitch the next day. It has been suggested that you might transfer only half of the wort and pitch a single pack of yeast into this smaller amount in the fermenter. The next day, after the yeast has built up its population and is beginning its work, you would add the rest of the wort to the fermenter. (This is not my idea and forgive me if this has already been thrashed around)

This will do away with the need the need for extra yeast or a starter. (In essence you are making a monster starter. (I read that this actually the way some brewing is done. Although this does seem complicated, depending on how you transfer it could actually simplify the process?

It was presented as a way to save a few bucks, but I think it would also save some mucking about with starters.

Anyone tried this? (I am thinking of trying on my next batch just to say I have)

Tom

 

[Brewsday]

I, and many others on this forum, have repeatedly just pitched dry yeast into a batch with very satisfactory results. As in some of the most recent posts...this feels like complicating the process to me. Now if you were brewing some kind of super-clean beer for a competiton or something, this might make sense. But then would you be no-chilling?
I have often pitched right on to the foam layer created by my "aeration" methods (sometimes shaking, sometimes O2) and I have seen action in the air locks within hours. I am no award-winning brewer but I read a fair amount. There is a TON of interesting science around yeast...but "simple" has advantages too.

 

[Powerturn11]

Speaking of competition. I scored a 40 in a aha/BJCP comp on an American wheat beer. No chill, BIAB, us-05 yeast pitched right on top, no starter, no rehydration.

 

[ArcLight]

If a guy wanted to use a bucket for no chill, or slow chill rather, could he rack into the bucket and then put the aeration hose through the grommet in the lid, attach the diffusion stone, put the lid on and use that for the suck back as the wort cools? HEPA filter attached and high heat hose of course. This way once the wort is cooled you can aerate, pitch and be done.

Why not aerate when you are ready to pitch?

Why aerate ahead of time, other than to help any microbes introduced into the wort? The only exception would be it might hinder botulism which is anaerobic.

 

[Zibe]

MY DUMB NO CHILL MISTAKE

Tried to "no chill" for the first time (really slow chill since I was just going to let it cool overnight in the kettle). Anyway, I made a brilliant plan to split a piece of tubing, wrap that around the lip of the rim, and use some paper clamps to make a good seal. NO I'm not a complete idiot I did realize it would contract so I left a little gap in the tubing for relief (the idea was after it cooled a little bit I would drape a star san soaked cloth over this opening to mitigate nasties entering). YES I'm enough of an idiot to not realize the tubing would expand thus making the complete seal I did not want. When I checked after an hour I found this:
View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1429004211.079543.jpg

I needed a screw driver to pry the lid off it was sealed so tight. The next morning when I transferred to a bucket I was able to get the pot mostly back into shape (none worse for wear)
View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1429004339.458899.jpg

But the lid will be an ever present reminder of bad ideas and the irrefutable laws of physics
View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1429004409.179743.jpg

 

[riderkb]

MY DUMB NO CHILL MISTAKE


View attachment 270988

I have heard of pro brewers doing this with 20 bbl conicals, so don't feel too bad.

 

[Zibe]

Yeah...thing is that was the inaugural run for that brew pot, fortunately it's still fine can't imagine what it would've looked like had I left it all night

 

[Tegra]

Zibe:

Thanks for posting!

I was looking for a large gasket on top of my kettle, and I think I have found it!

I would have thought that the gap would have allowed some leakage. Especially as it cooled and shrunk, but maybe the pot cooling pressed it together more?

My application is opposite, it has to keep a seal as things heat up.

Worst case is a small leak I have to plug.

Tom

 

[Zibe]

Cool can't claim credit I saw it on another thread where someone did that and drilled a hole in the lid for an airlock to make a cheap stainless fermenter. Depending on how hot yours will get I would switch to silicone instead of the standard vinyl tubing. I didn't leave a big gap but yeah it sealed well.

 

[Zibe]

I want to give full credit for the tubing seal idea but I don't know how or if I can post a link from my phone but the thread name is: DIY Stainless Steel Fermenters and the author was Brewzologist

 

[Brewsday]

I had a little trouble finding this (not sure why) so here's the link...LOOKS GREAT, just what I had in mind.
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=490055

 

[Zibe]

That be the one yeah I also plan on doing that in the future but I'll have to rework my fermentation chamber since I made it for a bucket

 

[Tegra]

Love the link on that post on how to manufacture your own o-rings and how to splice silicone items.

Tom