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English Ales - What's your favorite recipe?

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Need a little help from the resident English yeast experts.

I brewed a bitter a couple of weeks ago, typical brew day. Used RO water the one different thing I did was a pack of Omega 006 yeast or the whitbread strain. It attenuated well down to 1.010.

Ok so here is the problem. It has a hint of sewer in the aroma and I can't stop smelling it. It's almost like eating a Belgian abbey cheese that has that hint of ass. Not quite the Limburger level but the same smell.

I have never had this in a beer before and can only think it's coming from the yeast. Anyone ever get something like this?
https://escarpmentlabs.com/blogs/resources/5-off-flavours-beer-yeast

Look at item 3. This, apart from the reference to burnt matches, describes my experience, exactly. Also, adding nutrient cured the problem. Not sure about the other mumbo jumbo about using copper tubes.
If I were a chemist, I'd be asking where the sulphur compounds are coming from and I would suspect the yeast is finding its nutrients in hop compounds and leaving some of the simpler mercaptans behind. This is pure speculation on my part, but I know the smell you're getting is neither sulphur dioxide (matches) nor hydrogen sulphide (rotten eggs). Smells are notoriously difficult to describe.

Edit:
This makes for interesting reading:
https://search.brave.com/search?q=m...summary=1&conversation=781c19b798cd1aa0ef8725

We know that enzymes in yeast (beta-lyase) modify hop oil components to produce some of the more complex thiols (mercaptans) and we call this "biotransformation". I think it's likely that, in the absence of suffient nutrients, a certain group of yeasts might take a metabolic pathway which releases some of the lower ones, which stink and have an extremely low taste threshold.
How the yeast cleans this up again, I have no idea, except to say that I've had some beers which, after many months, we're not completely cleaned up.
 
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I love all sorts of cheeses that many people find thoroughly disgusting, including this stuff

View attachment 882316
which I understand is sadly no longer legal. But I don't want any of it in my beer.
That looks interesting.
Over here we have some real stinkers: https://search.brave.com/search?q=T...summary=1&conversation=eda75cdca5c5f2e78eccb1
although I've never tasted the limburger that @Pennine mentions.
I once attempted to bring a very fragrant cheese back to the UK without stinking out the car. I failed. The car ponged like a sumo wrestler's jockstrap. The cheese was Livarot. I wrapped it in its box with cling film, put the box inside a tupperware container and taped the seals, wrapped the whole thing in aluminium foil and again with cling film.
Not only did it not work, but the cheese tainted the tupperware box which was unusable until it had been through the dish washer.
 
I've just finished brewing a mango madness based bitter yesterday, which is bubbling away happily in the 30°C kitche right now. It is about 1.04 OG and a bit of a British/German mix. Mainly MO pale, about 25% Munich 2 and 10% Carafoam. about 38 Ibus from northdown @60min and @10min. Nothing dry.

I've never tried Northdown before but it smells truely amazing. Although it is a 2023 Harvest pack. Really really herbally, no fruit, but all the denser flavours that I like in a British bitter. If this is going to come through in the beer, it will be really good.

I've seen you guys @An Ankoù and @Northern_Brewer at the Mango Madness thread in the Bri'ish forum. You didn't seem overly impressed by this yeast but the thread was a bit older. Any news on WHC Mango Madness from your side?

@Bassman2003 I've reduced the SMB down to a third, compared to the last times amount, which should be about 75 ppm now. The mash was smelling like the previous one with the 200 ppm SMB, it did not smell much at all. But the boil was a bit different this time. Flocculation was not as extreme as last time and it also was smelling stronger. I think I might have undershot the SMB this time. Let's see.

The previous 200 ppm SMB bitter has now finally cleared and all weired flavours are gone with the haze (except of the sulfur of course, although even that one is a bit subdued by now). It took ages to clear and what's left is remerkably clean. Even a bit too clean if you ask me. What's a real bummer is that this particular beer has exactly zero head retention. It behaves almost like a cider in the glass. I have no idea why this could be, Ibus are around 40, only thing that comes to my mind is that I only used one mash step at 65°C and did not include a higher step. Infection should also not paly a role here as carbonation did not change since it was finished. Maybe some of the lipids from the sludge seeped back into solution? I transfered everything from the boil into the fermenter, did not seperate solids from liquids. I've also read that transfered trub can kind of "clog up" yeasts outer cell walls. They then extcrete some protein degrading enzymes which also can effect head retention heavily. Multiple sources of zero head in here....

My current beer was mashed around 70°C and I brought the temperature up on the stove to 75 as a "mash out" step with the bag already being removed to promote glycoprotein production. Maybe this actually works. I do not want to do infusion mashes with my BIAB because I would introdue so much Oxygen this way. Maybe it is enough to mash at the given temperature, remove the bag and then do the higher temperature step without the mash. Let's see. What I also did here was, I did not transfer the main portion of the trub into the fermenter, it went down the drain.

Maybe I should dedicate a thread to this topic, BIAB and SMB.
 
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https://escarpmentlabs.com/blogs/resources/5-off-flavours-beer-yeast

Look at item 3. This, apart from the reference to burnt matches, describes my experience, exactly. Also, adding nutrient cured the problem. Not sure about the other mumbo jumbo about using copper tubes.
If I were a chemist, I'd be asking where the sulphur compounds are coming from and I would suspect the yeast is finding its nutrients in hop compounds and leaving some of the simpler mercaptans behind. This is pure speculation on my part, but I know the smell you're getting is neither sulphur dioxide (matches) nor hydrogen sulphide (rotten eggs). Smells are notoriously difficult to describe.

Edit:
This makes for interesting reading:
https://search.brave.com/search?q=m...summary=1&conversation=781c19b798cd1aa0ef8725

We know that enzymes in yeast (beta-lyase) modify hop oil components to produce some of the more complex thiols (mercaptans) and we call this "biotransformation". I think it's likely that, in the absence of suffient nutrients, a certain group of yeasts might take a metabolic pathway which releases some of the lower ones, which stink and have an extremely low taste threshold.
How the yeast cleans this up again, I have no idea, except to say that I've had some beers which, after many months, we're not completely cleaned up.
Yes good reminder about taking care of the yeast. I should also say the pack was shipped in warmer weather and was ballooned up. Typical for things when they ship to me due to the elevation. Usually I skip the starter because I only brew smaller 10-13l batches. I do put a drop of zinc in the fermenter but likely I should have done a starter or nutrients for that one.
 
My response might have come across as a bit antagonistic, but that's because the assumption in the question was that I was making a US take on a British style, even though I had not mentioned any US ingredients or anything that could be construed as US. If I had said I wanted to brew an English brown ale that's 8% ABV with Columbus and Centennial, fermented with US-05 or BRY-97 or whatever, then Zadkiel's question of "Are you actually trying to make an accurate English Ale, or making a US beer in an English Ale style?" wouldn't have rubbed me the wrong way. My brown ale was composed of malts from Crisp, Muntons, and Simpsons, and used Fuggle as the only hop. The OG, IBU, SRM, and so on are all extremely common for the style among commercial English brown ales. So then what would make the beer "a US beer"? It almost seems like the place where the person making the beer lives determines what beer it is according to that line or reasoning.

I gave my answer to that in my first reply, and apologised for my incorrect assumption. Maybe you missed it? As to your ingredients, none of that was in your original post that I responded to (and no particular reason why you would, as your question was about yeast only) so that information wasn't available to me. If you consider that this forum is dominated by US brewers, and it's easy for me to miss the location field in your profile, then perhaps then you can see the question "Are you trying to make an accurate English Ale, or making a US beer in an English Ale style?" wasn't meant in an antagonising way, or to 'rub you the wrong way' but instead just because of an easy to make mistake, and the fact that UK/EU Malts generally aren't available in the US, and vice-versa.

Hope this helps to make peace :)
 
What cheese is that?
That looks interesting.
Looks like casu martzu or one of the closely related cheeses from Corsica. Basically a goat or sheep milk cheese "ripened" through inoculation with cheese fly larvae.
Correct. Although my dad always called it formaggio coi vermi.
And, yes, illegal throughout most of the world as the larvae can cause pseudomyiasis.
Theoretically, but I don't believe there has ever been a documented case linked to eating the cheese. The little suckers can carry all sorts of nasty bacteria though.
 
I gave my answer to that in my first reply, and apologised for my incorrect assumption. Maybe you missed it? As to your ingredients, none of that was in your original post that I responded to (and no particular reason why you would, as your question was about yeast only) so that information wasn't available to me. If you consider that this forum is dominated by US brewers, and it's easy for me to miss the location field in your profile, then perhaps then you can see the question "Are you trying to make an accurate English Ale, or making a US beer in an English Ale style?" wasn't meant in an antagonising way, or to 'rub you the wrong way' but instead just because of an easy to make mistake, and the fact that UK/EU Malts generally aren't available in the US, and vice-versa.

Hope this helps to make peace :)
I don't hold it against you. And I think it shows why making assumptions is never a good idea. :) I'll also say that if you had said "I think you should use Nottingham because I really like the flavor profile and how it gives the beer the nice dry character I enjoy in English ales," I would have agreed with you 100% since I personally use Nottingham a lot in English bitters and English IPAs, which I tend to aim for a pretty dry character, since hey, that's what makes them so sessionable. It's a very clean yeast that I've used in hoppy English ales and in high ABV English styles (such as RISs and so on. I haven't used it in a barleywine before, but that's just because I've never brewed a barleywine before, but I definitely would love to).
 
Curious if any one has brewed the Lion Bridge Brewing Compensation Dark Mild.
I bring this up because the recipe calls for 12oz/.75lbs of Melanodin malt, I find this a bit unusual. As I've only used Melanodin around the 2oz mark for pilsners...

AHA clone recipe: Lion Bridge Brewing Compensation, Compensation Dark Mild
The AHA recipe is for 10 gallons but I've scaled it to 5 gallons

4# maris otter
1.5# Munch
.75# Melanodin
.625# pale chocolate malt
.5# Amber malt
.375# Crystal 77
.25# Brown malt

.5oz fuggle 10m
.5oz flameout

WLP036 Dusseldorf
 
Happy to report the off smell is fading fast and it's turning out to be a mighty fine pint.

20250816_124424.jpg
 
@Bassman2003 I've reduced the SMB down to a third, compared to the last times amount, which should be about 75 ppm now. The mash was smelling like the previous one with the 200 ppm SMB, it did not smell much at all. But the boil was a bit different this time. Flocculation was not as extreme as last time and it also was smelling stronger. I think I might have undershot the SMB this time. Let's see.

The previous 200 ppm SMB bitter has now finally cleared and all weired flavours are gone with the haze (except of the sulfur of course, although even that one is a bit subdued by now). It took ages to clear and what's left is remerkably clean. Even a bit too clean if you ask me. What's a real bummer is that this particular beer has exactly zero head retention. It behaves almost like a cider in the glass. I have no idea why this could be, Ibus are around 40, only thing that comes to my mind is that I only used one mash step at 65°C and did not include a higher step. Infection should also not paly a role here as carbonation did not change since it was finished. Maybe some of the lipids from the sludge seeped back into solution? I transfered everything from the boil into the fermenter, did not seperate solids from liquids. I've also read that transfered trub can kind of "clog up" yeasts outer cell walls. They then extcrete some protein degrading enzymes which also can effect head retention heavily. Multiple sources of zero head in here....

My current beer was mashed around 70°C and I brought the temperature up on the stove to 75 as a "mash out" step with the bag already being removed to promote glycoprotein production. Maybe this actually works. I do not want to do infusion mashes with my BIAB because I would introdue so much Oxygen this way. Maybe it is enough to mash at the given temperature, remove the bag and then do the higher temperature step without the mash. Let's see. What I also did here was, I did not transfer the main portion of the trub into the fermenter, it went down the drain.

Maybe I should dedicate a thread to this topic, BIAB and SMB.
It is a process. Low oxygen beers are clean and when you first start making them, they may appear too clean. This is up to your preference. I can see in a UK style, low oxygen might be too clean. When I brew Scottish ale (Jamil's brewing classic styles recipe), I do notice I enjoy it more after it has been tapped for a month so a little micro oxidation takes place. But, on the other hand, the beers are not flabby and the last a lot longer. So you can play with water profiles or other levers to keep the low oxygen-ness but add a little bit if grit as well.

Head retention is strong with low oxygen beers ime, so the cause should be something else. The group always says, seriously give it 5-10 beers for your process to stabilize then judge the results. This sounds like it is complicated but a lot of changes take place and you need some time to get it dialed in. Since you brew small batches, this should not take too much time.

Keep me updated as I am happy to help.
 
I've just finished brewing a mango madness based bitter yesterday, which is bubbling away happily in the 30°C kitche right now. It is about 1.04 OG and a bit of a British/German mix. Mainly MO pale, about 25% Munich 2 and 10% Carafoam. about 38 Ibus from northdown @60min and @10min. Nothing dry.

I've never tried Northdown before but it smells truely amazing. Although it is a 2023 Harvest pack. Really really herbally, no fruit, but all the denser flavours that I like in a British bitter. If this is going to come through in the beer, it will be really good.

I've seen you guys @An Ankoù and @Northern_Brewer at the Mango Madness thread in the Bri'ish forum. You didn't seem overly impressed by this yeast but the thread was a bit older. Any news on WHC Mango Madness from your side?

@Bassman2003 I've reduced the SMB down to a third, compared to the last times amount, which should be about 75 ppm now. The mash was smelling like the previous one with the 200 ppm SMB, it did not smell much at all. But the boil was a bit different this time. Flocculation was not as extreme as last time and it also was smelling stronger. I think I might have undershot the SMB this time. Let's see.

The previous 200 ppm SMB bitter has now finally cleared and all weired flavours are gone with the haze (except of the sulfur of course, although even that one is a bit subdued by now). It took ages to clear and what's left is remerkably clean. Even a bit too clean if you ask me. What's a real bummer is that this particular beer has exactly zero head retention. It behaves almost like a cider in the glass. I have no idea why this could be, Ibus are around 40, only thing that comes to my mind is that I only used one mash step at 65°C and did not include a higher step. Infection should also not paly a role here as carbonation did not change since it was finished. Maybe some of the lipids from the sludge seeped back into solution? I transfered everything from the boil into the fermenter, did not seperate solids from liquids. I've also read that transfered trub can kind of "clog up" yeasts outer cell walls. They then extcrete some protein degrading enzymes which also can effect head retention heavily. Multiple sources of zero head in here....

My current beer was mashed around 70°C and I brought the temperature up on the stove to 75 as a "mash out" step with the bag already being removed to promote glycoprotein production. Maybe this actually works. I do not want to do infusion mashes with my BIAB because I would introdue so much Oxygen this way. Maybe it is enough to mash at the given temperature, remove the bag and then do the higher temperature step without the mash. Let's see. What I also did here was, I did not transfer the main portion of the trub into the fermenter, it went down the drain.

Maybe I should dedicate a thread to this topic, BIAB and SMB.
Apparently, this one is done. No activity whatsoever since over 24h. I brewed this on Friday evening, today we have Sunday midday. That's a fast one. I don't intend to bottle before coming Friday, but I'm sure I could and it would be fine.
 
It is a process. Low oxygen beers are clean and when you first start making them, they may appear too clean. This is up to your preference. I can see in a UK style, low oxygen might be too clean. When I brew Scottish ale (Jamil's brewing classic styles recipe), I do notice I enjoy it more after it has been tapped for a month so a little micro oxidation takes place. But, on the other hand, the beers are not flabby and the last a lot longer. So you can play with water profiles or other levers to keep the low oxygen-ness but add a little bit if grit as well.

Head retention is strong with low oxygen beers ime, so the cause should be something else. The group always says, seriously give it 5-10 beers for your process to stabilize then judge the results. This sounds like it is complicated but a lot of changes take place and you need some time to get it dialed in. Since you brew small batches, this should not take too much time.

Keep me updated as I am happy to help.
Thanks, that's what I thought.

This head retention thing is an ongoing topic over here, but prior to the test batch, I've kind of solved it. Let's see how the next batch turns out.
 
I don't intend to bottle before coming Friday, but I'm sure I could and it would be fine.

I'd bet you're right especially w/ bottling process and a little extra fermentation coming up.

I used the OYL-016 Omega "Extra Special" in a beer I made Monday, and 6 days later it's done and noticeably clear. I'll wait another week since I don't have an empty keg, but - some yeasts seem to just get the job done very quickly.
 
I wonder if Mango Madness is actually a Kveik in disguise. There are voices online that say its an Ebbegarden isolate and voices that say there is no connection to kveik. I really hope that I am not going to taste kveikiness.....
 
I wonder if Mango Madness is actually a Kveik in disguise. There are voices online that say its an Ebbegarden isolate and voices that say there is no connection to kveik. I really hope that I am not going to taste kveikiness.....
I didn't when I used it, and I'm generally very Kveik sensitive. It also didn't accentuate bitterness in the same way that Ebbegarden does when I've used it.
 
I didn't when I used it, and I'm generally very Kveik sensitive. It also didn't accentuate bitterness in the same way that Ebbegarden does when I've used it.
That's good news! How did you like it and where did you use it in?
 
"Cask bitter"? He didn't say "cask" or "bitter" (and neither did I). He said "it will give you a drier finish which is essential for the English Ale style," which is just wrong. If he had said "which is essential for English cask bitters," I would have just thought "okay, that may or may not be true, but why are you talking about cask bitters when I'm asking about yeast for a Northern English-style brown ale?"
Because there's no such thing as a special yeast for brown ale - breweries would just use their house yeast, and the stats for cask bitter are a way to get an idea of what their house yeasts were like in a reasonably standardised recipe. Indeed, in many cases the brown ale didn't just use the same yeast but was the same actual beer, just the bitter or mild with some caramel to colour it up a bit. That certainly seems to be the case for the earliest commercial brown ale that Ron has found that he can match to a recipe book (Fuller's in 1909), before then "nut-brown ale" seems to have little more than a romantic phrase for just "beer" in poetry and songs. One can imagine that adding caramel to an existing beer to create another brand probably started soon after the Free Mash Tun Act of 1880 gave more freedom around adding sugar products to beer.
I personally think of British brown ales as being largely divided into Northern English and Southern English styles, but the thing is, even that simplifies it too much. I could expand it to include London brown ales,
It needs repeating - despite the current survivors (or not), Michael Jackson's distinction between northern and southern brown ales is nonsense. You could get Pompey Double Brown at 5.7% ABV and 84% aa in Portsmouth, and Maxim at 3.7% and 72% from Vaux in Sunderland - and sometimes both styles from the same brewery, Vaux being one example. Tennants of Sheffield and Sam Smiths were also in the "sweet, weak" camp. So a geographical split makes no sense. Ron prefers Brown Ale and Double Brown Ale, with a slightly arbitrary dividing line around 1042º, whereas Martyn Cornell (RIP) viewed Newcastle Brown as just another strong bitter in the same family as Riggwelter etc :

And then if you want more reading on the subject, Ron brings the detail : https://barclayperkins.blogspot.com/search/label/Brown Ale
My response might have come across as a bit antagonistic, but that's because the assumption in the question was that I was making a US take on a British style,
But there was no such assumption, Zadkiel was just trying to clarify what the question was. In fact it was you making the assumption (that there was an assumption in the question), rather than Zadkiel. But in any case, maybe it's a good idea to give people the benefit of the doubt when you don't know them and are in a medium where nuance is notoriously difficult, rather than allowing yourself to be "rubbed the wrong way" and become "antagonistic"?
you might debate whether it's even a real style, but just like music styles and so on, it's easy for the sake of simplicity in explaining what you're making
See the Cornell article - there comes a point when you're adding "clothes horse" and "seahorse" to a horse category because of the name, where the category becomes rather meaningless. Frankly, if Newky Brown is what you're trying to clone, just say so, in the same way that people say they're going for Orval or SNPA.
In my case, I stopped using liquid yeast years ago, but even if I wanted to use liquid yeasts now, the really unfortunate thing is that I don't really have much access to them. I could get the really mainstream liquid yeasts like WLP005 for a very high price, but I couldn't get Ringwood or Burton Ale or Manchester or Thames Valley or Essex Ale or West Yorkshire or so on.
Well I'm well aware that people have all sorts of reasons for not using liquid yeasts, and living somewhere without good homebrew retailers is obviously one of them, so I'm always careful to not imply people are "l0s3rs" for doing so. At the same time, one can't really get away from the fact that for British beers, dry yeasts are a bit meh in comparison to alternatives. If I had to use dry yeast for a commercial golden ale tomorrow, I'd probably use MJ M36 Liberty Bell, if the requirement was for a brown/black beer for competition (so emphasis more on standing out rather than mass-market appeal) and I had time to make a test beer, I'd probably do tests with different combinations of T-58 ("super-Windsor") and BE-256.

I guess in your situation, one very obvious option to get good yeast would be to see if you could harvest from the likes of Fuller's 1845 or Rochefort 10 - don't know how easy they are to get in good condition with you, maybe if you have British friends who could get 1845 fresh from home, or maybe if you ever travel to Oz/HK/Singapore their British connections may give you more options in beer shops? Or find local homebrewers who may be able to share yeast? Rochefort dregs are awesome.

I imagine it probably makes more sense for you to import most things from the west coast of the US, but just out of interest I checked www.themaltmiller.co.uk and DHL for a pack of liquid yeast and 5 Brewlab slopes (<500g???) to the UK Tokyo embassy works out at £36.41 (US$49, JPY7,200) delivery for a total of £77.17 (US$104, JPY15,300) - which feels like it could be a lot worse, considering? They are the main retailer for Brewlab slopes and also get vault strains on request when available (most of the ones you mention are hard to get here too!), I think White Labs are maybe learning to not do too many vault strains in summer/winter, at the moment yeastman.com only shows WLP009, WLP064 and WLP515 in production, there's usually a few more than that.
 
I have seen references to BE-256 having an English origin, but I've never seen anybody taking about using it for English styles. I did a cursory search one time and found references to banana, so I've never tried it. I don't like those flavors at all and avoid Belgians and hefes. Have you ever tried it in an English? Has anybody?
I've only used it since I got long Covid which has knocked out a lot of my ability to smell/taste fruity/estery flavours, but I don't get banana and other victims of my beer haven't commented on it. I suspect your source fermented it warm, whereas I ferment it at normal-ish British temperatures (18-20°C, 64-68°F).

I have used it in a golden ale (have to check, think it was with Belma) and in a stronger darker one, partigyled with a 4% bitter. All worked pretty well from a yeast POV, although it pales side by side with WLP540 and the extra complexity of Rochefort dregs.
I've seen you guys @An Ankoù and @Northern_Brewer at the Mango Madness thread in the Bri'ish forum. You didn't seem overly impressed by this yeast but the thread was a bit older. Any news on WHC Mango Madness from your side?
Not used it as not a big fan of WHC from the POVs of both QA and respecting other people's IP, but they work for some people.

With MM having a recommended temperature range of 31-37°C (88-99°F), very high nitrogen demand etc, it has to be kveik. I wonder if it might be a blend of Hornindal and Ebbegarden maybe, but I have no particular insight.
 
I love all sorts of cheeses that many people find thoroughly disgusting, including this stuff

View attachment 882316
which I understand is sadly no longer legal. But I don't want any of it in my beer.
I once found a Camembert that was like that on the underside, about two weeks past its date in the local farm shop, which was maybe not as diligent at checking dates as the big chains. After brushing off the maggots it was fabulous, super-runny and so tasty.
Barnyard, the euphemism for cow ****. Now that you say that I might be able to trick myself in liking it.
Barnyard is highly sought after in a lot of top-end red wines.

It's like a lot of these things, a little bit gives appealing complexity, when a lot of it - is just a pile of 💩
 
Curious if any one has brewed the Lion Bridge Brewing Compensation Dark Mild.
I bring this up because the recipe calls for 12oz/.75lbs of Melanodin malt, I find this a bit unusual. As I've only used Melanodin around the 2oz mark for pilsners...

AHA clone recipe: Lion Bridge Brewing Compensation, Compensation Dark Mild
The AHA recipe is for 10 gallons but I've scaled it to 5 gallons

4# maris otter
1.5# Munch
.75# Melanodin
.625# pale chocolate malt
.5# Amber malt
.375# Crystal 77
.25# Brown malt

.5oz fuggle 10m
.5oz flameout

WLP036 Dusseldorf
From yeast to grist it doesn't bear too much resemblance to traditional British milds, particularly in the homeland of the West Midlands. But I see the original beer has won competitions in the US, and it feels like one of the mini-porters that stand out in competition that seems to be the modern way for milds, regardless of what they were traditionally. But hey - what matters is that it makes beer you find enjoyable.

One thing I would emphasise - don't overcarbonate it, mild with carbonic bite is disgusting.
 
I've only used it since I got long Covid which has knocked out a lot of my ability to smell/taste fruity/estery flavours, but I don't get banana and other victims of my beer haven't commented on it. I suspect your source fermented it warm, whereas I ferment it at normal-ish British temperatures (18-20°C, 64-68°F).

I have used it in a golden ale (have to check, think it was with Belma) and in a stronger darker one, partigyled with a 4% bitter. All worked pretty well from a yeast POV, although it pales side by side with WLP540 and the extra complexity of Rochefort dregs.

Not used it as not a big fan of WHC from the POVs of both QA and respecting other people's IP, but they work for some people.

With MM having a recommended temperature range of 31-37°C (88-99°F), very high nitrogen demand etc, it has to be kveik. I wonder if it might be a blend of Hornindal and Ebbegarden maybe, but I have no particular insight.
I thought the same regarding temperature range and nitrogen demand, but on the other hand there are no people online that witnessed the kveikiness with these. We will know in one or two hours, I am going to bottle this one and will post the first impression of the green brew.
 
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Well, it's awfully early to really judge it, but I think I can taste a kveik twang. Not in your face like, so could be confirmation bias.

Let's see once it's carbed up. Can be a decent beer still. No off-flavour accept for the yeast in suspension of course. But this will settle. No mango though. Sometimes marketing can be a pain.

Just for the record, I've had English beers that tasted almost as acidic as this one when young, so the "twang" could theoretically still fade into nothingness.

From 1.04 to 1.007 or 1.008 which is conveniently what I like to see in a bitter.
 
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Because there's no such thing as a special yeast for brown ale - breweries would just use their house yeast, and the stats for cask bitter are a way to get an idea of what their house yeasts were like in a reasonably standardised recipe. Indeed, in many cases the brown ale didn't just use the same yeast but was the same actual beer, just the bitter or mild with some caramel to colour it up a bit. That certainly seems to be the case for the earliest commercial brown ale that Ron has found that he can match to a recipe book (Fuller's in 1909), before then "nut-brown ale" seems to have little more than a romantic phrase for just "beer" in poetry and songs. One can imagine that adding caramel to an existing beer to create another brand probably started soon after the Free Mash Tun Act of 1880 gave more freedom around adding sugar products to beer.

It needs repeating - despite the current survivors (or not), Michael Jackson's distinction between northern and southern brown ales is nonsense. You could get Pompey Double Brown at 5.7% ABV and 84% aa in Portsmouth, and Maxim at 3.7% and 72% from Vaux in Sunderland - and sometimes both styles from the same brewery, Vaux being one example. Tennants of Sheffield and Sam Smiths were also in the "sweet, weak" camp. So a geographical split makes no sense. Ron prefers Brown Ale and Double Brown Ale, with a slightly arbitrary dividing line around 1042º, whereas Martyn Cornell (RIP) viewed Newcastle Brown as just another strong bitter in the same family as Riggwelter etc :
I really don't care how things were 100 or 200 years ago. Or even 50 years ago. I've never been the kind of guy to want to recreate historical beers or modern beers in an older style (unless that style changed within my lifetime and was something that I really liked).

I've never read anything Michael Jackson has written. Before I started homebrewing, I had never even heard of the BJCP. But I had drank a ton of English ales, both bottled and on tap, and I had never thought "this is just a brown-colored bitter" or "this is a brown-colored mild." I suppose if you really wanted to expand the definition of bitters (much like you can really expand the definition of pale ales) or milds, you can. But I'm not trying to make beers based off things I've only seen written about in text. I'm trying to make things based off of what I've drunk. And I wouldn't say "Newcastle Brown Ale," because I don't like Newcastle Brown Ale. Sure, it falls into the same category, but I don't find it to be the kind of thing I would want to make myself.

And if you're going to go down the route of "all these beer styles don't even really exist," then saying that Verdant "isn't to style" would be incorrect since the beer style doesn't even really exist supposedly.

Regardless of whether Northern English Brown Ale, Southern English Brown Ale, and London Brown Ale are actual regional styles or not, they are actual variations on the overall English brown ale style (which is essentially just a caramel-heavy pale ale, which can range from having almost no hoppyness to being somewhat hoppy). I do find "Northern English Brown Ale" much more convenient than to say "English brown ales that tend to be slightly darker, slightly higher in alcohol, slightly more bitter, generally less sweet, and so on and so forth."

I'm not sure if the "Northern" and "Southern" distinction just has to do with where they originated or what the trend in those regions is or what, but you do have a good point. A lot of my favorite "Northern English" brown ales are actually from Southern England or the middle of England. There are a few that I really liked before I ever even considered homebrewing that fit into what I think of as "Northern English" brown ales that are from neither Northern nor Southern England, but are smackdab in the middle of the Midlands or the Northern part of Southern England. So at the very least I've long known that a brown ale made in the north or the south isn't necessarily going to fit into the regional category.

Some people hate categories. Some people love them. I find them to be very convenient, though you could certainly argue whether the regional aspect is accurate or not. But, whether it is or not, it does seem to be the predominant way the style is referred to. People might scoff at calling a band "avant-garde progressive blackened death metal," but it's going to give you a much better idea of the sound than simply saying "they defy categorization." Since I was asking about yeast (which yes, most breweries have a house yeast that they use for everything, but most homebrewers tend to try out a lot of different commercial yeasts), simply saying "British Brown Ale" or "English Brown Ale" would have been sufficient, though I used "Northern" to kind of clarify that my interest in trying out Windsor would not result in it being dry like all of the brown ales I've made before. Just how prominent that style is in the north versus the south is something I wouldn't know, but it's certainly easier to say it that way, and people tend to know what I mean.

EDIT: And, while I've heard these two main styles of "Northern English Brown Ale" and "Southern English Brown Ale" since before I started homebrewing and before I had ever heard of the BJCP, I had never heard of "Double Brown" before, so I thought maybe it was an obscure term, but apparently it's a historical term. A Google search got an article by Ron Pattinson about the Double Brown Ale.

https://www.beeradvocate.com/articles/6307/double-brown-ale/

Forget about Northern and Southern Brown Ale. A much more fascinating type of Brown Ale lurks in the shadows of the past: Double Brown. Historically, Brown Ale wasn’t split between North and South, but between Single and Double. Think of them like Bitter and Best Bitter. I’d put the dividing line around 1042º Plato, though, just like with Bitters, it’s impossible to pin down an exact figure.

Here are some other brewers with more than one Brown Ale in their portfolio. All of these brewers were from the south of England, with the exception of Vaux, who was from the North. Yet all are brewing beers that resemble both “Southern” and “Northern” styles of Brown Ale.

After World War II, Brown Ale went out of fashion. Many were discontinued, leaving Michael Jackson with a few remnants to try to classify. It’s no surprise that, without historical perspective, he struggled. Of the few left, all the strong examples were brewed in the North.

Maybe Michael Jackson is the origin of the terms, but they're still commonly used that way nowadays (by Ron Pattinson too as, like in this article) and they're pretty useful, regardless of how accurate they are regionally.
 
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I'm not sure if the "Northern" and "Southern" distinction just has to do with where they originated or what the trend in those regions is or what, but you do have a good point. A lot of my favorite "Northern English" brown ales are actually from Southern England or the middle of England. There are a few that I really liked before I ever even considered homebrewing that fit into what I think of as "Northern English" brown ales that are from neither Northern nor Southern England, but are smackdab in the middle of the Midlands or the Northern part of Southern England. So at the very least I've long known that a brown ale made in the north or the south isn't necessarily going to fit into the regional category.
What, exactly, are you talking about? Is it about beers that call themselves "brown ales" or those that just happen to be brown? In my experience, there are very few brown ales. They are quite rare in the UK and always have been. I've been to more beer festivals than I care to remember and I don't recall even seeing a "brown ale" on the menu. I certainly don't recall seeing a beer classified as "brown ale" in a pub. I've had Newcastke and I've had Sam Smiths, both are pretty awful, in my opinion. So when you start saying "A lot of my favourite brown ales...." it would be helpful if you could name some names and give us some examples.
And, while I've heard these two main styles of "Northern English Brown Ale" and "Southern English Brown Ale" since before I started homebrewing and before I had ever heard of the BJCP, I had never heard of "Double Brown" before, so I thought maybe it was an obscure term, but apparently it's a historical term. A Google search got an article by Ron Pattinson about the Double Brown Ale.
Good. Forget about BJCP it has nothing to do with British beer. It's just a framework for American homebrew competitions and has no authority or relevance outside the States (even if it has much there).
 
What, exactly, are you talking about? Is it about beers that call themselves "brown ales" or those that just happen to be brown? In my experience, there are very few brown ales. They are quite rare in the UK and always have been. I've been to more beer festivals than I care to remember and I don't recall even seeing a "brown ale" on the menu. I certainly don't recall seeing a beer classified as "brown ale" in a pub. I've had Newcastke and I've had Sam Smiths, both are pretty awful, in my opinion. So when you start saying "A lot of my favourite brown ales...." it would be helpful if you could name some names and give us some examples.
I'm not sure if you were paying attention to the conversation before that point, but I was calling the style a "Northern English brown ale," which is generally considered higher in alcohol, higher in bitterness, darker in color, drier/less sweet, and so on than "Southern English brown ales." And he pointed out that you can find brown ales of both types both in the North and South of England, which I'm sure is true. So I was saying that I wasn't sure if the "Northern" or "Southern" name came from the styles originating there or being more prominent there (and when I looked up "Double Brown Ale" to see what it was, I found that Ron Pattinson article, which would suggest that brown ales fell out of fashion after WW2, and the remaining styles at the time tended to be divided like that between north and south, so that might be the origin).

In my experience as well, there are very few brown ales. I have almost never seen them on tap (Newcastle is one of the few ones I've seen on tap) and I also rarely see them in bottles. It's one of the reasons why I brew them myself. I also used to see them more often than I do now. I also don't think I've ever seen an American-style brown ale in Japan. I have seen some Japanese breweries do their takes on English brown ales, but even that's extremely rare. I think the last time I saw a commercial brown ale was at least a year or two ago.

Does that clarify what I was talking about? I could give examples of some of my favorite brown ales, but what would be the point? I'm not asking for advice on how to brew one (I dislike Newcastle like you, but I love Sam Smith's nut brown. The first English brown ale I probably ever had was Wychwood Hobgoblin, which I haven't had in forever, and I found out a week ago that they got bought out by some other place since I saw "Hobgoblin" on top and ordered it, but it wasn't a brown ale but an English IPA. It was decent, but not what I expected). I had mentioned what I was brewing and Northern Brewer kind of latched onto the "Northern English Brown Ale" style and even went into the argument that "English brown ale" isn't even an actual style. I'll definitely concede that the common terminology of "Northern English Brown Ale" and "Southern English Brown Ale" might not be geographically accurate, but it's in common enough usage that it's helpful for describing the style.
 
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Does that clarify what I was talking about? I could give examples of some of my favorite brown ales, but what would be the point?
No it doesn't. You use a lot of words to say very little, most of them repeated from previous posts.
I asked you specifically whether you were taking about beers which call themselves Brown Ale or whether you were talking about ales which are brown. My request that you name examples was to try to clarify that.
Historically, there have been different understandings of brown ale according to time and place: some brewers bottled up their mild and considered it brown ale, others thought brown ale was made with a kind of brown malt that we don't see nowadays in that it was diastatic, others again would just add caramel to their beer and flog it as brown ale.
Hobgoblin has never called itself a Brown Ale although it has gone through many transformations. In the late 80s it was 6+%, well hopped and a rich plum colour. When Glenny changed their name to Wychwood it went down to 5.2%, underhopped, but still a rich colour "Dark Ale" I think they called it, and this is the classic most of us knew before Wychwood sold out and it's beers were destroyed. What has remained is the brand, the beer disappeared long ago.
So we're just trying to get a handle on what it is you have in mind. Otherwise you might just as well talk about the general, broad category of, say lager.
 
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No it doesn't. You use a lot of words to say very little, most of them repeated from previous posts.
I asked you specifically whether you were taking about beers which call themselves Brown Ale or whether you were talking about ales which are brown. My request that you name examples was to try to clarify that.
Historically, there have been different understandings of brown ale according to time and place: some brewers bottled up their mild and considered it brown ale, others thought brown ale was made with a kind of brown malt that we don't see nowadays in that it was diastatic, others again would just add caramel to their beer and flog it as brown ale.
Hobgoblin has never called itself a Brown Ale although it has gone through many transformations. In the late 80s it was 6+%, well hopped and a rich plum colour. When Glenny changed their name to Wychwood it went down to 5.2%, underhopped, but still a rich colour "Dark Ale" I think they called it, and this is the classic most of us knew before Wychwood sold out and it's beers were destroyed. What has remained is the brand, the beer disappeared long ago.
So we're just trying to get a handle on what it is you have in mind. Otherwise you might just as well talk about the general, broad category of, say lager.
If it were just the color, many milds, porters, barleywines, and stouts would be "brown ales" just based on color alone. I'm definitely talking about the style of "Brown Ale" represented by Samuel Smith's Nut Brown Ale, Newcastle Brown Ale, the 5.2% ABV Wychwood Hobgoblin "classic" you're referring to, Rogue's Hazelnut Brown Ale (an American brewery, but not an American brown ale), Maplewood's Brownie Points, Double Maxim, Baird's Angry Boy Brown Ale (an example of an English brown ale made by a Japanese brewery that I've probably had the most over the past few years since they usually have it on tap, a rarity here in Japan), and on and on and on. I rarely see them on tap (other than at a cask ale place relatively near where I live or one of Baird's taprooms where they have their Angry Boy Brown Ale on tap), but I do buy bottles of brown ale whenever I find them. It's definitely a distinctive style, and I most often see the "Northern English" style and not the "Southern English" style (again, regardless of whether those regional distinctions are accurate or not).
 
From my experience of 57 years drinking British beer I agree the BJCP is worthless for our beers and I’d also never heard of them before I joined a brewing forum. However I do use them for non British beers that I’ve no real experience of, but after a few iterations I have learned what I like. The whole topic of brown ale is a question of upper case or lower case “B”. A lot of bitters and Pale Ales are brown but they are not “Brown Ale”. I used to drink Brown and Bitter in the 60’s because as a lad Bitter was too bitter for me. I have never bought a bottle of Brown Ale in my life from a shop. However I’m into the style based on Moose Drool an American Brown Ale. Since brewing that I’ve brewed Double Maxim Brown ale and Brickfields Brown Ale. The former is brewed in Northeast England and the later in London. Ignore the labels Northern and Southern as there some BJCP bollocks as Double Maxim is 4.8% and Brickfields 5.4%. Find a Brown Ale you like and make that.
 
From my experience of 57 years drinking British beer I agree the BJCP is worthless for our beers and I’d also never heard of them before I joined a brewing forum. However I do use them for non British beers that I’ve no real experience of, but after a few iterations I have learned what I like. The whole topic of brown ale is a question of upper case or lower case “B”. A lot of bitters and Pale Ales are brown but they are not “Brown Ale”. I used to drink Brown and Bitter in the 60’s because as a lad Bitter was too bitter for me. I have never bought a bottle of Brown Ale in my life from a shop. However I’m into the style based on Moose Drool an American Brown Ale. Since brewing that I’ve brewed Double Maxim Brown ale and Brickfields Brown Ale. The former is brewed in Northeast England and the later in London. Ignore the labels Northern and Southern as there some BJCP bollocks as Double Maxim is 4.8% and Brickfields 5.4%. Find a Brown Ale you like and make that.
A bit few and far between, though. Hardly a resurgent genre. I understand brown are is very popular in the states, though; although the only thing it has in common with English beers is the name. I think WD is getting a bit mixed up: nothing with vanilla in it is a trad brown ale and the Japanese offering looks very interesting if somewhat exotic. I'd forgotten about Double Maxim though.
Yeah, Brown and bitter, Boilermaker (mild and brown) and all sorts of stuff. I think the bottled brown was added to give the draught a bit of life and flavour.
 
A bit few and far between, though. Hardly a resurgent genre. I understand brown are is very popular in the states, though; although the only thing it has in common with English beers is the name. I think WD is getting a bit mixed up: nothing with vanilla in it is a trad brown ale and the Japanese offering looks very interesting if somewhat exotic. I'd forgotten about Double Maxim though.
Yeah, Brown and bitter, Boilermaker (mild and brown) and all sorts of stuff. I think the bottled brown was added to give the draught a bit of life and flavour.
Where did you or I say "traditional"? If you had said "give me examples of traditional English brown ales," I wouldn't have included any of the American or Japanese breweries and would have limited it to stuff like Newcastle, Samuel Smith, Double Maxim, and "classic" Hobgoblin. And yes, my current English brown ale fits into that "traditional" mode in regards to strength, color, grain bill, hops, and so on, but I've made English ales with non-traditional ingredients in the past (such as maple syrup). The Japanese and American offerings are, as far as I can recall, not American brown ales, which tend to use American hops. The Japanese one IS higher in alcohol and higher in bitterness than the vast majority of English brown ales, but it uses English ale yeast, English malts, and (as far as I can tell) English hops. I guess it can be complicated, especially going solely off memory, since an American brewery might make both an English brown ale and an American brown ale and they will have a lot of similarities, but I tried to just focus on the English style for breweries outside of England.

I had known of the Boilermaker as a "Brown and Mild," half draft mild and half bottled brown ale (both of which could be the same brown color but not the same style). What I've always heard as Boilermaker was a completely different cocktail.
 
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There are quite some folks here who have a lot more experience with British liquid strains for bitter than me.

Have you guys tried the other whc strains? I've got bond in the fridge which is supposed to be a real Whitbread derivate (which s04 is actually not supposed to be) and I'm reading about their Nottingham version.

I wonder if these are actually legit and not just another copy of a relatively boring dry yeast that kind of works but is outplayed by most of the liquid versions.
 
Interestingly, and regardless of what the self-styled purists may say, we had two main beers in my time and place: Mild and Bitter. Stout and Lager were "exotics" for the bourgeoisie. When the Bitter came in a bottle it was known as a Pale Ale, when the Mild was bottled it was Brown Ale.

To get back to the main thrust of this thread, my favourite recipe is for a mild. I had been making a house mild for some years and was perfectly satisfied with it until, one brew-day long ago, the hops I habitually used were suspect and I substituted them with the only other open packet, which was Harlequin. What a revelation! As the thread asks for a recipe, I'll post the recipe when I have access to my records.
 
Here it is:

Four Beers Mild

20 litres; OG 1040 (target FG 1010); 22 IBUs
Leave water at around 110 ppm -HCO3 add 1 tsp each CaSO4 and CaCl2 (my water is calcium deficient)
Mild Ale Malt (I used Crisp's Vienna) 2.56 Kg
Simpson's Double Roasted (or Special X, Special B, Special W) 320g
Flaked Wheat 320g
Chocolate Malt 160g
Long mash at 65C
FWH Harlequin to 22 IBUs (9.1% alpha, 24g assuming 20% util'n)
70 minute boil with ½ tab protofloc last 10 minutes.
Pitch with Wyeast 1728 Scottish Yeast (CML Beòir might be OK. I'm going to try MJ- M36 next brew)

Package,
Condition,
Drink.
Brew again.
 
There are quite some folks here who have a lot more experience with British liquid strains for bitter than me.

Have you guys tried the other whc strains? I've got bond in the fridge which is supposed to be a real Whitbread derivate (which s04 is actually not supposed to be) and I'm reading about their Nottingham version.

I wonder if these are actually legit and not just another copy of a relatively boring dry yeast that kind of works but is outplayed by most of the liquid versions.
I would bet a large amount of money on the fact that both are exact copies of the existing dry yeasts. That's what yeast manufacturers have done for ages, no reason to change that.
 
A bit few and far between, though. Hardly a resurgent genre. I understand brown are is very popular in the states, though; although the only thing it has in common with English beers is the name. I think WD is getting a bit mixed up: nothing with vanilla in it is a trad brown ale and the Japanese offering looks very interesting if somewhat exotic. I'd forgotten about Double Maxim though.
Yeah, Brown and bitter, Boilermaker (mild and brown) and all sorts of stuff. I think the bottled brown was added to give the draught a bit of life and flavour.
Browns are not very popular in the states. There are only a token few out there that serve as a flagship but other than those you don't find them very often. A lot of these are holdovers from the aughts when small breweries were called micro breweries.
 
I would bet a large amount of money on the fact that both are exact copies of the existing dry yeasts. That's what yeast manufacturers have done for ages, no reason to change that.
I've thought the same but I've read other statements from people who've tried the yeasts. At least, I've read that for bond.

Don't get me wrong, I'm not convinced either, that's why I'm asking for more opinions.
 
Browns are not very popular in the states. There are only a token few out there that serve as a flagship but other than those you don't find them very often. A lot of these are holdovers from the aughts when small breweries were called micro breweries.
Thank you. I had thought that the abundance of recipes indicated a popular style. I think I'd prefer an American Brown to an English one, though.
I've just remembered Mann's Brown, 2.8% abv, I think. Horrible stuff.

EDIT:
I see Mann's has just been delisted / retired. Good riddance.
 
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