Just have a look at it. It is almost burnt. There is almost no starch left and at the point where the starches get burned, the protein is long gone. 10% Wheat flour is a good head booster! But tbh, head is also what I struggle most with.
English Ales - What's your favorite recipe?
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Gottcha. I have my brown ale recipe posted on brewers friend @ Hungry Brown Dog for your interest. As I say, I have the flavor, color, and clear separation from the Porter/Stout style, so hopefully these minor tweaks will solidify the recipe. Going to place an order for my grain bill directly. Thanks for your interest.
What also helps is a hoch kurz mashing schedule + a mashout. The higher temperature steps really do wonders for foam. Unless they do not... sometimes they seem not to work
.... don't ask me.
Northern_Brewer
British - apparently some US company stole my name
Apropos of nothing, I was just looking at Yeastman and our old friend WLP037 is on release again, along with WLP022 Essex which feels like the first time in a long time.
However, WLP038 Manchester appears to have become a non-yeast, it's no longer even on the White Labs website, so last year's release may have been a last hurrah?
However, WLP038 Manchester appears to have become a non-yeast, it's no longer even on the White Labs website, so last year's release may have been a last hurrah?
Shenanigans
Well-Known Member
I'm going to be MIBA (missing in brewing action) for an while at the end of the month so want to get a few beers in before hand.
I plan on brewing the below but won't be able to package it until 5 to 6 weeks after it goes into the plastic bucket fermentor.
Do you think it will survive or would it be better to brew something stronger?
The strange hop weights are because it uses up exactly the 85g of Bramling X I have.
Also I'm using biscuit malt instead of amber malt as I have a lot of it left over but could still swap it out if it would be better.
I plan on brewing the below but won't be able to package it until 5 to 6 weeks after it goes into the plastic bucket fermentor.
Do you think it will survive or would it be better to brew something stronger?
The strange hop weights are because it uses up exactly the 85g of Bramling X I have.
Also I'm using biscuit malt instead of amber malt as I have a lot of it left over but could still swap it out if it would be better.
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![Craft A Brew - Safale S-04 Dry Yeast - Fermentis - English Ale Dry Yeast - For English and American Ales and Hard Apple Ciders - Ingredients for Home Brewing - Beer Making Supplies - [1 Pack]](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/41fVGNh6JfL._SL500_.jpg)
Are you located within the Arctic Circle?
Well close to it, about 70km south of it.
No, luckily enough they are not. However they are were our veggies, cabbage, carrots, onions etc live during summer.
Colindo
Well-Known Member
@Erik the Anglophile The furthest north I ever was was Norway in 2004. It took noticeably longer to get dark. But I never was anywhere near the region where it stays so bright near midnight. Impressive.
Going wildly off topic here, but since I know there are at least one other Swede in this thread, although a southerner, thought to throw up this video here.
2 guys from around where I live who make films on hunting and fishing.
Warning for extremely heavy northern accent, would be fun to see how much a southerner is able to understand...
2 guys from around where I live who make films on hunting and fishing.
Warning for extremely heavy northern accent, would be fun to see how much a southerner is able to understand...
Just got done bottling my Imperial Brown Stout. About 1 year 4 months in secondary and gone from 1.094 to 1.013 for about 11% abv with priming sugar included.
schmurf
Well-Known Member
@Erik the Anglophile not sure where in the north this is... it's a strong dialect but not impossible to follow. Maybe because I spent a year up north (or technically in the middle of Sweden...) when I was younger?
A little more on topic: I was in London last week and had some mixed experiences with my usual goto bitters, the first days almost all of them was in a pretty bad condition but luckily it improved later on. Guess it just shows one can't judge a beer based on just one or two samples.
A little more on topic: I was in London last week and had some mixed experiences with my usual goto bitters, the first days almost all of them was in a pretty bad condition but luckily it improved later on. Guess it just shows one can't judge a beer based on just one or two samples.
I took a gravity sample on my rebrew of my house AK just now, in wich I tried a Hoch-Kurz mash as mash schedules akin to those were popular back in the day.
It had gone from 1.045 to 1.006 for a whooping 86% AA!
I wanted a bit higher attenuation than last time but I did not expect this from Chevallier!
Weird since my ChevalierbPorter was brewed using the same schedule, same percentage (15%) sugar but only got 71% AA...
It had gone from 1.045 to 1.006 for a whooping 86% AA!
I wanted a bit higher attenuation than last time but I did not expect this from Chevallier!
Weird since my ChevalierbPorter was brewed using the same schedule, same percentage (15%) sugar but only got 71% AA...
Chevalier is a weird beast. I've had the most marvelous beer from it in a very short time and I've had unpleasant harshness that needed aging for almost half a year to disappear. I've also witnessed these strange attenuation discrepancies. I think this heirloom barley just differs heavily from vintage to vintage. I'm personally not using it again.
It was the same vintage for the Porter and the AK though...
I think the 15% sugar may be the culprit though, that in combination with a 62c first rest and a mix of AEB ay3 and Brewly English, as the AEB yeast is similair to Notty in how it just chews through sugars.
It's bit more "tame-able" with adjusted mash temps though.
Will try 10% sugar next time I brew it.
Looking at the period I've been drawing inspiration from(last/first decade of the 1800/1900's) AA in the high 70's/low 80's definitely happened.
I think the 15% sugar may be the culprit though, that in combination with a 62c first rest and a mix of AEB ay3 and Brewly English, as the AEB yeast is similair to Notty in how it just chews through sugars.
It's bit more "tame-able" with adjusted mash temps though.
Will try 10% sugar next time I brew it.
Looking at the period I've been drawing inspiration from(last/first decade of the 1800/1900's) AA in the high 70's/low 80's definitely happened.
Northern_Brewer
British - apparently some US company stole my name
It's also a reminder that the average quality of cask in London is quite possibly the worst of any major city in England, although there are some notable exceptions.
Go north young man...
conlun
Member
Going wildly off topic here, but since I know there are at least one other Swede in this thread, although a southerner, thought to throw up this video here.
2 guys from around where I live who make films on hunting and fishing.
Warning for extremely heavy northern accent, would be fun to see how much a southerner is able to understand...
Fellow Swede, and according to google 1582km away from Kalix (a good 18h and 4min drive), I can sure understand quite a bit (way more than if I where to drive 1582km south, that would land me in roughly a bit south of Milan, Italy.)
Brewed a batch of bitter yesterday, then I'll likely take a summer break from brewing, as the kitchen just gets too damn warm while boiling the wort...
Pitched yeast and put it in the FC around 17.30 and kept it 17c, then 5-6h later dialed up the cooling limit to let it freerise to 20.
1.041 somewhere between 35-40 IBU, not quite sure since I did a 10 gram each Fuggle/Celeia 15 min hopstand apart from the 20g/15 min fuggle boil addition.
Gonna add 10g Celeia when I close the fermenter aswell.
Pitched yeast and put it in the FC around 17.30 and kept it 17c, then 5-6h later dialed up the cooling limit to let it freerise to 20.
1.041 somewhere between 35-40 IBU, not quite sure since I did a 10 gram each Fuggle/Celeia 15 min hopstand apart from the 20g/15 min fuggle boil addition.
Gonna add 10g Celeia when I close the fermenter aswell.
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And do any of the Euro's in here have any recommendations for online shops who carry Chevalier malt by the sack and do EU shipping? My go to for it(humle.se) seems to have dropped it.
Still have plenty left but it'll run out someday and would be nice to know wether it's possible to get more then.
Still have plenty left but it'll run out someday and would be nice to know wether it's possible to get more then.
I've had the greatest experience with maltmiller.co.uk if that works out shipping-wise for you.
I'm going to try out rolling-beers.fr. I think they also stock chevallier.
Shenanigans
Well-Known Member
I've been away the last few weeks and thought the alerts for this thread stopped working but it looks like nobody posted anything in almost a month
Are we all OK?
Well, at least it means I don't have to wade my way through 100's of posts about sugar
A few months ago on here I was asking about Fawcetts Mild Ale malt and any possible recipes.
I got some replies but mostly just to replace Marris Otter with it as the base malt.
I saw that the Meantime brewery will be closed in Greenwich and it reminded my that one of the favourite beers I've every brewed was my attempt at the Can You Brew It (CYBI) clone recipe for the Meantime London Porter.
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/threads/can-you-brew-it-recipe-for-meantime-porter.239374/
I used WLP007 instead of Nottingham and slightly different malts but it turned out great.
Would it be a good idea to try swapping the MO out with the Mild Ale malt, their colours are very similar?
Are we all OK?
Well, at least it means I don't have to wade my way through 100's of posts about sugar
A few months ago on here I was asking about Fawcetts Mild Ale malt and any possible recipes.
I got some replies but mostly just to replace Marris Otter with it as the base malt.
I saw that the Meantime brewery will be closed in Greenwich and it reminded my that one of the favourite beers I've every brewed was my attempt at the Can You Brew It (CYBI) clone recipe for the Meantime London Porter.
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/threads/can-you-brew-it-recipe-for-meantime-porter.239374/
I used WLP007 instead of Nottingham and slightly different malts but it turned out great.
Would it be a good idea to try swapping the MO out with the Mild Ale malt, their colours are very similar?
I think at 50 EBC the difference you're going to see in colour is going to be nil. Mild ale malt is only marginally darker than standard MO. At less than 50% of the gain bill, I'm not sure you'd notice any perceptible difference in flavour either- but I'd be interested to see. You could also try something like Warminster Maltings Gold at 72% of the grain bill and get rid of the Munich in its entirety.
I have a question as well - co yeast pitching. My latest ale (ESB inspired) used Wyeast 1968. I had a 1L starter to be sure it was a good yeast pack and it was. I pitched at about 65F but forgot to turn on my cooling and after a day or so it got into the low 70's F. This wasn't a huge deal, but I turned on the cooling and brought it back down to about 68 F. This might have made it to decide to quite fermenting? I had continued activity, things seemed normal, and fermentation mostly quit after about 3 days and the yeast settled. But I ended up with a final gravity of about 1.026, pretty high (I started around 1.055 with a little more than an hour mashing at 152F).
I'm considering, in the future, pitching perhaps some Nottingham dry or something similar maybe a day or two into fermentation. So that I can somewhat ensure I end up closer to 1.016 or so, in case the 1968 decides to quit early. I love the flavor of it but don't love its varying and consistently somewhat higher final gravity. Has anyone else done this co-pitch, or does it seem like a dumb idea?
I'm considering, in the future, pitching perhaps some Nottingham dry or something similar maybe a day or two into fermentation. So that I can somewhat ensure I end up closer to 1.016 or so, in case the 1968 decides to quit early. I love the flavor of it but don't love its varying and consistently somewhat higher final gravity. Has anyone else done this co-pitch, or does it seem like a dumb idea?
Shenanigans
Well-Known Member
Well I have 25Kg of Mild Ale Malt I want to use up so I guess I'll try it out.
I only have time to brew on the weekends and in Summer it's very difficult to fit in a brew day as the other half always had some outdoor stuff planned.
Here's hoping for a few rainy weekends
If not then it will be Autum/Winter but I'll report back.
Mild malt - I don't think you'll notice much in that grain bill. Lots of stuff going on and the difference in mild and pale ale malts isn't very big. In SMASH bitters it was clear. You might expect a slightly higher FG.
1968 - It's a high flocculation strain. Rousing helps keep it active. The big cool might have encouraged it to flocc early.
1968 - It's a high flocculation strain. Rousing helps keep it active. The big cool might have encouraged it to flocc early.
Shenanigans
Well-Known Member
That yeast, especially the White Labs version (WLP002) is know to do things like that.
Here for example (old but useful information) https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/12867/why-does-wlp002-sometimes-attenuate-more
I had bottle bombs with it in the past. Thought it was finished at around 75% attenuation only for it to wake up a few weeks later and ferment further in the bottle. I had even measured it 3 days in a row before bottling to make sure there was no change in gravity.
I used it a few times since but always roused the yeast by rocking the fermentor and raised the temperature at the end to make sure it was done.
Did you already package it?
Copitching is not a crazy idea if you have a yeast which you like the flavour of but want it a bit drier. (Windsor and Nottingham for example)
However for WLP002 I think it will attenuate enough if you treat it right.
You could also add some form of sugar to the grain bill to get a few more points out of it or to wake it up at the end.
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Yep, it's in the keg, has been for a few weeks now. It tastes fine but definitely is a little sweet and has too much body, both completely expected. I've thought about pitching a little more yeast into it, and can warm it back up to room temp for that, but I'm not sure it's worth it for the ~ 2 gallons I have left.
Normally I'd pitch in the upper 60's F and hold it there, then take it to 70 maybe 72 F after 3-4 days. I sometimes grab the fermenter and give it as much shake as I can manage. I usually run a starter too. Other than letting it get a bit warm and then cool it down this time, I seem to have a pretty good and consistent routine and it normally works.
I may consider a co-pitch a few days in, and hope there's something left for it to ferment and that the 1968 hasn't gone too far already. I do use about 10% invert but it goes in for the boil. That would be interesting to hold back a little until fermentation, hmm. Or even something silly like tossing in a cup of sugar.
Ugh I have to start thinking about owning a Tilt. I so rarely have an issue I've never felt the need for one.
Normally I'd pitch in the upper 60's F and hold it there, then take it to 70 maybe 72 F after 3-4 days. I sometimes grab the fermenter and give it as much shake as I can manage. I usually run a starter too. Other than letting it get a bit warm and then cool it down this time, I seem to have a pretty good and consistent routine and it normally works.
I may consider a co-pitch a few days in, and hope there's something left for it to ferment and that the 1968 hasn't gone too far already. I do use about 10% invert but it goes in for the boil. That would be interesting to hold back a little until fermentation, hmm. Or even something silly like tossing in a cup of sugar.
Ugh I have to start thinking about owning a Tilt. I so rarely have an issue I've never felt the need for one.
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