Electric Question

Yakima 728
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OhioEd,
Thanks for answering my questions. I have a couple more.

1) How did you attach the BCS-460 to your DIN rail?

2) Where did you get the white 110vac female DIN rail mounted receptacle?



Thanks,
Sco999
 
sco999 said:
OhioEd,
Thanks for answering my questions. I have a couple more.

1) How did you attach the BCS-460 to your DIN rail?
I took the front cover off the BCS, drilled a hole in it and screwed it to a DIN mount clip.

2) Where did you get the white 110vac female DIN rail mounted receptacle?
Ha... well, it is actually just a cheap 2 prong cord receptacle that I tywrap'ed to a DIN mount clip. I bought a DIN mount recptacle from AutomationDirect, but it just took up too much space so I removed it.

Thanks,
Sco999
Click to expand...

You're welcome...

Ed
 
Hey Ed, haven't been around much lately. Wanted to give some kudos and say the control panel looks beautiful. Good job bud.
 
CodeRage said:
Hey Ed, haven't been around much lately. Wanted to give some kudos and say the control panel looks beautiful. Good job bud.
Click to expand...

Thank you!

I feel like you are probably entitled to at least half of my panel (but don't come looking to collect).

Your absence hasn't gone unnoticed, hopefully all is good with you.

I saw in another thread you are about to go back to work on your rig... I can hardly wait to see what you end up with.

Ed
 
Could someone take a look at this please? I currently have a Gas Rig that runs off of Love controllers. After a year of having most of my stuff laying around I'm finally getting back to the build. Now i'm interested in having the option of running the rig with the PID controller OR BCS depending on what/where i'm brewing. Can someone take a look at my first two circuits and see if i'm on the right track? Or maybe offer up some suggestions if I should go a different route. Thanks!
 
Hah! HOA switches, awesome.


Is the love supposed to be a backup for the BCS automatic control? If so I would put a selector switch between the BCS and PID to gate control to the auto side of the HOA. Hand would strictly be a manual way of turning the element off and on.
There isnt anything wrong with doing the way you've designed it and will work just as well.

The only concern I would have is that those sparkers play hell on some controllers, including the BCS. I haven't heard of a solution or a successful implementation yet. Well, without having to move the controller clear across the room. RonRock is the last person I talked to about this and there was no solution that I know of. You may want to follow up with him and see if he found something.

good luck!
 
Thanks for the reply!
My intent is to have the panel automated even on "manual" mode. When the switch is in the Hand position I want the Love controllers to handle the automation. This will be for times when i'm at a club event or don't have my laptop near by and want to brew soley via the control panel. Then in the "Auto" mode I want the BCS to run the system so I can play with the automation program or bang switches from my iphone :).

I am a bit concerend with the comment you made about the spark ignition playing hell with the controller, what is the main issue people seem to be having? I'll have to do some searching and see what the problem is. If it helps, I plan on having the wires come off the SSR and actually go to another box under the stand that will house the spark ignition modules because there is a limit on how far from the spark ignition box the pilot's can be. So if the concern is having the ignition modules IN the control panel mine should be mounted in a box under the stand roughly 4 or 5 feet from the main panel.
 
Went back thru this build again. WOW! I followed as it unfolded but I am even more impressed as I look back at it. The DIN rail mounted components really kept it very neat.
Top shelf!
 
stevehaun said:
Went back thru this build again. WOW! I followed as it unfolded but I am even more impressed as I look back at it. The DIN rail mounted components really kept it very neat.
Top shelf!
Click to expand...

Thank you.

A bunch of folks contributed and I'm pretty happy with how it turned out.

Ed
 
Hey Ed-

Building my controller box now....you turned me onto the brushed stainless wall plates! I bought some at lowes for each 3W 30A 240 plug, but the receptacle won't fit. Where'd you get yours?
 
ScubaSteve said:
Hey Ed-

Building my controller box now....you turned me onto the brushed stainless wall plates! I bought some at lowes for each 3W 30A 240 plug, but the receptacle won't fit. Where'd you get yours?
Click to expand...

They either came from HomeDepot or Lowes, not sure which.
So, it's just the 30a that are a problem?

BTW.. My receptacles are twistloc.


Ed
 
Yeah, just had one of those unforseen "oh crap" moments while building, the standard 3 wire dryer receptacle doesn't fit through the plate. Too big. Thanks for the feedback!

<....Quietly tiptoes out of the thread and gently shuts the door......>
 
ScubaSteve said:
Yeah, just had one of those unforseen "oh crap" moments while building, the standard 3 wire dryer receptacle doesn't fit through the plate. Too big. Thanks for the feedback!

<....Quietly tiptoes out of the thread and gently shuts the door......>
Click to expand...

I have to believe the SS covers can be found. I guess I was just lucky, I never would have thought of it being a problem to find them.

Good Luck.

Ed
 
Ed:
After using your system a while, are you still happy with the automation direct switches? It looks like you are using the plastic, LED illuminated ones.
 
stevehaun said:
Ed:
After using your system a while, are you still happy with the automation direct switches? It looks like you are using the plastic, LED illuminated ones.
Click to expand...

They are indeed plastic LED switches from AutomationDirect.

I've had zero issues with them.

Ed
 
I just edited the first post in this thread and added links to the latest logical and wiring diagrams.

There might be minor adjustments, but this is the version I built the panel from.
 
I've been studying the latest schematic and isn't there a concern with the dual fuse setup (@240V) if one fuse blows and the other leg remains hot? In the thirty pages or so, I must have missed the discussion.
 
vballdrummer said:
I've been studying the latest schematic and isn't there a concern with the dual fuse setup (@240V) if one fuse blows and the other leg remains hot? In the thirty pages or so, I must have missed the discussion.
Click to expand...

All the 240v breakers are double pole... meaning they cut both legs when tripped.

Ed
 
What I expected for actual implementation ... ah I see the confusion, I was looking at the logic diagram which doesn't indicate the double pole as noted on the schematic.
 
Ohio-Ed,
What size wires are the blue, red, and purple wires that are sending signals between the ssr's and the switches/bcs?

Thanks
 
Ohio-Ed ... how did fasten the power cord to your box? It looks like a compression fitting of some sort?
 
JohnnyGunn said:
Ohio_Ed....quick question: what is the amperage of the SSR's you used?
Click to expand...

40 amp for the heating elements, 25 amp for the pumps.

25 amps is way overkill for the pumps. I originally found some used 5amp SSRs on ebay that I used for prototyping that worked fine. I liked the consistency in size & mounting of the 25's so I changed them out in the final build.
 
Ohio-Ed said:
40 amp for the heating elements, 25 amp for the pumps.

25 amps is way overkill for the pumps. I originally found some used 5amp SSRs on ebay that I used for prototyping that worked fine. I liked the consistency in size & mounting of the 25's so I changed them out in the final build.
Click to expand...


Thanks Ed!
 
Ed,

Couple of questions for you.

1) Looking at Automation Direct I see multiple curve breakers, Which Curve breakers are you using for the following on your diagram?
a) Fast acting (B, C, D)?
b) Delay (B, C, D)?

Single Pole
Double Pole

2) Is this the right switch for the 3 position?

3) Is this the right button for the Emergency stop?

4) Is this the right Push Button for the start?

I'll still be running gas for my boil kettle so things wil be a little different.

Awesome build.

Thanks,
Jaw
 
jawbox said:
Ed,

Couple of questions for you.

1) Looking at Automation Direct I see multiple curve breakers, Which Curve breakers are you using for the following on your diagram?
a) Fast acting (B, C, D)?
b) Delay (B, C, D)?

Single Pole
Double Pole

2) Is this the right switch for the 3 position?

3) Is this the right button for the Emergency stop?

4) Is this the right Push Button for the start?

I'll still be running gas for my boil kettle so things wil be a little different.

Awesome build.

Thanks,
Jaw
Click to expand...

Jaw,

The breakers I got are all C curve except the 30amp double pole which are B curve. The reason was not by choice... it was the only DIN mount breakers they had at the time I placed my order. I would have preferred to have B Curve for the smaller breaker that the BCS is on but the smallest B Curve they have is 6 amp. I haven't had any false trips or melted any components, but maybe I'm just lucky ;)

I used a GCX1131 (metal) for the E-Stop, but the one you linked (Plastic) should work fine.

The other switches you linked are the same ones I used (I used both Yellow and Blue 3px switches).

Thanks for the complement.

Let me know if there is anything I can help with.

Ed
 
Ohio-Ed said:
They are indeed plastic LED switches from AutomationDirect.

I've had zero issues with them.

Ed
Click to expand...


Ed-
If you don't have a load connected the LEDs are on all the time... I know that this happens with SSR's, somehow I just forgot about it with the H-O-A switches. I have the 120V LED bulbs currently, do you happen to know if I swap out to incandescent if that will be enough of a load on the SSR output to not light the bulb? Figured maybe you could save me from ordering something that did not work ;-)
 
clearwaterbrewer said:
Ed-
If you don't have a load connected the LEDs are on all the time... I know that this happens with SSR's, somehow I just forgot about it with the H-O-A switches. I have the 120V LED bulbs currently, do you happen to know if I swap out to incandescent if that will be enough of a load on the SSR output to not light the bulb? Figured maybe you could save me from ordering something that did not work ;-)
Click to expand...

As long as I have a load plugged in, the LED's do not illuminate. It has been handy to let me know when I forgot to plug the RIMs heater in ;)
I don't know if incandescents would be enough of a load or not. I have mine wired to illuminate only when the control calls for heat so they end up flashing when the temp gets close. I'm not sure how long an incandescent would last the way I'm using them.

Ed
 
would this one work?

Looks like i would be real close to pulling 40A so a little nervous about the 40A form auber.
 
jawbox said:
would this one work?

Looks like i would be real close to pulling 40A so a little nervous about the 40A form auber.
Click to expand...

Looks like that should work. The description on that site is pretty skimpy.
The 40amp Auber contactor is actually rated at 50 amp resistive load. The majority of the load from most of our rigs is resistive (the heating elements).

Ed
 
On their pic, looks like Locked Rotor Amps are 242, you will be fine with it for our very light duty home-brewing use... even at 40A+..

Picture what a contactor in a home AC unit goes through in the middle of summer, use and temperature wise... your contactor will probably not see as much use in it's lifetime as that one will in just one week...
 

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