AlkiBrewing
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Great. Thanks for the quick reply Alien.
ebay aquarium temp controller build
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raouliii
Well-Known Member
Not faulty. Just not a STC1000. You have a single stage controller that is capable of controlling cooling or heating but not both at the same time.
JuanMoore
Getting the banned back together
I have a few wiring diagrams for the other single stage model, but I can't find the one I made for that model. Here's a crude one I found when doing a quick search here on HBT. You'll connect the temp probe to 3&4, and nothing to terminal 5. Hope that helps.
This thread has been great and motivation for me to build my own temperature controller. I used the STC-1000 and have both heating and cooling. For heat I am using an old hair dryer instead of a light bulb or ceramic reptile heaters some have used. We had it on hand in the house and, with others incorporating blower fans in addition to their heat, I'm getting both in one small package.
Our weather turned very cold and the highs will be maybe 15 F and lows below 0 F until Monday when the forecast predicts hings in the mid 20's. With my kegerator in the garage I was motivated to get this project done. It's all working perfectly! Thanks again for the thread and all of the advice - all of the almost 400 pages!!!
Our weather turned very cold and the highs will be maybe 15 F and lows below 0 F until Monday when the forecast predicts hings in the mid 20's. With my kegerator in the garage I was motivated to get this project done. It's all working perfectly! Thanks again for the thread and all of the advice - all of the almost 400 pages!!!
That diagram worked perfect. So i have the whole thing wired up but i'm still a little confused about the settings… This is what I have so far. Actual temp set to 40 HC-00 (which from what i've read on HBT is cooling) D-3 CA-00 ( I haven't tested to accuracy of the probe yet) PT-10 What is confusing is the LS and HS LS started at -58 and HS at 19.4 the HS setting wont go higher than 19.4 so now i'm wondering if this is in relation to the desired temp setting (40) meaning that the controller will allow 40+19.4. Now i'm thinking these settings basically restrict the range of available temperatures to choose from? Wish I had the english instructions...I have a few wiring diagrams for the other single stage model, but I can't find the one I made for that model. Here's a crude one I found when doing a quick search here on HBT. You'll connect the temp probe to 3&4, and nothing to terminal 5. Hope that helps.
Disregard: I was misreading 194 f for 19.4 I now understand that it comes from the factory with the HS and LS set to their respective extremes. The more I futz around with things the more I learn!
cincybrewer
Well-Known Member
Here are my pics for my heating source. The only thing left is to switch out the outlet on my temp controller to GFCI.
I'm wondering whether it would make sense to poke a bunch of tiny holes to let some of the heat escape the paint can?
I'm wondering whether it would make sense to poke a bunch of tiny holes to let some of the heat escape the paint can?
Danno81
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U don't want too much light in your ferm-chamber the threads I have seen about the paint can heater recommend only one small hole near the bottom so you know it's on. The can should produce enough heat by its self as long as you use a regular light bulb. Remember the bight the watt bulb the more heat
I haven't read all 300 pages of this thread but I just wanted the quick answer. What model refrigerators are most commonly used for lagering? Looking at making a purchase soon and I just want to make sure carboys will fit and the STC-1000 will be compatible.
cincybrewer
Well-Known Member
I could totally be wrong but I would think a bunch of tiny holes in the paint can would provide minimal light and wouldn't be enough to affect the fermentation (I ferment primarily in buckets). Add in the fact that the light only comes on when heating and it'd be even less.
The can definitely produces enough heat. I think I tested mine with a 60w bulb and it got too hot too touch, but that is what I'm worried about. I don't think a paint can and the light fixture is designed for that much heat so I figured if I poke some tiny holes it would allow some of the heat to escape and at the same time warm up the fermentation to the desired temps quicker.
Thoughts?
The biggest danger of excessive heat in the can is melting of the wires' insulation. Maybe use a smaller bulb, 20 or 40 watts perhaps?
Regarding light emissions, I'm not sure which wavelength skunks the hops. IIRC, it needs to be somewhere in the blue or UV range, where it splits off 3-methyl but-2-ene-1-thiol (MBT) from the Isohumulone molecule, right below the double oxygen bond (Dr. Roger Barth--"The Science of Beer Flavor," NHC 2013). MBT is responsible for the skunk flavor/aroma.
I would use one of those "black radiators" used for reptiles. They are ceramic, screw into a regular light socket and only generate heat, no light.
I use a small $11 ceramic heater with a fan from Walmart. It has overheat protection will not run if it falls over. I tried the paint can idea and it did work but even with a 40watt bulb it was too hot for my taste. Any other heater will work great I just was not a fan of the paint can. I hope this helps.
loudmouthbrewer
Member
I think we need to start a H.B.T.A. (HomeBrewTalk Anonymous) group as I can't... stop... researching....reading....getting ideas....
Like many- this thread helped give me the courage to try this project out for myself. And I'm happy to report my first Lager is currently bubbling away at 50F
Also wanted to chime in with a "lessons learned" regarding securing the receptacle to the housing of the project box. I found the standard receptacle screws weren't holding under the pressure of plugging/unplugging power cords. A quick fix was to use #6 flat washers & #6-32 hex nuts to keep the receptacle mounted in its proper place. Pictures are often better than words:
#6-32 Hex Nuts & #6 Washers Used
Installed in project box
-and full right up for anyone interested.
Fermentation chamber build pics to follow.
-Cheers :rockin:
Like many- this thread helped give me the courage to try this project out for myself. And I'm happy to report my first Lager is currently bubbling away at 50F
Also wanted to chime in with a "lessons learned" regarding securing the receptacle to the housing of the project box. I found the standard receptacle screws weren't holding under the pressure of plugging/unplugging power cords. A quick fix was to use #6 flat washers & #6-32 hex nuts to keep the receptacle mounted in its proper place. Pictures are often better than words:
#6-32 Hex Nuts & #6 Washers Used
Installed in project box
-and full right up for anyone interested.
Fermentation chamber build pics to follow.
-Cheers :rockin:
Justdrumin
Well-Known Member
+1 It's as much of an addiction as actually brewing!!! The SWMBO absolutely hates it! She doesn't understand how I can spend so much time on HBT looking at "beer stuff".
brewinginnc
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Mine calls it beer porn.
Just built this and love that it was so simple.
Just built this and love that it was so simple.
JuanMoore
Getting the banned back together
EricDP said:Has anybody tried the XH-W1208 temparture controller? dx.com is selling them for $15 (shipping included), and it seems to have roughly equivalent specs to the STC-1000. Looks similar too - probably just a knock-off.
It's a single stage controller, so it can only control heat or cooling, not both at the same time. I have 3 very similar looking single stage controllers that read in Fahrenheit. They control my keezer and my HERMS where there's no need for dual stage. For my ferm chamber where I need dual stage control, I use the STC-1000.
I tried searching first I promise, but I couldn't quite find the answer. I have a single STC-like temp controller that I want to wire up with one outlet for cooling and the other outlet always on (for a keezer fan). Does anyone know where I could find a wiring diagram that'll allow me to accomplish this? Thanks!
itsme_timd
Well-Known Member
If you want one outlet as always on just bypass the STC-1000 with that outlet and wire it direct to the power.
I went to Walmart and found that they had grounded electrical receptecals for only $0.67 each whereas the ge branded ones were $3-$3.50 each. Does anyone think there's a difference in using the $0.67 ones? They're rated 125V/15A
Be sure to break that bridge between the 2 outlet halves on the brass (live) side, or it will always be ON.
They are pretty much the same. What do you think contractors buy? The $3 GE or the $.37 ones that come in boxes of 100+?
Now there could be small differences as in how they are constructed and will hold up over time, the number of insertions, the tightness of the spades etc. but it is doubtful you would notice it.
Now I splurged and bought the gray Leviton Decora ones for $2.50, since they look really good in a black box. I saw a post here where the guy used those. These modern style outlets have the square profile which is way easier to cut a hole for than the old fashioned duplex semi-round ones. They have them at Home Depot/Lowe's/Electrical supply places. Hot glue will secure them inside the box.
Speaking of... You can buy $25 outlets too. They are "medical grade" and very popular among audiophiles. The same people that will spend $500-$5000 on a pair of cables, uh sorry, interconnects. Don't forget they need serious "burn-in time" to sound better.
I'm not aware of beer drinkers that have gone into extremes like that yet, but I'm sure it's coming slowly...
Has anybody tried the XH-W1208 temparture controller? dx.com is selling them for $15 (shipping included), and it seems to have roughly equivalent specs to the STC-1000. Looks similar too - probably just a knock-off.
They are a different kind. They look similar but are only single channel, heating OR cooling, run on 220V AC or 12V DC.
Thanks for your input. I guess I'll be keeping the cheap ones.
Not sure if this has been posted yet, but the last link I saw was Ebay. Amazon has it and is available with amazon prime, 2 day shipping for 17.75 shipped to your door!
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B008KVCPH2/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B008KVCPH2/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
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I wired my STC -1000 up over the weekend. Everything was correct, double checked the schematics and Youtube vidoes...the plug doesnt work!!
Is my STC DOA and not sending power to the plug or am I missing something? The light was blinking for the cooling, but no power at the outlet.
Is my STC DOA and not sending power to the plug or am I missing something? The light was blinking for the cooling, but no power at the outlet.
ilikeguns
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I'm not looking at mine right now but there is a time delay that you set before the cooling kicks on. mine is set for 5-10 minutes so the compressor on my fridge doesn't kick on too often. When i first power it on, it waits for that delay, then starts the cooling.
I see most people are using an outlet box in the middle.
Is there any reason you couldn't take a 14 gauge extension cord, snip (hot and neutral) it in the middle, put the side coming from the wall outlet into the STC1000 power input, and the other side on the STC1000 power output and plug the freezer into that cord? Then I could keep the cord grounded by letting that flow all the way through to the the freezer plug?
I'm only using mine to control temp in my chest freezer/keezer. So I only need the cooling outlet.
Is there any reason you couldn't take a 14 gauge extension cord, snip (hot and neutral) it in the middle, put the side coming from the wall outlet into the STC1000 power input, and the other side on the STC1000 power output and plug the freezer into that cord? Then I could keep the cord grounded by letting that flow all the way through to the the freezer plug?
I'm only using mine to control temp in my chest freezer/keezer. So I only need the cooling outlet.
raouliii
Well-Known Member
You can certainly install the controller in the middle of an extension cord. Although the wiring is little more involved than what you have stated. In particular, the neutral does not get switched, or provided, by the controller. The controller simply has an internal switch for the hot.
Connections to the controller for cool only would be:
Hot In to 1
Neutral In to 2
Jumper from 1 to 7
Hot Out to 8
Neutral Out to 2
It's best to enclose the controller in a plastic or metal enclosure. If metal, the enclosure should be grounded. A wood enclosure is not the best idea.
tgmartin000
Well-Known Member
Quick question - I got my controller wired up and installed in a project box. However, we broke both tabs off the outlet, so just used a piece of bare copper wire to jump one side of the outlet. Having little wiring experience, is this OK? Does it prevent a hazard or anything?
Thanks.
Thanks.
