ebay aquarium temp controller build

[bovineblitz]

and the most important question. how did you guys make those awesome temperature chart stickers for the top of the unit?

thanks guys in advance

cheers

Super simple. Print it out and use clear tape over the whole thing.

 

[digitaltree515]

What's the best way you guys have found to run the probe and/or power wire to a heating element into the ferm chamber without losing a good seal on the door? I'm using an upright freezer and if I run it through the door seam without making some sort of cut the warmer air from outside gets in and I get a bunch of condensation everywhere.

 

[DeNomad]

Check to see if you have a drainage plug. Not sure if freezers have them but it works great for running probes/wires in a fridge.

 

[Tandor]

Just finished mine today. Testing it now and going to give it real use hopefully this weekend.

 

[jamnw]

I just got my controllers today. Instructions say: "heater/cooler must have own external AC connection, connected to controller for on/off control purpose"
????
Are these just designed to switch an external relay?
Controller is rated for 10 amps.

 

[jubelale]

It means the switched ports on the controller must be powered. The unit does not pass the power from the first ports that power the unit to the heat and cool ports. You don't need external relays. You just use the heat and cool ports as 10 amp relays.

 

[jamnw]

I see now. Just saw the schematic on here. I just ASSumed the unit passed power and switched the relays.

 

[milldoggy]

Here is mine, finished in 2 to 3 hours. I used a metal box extender under the plastic to secure and attach the plugs to the case. Worked great. Also wired lights inline with the heat and cool plugs. I used an old pc plug for power input, made a nice connector. I also used the crimp connectors, inside is nice and clean.

 

[milldoggy]

Here is a pic of the extender box and the wiring.

 

[extra_medium]

the box is great anf all, but how can i use this to replace a bad thermostat in the freezer?

SALUTE!
~XM~

 

[gclunde]

From another thread and my completed project using an STC-1000 (eBay aquarium) temp controller to construct a keezer/fermentation vessel using a chest freezer...

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/jacks-chest-freezer-fermentation-chamber-231979/index2.html

Well...inspired by this project and taking into account the questions/suggestions/recommendations from posters on this thread, attached are some pictures of my project (5.1 cu ft GE freezer)

The only changes made to Jack's original design:

1) Rather than mount an outlet on the back to control 'hot and cold', I ran a pigtail out the back of the collar with a female cord adapter, allowing the the freezer to be plugged directly into it (eliminating a little additional wiring).

2) Rather than using a space heater AND taking into account all of the different suggestions made on this thread, I elected to use an outdoor outlet box with an added light attachment; a 25W red light bulb in the socket works perfectly for increasing temperatures.

3) To address the 'bending over' issues, I built a small platform that allows me to set all carboys at a height level with the compressor hump. I no longer have to reach down to get carboys in and out. As an added bonus, it also allows me to put two (2) 5-gallon carboys in a 5.1 cu ft freezer (which was my real goal).

4) My OCD kicked in (LOL)...and having some some radiant heat barrier left over from a spring time project, I wrapped the insulating foam lining the 'collar' to give it more of a finished look as well as better insulating properties. I also lined the inside top of the freezer lid to give me additional support in holding the lid in place (since I taped the inside corners with silver tape in addition to using 2-sided tape between the collar and the lid seal).

5) I used an inexpensive aquarium thermostat which ran me about $25 on eBay vice the more expensive ones mentioned in this thread. Although it doesn't have as many 'bells and whistles' as the more expensive controllers, I've found that controlling the temperature to within +/- 1 degree F requires the freezer's compressor to run for about 6-7 minutes, followed by about 6-7 minutes of heat from the 25W bulb (rewarm due to the temperature overshoot). Once the temperature reaches the desired setting, it takes about another 90 minutes before the cycle repeats.

6) Still to be completed...adding some casters to roll this bad boy around...but that's a quick add-on.

I wanted to say thanks to Jack for providing pics and guidance on his project...his original posting was an inspiration to get going on this project and create something that looks nice (and can easily sit in my home for all to see). I also wanted to thank everyone else for the constructive comments and additional suggestions...this is a great site with a wealth of information.

 

[drocu]

I wish I had looked at some more pics before starting. I just finished mine with the controller on the large panel side of the project box (like android did) and it barely closes. If I could do it again, I'd put it on the edge like milldoggy and others did.

Regardless, it works great. Thanks for a great write up, android. I had no problems finding the items at HD and Radioshack.

 

[Bob_T]

Thanks for all this...
I am only on my third brew, but swamp cooling, freezing water bottles and checking temps all the time gets old fast.
So I ordered one and got it last week. Built it Friday and scored a $75 GE, 7 cubic foot freezer off CL yesterday...
$20 for the controller, $7 for the box, wire, outlet, cover, etc., was just stuff I had laying around..so just over $100 for the whole set up.
I love it when a plan comes together....

I wish I had looked at some more pics before starting. I just finished mine with the controller on the large panel side of the project box (like android did) and it barely closes. If I could do it again, I'd put it on the edge like milldoggy and others did.

If you leave the plastic cover off the back of the controller and form the wires tight, it works well in the 3" deep Radio Shack box.
You really don't need that shield since the unit is fully enclosed.

I think putting it all in the front cover works very nicely for wall mounting the unit...

However, I do wish I had gone out and bought a black outlet and cover...

 

[JuanMoore]

However, I do wish I had gone out and bought a black outlet and cover...

That's a quick and easy fix. FWIW my home depot had gray outlets and covers that are a pretty close match to the gray frame on the controller, and that way you can still use a sharpie and the marks will show up.

 

[MrMeans]

So I decided to start this project. I ordered a temp controller and it is in transit as I type. The only problem is that in my infinite wisdom I got a 220v controller. I know as much about electricity as I do about brain surgery so I am asking this; Instead sending it back and further delaying my project is there anything I can add to the wiring to convert the unit from 220v to 120v?

 

[Wild Duk]

I'm looking on cl now for a chest freezer. I found this thread and will build that temp. controller... So, is there no modification required to the wiring of the chest freezer??? The temp controler basically just turns the freezer on and off as required to keep the temp....

Also, does anyone have a direct link to the temp controler...

Thx

 

[Bob_T]

So I decided to start this project. I ordered a temp controller and it is in transit as I type. The only problem is that in my infinite wisdom I got a 220v controller. I know as much about electricity as I do about brain surgery so I am asking this; Instead sending it back and further delaying my project is there anything I can add to the wiring to convert the unit from 220v to 120v?

I don't think these controllers are convertible...

I'm looking on cl now for a chest freezer. I found this thread and will build that temp. controller... So, is there no modification required to the wiring of the chest freezer??? The temp controler basically just turns the freezer on and off as required to keep the temp....

You are correct. You may need a heat source if you have the freezer in a cool location, I know I do.

Also, does anyone have a direct link to the temp controler...

This is the seller I got mine from. Received it in about a week. $20 w/free shipping.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/110V-temperature-controller-STC-1000-sensor-30-OFF-/150667781855?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item23147fe6df

 

[jamnw]

Duk: the one I bought from eBay was listed as 220, but they ship based on voltage used in your country. You may end up with a 110v model.

 

[Wild Duk]

Thanks....

How about the compressor start relay.....Is this built into the controller or is it a seperate purchase..

 

[milldoggy]

So I decided to start this project. I ordered a temp controller and it is in transit as I type. The only problem is that in my infinite wisdom I got a 220v controller. I know as much about electricity as I do about brain surgery so I am asking this; Instead sending it back and further delaying my project is there anything I can add to the wiring to convert the unit from 220v to 120v?

Someone on this thread said you can replace a diode or some component to convert, but involves soldering.

 

[barrooze]

how did you guys make those awesome temperature chart stickers for the top of the unit?

Just made mine in Excel and used some transparency adhesive sheet to attach mine to my top.

It fits the top of a RadioShack 3x5x7 box very nicely. Attached is a screenshot. The PDF that should print to size is apparently too large in filesize. I uploaded it HERE.

 

[MrMeans]

hmmm I guess I will wait and see what I got when I get it. this si what I got from teh description on ebay. i already emailed the seller and it has been shipped. If I have to exchange it I will, I just was pumped because I got a day off, the wife is going to be gone, and I don't have any tests, quizzes or homework due this week at school.

these are the specs from the ebay description
LCD Digital Temperature Controller Aquarium Digital

Features:
Brand new and high quality
easy-to-read Large LCD display
convenient multifunctional device for controlling temperature
Great for aquarium, terrarium, vivarium, chicken incubator, laboratories and so on
With heating and cooling function
Alarm automatically when temperature exceeds the limit value
Temperature calibration
Refrigerating control output delay protection

Specifications:
Measuring range: -50°C - 99 °C
Control range: -50°C - 99 °C (adjustable)
Control temperature difference: 0.3°C - 10 °C (adjustable)
Resolution: 0.1°C
Accuracy: ± 1°C (-50°C - 70 °C)
Sensor: NTC sensor
Relay contact capacity (heating): 10A (max) 220V
Relay contact capacity (cooling):10 A (max) 220V
Compressor delay protection time: 1 - 10 minutes (adjustable)
Working temperature: 0°C - 60 °C
Storage temperature: -30°C - 75 °C
Operating relative humidity: 20% - 85%
Alarm output: Buzzer
Power consumption: less than 3W
Cable length: 2m
Dimensions: approx. 75mm x 85mm x 34.5mm

Package included:
1 X Temperature controller
1 X Sensor cable
1 X User manual

from reading this is where I figured I got a 220. If its a simple part I have to solder thats fine, if it requires 9 parts and rebuilding the flux capacitor, thats a different story. I guess we'll see what the deal is when it gets here. I will be back with more questions.

 

[jamnw]

That's the exact description of mine. Hopefully they shipped you the 110.
My model number is "stc1000 110vac"

 

[emjay]

hmmm I guess I will wait and see what I got when I get it. this si what I got from teh description on ebay. i already emailed the seller and it has been shipped. If I have to exchange it I will, I just was pumped because I got a day off, the wife is going to be gone, and I don't have any tests, quizzes or homework due this week at school.

these are the specs from the ebay description
LCD Digital Temperature Controller Aquarium Digital

Features:
Brand new and high quality
easy-to-read Large LCD display
convenient multifunctional device for controlling temperature
Great for aquarium, terrarium, vivarium, chicken incubator, laboratories and so on
With heating and cooling function
Alarm automatically when temperature exceeds the limit value
Temperature calibration
Refrigerating control output delay protection

Specifications:
Measuring range: -50°C - 99 °C
Control range: -50°C - 99 °C (adjustable)
Control temperature difference: 0.3°C - 10 °C (adjustable)
Resolution: 0.1°C
Accuracy: ± 1°C (-50°C - 70 °C)
Sensor: NTC sensor
Relay contact capacity (heating): 10A (max) 220V
Relay contact capacity (cooling):10 A (max) 220V
Compressor delay protection time: 1 - 10 minutes (adjustable)
Working temperature: 0°C - 60 °C
Storage temperature: -30°C - 75 °C
Operating relative humidity: 20% - 85%
Alarm output: Buzzer
Power consumption: less than 3W
Cable length: 2m
Dimensions: approx. 75mm x 85mm x 34.5mm

Package included:
1 X Temperature controller
1 X Sensor cable
1 X User manual

from reading this is where I figured I got a 220. If its a simple part I have to solder thats fine, if it requires 9 parts and rebuilding the flux capacitor, thats a different story. I guess we'll see what the deal is when it gets here. I will be back with more questions.

Who was the seller? That will really help the most in determining which version you'll probably get.

 

[MrMeans]

Who was the seller? That will really help the most in determining which version you'll probably get.

smartlaptopparts

they recently updated their listing to include 59.99 shipping. good thing I swooped in when it was 16.99 shipping included.

 

[mattd2]

smartlaptopparts

they recently updated their listing to include 59.99 shipping. good thing I swooped in when it was 16.99 shipping included.

Wow thats a huge increase, maybe they weren't paying attaention and put 59 instead of 26 ($10 increase)

 

[mattd2]

...from reading this is where I figured I got a 220. If its a simple part I have to solder thats fine, if it requires 9 parts and rebuilding the flux capacitor, thats a different story. I guess we'll see what the deal is when it gets here. I will be back with more questions.

If your guess is based on the 220V relay limit then I would still hold your breath, the 110 & 220V are the same unit with a different transformer from what I have read on here, easy swap - do a search of the forum and you will come up with the exact transformer part number you need if it comes down to it

 

[mdboulier]

So I decided to start this project. I ordered a temp controller and it is in transit as I type. The only problem is that in my infinite wisdom I got a 220v controller. I know as much about electricity as I do about brain surgery so I am asking this; Instead sending it back and further delaying my project is there anything I can add to the wiring to convert the unit from 220v to 120v?

Its all about the transformer. They have a 220 vac to 12 vdc transformer that powers the relay. If you have a 12vdc power supply and solder it to where the outlet side of the 220 transformer is and remove the transformer (big block thing) you can use the 12 vdc to open and close the relay. Run your 120 through the terminals as usual. I'm speaking from experience this worked but isn't ideal.

 

[mgolds02]

Could someone clarify something for me on the wiring diagram? I looked through about 100 pages of this post but didnt find my answer. The black wire(s) in the diagram provided on page 1 is hot, correct? Also, is the left side of the outlet is the hot side?

Thanks!

 

[jamnw]

Yes, the black is HOT.
It doesn't matter which terminal you feed the hot into on the relays.

 

[Misplaced_Canuck]

Could someone clarify something for me on the wiring diagram? I looked through about 100 pages of this post but didnt find my answer. The black wire(s) in the diagram provided on page 1 is hot, correct? Also, is the left side of the outlet is the hot side?

Thanks!

You can also refer to post #5 of my cheapo build: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/ebay-fish-tank-controller-build-using-wal-mart-parts-261506/

M_C

 

[SkyHighBrew88]

So I brewed a Simcoe IPA last night and am using a large sized 25 watt ZooMed Reptile Aquarium heat pad. It seems quite similar to the other stickable type pads.

Anyways, being that it is 25 watts, how many can one safely have on the heat source the controller?

I imagine since there are some out there that are using 100 watt lamps that I could run two simultaneously safely but I am no electrical genius. It will soon be getting colder and these pads are awesome and take up zero space!

 

[milldoggy]

25 watts / 110 volts = ~.22 amps. Since the controller is rated at 10, I would say a ton, 40 ish

 

[milldoggy]

You could wrap each carboy with a reptile heater for better heat transfer

 

[SkyHighBrew88]

You could wrap each carboy with a reptile heater for better heat transfer

Haha yeah that'd be good! Too bad the sticky side is already fixed.

Glad to know I won't be overloading anything. Had to ask because the GFCI tripped the first time it was plugged in. I'm pretty sure that particular outlet just needs replaced though since it has done it before in other uses.

 

[gator_brewer]

Edit: I'm a cheap idiot who got the wrong part. Saved $2 and ended up with a 220V unit. Left below just because. Please ignore and forgive my stupidity.

OK I need some help. Got one of these. Set it up, and it doesn't work. Double checked the wiring, still no. The unit turns on, it reads out the temperature, and the "Cool" indicator light blinks for 10 minutes then goes solid (I'm guessing the compressor savor does this). However no power goes to the outlets. I've tried using lamps and fans and clocks to see if it turns on and nothing. I've tried both outlets and still no.

Can someone provide some help.

I followed the schematic and feel like the wiring is correct. I've checked it twice. Here's what I did.

White wire - from power cord to 1, 5 and 7 (single nut).
Green Wire - from power cord to ground on outlet

Black Wire - power cord to "cold/non-broken"
"cold/non-broken" to 2

6 to "hot/broken"-top
8 to "hot/broken"-bottom

Senor to 3 and 4


I miss anything?
I also can't find the instructions, does anyone have a link to them online? Edit: http://lmgtfy.com/?q=stc+1000+directions I'm a fool.

Thanks

 

[jamnw]

I ordered two of these things, and got them wired and boxed up.
Gifting one to my buddy who got me into brewing.

They work very well. I think they are more accurate than the Johnson Controls single stage controller I bought.

I put the sensor in a gallon jug of water, and set it to 6 *C, and it holds it there very well. Checked it with two other thermometers, and it appears to be very accurate.

Thanks for this DIY...

 

[Misplaced_Canuck]

Edit: I'm a cheap idiot who got the wrong part. Saved $2 and ended up with a 220V unit. Left below just because. Please ignore and forgive my stupidity.

OK I need some help. Got one of these. Set it up, and it doesn't work. Double checked the wiring, still no. The unit turns on, it reads out the temperature, and the "Cool" indicator light blinks for 10 minutes then goes solid (I'm guessing the compressor savor does this). However no power goes to the outlets. I've tried using lamps and fans and clocks to see if it turns on and nothing. I've tried both outlets and still no.

Can someone provide some help.

I followed the schematic and feel like the wiring is correct. I've checked it twice. Here's what I did.

White wire - from power cord to 1, 5 and 7 (single nut).
Green Wire - from power cord to ground on outlet

Black Wire - power cord to "cold/non-broken"
"cold/non-broken" to 2

6 to "hot/broken"-top
8 to "hot/broken"-bottom

Senor to 3 and 4

Thanks

If I'm reading it correctly, you should be OK. You obviously have the unit working internally as it's doing what it's supposed to do, minus opening and closing the circuit.

You don't happen to have a 220V model do you? the 220V model will do as you say above, but the relay will fail to close as the voltage is not strong enough to close the relay.

I'd rewire/reattach the wires to make sure it's not a loose wire. Since both hot + cold outlets are dead, I would suspect the non-broken side.

You can refer to my diagram here: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/eb...uild-using-wal-mart-parts-261506/#post3152601

I'm feeding the unit in a different way than yours but yours is fine too.

M_C

 

[jamnw]

Gator: I think it is wired wrong.

Is the device a 110 or 220 version?

The relay is a mechanical switch, and doesn't care what you put "thru" it.

I wired mine like this.

Black-hot-110vac
White-neutral
Green-ground

7 terminals on device

1-2 /power input device
3-4 /sensor input
5-6 /heat relay
7-8 /cool relay

Pigtail "hot" so you have 3 connections.
Put them to 1-5-7

Connect "white" to "white/unbroken" side of receptical.
(there are two screws on each side of receptical)
Take a "white" wire from the spare screw on the "white" side of receptacle to position 2 of the device.
(this will power unit)

Place a "black" wire from position 6 to the "black" side of receptical that is for heat.

Place a "black" from position 8 to black side of receptacle for cool

Connect your sensor to 3-4

YOU ARE DONE

I have a additional on/off switch to turn my unit off completely and some additional lights, but that is all you need to make it work.

Good luck.

 

[jamnw]

Forgot to mention, the tab should be broken on the hot side of your receptacle.


Does anyone know: overseas, is a single phase 220vac? Or do they use two legs like US?