ebay aquarium temp controller build

[alien]

Does anyone have a source for replacement temperature probes for the STC-1000?

 

[dgr]

alien,
If you can get someone to measure the resistance of his probe at 77 degrees, you should be able to get an NTC thermistor and solder up a new one or even find one wired up already.
http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en/sensors-transducers/thermistors-ntc/1966148?k=ntc probe

Sorry mine is still in China at the moment.

 

[JuanMoore]

Does anyone have a source for replacement temperature probes for the STC-1000?

I've seen them on eBay. Any 10k ohm ntc thermistor style with a 3435 beta should work.

 

[cincybrewer]

Where is the probe? Is it attached to a vessel? It should be.

Are you using a fan in the freezer to keep temps fairly even inside?

How are you measuring the temp in the freezer? If you have the probe on a keg, and you are measuring the air temp, yes, it will drop below your "desired" temp, but the beer won't. And the beer temp is what you care about.

Alternatively, you can just dangle the probe in the freezer and eventually it will get the beer to about the temperature you want. For fermentation, I tape the probe with insulation to the newest, most active fermentation. For my keezer, I dangle it in the air. I don't care THAT much about my exact serving temp.

I just stuck the probe in a cup of water to test it out. It actually seems to be working pretty well right now. I think it was just that first run where it had to cool to get down to the set temperature and then took a while to warm back up. Now that it is stable the temp swings seem to be minimal.

I'll probably do what you do once I begin fermenting in it and tape the probe to the bucket with insulation.

 

[berrywise]

Got around to using my temp controller for Sous Vide cooking. Steak was great!

 

[alien]

I've seen them on eBay. Any 10k ohm ntc thermistor style with a 3435 beta should work.

Thanks Juan!

 

[dgr]

Wow! I ordered a couple of the stc-1000s from ebay seller sureelectronics late on 8/7. I had an issue with not being able to upgrade shipping via paypal and emailed the seller. Seller gave me instructions and I sent the paypal for the upgraded shipping on 8/8. The package just arrived. Seller also emailed me the instruction manual as soon as I ordered them. UNBELIEVABLE great service.

 

[SiriusStarr]

Just finished my STC-1000 build based on this thread. Thanks to everyone! Some minor modifications to the layout, but I think it came out sexy, and it works like a dream. Hooking it up to my spare fridge/heater for a nice fermentation chamber. Time for some healthy fermentations for the first time!

 

[Danno81]

Looks good man nice job. Mine works like a dream too.

 

[uatuba]

I have just been using mine for a couple weeks, and I'm amazed at its versatility. I used it to cold crash an ale, cool a batch to pitching temp, and now I'm fermenting a lager. The 75w stoplight works well for heat inside the freezer, too.

 

[itsme_timd]

Here's my crack at a temp controller. This thread was a big help on getting the wiring correct. Thanks!

 

[Yretsof]

Here's my crack at a temp controller. This thread was a big help on getting the wiring correct. Thanks!

How did you split the outlet to work heat on one side and cool on the other?

 

[uatuba]

How did you split the outlet to work heat on one side and cool on the other?

That's how the STC-1000 works. It has dual controllers, one for heating and one for cooling.

 

[JuanMoore]

How did you split the outlet to work heat on one side and cool on the other?

Break off the tab that connects the two hot side terminals, and then wire them separately.

 

[itsme_timd]

That's how the STC-1000 works. It has dual controllers, one for heating and one for cooling.

Break off the tab that connects the two hot side terminals, and then wire them separately.

Yep. The STC-1000 will control heat/cool on/off and breaking off the tab allows each outlet to run independently.

 

[beercity23]

I'm having issues wiring mine. Do you not run white and black into anf from stc? It looks like you have to run black(hot) from power cord to stc power then also to #7. Then you run another black from 8 to the outlet? And the white runs from power cord to switch then to stc? Correct?

 

[uatuba]

I'm having issues wiring mine. Do you not run white and black into anf from stc? It looks like you have to run black(hot) from power cord to stc power then also to #7. Then you run another black from 8 to the outlet? And the white runs from power cord to switch then to stc? Correct?

You need three pigtails wired to your hot and two to your neutral. Hot 1 goes to main pin, neutral 1 goes to other main pin, hot 2 goes to cooling pin, and hot 3 goes to heating pin. Neutral 2 goes to neutral side of outlet (don't break the tab and use either screw). You'll now need two additional pigtails; one to go from heating pin to hot side of heating plug (do break the tab on the hot side of the plug), and one to go from cooling pin to hot side of cooling plug. The heating and cooling pins serve as a switch that breaks the hot wire...do not wire both the neutral and the hot to anything other than the main pins on the controller.

 

[JuanMoore]

I'm having issues wiring mine. Do you not run white and black into anf from stc? It looks like you have to run black(hot) from power cord to stc power then also to #7. Then you run another black from 8 to the outlet? And the white runs from power cord to switch then to stc? Correct?

I'm a bit confused as to what you're describing, but it doesn't sound correct. You need to run hot (black) and neutral (white) to terminals 1&2, which provides power to the controller. You then need to run a hot (black) to either terminal 5 or 6, and then an outgoing hot from the other one to your heat receptacle. Then run another hot (black) to either terminal 7 or 8, and an outgoing hot from the other one to your cooling receptacle. You'll want to run neutrals (white) to the neutral side of both your heating and cooling receptacles, and ground both receptacles as well. Terminals 3&4 are where the temp probe wires go. If you want heating and cooling on the same duplex outlet, then break the hot side tab, and only run one neutral to the receptacle.

 

[Yretsof]

Yep. The STC-1000 will control heat/cool on/off and breaking off the tab allows each outlet to run independently.

Oh you broke the tab off of the outlet not the controller, I understand the controller works both sides, just making sure he didnt wire the heat to one outlet, and cool to the other without seperating them. Then both outlets would be powered on heat and cool....making the heater and fridge run at the same time. I've never wired one like that, I used 2 outlets, allowing for 2 heaters.

 

[beercity23]

i see! i was thinking you ran black and white into each heat and cold, then to outlet you wanted to use.
I am not using heat at all though, so i wont be using that

THANKS!

 

[beercity23]

IT WORKS. Thanks

 

[vogtenstein222]

Okay, so I'm in process on my build. I got the holes cut beautifully for the outlet. Then proceeded on to the hole for the temp controller. I traced it (assumed the front) and went to put it in and those orange brackets started holding me up. Now it turns out after. Tiny amount of shaving I have a hole large enough for the brackets to go through, but also gaping once the entire thing is in. Where have I gone wrong? I suppose I'm willing to buy another box and just start over if there's no other option, but if someone has some advice that would save me the $$$, that'd be great!

 

[itsme_timd]

The orange brackets slide off then you want the hole the size of the internal dimensions of the controller. Once you put it in the hole you slide the brackets back on to lock it in place. If you cut the hole based on the outline of the faceplate it's likely you'll just need another box, or make some kind of trim plate that fits in the first hole.

 

[vogtenstein222]

The orange brackets slide off then you want the hole the size of the internal dimensions of the controller. Once you put it in the hole you slide the brackets back on to lock it in place. If you cut the hole based on the outline of the faceplate it's likely you'll just need another box, or make some kind of trim plate that fits in the first hole.

I was really hoping you'd just lie to me and say I didn't screw it up haha

On that note: thank you for the quick reply! My dad is pretty creative with the things I mess up, maybe he'll have a quick fix for it

 

[itsme_timd]

I was really hoping you'd just lie to me and say I didn't screw it up haha

On that note: thank you for the quick reply! My dad is pretty creative with the things I mess up, maybe he'll have a quick fix for it

LOL, I almost did the same thing. Hopefully it's something you can save.

 

[vogtenstein222]

LOL, I almost did the same thing. Hopefully it's something you can save.

I'm sure it's salvageable. The good news is its not an URGENT project as its gonna be for my fermenter for now and I am not brewing for another couple weeks at least.

 

[Danno81]

That sucks. Those orange brackets slide off. U gotta lift up on the little tabs on the side. They are what hold the controller in place

 

[uatuba]

Get a solid wall plate and cut the correct sized cutout in it. Attach the wall plate, then slide the controller through and use the brackets to hold it into place. They're like $1, so it beats buying a new project box.

 

[vogtenstein222]

For now I just flipped the box over and cut a new hole. I am planning a walk-in ferm chamber in my basement as we speak with two zones (one for lagers, one for ales), plus a 20 cu.ft. keezer; so ill be operating a few controllers and plan to just get my hands on a larger industrial box with all the business contained there. This one will do for now as the make-shift while construction moves forward. Thanks for all the advice though folks!

 

[alien]

This is still the cheapest I could find http://amzn.to/16NXgvw