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ebay aquarium temp controller build

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I'd still do a permanent controller like above in the door. No switch necessary. Just wire the controller to the refrigerator portion and leave it. I'm a proponent off the KISS method.
 
After thinking about it, you are right. I'll look into wiring it directly into the refrigerator, keeping the freezer portion running normally. Thanks!
 
I threw this together today. 18.60 for the controller from amazon. $12 Box from home depot. , 1.50 Each for the plugs, $7 for the cord. An hour on the mill at work, and viola! My temperature controller, keeping my porter at a steady temp....hopefully!


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Curious question for those using these with fridges with freezers:

Does the freezer continue to kick on when in use? I set it to 21.5 degrees Celsius and it seems that the freezer keeps kicking on preventing the temperature from ever setting correct. What am I doing wrong?
 
Most refrigerators only have one compressor. Top/ bottom fridges use the "excess" cold air from the freezer to cool the fridge. If your compressor keeps turning on, I would check the temperature settings first, then the other parameters in the controller. Then the wiring. If it is hooked up like mine is, the fridge doesnt even get electricity untill it is above the set temperature+variance. You may have some wires crossed, somewhere.
 
Just finished my build and tested it. Everything works!!

On question, i used an 18 awg cord from and old computer to wire this. Should I try to get some 14awg wire?

I am running a 5cf chest freezer and a personal space heater.
 
Most refrigerators only have one compressor. Top/ bottom fridges use the "excess" cold air from the freezer to cool the fridge. If your compressor keeps turning on, I would check the temperature settings first, then the other parameters in the controller. Then the wiring. If it is hooked up like mine is, the fridge doesnt even get electricity untill it is above the set temperature+variance. You may have some wires crossed, somewhere.

The problem ended up being simple. I was trying to get my already cool fridge (45 degrees) to match the temp control which was throwing it off.

I turned off the fridge/temp controller and let it warm up to garage temp. I kicked it on to 25 Celsius and am right on the money inside. I'm so stoked to brew this weekend!
 
You may want to tape the sensor directly to your carboy. I did this after it was cooled down, and with the georgia humdity outside, it quickly began to sweat, which made it impossibable for the tape to stick to it. I found I had to wrap duct tapetl l the way around the carboy. And stick it to its srlfx mk
 
Lol, thanks for your concern. Long days at work, beginning at 5 am. And a couple of beers makes for a drowsy boy. I was apparently dozing off while posting that. So I will clarify, I tried to tape the sensor to the glass carboy, after it had been in the fermenter for about 3 days but the humidity was causing profuse sweating, therefore even the almighty duct tape wouldnt stick. So I ended up having to wrap the duct tape all the way around the carboy so that it would stick to its self. I am going to brew an irish red this weekend and will probably fashion an elastic belt to hold the sensor in place.
 
just wired one up for my keezer to be! laser cut some abs plastic to make a project box and am going to hook it up tomorrow night! too tired from working on my keggle to deal with it tonight! thanks for the pics - reallly helped me, as i had never wired anything up before! the one thing i had trouble with was the jumper between the cold and the hot - i had no idea what it was!! some knowledgeable friends pointed it out and all was well! thanksa gain!
 
Lol, thanks for your concern. Long days at work, beginning at 5 am. And a couple of beers makes for a drowsy boy. I was apparently dozing off while posting that. So I will clarify, I tried to tape the sensor to the glass carboy, after it had been in the fermenter for about 3 days but the humidity was causing profuse sweating, therefore even the almighty duct tape wouldnt stick. So I ended up having to wrap the duct tape all the way around the carboy so that it would stick to its self. I am going to brew an irish red this weekend and will probably fashion an elastic belt to hold the sensor in place.

I put the probe against the carboy/keg, put about 5 layers of bubble wrap over it, then use a bungee cord around the entire carboy/keg. No sticky residue from tape that way and it holds no matter what temp/moisture is inside the keezer. Works well for me!
 
I put the probe against the carboy/keg, put about 5 layers of bubble wrap over it, then use a bungee cord around the entire carboy/keg. No sticky residue from tape that way and it holds no matter what temp/moisture is inside the keezer. Works well for me!

I use wide, blue painters tape. If the fermenter is reasonably dry, it works perfectly, with no residue. About a 10 inch piece does the trick. I have done this for about a year with never a problem.
 
Question: why does it need to both heat and cool simultaneously (and how can it) when there is only one temperature control? Am I misreading? Or is it merely so that you don't have to rewire everything when switching from the need for cold to the need for heat? You just move the temperature probe to the carboy needing regulated, and if you need heat, you plug in your space heater to the warm plug, whereas if you need cold, you put it in the freezer and plug it in to the cold plug? And what is the deal with airplane food?

I'm about to start lagering and was eyeballing the Johnson digital, but I really like this look and feel and think it may very well last longer based on some of the Johnson reviews I've read.

Sorry for the potentially dumb questions. I like to keep things simple (not necessarily easy, but not overdone for what we are trying to accomplish as home brewers), so you'll never see me with a cold-fusion atomic accelerating perpetual motion automated brewery...but I do want to be able to control temperature effectively.
 
It needs to do both so when it's too cold it heats and when it's too hot it cools. Temperatures fluctuate in most environments, so regulation is key. When it's too cold the temp controller will kick on the heater plug, when its too hot it will kick on the cooler plug.
 
But heat really wouldn't be necessary for use within a freezer for the purposes balancing the temperature (given enough of a margin for temperature swing, say 2* F), would it?
 
You would want both when the summers are hot and the winters are cold. Like in my case my fermenter a fridge on my back porch in GA. Where the temps range from the teens to the hundreds. I have the fridge hooked to the cold side and a ceramic heater mounted inside and hooked to the heat side. So theres no messing after its installed. I can tell my controller to stay at a certain temp and it does it through the entire year. It just makes things easier than moving everything around.
 
So you put an aquarium heater or something similar in the refrigerator as well? Do you seal it in a container of water to help cut down on the water evaporating and condensing inside the refrigerator?

Last question...I promise...I didn't see if the swing in temperature could be programmed (but I may have missed it). I would prefer to be ale to control that so that I could avoid a constant fridge/heater/fridge/heater/fridge/heater cycle. Is that possible?
 
So you put an aquarium heater or something similar in the refrigerator as well? Do you seal it in a container of water to help cut down on the water evaporating and condensing inside the refrigerator?

Last question...I promise...I didn't see if the swing in temperature could be programmed (but I may have missed it). I would prefer to be ale to control that so that I could avoid a constant fridge/heater/fridge/heater/fridge/heater cycle. Is that possible?

No the temperature stays at 65 so theres no evaporating or condensing. If the temperature goes above the set tolerance range the fridge kicks on, if the temp gets below the heater is turned on. Your only talking about a few degrees of temp change. Putting the heater in an unsealed container of water will create condensation. The large quantities of liquid help to maintain a more constant temp. I havent ran mine for a full year yet, and right now since its July in Georgia, I dont have the heater plugged in, but When it gets into the colder months I will unplug the fridge, and plug in the heater.

Yes, there is a setting for temp variances, and theres a delay that can be set too. So you can tell it X is the desired temp Y is the +/- variance if the temp goes outside that variance wait Z minutes to turn on the compressor. Unless I am mistaken on how it works. The instructions are in very broken english.
 
You are correct. On the STC 1000 the second setting (F2) is the differential in degrees Celscius. Pretty easy to use once you get the hang of it. BTW third and fourth settings are for compressor delay and calibration respectively.
 
I ordered mine tonight!! Can't wait I just picked up a chest freezer off of Craig's list for 50 bucks! , ill have to add a collar so I can set a 2nd carboy on the ledge over the compressor. Hopefully having controlled fermentation will help make my brews better! I love this hobby! I built my kegerator 1st for commercial kegs, then I picked up a home brew kit off of CL and have been upgrading everything for the last month . I built my stir plate the other day. I love tinkering on stuff, this is defiantly my favorite pastime ever!
Thank you all for sharing your knowledge
 
Yup this stuff is like crack. You get hooked on a 25 dollar kit and 1000 bucks later your deciding what the next upgrade is gonna be. Mine is a walk in ferm chamber I can lager in during the hot part of the Florida summer. Wish me luck getting that past the SWMBO minister of finances....

Wheelchair Bob
 
Good luck lol. What part of Florida are you in? I'm jar south of Tampa in riverview / sun city center
 
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