ebay aquarium temp controller build

[JuanMoore]

Any pictures? I'm curious how it looks and how ghetto it is.

The labels look crooked because I was laying out where to put them when I snapped this pic. I could have just used one controller, but I had two of them so I found a use for both. The pump controller was set up act as a safeguard in case something goes wrong during the mash, but gets more use as a mash temp monitor. I also use it to automatically start the recirc pump when the HLT reaches temp on the second of back to back batches. It actually looks a lot more ghetto than this now, because it got placed too close to a burner during a batch last year and everything got warped from the heat. A broken star-san bottle in my brewing supply tote also destroyed several of the labels, increasing the ghetto factor even further.

 

[snaps10]

the labels look crooked because i was laying out where to put them when i snapped this pic. I could have just used one controller, but i had two of them so i found a use for both. The pump controller was set up act as a safeguard in case something goes wrong during the mash, but gets more use as a mash temp monitor. I also use it to automatically start the recirc pump when the hlt reaches temp on the second of back to back batches.

 

[Beernik]

I just put pencil to paper and realized that if I make my BK do double duty as a HLT, I can jerry-rig a 2 vessel HERMS with improved wort chilling action for less than $500.

It will still have to wait until after Christmas, but this rocks.

 

[IslandLizard]

The labels look crooked because I was laying out where to put them when I snapped this pic. I could have just used one controller, but I had two of them so I found a use for both. The pump controller was set up act as a safeguard in case something goes wrong during the mash, but gets more use as a mash temp monitor. I also use it to automatically start the recirc pump when the HLT reaches temp on the second of back to back batches. It actually looks a lot more ghetto than this now, because it got placed too close to a burner during a batch last year and everything got warped from the heat. A broken star-san bottle in my brewing supply tote also destroyed several of the labels, increasing the ghetto factor even further.

That looks really nice actually. The melted case and "etched" labels are just to add that "industrial used" character. But you're replacing the tags, so it looks as good as new. Great idea, thanks for sharing that!

 

[JuanMoore]

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Hah! I'll see what I can do. No promises though.

That looks really nice actually. The melted case and "etched" labels are just to add that "industrial used" character. But you're replacing the tags, so it looks as good as new. Great idea, thanks for sharing that!

I think you misunderstood, that pic is from the original build, not from me replacing the labels. I don't even have time to brew anymore, let alone to fix the labels. Trust me when I say it looks really ghetto today. The sad part is that it's still one of the less ghetto parts of my brew rig. :cross:

 

[alien]

CAD freaks planning a build, check out this Sketchup model of the STC-1000:

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/sketchup-model-stc-1000-enjoy-431892/

 

[boombrewer]

sub'd for future reference

 

[harry_the_face]

So I am on page 51 and can't wait as I read through another 300 to find the answer.

Has anyone just wired the cooling side in place of the freezers thermostat? It seems a lot simpler and a lot less money because there is no extra pieces to buy. Then the heat can be wired to the heat side, install in the place of the dial thermostat and your good.

It is rated at 10 amps and my freezer is only 3.5 amps so it should work just fine.

 

[chessking]

So I am on page 51 and can't wait as I read through another 300 to find the answer.

Has anyone just wired the cooling side in place of the freezers thermostat? It seems a lot simpler and a lot less money because there is no extra pieces to buy. Then the heat can be wired to the heat side, install in the place of the dial thermostat and your good.

It is rated at 10 amps and my freezer is only 3.5 amps so it should work just fine.

That is exactly what I did. Removing the fridge thermostat and wired the controller in its place. You still need to find a hot and a neutral to power the stc 1000. One benefit of this is my refrigerator light still comes on when I open the door regardless of the compressor being on or off.
You would still need to wire an outlet for the heat side. My unit is in a warm room, and heating is never a problem.
This is on an old analog fridge without any frost free crap. Newer digital units may not be as easy to wire.

 

[403Brewer]

Is the main readout on the STC1000 showing current temperature? Or target temperature? I would like to get one just as a temperature monitor for now and then use it for temperature control down the road...is this possible? I know there are temp monitors for a bit cheaper

 

[TCGoose]

Is the main readout on the STC1000 showing current temperature? Or target temperature? I would like to get one just as a temperature monitor for now and then use it for temperature control down the road...is this possible? I know there are temp monitors for a bit cheaper

It shows current temp

 

[403Brewer]

What is the diameter of the stock probe? I'm sure its in here but couldn't find it searching 370 pages...does anyone put it inside a thermowell in the fermenter?

 

[IslandLizard]

What is the diameter of the stock probe? I'm sure its in here but couldn't find it searching 370 pages...does anyone put it inside a thermowell in the fermenter?

It's ovalish, 1/4" by a tad over 3/16".
5/8" long

 

[alien]

I'm still loving the STC-1000 build but do radio shack even sell the 8x6x3 box that the OP used? I was in several different stores this week checking out the clearance items and never saw one that size.

 

[mrklueber]

Yes, Radio Shack still sells the 8x6x3 project box. If the local store doesn't have one in stock, you can find it on their web site.

 

[SiriusStarr]

Yes, Radio Shack still sells the 8x6x3 project box. If the local store doesn't have one in stock, you can find it on their web site.

Seconded; I bought mine about a month ago.

 

[Edbert]

Assuming one sterilized the probe could it not be directly in the wort during fermentation for the most accurate reading?

My STC is in the mailbox today, will be using it to control a full-size fridge for use as an FC, no need for heat anytime soon, the fridge will be in my house which NEVER gets below 60 degrees.

Unrelated directly to this thread; i'm hoping I can use the ref side for fermenting and the freezer side for a keezer. Time will tell if I can adjust the ref side to 60-65 and have the freez side be around 35 or not.

 

[barrooze]

Assuming one sterilized the probe could it not be directly in the wort during fermentation for the most accurate reading?

Yup! But the question then is how to add a good seal to your air lock. I suppose if you use a blowoff tube instead of an airlock you could feed the probe through that and dangle it in the fermenting beer. Don't know if the CO2 coming to the surface would lift the probe to the surface, but i'm sure if you submerged the probe far enough into the wort it'll be fine.

OR you could just get a thermowell and not worry about any of the above...

 

[jerryk]

Yup! But the question then is how to add a good seal to your air lock. I suppose if you use a blowoff tube instead of an airlock you could feed the probe through that and dangle it in the fermenting beer. Don't know if the CO2 coming to the surface would lift the probe to the surface, but i'm sure if you submerged the probe far enough into the wort it'll be fine. OR you could just get a thermowell and not worry about any of the above...

Does this well fit the STC-1000's probe?

 

[IslandLizard]

Yup! But the question then is how to add a good seal to your air lock. I suppose if you use a blowoff tube instead of an airlock you could feed the probe through that and dangle it in the fermenting beer. Don't know if the CO2 coming to the surface would lift the probe to the surface, but i'm sure if you submerged the probe far enough into the wort it'll be fine.

OR you could just get a thermowell and not worry about any of the above...

I read somewhere that the probe and wire insulation will dissolve in alcohol. They are not food grade silicone. So direct immersion for extended time would not be advisable.

I see 3 solutions:

1. Thermowell with existing probe or a replacement one. It maybe hard to get the probe to the bottom of the well. It is 1/4" on the widest diameter, but not very slick. A push wire maybe needed.
2. Encase the probe and wire in a silicone hose and and seal the ends. Not sure if that impedes on the temp. readout. Also it needs to be weighted down.
3. Use a replacement silicone or metal probe. Typically the seal or crimp between the metal tube and the silicone wire is the weak spot.

 

[barrooze]

Does this well fit the STC-1000's probe?

I have no idea. I don't use a thermowell as i find i get adequate readings by taping the probe to the side of my carboy/better bottle and then taping insulation around that to ensure i'm only measuring the temp of the fermentation. I'm sure there are threads discussing which thermowells fit the STC probe if you search for them. Good luck!

 

[jcp]

Assuming one sterilized the probe could it not be directly in the wort during fermentation for the most accurate reading?

I'm going to put in my vote for *not* doing this, and here's why:

By dropping the sensor into the beer, you're basically plugging the controller into something with a fairly large thermal inertia; the fridge/freezer will be dropping the temperature of the air, waiting for the beer to catch up. The problem is that it takes a heck of a lot of energy to drop the beer temp, as opposed to the air temp.

So, by the time the beer temp hits your setting, your air temp will be *much* lower than that, and it will continue to "carry-over cool" your beer, many degrees lower than you intended.

I lost several batches of beer, this way, as the over cooling slowed the yeast down so much that it dropped out and went to sleep before it finished. My beers were green apple sour-bombs, due to the fact that the yeast never finished converting the acetaldehyde to ethanol, before they dropped out.

Tape your controller to the side of your fermenter; cover it with a chunk of insulation or styrofoam, and your fridge/freezer will cool the beer in shorter "steps" and ensure you don't way undershoot your target temp.

 

[Beernik]

A couple weeks ago I accidentally froze a couple bottles of beer while cold-crashing a brew.

I won't make that mistake again.

 

[alien]

Still cheaper on Amazon in my location, and delivery from a US location.

 

[jcp]

Still cheaper on Amazon in my location, and delivery from a US location.

Does it have the temperature probe? Seems too cheap to be true!

 

[SavoryChef]

Does it have the temperature probe? Seems too cheap to be true!

I bought that one and it does have a temp probe.

 

[IslandLizard]

Does it have the temperature probe? Seems too cheap to be true!

I bought that one and it does have a temp probe.

Yup, I bought 2 of that same one for $18.00 each, a few weeks ago. Comes complete with probe and works like a charm.

 

[troy2000]

I'm going to put in my vote for *not* doing this, and here's why:

By dropping the sensor into the beer, you're basically plugging the controller into something with a fairly large thermal inertia; the fridge/freezer will be dropping the temperature of the air, waiting for the beer to catch up. The problem is that it takes a heck of a lot of energy to drop the beer temp, as opposed to the air temp.

So, by the time the beer temp hits your setting, your air temp will be *much* lower than that, and it will continue to "carry-over cool" your beer, many degrees lower than you intended.

I lost several batches of beer, this way, as the over cooling slowed the yeast down so much that it dropped out and went to sleep before it finished. My beers were green apple sour-bombs, due to the fact that the yeast never finished converting the acetaldehyde to ethanol, before they dropped out.

Tape your controller to the side of your fermenter; cover it with a chunk of insulation or styrofoam, and your fridge/freezer will cool the beer in shorter "steps" and ensure you don't way undershoot your target temp.

According to my personal experience, thermal mass is good. I have a mini fridge set up for a 5 gal carboy; for a heater I use a 60 watt ceramic heating element. When I tried laying the STC-1000's probe loose or taping it to the side of the fridge, I kept overshooting the temperature: the compressor would shut off when it was supposed to, but the temp would keep dropping until the heater came on. Then the heater would shut off when it was supposed to, but the temp would keep climbing until the compressor came on....

I tried dropping the probe into a tea kettle of water. That slowed the cycling down, but didn't stop it. Now I have the probe taped directly to my full carboy, with a piece of double foil-faced bubble wrap insulation taped over it. Everything works fine - because the probe is reading the temp of the carboy's contents, instead of the air. And as you pointed out, that much mass reacts a lot slower...

My differential is set at .5 degrees C. After the compressor or the heater shuts down, the carboy temp normally only overshoots by .1 degree C. before it steadies out. I tested the setup with the carboy totall full of water, so I could stick a cooking thermometer in it for comparision. My digital thermometer and the STC-1000 reads were less than a degree F apart.

Of course I used a very small fridge, so there's less heated or cooled air to keep working after the compressor or heater shuts off. You can see my setup here:

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/collecting-toys-get-started-435024/

I have a batch of saison in it right now, and the temperatures are holding steady.

 

[RonRock]

I am sure this has been asked earlier in the thread, but is there a similar unit that reads in Fahrenheit?

 

[JuanMoore]

I am sure this has been asked earlier in the thread, but is there a similar unit that reads in Fahrenheit?

Yes, but all of the ones that read in F are single stage. If you want dual stage, you'll need the C model.