ebay aquarium temp controller build

[cwi]

Right, I am not advocating a switched fan. My outlet is not really nearby and my spliced phone charger cord is pretty short, so I wired it this way. It works great and leaves the possibility of converting this into a two stage controller by wiring in 5 and 6 in the future if I need another fermentation controller. I don't see what is impractical about this at all.

I didn't say there were no situations that might have a cooling and always on outlet as a solution, just that the standard config is more versatile, especially without having to rewire anything to gain full use of it. The config with an added duplex outlet would also solve your problem, as would an extension cord.

And in the future, couldn't you just ask for clarification instead of being snarky? We're all trying to help answer questions here. No need for that crap.

Right, but your response gave instructions on how to do exactly the opposite of what he wanted (even though it is a better solution), and I am the one who needs clarification?

Perhaps we can all read the questions of those we are trying to help.

 

[pabloj13]

I didn't say there were no situations that might have a cooling and always on outlet as a solution, just that the standard config is more versatile, especially without having to rewire anything to gain full use of it. The config with an added duplex outlet would also solve your problem, as would an extension cord.


Right, but your response gave instructions on how to do exactly the opposite of what he wanted (even though it is a better solution), and I am the one who needs clarification?

Perhaps we can all read the questions of those we are trying to help.

<Yawn> Ok, I missed one part of their post. Instead of asking for clarification, you snarked it up. It's not necessary. But whatever, dude. Carry on.

Anyway, it's best to keep the fan running all the time for the reasons mentioned above. You can either wire it into the same duplex (as I did) or into another duplex, or use an extension cord. Personal preference. But yes, just leave 5&6 open. Wired like mine, if you decided to switch it in the future you would only have to add one wire, which is why I chose to do it that way.

 

[weeple2000]

That snark seems unnecessary. It's confusing as to why you would have a plug always hot to constantly run a fan when you are yourself advocating running a fan the whole time? I don't think it's confusing to just skip wiring 5&6 and just run a hot right into one of the two plugs in the outlet. Then that plug will always be on instead of being switched.

Thanks a ton for the drawing. Its worth a thousand words. I think part of the confusion is using the word hot to describe the wiring when it is powering a temperature controller. It is the black wire however, eh?

Black is hot, white is neutral and green is ground. <= from google

 

[bradfordmonk]

I made mine last month...using it for first time, works great.

 

[ajeismont]

Hey guys. So I read through the first 50 pages as well as the last 10. I have a question about a non-STC-1000. Here's the link on ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/110V-Digita...242&pid=100010&prg=1076&rk=5&sd=350697478631&

About 5 pages ago, someone posted a link, and was told that it only did heating (or cooling...can't remember exactly) but not both, as well as the fact that it was only 5A.

This one does say "heating and cooling control", but I don't see anything about the amperage.

I'm doubting that it will work, but hopeful being that it's only $13.50. Any insight or opinions would be greatly appreciated. Cheers.

 

[bradfordmonk]

Hey guys. So I read through the first 50 pages as well as the last 10. I have a question about a non-STC-1000. Here's the link on ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/110V-Digita...242&pid=100010&prg=1076&rk=5&sd=350697478631&

About 5 pages ago, someone posted a link, and was told that it only did heating (or cooling...can't remember exactly) but not both, as well as the fact that it was only 5A.

This one does say "heating and cooling control", but I don't see anything about the amperage.

I'm doubting that it will work, but hopeful being that it's only $13.50. Any insight or opinions would be greatly appreciated. Cheers.

I'm not too sure, but the STC-1000 works great and is really not that much more ~10$.

I did find this on the forums here as well and this seems to indicate it's only 1-stage, meaning it will only do one or the other not both. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/willhi-wiring-341629/

 

[JuanMoore]

Hey guys. So I read through the first 50 pages as well as the last 10. I have a question about a non-STC-1000. Here's the link on ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/110V-Digital-LCD-Thermostat-Temperature-Regulator-Controller-Aquarium-Fish-Tank-/290704096237?_trksid=p2047675.m2109&_trkparms=aid%3D555003%26algo%3DPW.CAT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D142%26meid%3D5682040559069151242%26pid%3D100010%26prg%3D1076%26rk%3D5%26sd%3D350697478631%26

About 5 pages ago, someone posted a link, and was told that it only did heating (or cooling...can't remember exactly) but not both, as well as the fact that it was only 5A.

This one does say "heating and cooling control", but I don't see anything about the amperage.

I'm doubting that it will work, but hopeful being that it's only $13.50. Any insight or opinions would be greatly appreciated. Cheers.

That's a single stage unit, meaning that you need to switch between heating mode and cooling mode manually, and it won't control both at the same time. There is some debate about how much it's rated for, but the relay is the same 15amp one found in the dual stage stc-1000. If you want to be able to control heating and cooling at the same time, look for a "dual stage" unit.

 

[ajeismont]

Thanks for the insight guys. For a few extra bucks, I guess I'll just play it safe and get the STC-1000.

 

[Loodachris]

Thanks for the insight guys. For a few extra bucks, I guess I'll just play it safe and get the STC-1000.

I zoomed in on the picture and it does say 5 amps

 

[Lumpyyyyy]

Is the stc probe waterproof?

 

[mirogster]

Is the stc probe waterproof?

Yes afik, it is. But I wouldn't dip it to the hot water, wort and/or fermenting beer.

 

[Lumpyyyyy]

Yes afik, it is. But I wouldn't dip it to the hot water, wort and/or fermenting beer.

I'm looking to put it into a cup if water. That's all

 

[orion7144]

I'm looking to put it into a cup if water. That's all

They are designed for fish tank use so you can keep it in water just not boiling water.

 

[tre9er]

Just added heating to mine last night. These things are incredibly simple to wire. My chamber was getting too cool to do temp increases at end of vigorous fermentation due to basement being in low 60s

 

[cridden]

I've read every post in this giant thread, and just today finished building my temp controller. Fired up and works perfectly.
got mine for $16 shipped, and all told it cost me 35 bucks. Not too shabby at all.
One question though, the space heater I was going to use has been taken to warm feet in the den, so I was wondering if my brewbelt will be good enough for heat purposes? My ferm cabinet is a 3 cubic foot freezer and i only ferment 5 gallons at a time, so the belt should work shouldnt it? The controller will kick it on and off just like the heater will wont it?

 

[Lumpyyyyy]

I've read every post in this giant thread, and just today finished building my temp controller. Fired up and works perfectly.
got mine for $16 shipped, and all told it cost me 35 bucks. Not too shabby at all.
One question though, the space heater I was going to use has been taken to warm feet in the den, so I was wondering if my brewbelt will be good enough for heat purposes? My ferm cabinet is a 3 cubic foot freezer and i only ferment 5 gallons at a time, so the belt should work shouldnt it? The controller will kick it on and off just like the heater will wont it?

I'm using the fermwrap which is pretty much the same and it works fine. My house is usually ~62F and I can get my fridge up to 75F no problem.

 

[DirtyVickers]

I have 3 of these controllers. Pretty easy build, too, if you have some basic wiring skills. Just be careful if when you buy the temp controller-there are a lot of these listed on E-bay and they are not all 2 stage controllers for heating and cooling.

 

[StrangerDanger]

Sorry for the n00b question: How does an electronic temp controller *cool* down the water? I've never heard of this before...

 

[JuanMoore]

Sorry for the n00b question: How does an electronic temp controller *cool* down the water? I've never heard of this before...

It doesn't. It's like a thermostat that turns your chosen heating and cooling devices on and off as needed to maintain the specific temperature that you choose. Fridges and freezers are the most common choices for cooling devices.

 

[MetallHed]

Ok I read through a ton, not all, of this thread (most of it was over my head). I got my STC-1000 for 21 bucks shipped and received it yesterday so I'm going to start getting stuff together to do the build. Couple of questions (I apologize if they were already answered in this 86 page thread):

Is there danger in assembling the temp controller in a wood box? I'd like to make the controller part of my kitchen's decor.

Can I use a single receptacle if I'm only using the controller for cooling?

Like this:

 

[reynolds5520]

A single receptacle is fine, they exist for this sort of application. A duplex receptacle may be cheaper though since they are more common.


The enclosure should really be something properly rated as an electrical equipment enclosure. No reason you can't cover that with wood for appearance.

 

[Thursday88]

Been reading this thread since yesterday and I'm in the process of gathering everything. I'm wondering if I am on the right track.

Black = hot
Gray = neutral
Green = ground

None of the the only connections are at the terminal block. The intersections are just wires passing each other.

 

[blaster_54738]

Been reading this thread since yesterday and I'm in the process of gathering everything. I'm wondering if I am on the right track.

Black = hot
Gray = neutral
Green = ground

None of the the only connections are at the terminal block. The intersections are just wires passing each other.

You only need one neutral wire off the receptacle, not 2, there is still the bridge there that you don't need to break on the neutral side...other than that looks good

 

[Thursday88]

Thanks blaster, much appreciated.

 

[Padawan]

Is this comparable to a Johnson temp controller? does it have a delay function?

 

[Thursday88]

Another question. Would either of these be viable to wire up another receptacle for always hot?

1.

Or add another terminal/block and a jumper to keep it at 2 wires per connection.
2.

I know this is supposed to be a simple circuit and I think I might have it wired correctly but I wanted to make sure before I started.

 

[Huaco]

If you have the two receptacles in a 2-gang box, you can just daisy chain the grounds and neutrals. This will reduce the amount of wires going back to the terminal block.

 

[Thursday88]

If you have the two receptacles in a 2-gang box, you can just daisy chain the grounds and neutrals. This will reduce the amount of wires going back to the terminal block.

Well they will be on opposite sides of the box. So would a daisy chain still be a good alternative?

 

[Huaco]

Well they will be on opposite sides of the box. So would a daisy chain still be a good alternative?

Probably not.
How many posts will your terminal block have? You could just install 2 small terminal blocks... a hot and a neutral block each. You will easily be able to connect both grounds to one post of the terminal block if you make sure to cut your jumper short of that "ground" post on the terminal block.

 

[Thursday88]

Probably not.
How many posts will your terminal block have? You could just install 2 small terminal blocks... a hot and a neutral block each. You will easily be able to connect both grounds to one post of the terminal block if you make sure to cut your jumper short of that "ground" post on the terminal block.

I can do whatever. I did another two without the blocks should be a little clearer and easier to fit in a tighter space. This is with twist caps. The only thing is I'm not sure if I've isolated one of the receptacles in the first one. I have a limited knowledge when it comes to electricity and circuits but from what I understand #1 should be fine, not 100% yet.

Thanks for your help.

1. The first receptacle that the incoming wire comes into is my always hot.

2. This is splitting the ground and neutral before the terminal.