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Easy Stove-Top Pasteurizing - With Pics

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dhammers91 said:
Well u could always buy a kegging system! Definitely worth it IMO! :)
One day I will make the jump, but bottles for now. Two kids and a stay at home wife, funds are limited... This was supposed to be a hobby for me to save some money, but the money I save I end up spending on more equipment.
 
I have room in my fridge for 5 gallons worth of bottles. My question is, can I just cold crash instead of pastureizing if they will remain in the fridge until they will be opened?
 
I have room in my fridge for 5 gallons worth of bottles. My question is, can I just cold crash instead of pastureizing if they will remain in the fridge until they will be opened?

Depends on the yeast and temperature of the fridge. During thaw cycles fermentation could continue on a small scale, and over time it could get ugly.
 
CiderRules said:
Depends on the yeast and temperature of the fridge. During thaw cycles fermentation could continue on a small scale, and over time it could get ugly.

Well my fermentation was very slow on my cider. It took almost 3 weeks to get to FG.

I do that for all my other beers so why would this be any different? More sugar from the concentrate and syrup in relation to the cup of sugar is use for beers?
 
Well my fermentation was very slow on my cider. It took almost 3 weeks to get to FG.

I do that for all my other beers so why would this be any different? More sugar from the concentrate and syrup in relation to the cup of sugar is use for beers?

Cup of sugar in 5 gallons shouldn't cause bottle bombs, the whole reason you would want to pasteurize is because you added much more without stabilizing. Otherwise you don't even need to store it in the fridge.
 
Third batch of pasteurizing bottles. Had my first one explode in the pot but these bottles went a day too long and were gushing. Had to bleed out the excess bubbles. Lost a bit more cider than I'd have liked (almost half way down the neck ). Was hoping to bottle condition until Christmas. Okay to still do so after having to bleed them? Great amount of carbonation otherwise...
 
I got up to page 16 before I came back here.

My question is about Pectic Enzyme… I see people using it with store bought juice/cider. Is this necessary? I though it was only necessary if you were working with non-pasturized juice.
 
I got up to page 16 before I came back here.

My question is about Pectic Enzyme… I see people using it with store bought juice/cider. Is this necessary? I though it was only necessary if you were working with non-pasturized juice.

Pectic enzyme is used to help break down the pulp in cloudy cider to aid in clarity.
 
I've received a few messages asking for more info on the stove top pasteurizing method that I've adopted, so thought I would put up this quick tutorial with pics.

Hey Pappers quick question?

If I used the swing tops will the heat melt the rubber caps?

thnx

SW
 
I've received a few messages asking for more info on the stove top pasteurizing method that I've adopted, so thought I would put up this quick tutorial with pics.

Hey Pappers quick question?

If I used the swing tops will the heat melt the rubber caps?

thnx

SW
 
Pectic enzyme is used to help break down the pulp in cloudy cider to aid in clarity.

Thank.. thought so. So, the question now arises.. My first batch is just finishing in primary.. and it's cloudy. In brewing beer, when my beer looks like that, I usually use gelatin to fine the beer during bottling or kegging.

So, with cider.. can I do that.. or alternatively, can I add pectic to the cider in secondary.. or does that happen during the primary? I don't mind cloudy cider.. but, clear would be a bonus.:rockin:
 
I've never used pectic enzyme post-fermentation, so can't speak from experience, but have read that the time to add it is pre-fermentation. I'm sure it wouldn't harm the cider if you add it post-fermentation.
 
I've received a few messages asking for more info on the stove top pasteurizing method that I've adopted, so thought I would put up this quick tutorial with pics.

Hey Pappers quick question?

If I used the swing tops will the heat melt the rubber caps?

thnx

SW

I let the water get to the liquid level of the bottles, never completely submersing them. I have not had any problems yet....but I could see it at least increasing the rate of deterioration. Just keep an eye on them, they are cheap and easy to replace if they look like they aren't making a good seal.
 
I have cider in secondary at 0.995 (very dry) with EC-1118 yeast. I plan to backsweeten with fresh apple juice then bottle and allow to carbonate. Will the water bath method of pasturizing bottles at 190 deg for 10 min. be sufficient to halt fermentation of the EC-1118 yeast, or will more time be required.
 
Haven't used that yeast so can't say from experience. FYI, I've been pasteurizing with 180F water these days, rather than 190, and haven't had any issues.
 
Would it possible to pasturize in the oven at 190 degrees? I could fit more bottles in at one time.
 
Pappers, I guess this works for you due to the bottles you use. I had a really bad experience using this method to heat pasturize the 5 Day Country Cider recipe. I had 1 bottle explode in each of the first 2 batches. The 3rd batch, all bottles made it. The 4th batch, I had 6 of 7 blow up. With my nerves shot, I stopped the process and refridgerated the rest, and invited friends to come enjoy this evening. I used recycled commercial bottles. I used a canning pot and a quick read thermometer. When the water was 190, I gave it a quick stir, moved the pot to a large hot pad, double checked the temp., then added the bottles with about 2 inches of the top sticking out of the water, and put the lid on. I sure am glad I did not use the dishwasher to try this! I'm still finding tiny pieces of glass throughout the kitchen.
 
A couple things that might help...

1) Pappers lowered his recommended temp to 180 degrees in some more recent posts in this thread

2) The bottom of your pot could be considerably hotter than the water temp, especially if it has a thick bottom. Try to put something between the bottles and the bottom of the pot. Maybe a washcloth or some sort of wire rack on the bottom of the pot. Probably should remove the washcloth before re-heating the water.

Craig
 
Going to see if 24 hours is too long in the bottles for EC-1118 to Carbonate :S

Working with beer, I usually get "gushers" if the bottle is warm, which then carbonate perfectly when chilled. It appears this is NOT the case with Cider
 
so I tried the sweet cider this time. The bottles were very slow to carb. Several weeks, then they took off. Overcarbed overnight. Had to explosions last night, one in the water and one after. Never know if its just the two weak bottles. Gotta do 36 more bottles today. Afraid of filling the dishwasher with glass so back to the stovetop.
 
Just did twelve of these right now. Heads up for anyone, open bottles every day after 5 days and see how it works out. I opened today and they were gushing slightly. One has popped, underwater while grabbing it with tongs. Make sure you pastuerize before it gushes.
 
Not the stove top method, but I tried out the dishwasher method, worked great for me 2 times so far. I bought a meat thermometer with a long probe, filled a 22oz bottle with water, corked it, stabbed the thermometer thru the cork, normal wash only got the bottle up to about 128, but heated wash hit 148 for about an hour, which is twice the length required for pasteurization. Tested 6 bottles with no carbonation, 2 weeks later still no carbonation, have since done two 50ish bottle batches on the bottom rack. Had a test soda bottle to get the carbonation where I wanted, then dishwasher time. No leaks, not explosions, just tasty carbonated cider.
 
As a follow up to my last post #919, I used the same recipe and let the bottles carbonate for only 14 hours (last batch was 2 days to carb). Results are awesome. No broken bottles through an entire 5 gallon batch. And I must say, the bottles that survived my first batch came out like champagne. Thus the issue with bottle bombs as everyone else mentioned. Too much carbonation. Thanks for your process posting Pappers!
 
When using this process.. say I bring my water up to 170* with the bottles in the kettle.. keep it in there for, say, 15 minutes. Do you let the water cool back down before removing the bottles?

Probably more important.. when you want to start the 2nd batch..

a. Do you just put them in the hot water.. whatever it came down to between batches?
or
b. Do you let the water really cool off, put the bottles in and bring back up to temp for a period?

Guess the main concern is about bottle shock.
 
Well.. No answer.. guess I'm a bit impatient?

Here is what I found.. and it's important.

I put my first 5 liter flip tops into the kettle with warm water and heated to 170* for 15 minutes.. let it cool for a bit. During that time I started smelling the apple cider. But, it all worked. The two bombers I had in the batch had caps that swelled back to shape.. (they were indented) When I pulled the bottles and put them on a towel in the counter.. what did I see.. the liquid in the bottles had expanded to the very top of the bottle.. So much for filling the bottles the same as filling beer bottles The take away is.. Leave a LOT MORE headspace in the bottles.

I put the remaining 5 flip tops into the boiler which was down to 150 and turned on the heat.. I let it settle this tie at 155* for 20 minutes.. POP.. I haven't opened the kettle yet.. but I think one of the bottles split.. I'll find out in about 10 minutes.. BUT.. THEN… BAM.. the top blew off the top of the kettle.. blew hot cider around the stove area. Fortunately, there was a lid on the bucket. I'm sure the expansion is what caused these bottles to go.. as they are very heavy duty bottles.. not near as thin as a regular capable beer bottle.

Hope this saves someone from the same troubles. MORE HEADSPACE IN THE BOTTLES THAN NORMAL.
 

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